blocking for 34 Californian

I had the yard haul my 34 californian for winter storage on Friday. When I stopped by on Saturday I noticed that they had blocked her differently than in the past and I am not sure I like what they did. In the past they placed three sets of blocking under the (skeg?) keel. One forward, one center and one aft underneath the skeg keel. This year they placed one forward and one center under the skeg keel and the third about 3 feet aft of the skeg keel. The section is very flat where the 3rd blocking is and I am wondering if there is enough structure there. I have attached the best photos I could take with the lighting and cramped quarters in the shed. I am looking for opinions before I see the yard crew on Monday.

If you don't like it, tell them to change it to what you want.

Ours is always blocked with three sets under the keel, just like you said they did before on yours.

I wouldn't be crazy about that either. Are all the blocks like that with a single 2"x4" block crosswise making hull/keel contact? I'm not a structural engineer, but it would seem that pounds per square inch would be rather high if so. When they block mine the three supports are always on the keel and the boat is set on top of an 18" length of 4" x 10" or 6" X 12" blocking, not 2"x4".

By the look of it, that stern blocking probably isn't carrying much weight, it's likely just keeping the boat from tipping back. So much of the weight is on the center block which looks like. . . . a single 2'x4". Yikes!!

I think the aft blocking is good. It's on C/L isn't it? Look inside your boat and see what structure there is. Should be plenty on C/L. But ther'e seems to be lots of space between the center block and the aft. I'd tell them to put blocking in-between those two and take steps to get the load even on the blocking.

Our Californian 34 is blocked front, center, & at the end of the keel/skeg. I'd certainly ask for a wider blocking surface than a 2x4, no matter where the blocking is placed.

Before I had a trailer made up, here is how mine was blocked.

Ours was blocked for maintenance with two keel blocks and one stand on each corner, fore and aft.

I have NEVER seen a boat blocked that way...

Can't say that it's bad...but my gut is saying that is not the place to do it...either the aft part of the keel or the hull sides/transom corners.

How much did that trailer cost you? I would like to build one just like it.

I prefer three sets of blocks under the keel and three pairs of stands along the hull.

I have always used the rule of 8' - 10' on keel blocking. The 34', 38' and 42' Californians are nearly all twin diesels. So depending on engines and gear, running gear is around 4k lbs and fuel/water is another 5000 lbs.

Engines are midship and fuel/water is in the stern. So I place three keel blocks spaced out on the keel. One block under the engines near the engine room aft bulk head, another keel block at the forward engine room bulk head and the third block aft on the keel to support the stern and fuel/water. Plus four to six jackstands which balance the boat on the keel blocks.

Yes, I stand right there while they are blocking and I tell them where I want the blocks before they place them and why. I've never had an arguement.

Duvie:
I don't think you're going to find anything but hull fiberglass under that stern block. Hopefully it's not carrying much load.

Jack stands are only to keep the boat level. Not to provide much support. It's easy to turn the screws and increase the amount of weight the jack stands take but one should resist.

By accident I once wound up w 99% of the weight of the boat (Willy) on one support. It was on a tidal grid and no damage occurred but I was very stressed about it. The keel had some rocker and I assumed it was straight.