Starting Engines

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KJ

KJ

El Capitan
Joined
Dec 2, 2010
Messages
907
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Avalon
Vessel Make
Chung Hwa 46 LRC
If you leave your boat in the water for the winter, but don’t use it until the spring, how often do you start your engines and how long do you let them run? KJ
 
KJ said:
If you leave your boat in the water for the winter, but don’t use it until the spring, how often do you start your engines and how long do you let them run? KJ
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My boat gets parked in October and the engines are winterized.

I'll go back to ther boat in March and dewinterize it, starting the engines then.
 
During periods of non-use I like to crank the engine twice for two 10 second periods every 30 days. Distributes lube oil, exercises rings and oil seals.
 
Ken
there is a train of thought ...if you are not actually gone run your motors under load don't start them
 
I don't have that problem but this has been discussed here and on boatdiesel.com.

From the postings I've read from those in the know, a diesel engine needs to be operated until it reaches normal operating temp. It may be necessary on some engines to put a load on the engine by placing it it gear and running it at or near idle to achieve normal operating temp.

Frequency? The more the better.
 
KJ said:
If you leave your boat in the water for the winter, but don’t use it until the spring, how often do you start your engines and how long do you let them run? KJ
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Couple of items...

How LONG do you consider winter??? For some boaters it's Dec-Mar...for others it could be Sept-May or June.

If its 4-5 months and my boats in the water and I'm going to run the engines...I'm going for a ride.

But if not...I would put the boat in gear, bring it up to say 1200-1500 rpm and let her warm up to operating temp...if need be...put her in reverse at a higher rpm (props usually les efficient so the strain on lines/dock is less)...

If you really don't feel like all that...winterize the engine and let her sit 4-5 months...most do with no real harm....if you want to get fancy...some recommend turning the engine by hand and spraying fogging oil in the air intake or injector holes.
 
I've often heard that same thing about diesels....don't start 'em unless you're going to run them under load to bring up the operating temps. I'm not a mekanik but I understand that the rings don't get hot enough to expand and that lets oil pass by the rings, and that ain't good for 'em.

I make sure we use our boat at least once a month through the winter. We always do the lighted boat parade that's usually the 2nd weekend of Dec, then our annual New Year's Day trip, and then another trip or three before things start to warm up.
 
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I run them year around. In the coldest months I take her for a ride once every two, three weeks max. If weather prohibits the joy ride, I bring the engines to operating temp for 30 minutes, 1000 rpm's, with transmissions in gear at the dock.
 
how often do you start your engines and how long do you let them run? KJ
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NEVER , I follow Da Book and winterize the engine.

It is claimed that yacht engines dont wear out from use , they are KILLED.

Cold starts , ideling with no load , is an excellent way to measurably shorten engine life.
 
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I work with diesel driven fire pumps. These diesel engines are a lot like in boats and are needed in an emergency and set most of their life, and live a long time. Take a note from the code requirements; "Start them once a week and run them for no less than 30 minutes to attain normal operating temperature." This would be at churn with a very light load.
 
It depends if it’s a 2 stroke or a 4 stroke. If a 2 stroke the engine should be turned started as one or more cylinders is open, so the cylinder positions should be changed. Both our gen set and the 671 are two stroke and I start them every 60 days, and run for a couple of minutes to move the engine parts/fluid and refresh coat of oil. As to how frequent or long is a depends. If you can not get the engine up to temp under load is not recommended for long period of time, but turning running the engine for a short period of time is recomended. I mainly start the engines every 60 days for peace of mind to know if they had to be start that they would start. :thumb:

A four stroke may not be a critical as the cylinders of closed, but starting the engine to move the fluids and parts for a short period of time I feel is more beneficial than let it sit. Again more for peace of mind that they will start if needed:thumb:

Actaully I don't think there is a actual true answer as it depends. :flowers:
 
Phil Fill said:
A four stroke may not be a critical as the cylinders of closed,
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?? A four stroke has valves PF, they open the cylinder to the atmosphere one way or the other.
 
If you start an engine and "bring it up to operating temp" you'll need to put a 50% load or more on it for five or ten minutes and you probably won't be doing that at the "dock" unless you're interested in seeing how strong your cleats are.
 
I run mine every couple of weeks at a minimum and at about 1000 RPM I can get them up to temp in about a half hour against the cleats.
 
I USE my boat at least once every two weeks....and usually(hopefully) more than that.
 
SomeSailor said:
I run mine every couple of weeks at a minimum and at about 1000 RPM I can get them up to temp in about a half hour against the cleats.
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Agree...I get my single up to 180 degrees or so (about the same as my slow cruise) in about 10 minutes at 12-1400 rpm with no threat to any cleats or dock...the higher rpm is usually in reverse so it's way less pressure on the dock.

If I can I try to also use the pretty good tidal action here (up to 3 knots) to help sometimes.

Not sure why some of us always seem to be able to do the impossible for others :D
 
psneeld said:
Agree...I get my single up to 180 degrees or so (about the same as my slow cruise) in about 10 minutes at 12-1400 rpm with no threat to any cleats or dock...the higher rpm is usually in reverse so it's way less pressure on the dock.
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Reverse at high RPMs is also a good test of your shaft coupling shear pins and set screws. If you pull your shaft from the coupling its best to do it at the dock.:D
 
The engine manual says the JD 4045 should be operated for a while at operating temperature at least once a week. I typically take the boat out about three times a month and operate the engine for 2 to 4 hours at a time. If I wouldn't be operating the boat for an extended time, I'd winterize ("hibernate") the engine and leave it otherwise alone.
 
motion30 said:
You are not comming south this winter ?
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Michael,
No, not this winter. I might drive down to the Keys for some diving if I get cabin fever.

I do plan on heading south next fall/winter (2014). I’d like to leave here around the middle of Oct. I want to spend a week or so on the hook at Cumberland Island. We really enjoyed our visit there last May, but could only stay for two days. When we get to Lake Worth we’ll start looking for a window. As soon as a good one opens, we’ll make the jump over to the Bahamas and spend the rest of the winter there. If nothing opens up right away, we’ll just keep heading south and hang out in Marathon to wait it out.

Hope to see you down there again.

What are your plans? KJ

1429-albums131-picture854.jpg


Avalon & Bay Shack at Key West
 
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obthomas said:
Reverse at high RPMs is also a good test of your shaft coupling shear pins and set screws. If you pull your shaft from the coupling its best to do it at the dock.:D
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When I surveyed mine, I noticed stainless clamps on each shaft. A foot or so forward of each seal. When I was looking at them, the surveyor said that was good trick to keep your shaft in the boat if you sheared one. The drag can pull them backwards and out of the boat otherwise. :)
 
SomeSailor said:
When I surveyed mine, I noticed stainless clamps on each shaft. A foot or so forward of each seal. When I was looking at them, the surveyor said that was good trick to keep your shaft in the boat if you sheared one. The drag can pull them backwards and out of the boat otherwise. :)
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That's why I keep my spare anodes there.
 
Poker,
Mine won't start anyway w/o the glow plugs but wish I had a compression release.

Everybody seems to think an engine is at operating temperature if the coolant is up. NOT SO. Basic parts like pistons and valves are still relatively cool. That's the core of the issue w under loading. Idling at the float in or out of gear dosn't mean you have a significant load. My Mitsu warms up to 185 degrees coolant temp in just a few minutes in neutral. Running at a 50% load will probably do the trick but that's far cooler than a 75% load. And I'm not talking 50 & 75% of throttle or rpm either. 50% load is at whatever rpm your engine burns half of it's maximum fuel consumption at WOT.

If it's too inconvenient to do that I just crank the engine a bit. And it is inconvenient as I'm blocked on the hard.
 
No problem using boats all year here so it doesn`t arise for Aussies.
But its a good point. What is the maintenance practice for back up generators, like at hospitals, which have to be kept ready to produce amps instantly?
 
manyboats said:
Poker,
Mine won't start anyway w/o the glow plugs but wish I had a compression release.

Everybody seems to think an engine is at operating temperature if the coolant is up. NOT SO. Basic parts like pistons and valves are still relatively cool. That's the core of the issue w under loading. Idling at the float in or out of gear dosn't mean you have a significant load. My Mitsu warms up to 185 degrees coolant temp in just a few minutes in neutral. Running at a 50% load will probably do the trick but that's far cooler than a 75% load. And I'm not talking 50 & 75% of throttle or rpm either. 50% load is at whatever rpm your engine burns half of it's maximum fuel consumption at WOT.
QUOTE]

I totally agree with all of these points but many on this forum do not, according to posts on similar threads.
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Funny ....NONE of the manufacturer manuals I have read give a rat's rear end about anything but coolant temp...and they don't care if the engine is stone cold except don't go to full power until warmed up...which some of us NEVER do...some of us never get over 50% power...

If it's a big deal to you and you don't get that most people have engines that keep going despite these crazy worries...use an IR temp gun and shoot the oil line temps...

Can't believe the gross misrepresentation some keep proliferating....
 
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I don't see any "Gross misrepresentation" just a couple of guys describing their own practices and beliefs.
 
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