Cat 3208 n.a. coolant leak

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
The question is what is the downside to a leaking exhaust manifold?


The smallest exhaust leak will, over a remarkably short period, paint your engine room - and everything in it - a lovely gray tending toward black color

When you notice that the cloud of black exhaust smoke that has been increasing as the trip progesses seems to be getting really dark and go down in the dark hole to see what might be happening, you see that the intake filter is a bit black too. No problem, change it and life is good except for the nasty footprints and black stains on everything that you touched and sat on.

When the gasket blows out the timeline for the above will be reduced to hours, not days.

Otherwise, no big deal.
 
The smallest exhaust leak will, over a remarkably short period, paint your engine room - and everything in it - a lovely gray tending toward black color

A couple of bucks for muffler cement might be worth the effort to plug the hole , so there is no leak.
 
"A couple of bucks for muffler cement might be worth the effort to plug the hole , so there is no leak."
 

Attachments

  • there-i-fixed-it.jpg
    there-i-fixed-it.jpg
    137.3 KB · Views: 105
I am bringing this thread back because I had to re do the whole thing.

This time it was a blown head gasket.

the issue was not as daunting this time around as I had already done it once.

still lots of wrenching.

The issue was that the last time I replaced the head gaskets. I was given the wrong gasket by the cat dealer. My engine is a 1974 vintage. The new gasket is for a sleeved engine of which I have one cylinder that is sleeved.

With the new and improved head gaskets comes new torque specs and a stronger head bolt.

after draining the coolant I broke the engine down and pulled the heads off. I will post pictures of what happens to an engine when the head gasket lets go. Not a pretty sight.

The overheating came from a leaking red dot heater. I was at idle running the hydraulic davit pulling a set of shrimp pots. I smelled coolant and checked the engine temp. It was pegged. I shut her down and waited about a half hour and started up again. I looked at my dry stack it looked like an old time picture of a steam locomotive.
As I was only about a 1/4 mile from the harbor I idled back in and pulled the oil fill cap there was about a 1/4" of white creamy gunk on the end of the fill cap.

This time I have about 10 hours into the gasket exchange. I started the motor and still had some white smoke. Back in the engine room I discovered a leak in the gasket at the end of the exhaust manifold. I am leaking coolant into the exhaust at the end. I tried tightening the bolts but to no avail. I released the pressure at the heat exchanger and the drip stopped.
I am hoping that was the cause of the white smoke. It was not a billowing cloud just a white smoke that dissipated about 30 ft from the boat.

Question: What is the best way to clear the motor of any residual emulsification. I have heard of using a few quarts of diesel in the oil. I have also heard of using ATF or marvels mystery oil.
Any suggestions short of pulling the entire engine.
(which is not going to happen)

SD
 
Last edited:
Question: What is the best way to clear the motor of any residual emulsification. I have heard of using a few quarts of diesel in the oil. I have also heard of using ATF or marvels mystery oil.

Bummer, sorry to hear that.

Drain all the oil you can. Refill with the cheapest oil you can buy. Replace oil filter(s). Run until warm, drain and refill with more cheap oil and filter.

Install good filter and fill with good oil.

Run engine around the harbor for a while at moderate load then take an oil sample and do a "crackle test" on it to check for moisture. If there is none or very little, run the engine normally for a few hours and take an oil sample to check for sodium and coolant. Hope for the best, it is not the end of the world and is fairly common as disasters go, much more angst than damage usually if you get right on it.
 
Thanks Rick. You solution sounds the best I have heard. You know how it go's everybody has advise.

I wasn't sure I wanted to go with the magic sauce.
she sounds great if the coolant leak is just that gasket at the end of the exhaust manifold. .. I have my fingers crossed on this. If I did something wrong on the head gasket this time. I'm re powering.

The crackle test is fascinating I can't wait to try it. I hadn't heard of that but a quick search on google turned up exact instructions and what to look for.

Fantastic advice thank you sir.

SD
 
Last edited:
Thanks Rick. You solution sounds the best I have heard. .
SD: How about posting a close-up photo of your boat. I think you have one when the boat was on the hard. I remember it as being a really nice (salty) 32 footer?
 
Sure here you go
 

Attachments

  • Mvc-009s.jpg
    Mvc-009s.jpg
    49.6 KB · Views: 100
Thanks, I have a better pic on a different computer I will post that when I get a chance.

Sd
 
Bummer, sorry to hear that.

Drain all the oil you can. Refill with the cheapest oil you can buy. Replace oil filter(s). Run until warm, drain and refill with more cheap oil and filter
.

Oops, left out a couple of steps:

Run engine again to get 2nd dose of cheap oil warm.

Drain cheap oil, dump cheap filter.


Install good filter and fill with good oil.
 
Last edited:
.

Oops, left out a couple of steps:

Run engine again to get 2nd dose of cheap oil warm.

Drain cheap oil, dump cheap filter.

Trying some ATF with the cheap oil may help, I would pull the valve covers & clean them & the valve train, get it all out because it AF in the oil will wipe out the inserts. Good luck
 
The emulsification was mostly on the the valve covers and little in the passages where the rods come through the head. the rocker arms and valve springs were just oil.
I really shouldn't have even started it but I wasn't sure how far I would get. I certainly wasn't thinking about my success. So I didn't bring any oil filters.

I did clean the valve covers and everything else I could get to.

I still need to adjust the valves. So I will clean them all again before the oil changes begin.
I am still concerned about the white smoke and the leaky exhaust manifold end cap.
I won't know until I get back down to the boat.

So where do I find the cheapest oil and filters:)

SD
 
I did manage to make the job a little more easy. I installed a ball valve on the block to make draining the coolant a quick job.

Also a couple of shots of the block and head before installing the new head gasket.
 

Attachments

  • 8 24 13 009.jpg
    8 24 13 009.jpg
    135.8 KB · Views: 85
  • 8 24 13 008.jpg
    8 24 13 008.jpg
    140.2 KB · Views: 88
  • 8 24 13 007.jpg
    8 24 13 007.jpg
    181.4 KB · Views: 106
  • 8 24 13 006.jpg
    8 24 13 006.jpg
    131.7 KB · Views: 78
  • 8 24 13 005.jpg
    8 24 13 005.jpg
    118.6 KB · Views: 79
Last edited:
>I installed a ball valve on the block to make draining the coolant a quick job.<

I would drill a hole in the operating lever for a bit of safety wire ,.
 
Hi SD, if you don't mind my asking, where are you getting all your parts and gaskets for your 3208's. I saw you bought a used exchanger but are the new items, gaskets, pressure senders and such coming from Cat? or aftermarket sources?

Incidentally, thanks for going to all the time and trouble to post your findings, methods and repair progress, as another 3208 owner it is valuable knowledge and deeply appreciated.
 
It is kind of tucked back out of the way but a good idea none the less.
Thanks.

SD
 
Hi SD, if you don't mind my asking, where are you getting all your parts and gaskets for your 3208's. I saw you bought a used exchanger but are the new items, gaskets, pressure senders and such coming from Cat? or aftermarket sources?

Incidentally, thanks for going to all the time and trouble to post your findings, methods and repair progress, as another 3208 owner it is valuable knowledge and deeply appreciated.

It's all just nuts and bolts and a lot of grunting and groaning. The parts are real heavy. The heads are 120 pounds each and I don't think that includes the valve's and springs maybe it does but it sure feels heavier than 120 pounds.


Most parts are coming from Cat.
They have a service that you can join called the parts store. You can look up your own parts and there is also a assembly and disassembly portion of the program that will give you a step by step pictorial of how to do some of this stuff.

It is only for taking it apart and putting it back together and doesn't have everything in great detail. It wil say remove the injectors but not really how to remove the injectors. You can get most of what is needed.

What needs to be done after you get it apart is a different story.


SD
 
Last edited:
Hi SD, if you don't mind my asking, where are you getting all your parts and gaskets for your 3208's. I saw you bought a used exchanger but are the new items, gaskets, pressure senders and such coming from Cat? or aftermarket sources?

Incidentally, thanks for going to all the time and trouble to post your findings, methods and repair progress, as another 3208 owner it is valuable knowledge and deeply appreciated.

This is who I used in Annapolis, MD...good prices, easy to work with...

They also ship easy...when I moved to Jersey I still used them over the local Cat dealer as with shipping still got better prices and they sell aftermarket parts too so ask about them.

Caterpillar Equipment Dealer - Alban Cat
 
Good luck SD, keep us posted. Will check out that Cat Parts Store thing, it sounds intriguing but I wish their parts were more reasonable. I recently paid $120.00 for two 6X8 pieces of foam for my air filters. Ouch!

PS: I don't need Cat to explain how to take it apart and put it back together, I have you for that : )

Psneeld, Thanks for the link, I nosed around their site a bit and will definitely give them a try. I see they also have sources for used/rebuilt parts.
 
Good luck SD, keep us posted. Will check out that Cat Parts Store thing, it sounds intriguing but I wish their parts were more reasonable. I recently paid $120.00 for two 6X8 pieces of foam for my air filters. Ouch!

PS: I don't need Cat to explain how to take it apart and put it back together, I have you for that : )

Psneeld, Thanks for the link, I nosed around their site a bit and will definitely give them a try. I see they also have sources for used/rebuilt parts.

Even though they probably have thousands of customers...the parts department must have geniuses working there because they recognized me or my voice, remembered that I had 3208s, always suggested a cheaper but suitable part (must have been the uniform showing I was a "poor" boater..:D) and were absolutely pleasant and helpful every time...

OK not in love with them...just thoroughly impressed. Actually the Cat dealer around here is somewhat the same as far as personality and service...maybe just not as cheap. When I had an engine rebuilt on a delivery boat at the dealership in Jax, Florida the same great service.

Maybe it's what Cat instills..maybe they just like working with someone who wasn't arrogant or demanding...who knows...but I will never bad mouth Cat parts departments...service and sales may be a different animal.
 
Good luck SD, keep us posted. Will check out that Cat Parts Store thing, it sounds intriguing but I wish their parts were more reasonable. I recently paid $120.00 for two 6X8 pieces of foam for my air filters. Ouch!

I think I had to set up an account with my local Cat dealer to get into the parts store.

The guy's at the parts counter used one that was just about the same.

SD
 
Most 3208 CATs back in the day used Twin Disc labeled as a Caterpillar brand.
 
He said it was a little of both. It would not take the silver solder.

Try a better smarter radiator shop, most use std solder , not silver solder and it usually lasts for decades.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom