Fun day

River Cruiser · Oct 22, 2013

I've gotten more experience working on a head than I ever wanted, hope it's a long while till I get any more. The macerator motor quit, luckily I had a spare motor & pump assembly. I've been contemplating replacing all the waste system plumbing when the project list gets shorter, I don't think it'll ever get short enough for me to want another day like today.

BruceK · Oct 22, 2013

Most people locate them more privately.

I guess it`s the last job we ever want to have to do on the boat.

psneeld · Oct 23, 2013

I was going to toss my old head after the hand pump quit...but I found a common PVC elbow that was a perfect fit for the end where the cleanout plug was....so I did a vertical drop to another 90 that went right into a cheapo macerator screwed to the base (underneath upside down). I also had a length of 1" hose that I feed to the holding tank. Added a push button for the macerator. Use a cup of water from the sink to flush (it's the spare head anyway).

Whole project cost around $100 and took a day to piece together after finding that PVC elbow by luck.

RMoore · Nov 9, 2013

I'm installing a replacement holding tank. The output of the tank is on the bottom. I want to put a diverted valve right after the output of the tank so I can direct the sewage to a macerator, then to a thru-hull for direct discharge (when allowed)...or..direct the flow to a deck pump out when in a marina. The question is regarding the height of the diverted valve in relation to the holding tank outlet. Would it work if the diverted valve was located at the same height as the top of the holding tank? Or do I rely on gravity and have to locate the diverted valve at the lowest possible location (there's no way to locate the valve lower than the tank). I have heard conflicting opinions. Anybody have thoughts or experiences to share?

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psneeld · Nov 10, 2013

RMoore said:
I'm installing a replacement holding tank. The output of the tank is on the bottom. I want to put a diverted valve right after the output of the tank so I can direct the sewage to a macerator, then to a thru-hull for direct discharge (when allowed)...or..direct the flow to a deck pump out when in a marina. The question is regarding the height of the diverted valve in relation to the holding tank outlet. Would it work if the diverted valve was located at the same height as the top of the holding tank? Or do I rely on gravity and have to locate the diverted valve at the lowest possible location (there's no way to locate the valve lower than the tank). I have heard conflicting opinions. Anybody have thoughts or experiences to share?

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I think it matters less where the valve is...but you want a deep loop down in the hose leaving the tank so the macerator can empty better without sucking air.

I believe many have done this install without a "y" valve...they just use a "T" . ...

CaptTom · Nov 10, 2013

RMoore said:
Would it work if the diverted valve was located at the same height as the top of the holding tank? Or do I rely on gravity and have to locate the diverted valve at the lowest possible location.

Here's a fact that will inform my own holding tank re-design: My previous boat came from the factory with the macerator mounted on the top of the tank, with a "T" off the hose that went to the deck fitting. No "Y" valve. This arrangement worked great for 10 years, pumping overboard when off shore and using pump-out facilities dockside.

I like this arrangement because it minimizes the number of fittings below the "waterline" of the holding tank. Murphy's law dictates that any failures in the waste plumbing will invariably occur when the tank is full. It's bad enough working on those hoses when empty.

FF · Nov 11, 2013

No Y or thru hull is needed if you like KISS.

Simply use a fitting and hose in the deck fitting when the waste is pumped overboard.

Loads easier to pass inspection from the Fed Marine Poop Police too.

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River Cruiser

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BruceK

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psneeld

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RMoore

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psneeld

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CaptTom

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FF

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