Connecting sanitation hoses

I am trying to install a new holding tank and lines. Fortunately I filed the tank with fresh water first to check for leaks and boy did I have them. A dock mate suggested I heat the hoses up with a heat gun. I did, it slowed the leaks down a little yet still leaked. Anybody have any suggestions?:banghead

Please give us some details on the tank, hoses and hose clamps you are using.

On a holding tank these are usually 1 - 1/2 " from the toilet to the holding tank, and then 1 -1/2" from the holding tank to the macerator. Since you may be in Lake Michigan you may not have a macerator.

If the hose bard on the holding tank is for 1-1/2" hose and you used 1-1/2" hose then there should be a tight fit. The hose clamps should have sealed them.

If you have 1 -1/2" barbs (check the holding tank instructions) and 1/1/2 " hose and still have leaks then you may not have tightened the hose clamps enough. In that case use a socket wrench rather than a screw driver.

Let us know what you did.

Marty

Hello Marty, I have a '86 Connie that was built with 3 raritan s. I bought the bought in Nashville and am taking down to the gulf. The shields 1-1/2" hose slides easily over the barbed 1-1/2" fittings. I heated them with a heat gun first but only was able to reach them with a ratcheting screwdriver with a socket. I will try again tomorrow to get a small ratchet on them and double clamp. I only want to use Teflon tape or silicon as a last resort.

Patrick

This is a long shot, but measure the diameter of one of the hose barbs. 1-1/2" sanitation hose doesn't usually slide easily over a hose barb. I am wondering whether you have 1-1/4" hose barbs or 1 7/8" hose.

The normal situation in using a heat gun is to loosen the hose so that it will slide on or off the hose bard not to tighten the hose down.

Let us know what you find.

Marty

No kidding, when I replaced mine I needed a lot of heat and I'm sure some dielectric grease to get the hose to slip on. You have a mis-match somewhere. Vicks on your upper lip helps. As soon as you pull the hose off, stuff a plastic bag or paper towel down the hose to keep the evil contained. Use plenty of rubber gloves and wash yourself lots after the job is done. Cut the replacement hose before you pull off the old one so you have a replacement immediately handy, use tilex or similar to spray the places you spilled on (you will). Have giant Gladbags ready to stuff the old hoses in. Don't be surprised if nobody will get close to you for a few days!

Except for working inside a tank, worst job on a boat, bar none.

shields 1-1/2" hose slides easily over the barbed 1-1/2" fittings.

Replace the fittings .

believe it or not there are 2 different patterns , diameters for 1 1/2 hose.

The usual hassle is it is a huge fight to get the new hose ON the fitting , and there sticking the hose end in a pot of boiling water does work.

Boat stuff and home and garden stuff is different , Tractor Supply may not work aboard.

Well unfortunately I think FF hit the nail on the head. I did buy my fittings at tractor supply. This is not good.

I have used a dab of 5200 around the fittings in the past to stop leaks. Let it cure a couple days before you test it.

Also a swabbing of KY Jelly works wonders on getting the hose on the fitting, doesn't attack the hose as do petro chem lubricants..

I like having items aboard that have multiple uses...

HOLLYWOOD

I agree with FF. It shouldn't be easy to get the hose on the fittings.

Do yourself a favor and get Trident 101 hose. It is much easier to work with and impermeable to sewage. Use KY for lube and double clamp all fittings. It is much nicer to work with and if you need to shorten a hose run you can get the hose off the fitting without using dynamite. Trident 101 is black with a green stripe. Use a sawzall to cut it and use side cutters to cut the SS reinforcing wire inside. You will still need to have the right sized hose barbs for any sewage hose to work. I installed the hose five years ago and the admiral is still happy

Sanitation hoses

I did new sanitation hoses along with a new fresh water tank last year.

I used hot water and a heat gun to get the hose over the fittings. Dish washing soap, K-Y, or silicone grease all help. It was a struggle even with lubrication and heat. Double the clamps on every fitting. Use new clamps. This is no place to save money.

mycows said:

Do yourself a favor and get Trident 101 hose. It is much easier to work with and impermeable to sewage. Use KY for lube and double clamp all fittings. It is much nicer to work with and if you need to shorten a hose run you can get the hose off the fitting without using dynamite. Trident 101 is black with a green stripe. Use a sawzall to cut it and use side cutters to cut the SS reinforcing wire inside. You will still need to have the right sized hose barbs for any sewage hose to work. I installed the hose five years ago and the admiral is still happy

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Last month we replaced all the hose with Trident 102 (the white version). Easy to work with. Using KY, we didn't need a heat gun and when we were done, no leaks with the VacuFlush system. We bought a 50' roll, on line, for $335 delivered and used 42'.

NEVER use 5200 on a poop hose! Even the best hoses will permeate eventually and you will need to destroy everything to get the old hoses out. Huge mistake.

If a nose ever falls off Mt. Rushmore, it will be put back with 5200.

Well all is sealed tight, two clamps. Used a small wrench. All that's left is to wire a switch for the overboard macerator. I want to be in compliance once I hit Mobile Bay.

Also I will switch to trident hose or whatever is newer and better by the time I have to change it.

Xsbank said:

NEVER use 5200 on a poop hose! Even the best hoses will permeate eventually and you will need to destroy everything to get the old hoses out. Huge mistake.

If a nose ever falls off Mt. Rushmore, it will be put back with 5200.

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depends on what you are using it on...cheap plastic fitting...who cares????

metal fittng...use some heat

last resort there is a 5200 release agent.

5200 isn't the devil's potion if you know how t deal with it...

I am up against this job in the near future too. I plan on trying to swap out some, if not most, with hard PVC hose. I'm not sure my hoses are downhill the whole way... So I will correct that too.

I read a good tip on this board a few months ago that said to wear several rubber gloves when disassembling the hoses with rubber bands around your wrist. Pull off a hose, stop it up with your hands, the pull a glove and rubber band over it to seal in the smell.

Get yourself some inexpensive wooden plugs; the kind that you would hammer into a thru hull in an emergency. They are readily available at Worst Marine (pun intended). The night before installation, heat the hose ends some then hammer in a wooden plug to expand the end of the hose. Let it sit overnight. The next day remove the plug, use a little KY and the hose should slip on fairly easily.

Miss Donna, When you install the switch for the macerator pump, use a key switch like a starter switch. Control access to the key (put it on your key ring) and you won't have to lock your seacock.

I learned that trick from Peggie Hall.

If you need to enlarge or heat up the hose to get it onto a barbed fitting, another option is using a tailpipe or expander.

HD Small Pipe Expander 1-1/8" to 1-3/4" Muffler/Exhaust Reshape Tool Repair Shop Enlarger - Amazon.com

psneeld said:

depends on what you are using it on...cheap plastic fitting...who cares????

metal fittng...use some heat

last resort there is a 5200 release agent.

5200 isn't the devil's potion if you know how t deal with it...

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Yes once I learned a few tricks 5200 is easy to deal with

jleonard said:

Yes once I learned a few tricks 5200 is easy to deal with

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the devil made you do it!!!!

Hop car that is a great idea. I unfortunately already installed a toggle. Don't think I will use this option very often, nice to know its there.
Tom.B. as Hmason stated the use of cork plugs to stretch out a hose, you could also use plugs to stop up your hoses. Fortunately this is a whole new system which I finally got leak free today using water as my test fluid. Could have been so much worse.

Thought I could smell something coming from the boat next door, even has the same name !!!

Larry M said:

If you need to enlarge or heat up the hose to get it onto a barbed fitting, another option is using a tailpipe or expander.

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This sounds like a very good idea!

Anyone use one of these? Under $20 is well worth it if I can avoid several hours of swearing every time I need to fit these 1-1/2" hoses.

I have, I put in boiling water and used a tailpipe expander, it broke the wire in the hose. May have cranked it too hard. They work great on unwired hose. $5.99 at that Chinese tool supply.

Gerald, you dog. Thanks for the help today. Let me school you in SUP tomorrow.

I would look to install a pair of unions before the macerator pump. In some places, even a key lock will not pass the inspection. Lake Champlain for example.

HenryD said:

I would look to install a pair of unions before the macerator pump. In some places, even a key lock will not pass the inspection. Lake Champlain for example.

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I'd be interested in who the LEOs are that don't approve of it. At least several boat makers aren't even installing seacocks that can be secured...just buttons and key locks outside of the head. It's supposed to meet the USCG Comandant's clarification letter of a few years back.