Connecting sanitation hoses

I installed a ball valve at the bottom of the tank before the macerator. It has a latch for a padlock. Two heads, no y-valves, just dump from the tank. We will be in Florida for several years. Maybe a three or four day anchorage along the way. Plus we have one operational Raritan with many spare parts. Also a locking through hull. I know people go years without getting inspected. I'm sure they will visit me as soon as I reach Mobile Bay.

Boy do I feel lucky not needing to deal with the chit nazi's..

I have never had anyone ever ask after we were North of California.

The Pacific Northwest must be a great place... no crap cops and beautiful views!

HOLLYWOOD

Just noodle over to Juan De Fuca Strait and fire away - it will mix with the poop from Victoria and nobody will notice! J.DF. Strait is paved with corn.

Our method has survived both CN and FL inspections.

The holding tank is connected directly to a Y at the deck pump out fitting.

A Y not a Y valve , the other side of the Y is connected to the overboard pump.

With the deck cap OUT ,and in a drawer , waste pumping is impossible .

Should the pump be unhappy to prime after long non use , simply pouring sea water into the deck fitting wets and primes the pump, so with the cap installed it works.

No valves . no hassles , KISS!

FF said:

...The holding tank is connected directly to a Y at the deck pump out fitting...No valves . no hassles , KISS!

Click to expand...

Re-doing my aft head, I'm thinking along those same lines. Mine will be a "T" not a "Y" though.

I'm thinking of mounting the macerator on top of the tank, and using solid PVC pipe up to the T from the bottom fitting of the tank. At that point flexible hose will go up to the deck pump-out from one side of the T and over to the macerator from the other. The PVC will be permanent; I'll never have to replace anything below the "waterline" of the contents of the tank.

I don't think I get this, Fred. You go around all the time with the cap off of your deck cap out of your pump out fitting?

It is seldom possible to make a loose hose seal on an undersized barb by cranking down on the hose-clamp. Filling the gap with goop rarely works and you often live to regret it.

If all else fails, it is possible to increase the diameter of a hose barb using epoxy-soaked fiberglass tape like a bandage. Make sure the barb is squeaky clean, pull the tape firmly and paint on the epoxy as you wrap. Sand high spots/hairs when dry and paint on a final coat of epoxy to give a smooth finish. Tedious - yes, but it works and you know its a good solid job that you can take apart later without trouble.

"If all else fails, it is possible to increase the diameter of a hose barb using epoxy-soaked fiberglass tape like a bandage."

Nice! I'll add that to my bag of tricks.

I've tried various adhesive tapes. It's hard to get the hose on over the tape without pulling the tape out of place. Not a good solution.

I wonder if self amalgamating (spelling?) tape could be used the same way as the epoxy/fiberglass?

CaptTom said:

Re-doing my aft head, I'm thinking along those same lines. Mine will be a "T" not a "Y" though.

I'm thinking of mounting the macerator on top of the tank, and using solid PVC pipe up to the T from the bottom fitting of the tank. At that point flexible hose will go up to the deck pump-out from one side of the T and over to the macerator from the other. The PVC will be permanent; I'll never have to replace anything below the "waterline" of the contents of the tank.

Click to expand...

I have, on several boats, eliminated the need for a macerator pump by using a "Y" valve. Port one connected to a thruhull with an aft facing scoop over it. Port two connected to the head. Port three connected to the lower tapping on the holding tank. If the "Y" valve has a stop on it (stopping the handle from going completely around) it needs to be filed off. Then the valve has three positions: 1 head to thruhull. 2 head to tank. 3 Tank to thruhull. The forward motion of the boat will empty the tank. This will even work on a sailboat if the tank is above the W/L. The dockside pumpout can be connected to a second lower tapping on the tank. I have a drawing but it won't load.

I don't think I get this, Fred. You go around all the time with the cap off of your deck cap out of your pump out fitting?

Click to expand...

Sure! no smell and I dont fall into a 1 1/2 deck fitting .

If a few drops of rain get in , it doesnt change the pump out time a bit.

A second cap drilled could be installed , but we dont visit Sewanaka YC or Ida Lewis YC very often.

Brooksie said:

I have, on several boats, eliminated the need for a macerator pump by using a "Y" valve.

Click to expand...

I've never found a poop Y valve that doesn't leak, a manual head generates enough pressure to allow some leakage and now that I've gone electric to make the Admiral happy I am sure it would leak even more...

Any recommendations?

My Connie has three heads and they are all very low elevation. Fortunately they are crowns with macerator s. I did not want to buy a y for each one so I a
Have a single ball valve at the bottom of the tank then a macerator pump to through hull.

I know I'm late on this thread…
I had the same problem as everyone else fitting sanitary lines. I tried all the same things mentioned here. Finally, while at WM I asked and they sold me this stuff:
WEST MARINE Hoselube at West Marine

When I used it the hose slipped on without any effort. Now, I keep a bottle on the boat at all times. Works great with the heavy duty ribbed bilge pump lines too!

I've never found a poop Y valve that doesn't leak, a manual head generates enough pressure to allow some leakage and now that I've gone electric to make the Admiral happy I am sure it would leak even more...

Any recommendations?

HAYWARD 3 way true union valve.

Rekindle said:

I know I'm late on this thread…
I had the same problem as everyone else fitting sanitary lines. I tried all the same things mentioned here. Finally, while at WM I asked and they sold me this stuff:
WEST MARINE Hoselube at West Marine

When I used it the hose slipped on without any effort. Now, I keep a bottle on the boat at all times. Works great with the heavy duty ribbed bilge pump lines too!

Click to expand...

You can get the same stuff at an auto parts store. "Radiator Hose Grease". I've been using it for years.

Hoses should never have to have any sealant to prevent leaks. You either have mismatched hoses and fittings or you're doing it wrong.