CPseudonym
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That is the impression I come away with too Eric. No actual knowledge just an assumption based upon pictures seen. Always thought "gourmet" designated a deluxe trim level not unlike some car models.
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That is the impression I come away with too Eric. No actual knowledge just an assumption based upon pictures seen. Always thought "gourmet" designated a deluxe trim level not unlike some car models.
Codger2
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In a conversation with Harvey Halvorsen, years ago, he told me that the idea for the "Gourmet Cruiser" was sketched out on a napkin in a Hong Kong eatery. Since the main focus of the boat was to create an alternative to the "Picnic Boat" by Hinkley, he thought he'd have some fun with the name (& some one- upmanship ) & "Gourmet Cruiser" was born.
Codger2
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I can't compare the Gourmet cruiser with an IG 32 as I've never been on an IG 32! dwhatty, however, has what I believe is a bristol condition IG 32 and maybe he'll chime in here. (I think he's at sea with the boat at the present time.) All I can say with any degree of certainty is that there are differences in the interior of the two boats as well as the trim on the exterior. Things like recessed fuel & water fills, extra heavy rails and cleats, double chain lockers, folding helm seats, queen size master birth, separate shower,etc. may be shared traits between the 2 boats. I don't know for sure.
I really love my boat but there are differences other than trim between an IG 32 and my boat. For example the IG has a fly bridge , covered back deck, and is, in my opinion, the best 32 foot Euro on the water. If I could still scramble down the ladder from the fly bridge as I did years ago, I'd have an IG 32 Euro.
Please allow me my "bragging rights" as I've spent quite a lot of time in researching the ultimate 32 foot cruiser and with the background in building boats that the Halvorsen family has, I didn't go wrong.
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BruceK
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Eric, I`m not a huge fan of the FB, but we have a good size cockpit with no aft cabin. With one, I would definitely want the FB.
This may be interesting. IGs have quite large s/s trays under the engine(s) for drips of all kinds. One of mine was fairly full, they are a PITA to empty, and you don`t want that stuff in the bilge, thus the trays.
I got a small bilge pump, extended the wiring to reach a battery, added alligator clips,adding a switch at the wiring extension connection. Works well, beats reaching in with a small pan to pour into a larger one, again and again. Following draining the FW cooling system I removed over 20L. into containers emptied onshore, probably clean enough to run a long hose straight over the side.
This may be interesting. IGs have quite large s/s trays under the engine(s) for drips of all kinds. One of mine was fairly full, they are a PITA to empty, and you don`t want that stuff in the bilge, thus the trays.
I got a small bilge pump, extended the wiring to reach a battery, added alligator clips,adding a switch at the wiring extension connection. Works well, beats reaching in with a small pan to pour into a larger one, again and again. Following draining the FW cooling system I removed over 20L. into containers emptied onshore, probably clean enough to run a long hose straight over the side.
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BruceK
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Andy, the spring loaded actuation switch helps,the battery being far away.
Doriana is up for antifouling after 2 good years of Jotun Seaguardian so I got pics you wanted of the underwater modification across the transom. Second pic shows the depth of the addition, cut away either side of the keel. Not having run an IG36 without the mod. I`ve no idea the difference it makes if any, but it looks intended to push the stern up, and bow down.
Perhaps the designers considering Mr.Pilgrim`s designs can take a look.
I seem to get excessive fouling of the running gear,shipwright says it can be caused by cavitation at high speed. IGs don`t do high speed, could it relate to the modification, particularly the gaps beside the keel?
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Andy G
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That's really interesting Bruce.
For those non IG owners here are [STRIKE]two[/STRIKE], three pics of Sarawana laid bare. Doriana & Sarawana are both IG 36's. It's quite a sizable modification, it begs the question of who and why, & does it work?
Next time you are up in Pittwater I will bring Sarawana out and we will do a drive comparison.
A high speed IG road test, with those Lehmans under a full 1600rpm load.(and the devil take the hindmost :lol
Edit: oops, forgot the photo's
For those non IG owners here are [STRIKE]two[/STRIKE], three pics of Sarawana laid bare. Doriana & Sarawana are both IG 36's. It's quite a sizable modification, it begs the question of who and why, & does it work?
Next time you are up in Pittwater I will bring Sarawana out and we will do a drive comparison.
A high speed IG road test, with those Lehmans under a full 1600rpm load.(and the devil take the hindmost :lol
Edit: oops, forgot the photo's
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BruceK
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Lehman powered IG36s racing! That should put RPAYCs Hanse racing fleet to shame.
The shipwright says he has seen this modification on other boats. It`s like a fixed trim tab. I saw trim tabs on a late IG 36 with twin 250hp Volvos, advertised for sale.
We have a large extra water tank in the aft lazarrette, another under the V-berth. Could it be balancing the extra water weight aft?
I`ll alert the design gurus or they`ll never see our obscure thread.
Good news, no blister recurrence after the extensive work 2 years back, when Doriana also had the "dalmatian" look, before the fresh a/f went on.
The shipwright says he has seen this modification on other boats. It`s like a fixed trim tab. I saw trim tabs on a late IG 36 with twin 250hp Volvos, advertised for sale.
We have a large extra water tank in the aft lazarrette, another under the V-berth. Could it be balancing the extra water weight aft?
I`ll alert the design gurus or they`ll never see our obscure thread.
Good news, no blister recurrence after the extensive work 2 years back, when Doriana also had the "dalmatian" look, before the fresh a/f went on.
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Nomad Willy
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Bruce,
Immediate knee jerk reaction is to say "take'em off"
They are a lot of drag. On an airplane when they put the flaps down for landing speeds and lift requirements remember that there's a feeling that the bus driver just hit the brakes? The drag from flaps are very similar to the drag from trim tabs. The idea is that you trade the drag of the tabs for a better angle of attack that reduces over all drag orr/and reduces the wetted surface. Or other advantages like being able to see over the bow.
You probably run your boat 7 or 8 knots and at that speed I think trim tabs fixed (like yours) or otherwise offer no advantage. Just drag.
I've seen many pics of Walt's boat doing 8.5 knots and have always been amazed that she's running level. Are you running tabs Walt? I also see dwhatty's boat running level too.
If the boat was a good balanced design to begin w putting an over sized water tank aft was not a good idea. I'd guess you'd need to go well over 10 knots to balance the boat's extra water and then when you went faster you'd probably be running bow down and your directional stability lacking especially in following seas.
If a boat is designed well and has the correct weight balance/trim the boat should assume a good appropriate trim angle at all speeds (excluding planing craft). So w your big water tank aft you should move other tanks, batteries or other heavy equipment fwd to balance the big tanks.
Somebody went to some trouble putting those wedges on your boat. Try and contact that person and see what you can find out. Perhaps he was in the habbit of running 11 or 12 knots. That would result in a high trim angle and he put the tabs on for that. Unless he went faster they probably just added drag.
Does the boat float on her WL? Where is your heavy equipment compared to other IGs? How fast do you run your boat?
Something that can aid any boat that goes over 6 knots and has a submerged transom is making the transom to bottom edge as sharp as practical. How much aid I don't know but it will help.
There is a remote possibility that Walt's and dwhatty's boats are out of trim and are heavy in the bow. A 32' boat at over 8 knots should be at least a little bit bow high. Just a thought.
Andy,
Hopefully your Lehman isn't at full load at 1600rpm.
Immediate knee jerk reaction is to say "take'em off"
They are a lot of drag. On an airplane when they put the flaps down for landing speeds and lift requirements remember that there's a feeling that the bus driver just hit the brakes? The drag from flaps are very similar to the drag from trim tabs. The idea is that you trade the drag of the tabs for a better angle of attack that reduces over all drag orr/and reduces the wetted surface. Or other advantages like being able to see over the bow.
You probably run your boat 7 or 8 knots and at that speed I think trim tabs fixed (like yours) or otherwise offer no advantage. Just drag.
I've seen many pics of Walt's boat doing 8.5 knots and have always been amazed that she's running level. Are you running tabs Walt? I also see dwhatty's boat running level too.
If the boat was a good balanced design to begin w putting an over sized water tank aft was not a good idea. I'd guess you'd need to go well over 10 knots to balance the boat's extra water and then when you went faster you'd probably be running bow down and your directional stability lacking especially in following seas.
If a boat is designed well and has the correct weight balance/trim the boat should assume a good appropriate trim angle at all speeds (excluding planing craft). So w your big water tank aft you should move other tanks, batteries or other heavy equipment fwd to balance the big tanks.
Somebody went to some trouble putting those wedges on your boat. Try and contact that person and see what you can find out. Perhaps he was in the habbit of running 11 or 12 knots. That would result in a high trim angle and he put the tabs on for that. Unless he went faster they probably just added drag.
Does the boat float on her WL? Where is your heavy equipment compared to other IGs? How fast do you run your boat?
Something that can aid any boat that goes over 6 knots and has a submerged transom is making the transom to bottom edge as sharp as practical. How much aid I don't know but it will help.
There is a remote possibility that Walt's and dwhatty's boats are out of trim and are heavy in the bow. A 32' boat at over 8 knots should be at least a little bit bow high. Just a thought.
Andy,
Hopefully your Lehman isn't at full load at 1600rpm.
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BruceK
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Thanks for contributing Eric, appreciated.
The usual water tanks are one either side. I think the aft one and the fwd one under the V berth are intended to balance each other.
We do cruise at 7-8 knots, 1500-1600 rpm. There is definite lift in the bow at that speed, more apparent as you power down. We have no additional heavy equipment other than the water tanks, all seems similar to Andy`s Sarawana, except she has the aft cabin.
The boat handles well in following seas, we`ve seen around 14 knots with swells travelling nicely under us, no drama. No loss of direction,no burying the bow.
As far as I know the PO of 25 years spent most time anchored wearing out gensets, putting < 1800 hours on main engines after 29 years. I`ll see if others comment before approaching him, we spoke once, he was not the seller to me, I bought from a 1 yr owner who bought from him,and died.
The modification was seen at survey,opinion was "it`s to keep the bow down".
Removal will be quite a job, lots of screws and epoxy I suspect, now covered in very fresh antifoul, if I remove it will be next haul, not this one.
What did you think about causing cavitation degrading the a/f via the gaps between the keel? I`m thinking any disturbance occurs well after water passes the running gear, so no connection.
The usual water tanks are one either side. I think the aft one and the fwd one under the V berth are intended to balance each other.
We do cruise at 7-8 knots, 1500-1600 rpm. There is definite lift in the bow at that speed, more apparent as you power down. We have no additional heavy equipment other than the water tanks, all seems similar to Andy`s Sarawana, except she has the aft cabin.
The boat handles well in following seas, we`ve seen around 14 knots with swells travelling nicely under us, no drama. No loss of direction,no burying the bow.
As far as I know the PO of 25 years spent most time anchored wearing out gensets, putting < 1800 hours on main engines after 29 years. I`ll see if others comment before approaching him, we spoke once, he was not the seller to me, I bought from a 1 yr owner who bought from him,and died.
The modification was seen at survey,opinion was "it`s to keep the bow down".
Removal will be quite a job, lots of screws and epoxy I suspect, now covered in very fresh antifoul, if I remove it will be next haul, not this one.
What did you think about causing cavitation degrading the a/f via the gaps between the keel? I`m thinking any disturbance occurs well after water passes the running gear, so no connection.
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dwhatty
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I have them too. Rarely used them except once in awhile when running at WOT to bring bow down which gave a bit more "speed". Using the tabs would mean the difference between 11+ kts and 12-13 kts. Now that we added a prop cage its all academic since we can't get over 10 kts no matter what.
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Kind of strange, why they left those gaps?
Yes, but at higher speeds than your displacement vessel.
No relationship at all in my opinion,....no cavitation change, no fouling changes.
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Previous owner may have felt he could change this bow lift with the addition of this 'wedge' across the stern.
Most all vessels operating around their displace speed will show this tendency to sink a little more in the stern as they slow from displacement speed,...after all their sterns are falling into the single-length wave depression between the bow and the stern at displacement speed.
Have a look here, 'Stern Wedges'
Stern Wedges - Sailing Anarchy - Sailing Anarchy Forums
...or google that term.
I've seen them used on a few sportfish boats and a Navy ship. I specified them on my gamefishing cat (second edition) as we were operating well beyond displacement speeds and the planning surface areas at the rear of those slender catamaran hulls is small, so any extra help would be welcome.
I wouldn't bother removing it, I don't think its costing you any performance wise. And like you the gabs are causing any cavitation at the props.
Just my opinions
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Nomad Willy
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Bruce asked;
"What did you think about causing cavitation degrading the a/f via the gaps between the keel? I`m thinking any disturbance occurs well after water passes the running gear, so no connection."
I agree it's aft of the prop so no prop cavitation.
The "gaps between the keel" could cause turbulence though.
Ask your local laminator/FG expert what it would cost to remove them. I don't know how much performance degradation they will cause as I have very little experience w tabs/wedges but they certainly aren't helping your IG at 8 knots.
David or/and Walt do your tabs have much or any noticeable effect at 8 knots deployed about as much as would equal Bruce's fixed tabs? David and Walt's tabs probably are not very wide and the wedges on Bruce's boat are full width. But the upside is that your boat will perform as it did before plus the temporary gain you'll get from a clean bottom.
"What did you think about causing cavitation degrading the a/f via the gaps between the keel? I`m thinking any disturbance occurs well after water passes the running gear, so no connection."
I agree it's aft of the prop so no prop cavitation.
The "gaps between the keel" could cause turbulence though.
Ask your local laminator/FG expert what it would cost to remove them. I don't know how much performance degradation they will cause as I have very little experience w tabs/wedges but they certainly aren't helping your IG at 8 knots.
David or/and Walt do your tabs have much or any noticeable effect at 8 knots deployed about as much as would equal Bruce's fixed tabs? David and Walt's tabs probably are not very wide and the wedges on Bruce's boat are full width. But the upside is that your boat will perform as it did before plus the temporary gain you'll get from a clean bottom.
Tad Roberts
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Without accurate before and after test data no one knows what the wedges are really doing. To compare you could run speed/fuel burn trials if you found another IG36 with identical power train, props, and identical loading and bottom smoothness.
I would just leave them alone unless you are running 1000+ hours per year.
The US Navy found adding wedges always improved speed/trim/fuel burn on any vessel they tried them on. Typically they are running heavily loaded hulls at slightly above displacement speeds.
I would just leave them alone unless you are running 1000+ hours per year.
The US Navy found adding wedges always improved speed/trim/fuel burn on any vessel they tried them on. Typically they are running heavily loaded hulls at slightly above displacement speeds.
Gray Dog
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1999 IG 32 Teak Leak
Hello everyone,
I am new to the list and we are negotiating to buy a 1999 IG 32 Europa.
Several comments in this thread talk about leaks in the teak decks. I gather they are not to be expected in every case but can and do happen. If there are leaks I can easily understand that the cost to repair can be big bucks.
As a gut feel question - How worried do you think I should be for this year model and how would it be best to test for leaks during survey?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Wayne
Hello everyone,
I am new to the list and we are negotiating to buy a 1999 IG 32 Europa.
Several comments in this thread talk about leaks in the teak decks. I gather they are not to be expected in every case but can and do happen. If there are leaks I can easily understand that the cost to repair can be big bucks.
As a gut feel question - How worried do you think I should be for this year model and how would it be best to test for leaks during survey?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Wayne
sunvale1
Veteran Member
Been a while since I addressed the bow thruster issue. But I need to deal with it again. I'm in need of a new Sleipner 9" prop. The old one has a set screw that gave up the ghost. Also wondering if anyone on the list has changed the system short of changing thrusters all together.
ootb
Member
looking at the pictures of your ER lids/floors/decks, what kind of insulation do you have in there. Did you do it or did Halvorsen do that. I like to insulate the sound of my diesel some. Is that diamond plate aluminum under there or what. My winter project is painting the entire engine room and beyond new again to make it look cleaner.
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mainemandean
Member
Hi. I am trying to help a relative of mine, who owns an IG 39 she may be putting on the market. The boat is in exceptional condition except for one minor cosmetic issue. The interior of the door from the salon to the aft deck has a wooden (teak?) panel which has sustained water-related staining/discoloration. Only the door has this problem, which seems odd, since the door is more or less isolated from the rest of the house by being hung on hinges.
Does anyone know where that water might have come from? My only guess is that since the boat was at a dock, and therefore not always facing into the wind, that in heavy blowing rain from aft, water got to the door's window, which maybe was not sealed properly, and the water got in there. ??
Also: how would you repair this? Obviously, if my theory is correct, we would need to re-caulk the window. But as for the wood, I figure one would have to replace that whole teak panel; or (since sanding and use of teak-sealer would probably still show some water staining) paint that wooden panel to match the general color of the rest of the teak trim OR paint that panel the same color as the fiberglass gelcoat of the door and cabin. Any suggestions?
Has anyone else seen this type of leak in that location? Curiously, the water stains are in the bottom half of the panel (not the top, which is where I'd more expect to see something related to the door's window).
Any theories and suggestions are welcome!
Does anyone know where that water might have come from? My only guess is that since the boat was at a dock, and therefore not always facing into the wind, that in heavy blowing rain from aft, water got to the door's window, which maybe was not sealed properly, and the water got in there. ??
Also: how would you repair this? Obviously, if my theory is correct, we would need to re-caulk the window. But as for the wood, I figure one would have to replace that whole teak panel; or (since sanding and use of teak-sealer would probably still show some water staining) paint that wooden panel to match the general color of the rest of the teak trim OR paint that panel the same color as the fiberglass gelcoat of the door and cabin. Any suggestions?
Has anyone else seen this type of leak in that location? Curiously, the water stains are in the bottom half of the panel (not the top, which is where I'd more expect to see something related to the door's window).
Any theories and suggestions are welcome!
dwhatty
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Both the helm door and the aft door lower interior panels on our IG32 have had this staining. Some of it is from exterior water, especially the helm door, but condensation also contributes. The moisture may be getting in from bad caulking around the widow above, but also from running down the exterior of the panel and seeping into the join between the panel and the lower surrounding solid teak frame and then wicking up in the end grain of the veneer.
Our helm door panel got bad enough that I decided to replace it. It was quite a process as it was a thin veneer over ply that was epoxied during construction of the door to the fiberglass outer part of the door behind it. Then the solid teak door frame was constructed and screwed and epoxied to the fiberglass and on top of the edges of the panel.
I had to carefully and laboriously router the old panel out using a movable jig extending from the solid teak frame on one side, over the top of the panel, and then onto the top of the frame on the other side. Then edge guides to cut back the solid teak frame on all four sides of the panel.
I then epoxied a new veneer over ply panel into the routered out space. I made sure the grain on the edges of the panel got a good epoxy soaking.
Next I cut, fit, gave a decorative edge routing to, and epoxied solid teak trim strips around all four edges of the panel butting against the cut back solid teak frames and extending slightly over the edges of the panel.
Then I brushed clear epoxy over the exterior of the panel followed by multiple coats of satin spar urethane with UV filters.
Five years later the panel looks band new still.
The aft door lower panel on our boat is constructed a little differently. It also seems to be veneer inside but mated to a thin gelcoated panel on the outside. May have to cut out the whole kit and kaboodle if and when the stain gets too bad. Might actually be an easier job than the helm door.
mainemandean
Member
Thanks so much, dwhatty.
mainemandean
Member
I also posted my questions about the stained teak on the door's interior in the Maintenance forum. Please post any responses there. Thanks.
ootb
Member
The set screw that holds the prop on the shaft has no ability to hold the prop in place. I replace 3 props in 2 years. This winter I'm having a new shaft made that will hold the prop on in a different way with a through bolt from the end.
