Help! I've bled air somewhere FL-135

(Bob--see PM)

Hmmmmm. That is weird. I would have thought to replace the two filters with a SINGLE spin-on.

Bob
You may want to call Mike Loisel at Carter Chambers, (225) 677-8811, and tell him you want the adapter kits for the CAV fuel filters. As I recall, they stock it and could offer some savings.

not to be a jerk...well maybe a little...

why nt just can those goofy filters and go with a Racor 500 or 120 spin on????

I think I'm sorry now I cheaped out and went the Racor 120 route instead of a 500 just so I would have the same stock of filter types...accessible just abut anywhere...

I guess I did because if you keep clean fuel and change primaries a lot...your secondary engine mounted should only need changing every couple of years....even if you choose to do it more often.

Folks that wish to do an actual upgrade should take a look at a modern truck filter.

These allow the filter state to ne evaluated at a glance , as the filter is upside down compared to an ancient filter.

The higher the fuel is in the bowl , the more plugged the filter.

After a filter change a threaded plug is removed from the TOP of the filter and fuel is added. Fast and painless .

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Diesel Fuel Processors

The Fuel Pro/Diesel Pro product lines include DAVCO's patented "Seeing is Believing" Technology.
Models include the Fuel Pro 382, 482 and 483, Diesel Pro 243, Biodiesel engine filtration system Fuel Pro 384, Sea Pro and Industrial Pro. These products save labor hours and the associated costs. By looking through the clear cover for fuel contaminants and filter condition, operators and maintenance personnel can see when to replace the fuel filter element. These products all feature superb water separation and have various heating options to enhance cold weather operation.
More information about Diesel Fuel filtration products
Product Documents can be found here

Daughter informs me that my spin-on fuel filter conversions arrived in Raleigh last night. Bringing them today I hope if her 19-yo attention span permits it.

Now I've got to find the right filters to mate to them in Wilmington (NC). anyone know a good marine hardware place in town that is not Worst Marine?

Ben said:

Daughter informs me that my spin-on fuel filter conversions arrived in Raleigh last night. Bringing them today I hope if her 19-yo attention span permits it.

Now I've got to find the right filters to mate to them in Wilmington (NC). anyone know a good marine hardware place in town that is not Worst Marine?

Click to expand...

If talking West Marine right off the road that goes over to Wrightsville Beach..there's a good hardware store with lot's of marine related stuff in it across the side street from the Grocery store that's in that shopping center.

Not sure about filters though...might want to call around if you have the filter numbers to places like advance auto which is up on RT 17 I think towards town.

Ben, you should go find the Baldwin's for that rig. Roy's Marine in Grantsboro stocks them all. And while it won't help you today, you would be well served to seek them out or "run up" and get a pair.

As a point of advice, there are a TON of heavy equipment repair places in and around Wilmington. Give a few a call and find one with lots of parts in stock. They will certainly have diesel secondary filters. Take your spin-on rig too so you can make sure you have the right diameter and thread pitch.

Wilmington Heavy equipment | Heavy equipment in Wilmington, NC - YP.com

Let us know what you find.

Balwin Dealers in Wilmington, NC:

Distributor Search Results 28451

MOTION INDUSTRIES 3822 US HWY 421 STE 120 WILMINGTON NC 28401 910-343-1311
FLEETPRIDE-188 3234 US 421 NORTH WILMINGTON NC 28401 910-762-8761
W W GRAINGER INC 505 COVIL AVE WILMINGTON NC 28403 910-762-3088
STONE TRUCK PARTS 716 NORTH NORWOOD ST WALLACE NC 28466 910-498-8460
TRUCKPRO - FAYETTEVILLE 357 DUNN ROAD FAYETTEVILLE NC 28312 910-483-5107
MOTION INDUSTRIES 1903 GODWIN AVE LUMBERTON NC 28359 910-738-4221
W W GRAINGER INC 712 SEABOARD ST MYRTLE BEACH SC 29577 843-626-8093
CCT INC 100 SANFORD ST ST PAULS NC 28384 910-865-3002
W W GRAINGER INC 2915 GILLESPIE ST FAYETTEVILLE NC 28306 910-868-2376
BUDDY'S TRUCK & TRAILER 407 LAKE CITY HWY JOHNSONVILLE SC 29555 843-386-3736

Tom.B said:

Balwin Dealers in Wilmington, NC:

Distributor Search Results 28451

MOTION INDUSTRIES 3822 US HWY 421 STE 120 WILMINGTON NC 28401 910-343-1311
FLEETPRIDE-188 3234 US 421 NORTH WILMINGTON NC 28401 910-762-8761
W W GRAINGER INC 505 COVIL AVE WILMINGTON NC 28403 910-762-3088
STONE TRUCK PARTS 716 NORTH NORWOOD ST WALLACE NC 28466 910-498-8460

Click to expand...

Tom, you're so helpful - can you run down here and pick me up a few?

Seriously, thanks, I'll look them up. I need a good Wilmington parts outlet.

Thanks again!

psneeld said:

not to be a jerk...well maybe a little...

why nt just can those goofy filters and go with a Racor 500 or 120 spin on????

I think I'm sorry now I cheaped out and went the Racor 120 route instead of a 500 just so I would have the same stock of filter types...accessible just abut anywhere...

I guess I did because if you keep clean fuel and change primaries a lot...your secondary engine mounted should only need changing every couple of years....even if you choose to do it more often.

Click to expand...

What size are you using for your primary filters, 2 microns or 10?
Richard

Wxx3 said:

What size are you using for your primary filters, 2 microns or 10?
Richard

Click to expand...

2 micron....this is the second boat I've done it with and only once has to shutdown for a primary filter change...typical...first rough day in awhile and way down on fuel....

Ben--- Sent you the Baldwin filter number.

psneeld said:

2 micron....this is the second boat I've done it with and only once has to shutdown for a primary filter change...typical...first rough day in awhile and way down on fuel....

Click to expand...

My PO had 10 micron in the primary but 2 micron in the filter inventory. What effects - if any - would I see to go to 2 micron?

Thanks

Ben said:

My PO had 10 micron in the primary but 2 micron in the filter inventory. What effects - if any - would I see to go to 2 micron?

Thanks

Click to expand...

Your secondary filters last forever...so less need to change....but you may get into a situation where the 2 micron primaries are plugging fast and you need to get someplace.

I see the scenario..just never encountered it or know of anyone who did that had the right solution.

If you had a couple huge filters with say 30 micron...then another set of 10's then your secondary engine mounted ones might still be ok if you really stirred up some skank one trip...but usually whether the boat has 30, 10 or 2 micron...when you get into the stirring up crud stage...till you get rid of it...you'll be plugging up filters and shutting engine(s) down until the gunk is cleared.

So my philosophy is based on that I have only once in a career of pleasure and commercial captaining where I had to shut down an engine while transiting to clean crud filled filters. Based on those thousands of hours of running and getting clean fuel...I'm sticking with 2 micron on both primary and secondary filters.

The engine is only burning 2gph so the terrorists that think I'm restricting my engine can forget the doomsday theories....however when I start running outside US well travelled waters...I will upgrade my fuel system dramatically.

Ben said:

My PO had 10 micron in the primary but 2 micron in the filter inventory. What effects - if any - would I see to go to 2 micron?

Thanks

Click to expand...

Uh oh... Here we go again.

Tom.B said:

Uh oh... Here we go again.

Click to expand...

A single data point does not a statistical study make...

psneeld said:

Your secondary filters last forever...so less need to change....but you may get into a situation where the 2 micron primaries are plugging fast and you need to get someplace.

I see the scenario..just never encountered it or know of anyone who did that had the right solution.

If you had a couple huge filters with say 30 micron...then another set of 10's then your secondary engine mounted ones might still be ok if you really stirred up some skank one trip...but usually whether the boat has 30, 10 or 2 micron...when you get into the stirring up crud stage...till you get rid of it...you'll be plugging up filters and shutting engine(s) down until the gunk is cleared.

So my philosophy is based on that I have only once in a career of pleasure and commercial captaining where I had to shut down an engine while transiting to clean crud filled filters. Based on those thousands of hours of running and getting clean fuel...I'm sticking with 2 micron on both primary and secondary filters.

The engine is only burning 2gph so the terrorists that think I'm restricting my engine can forget the doomsday theories....however when I start running outside US well travelled waters...I will upgrade my fuel system dramatically.

Click to expand...

Umm, thanks.

I had bought 2 micron and I had changed the filter after 200 hours, and then I had an engine shutdown after a small number of hours. Then I realized that the PO had 10 micron spares.

I called Bob and Brian and they suggested 10 micron is preferred on primary. So, I am using 10 micron on primary and 2 micron on the engine filters.

Psneeld How often do you change your engine secondaries?
richard

Wxx3 said:

Umm, thanks.

I had bought 2 micron and I had changed the filter after 200 hours, and then I had an engine shutdown after a small number of hours. Then I realized that the PO had 10 micron spares.

I called Bob and Brian and they suggested 10 micron is preferred on primary. So, I am using 10 micron on primary and 2 micron on the engine filters.

Psneeld How often do you change your engine secondaries?
richard

Click to expand...

I'll probably go 2 years, maybe 3 after I see a lot more about my boat. On my sportfish with 3208s I went 2 years but I'm not that familiar with the Lehman yet as far as signs of clogging filters and it's a single...so I'll probably go 2 years which will be about 700-800 hrs on the engine at 2 gal per hr.

Part of it is also what the primary racors look like...If I'm changing those at 150 -200 hours or so and they look clean...then 2 years on the secondary...if really dirty and changing them more then ever year or 500 hours on the secondary.

With new, see through poly and very small fuel tanks...I hope to keep the fuel very clean or at least notice it when it's bad.

Thanks.
I think I will go back to the 2 micron, as to lengthen the engine filter change. Also, I am polishing the fuel.

Going to New Bedford next week to get 600 gals.. Best price around $3.40

Okay, so I am traveling on business, returning Saturday night. Anyone know a diesel-friendly auto parts store where I could pick up the right spin-on filters on a Sunday ?


I've tried one or two, but since its not for a Ford Taurus or toyota Camry, the staff just kind of stares at you. Some real stores open during the week, so that's my back up plan. Just ready to get motor started earliest!

It is painful dealing with the average chain owned auto parts store. I have had the same problem. I give them a Baldwin filter number and they ask me what its for. I tell them Volvo marine diesel and I get a blank stare. They just advise me to visit the Volvo marine place an hours drive away.

I spend two minutes on the internet, looking up a cross reference from Baldwin to the brand they carry, and they have it in stock.

It's worth keeping a record of your filter part numbers, and research the equivalent part number in all the major brands.
All parts stores used to have a complete listing of cross references for part numbers, but for some reason they can't work it out now.

Wix is usually the best number to go in with, Napa and Carquest both base their filter numbers on the Wix number.

Yah,

I might have to phone-order ahead. Usually one is available in a warehouse. I need to visit the closest diesel truck store in town on a week day.

Thanks for the advice.

Spin-Ons. Awesome. So happy. Picture of captain and his happy purring friend.





Spin-On attachments and filters. Dog got fed finally. And had to clean up the mess.

I didn't mind.

Sweet! Does it run??

Forkliftt said:

Sweet! Does it run??

Click to expand...

Like a top. Seems like it runs even a little better.

Took me a couple weeks to get adapters and filters. But blew a whole weekend trying to get standard CAVs to work. With new set up, it started right up and never stalled.

Super-duper happy for you there, Mate! **wipes a gentle tear from his cheek**

Thanks for the video of your running motor. I was kinda proud of you. (That may be too creepy for open forum... sorry)

I really think you should keep the boat down there and keep this trend up. HOWEVER, don't get too cocky about your success. It won't be too many more projects in the future that you get the royal smackdown again, but keep your head up. We are here to help. (or just argue among ourselves while you walk away and figure it out on your own)

Once again... GREAT JOB!

Hey Tom, Thanks. I had a real hard time with the air bubbles, but when I re-installed the spin-on adapter and filters, bled the system, it cranked first time and never looked back. It was soooo good to hear my baby crank up. And even better to hear it stay running strong.

It was valuable working through that and learning. I'm really pretty scared of the engine and screwing something up, but even if you screw something up, you have to fix it anyway or call someone - who fixes it anyway.

How many batteries do you use? 12V or 6V? I need a battery strategy. I also need to rip out a bunch of old wiring. In 2014 there are more modern ways of doing what was done in 1986. I need fresh gauges and wire chases. Bridge gauges are pretty unreliable.

Skinny Dippin' uses 4x6V golf cart batteries. TBH, not really enough and I will add more in the future. Still, it's currently plenty.

As for the wiring. Take it one system at a time and learn where it all goes. Learn what is being used and what is not. When you see a bad connection with electrical tape, wire nuts, or generally failing... fix it or replace it. If it's not in use... pull it out. Over time, you'll have MUCH neater wiring and a MUCH greater understanding of the system overall. That's the most important.