Snubber Preferences

Thanks for everyones input I went with the mantus hook

Nice, that should do ya! Make sure you have chaffing guards at the boat side for the big blows.

Like Flyright I also use a Shockles Anchor Snubber. It comes with a SS shackle on each end and works perfectly. I also have a Shockles Line Snubber that works well and is somewhat easier to attach to my chain, but the carabiner clip won't fit through smaller chain (smaller than 3/8"). Both are great products - well made and strong.

motion30: Nice idea with the splice.

Steve said:

I have used a std galvanized grab hook on a 1/2'' line vee bridle for years. I recently bought a Mantus chain hook which I rigged on the same bridle instead of the hook. I have only used it twice the first time it was off when I retrived the anchor, the second time it worked fine. I believe I probably did not hook it on properly the first time.
It looks good and very sturdy. I think it will be fine. if not I will surely advise here.
Here is their video link
MANTUS CHAIN GRABBER - YouTube

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Steve its greg with Mantus,,, when did you purchase the hook, I wanted to make sure your bought a new design with tighter tolerances that became available feb 10th 2013..., if not let me know we will replace it for you... also
Greg

Conrad said:

To answer the original question, we use a snap shackle to connect to the chain, and then let out enough chain/snubber so that the chain has about 2' of slack above the waterline; the snubber line never gets wet. Works for us, as the intent is strictly to eliminate noise. (This is a single line set-up, not a bridle.)

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This pretty much sums up my approach to using a snubber. Since I certainly don't expect to be anchoring in conditions approaching hurricane force, my effort is directed at the more common problem, the problem of noise generated by chain slapping back and forth in the roller. If your master birth is in the bow, as mine is, the return on this focus far exceeds the advantages of going all chain and expecting the absolute worst wind conditions. To my way of thinking, Conrad & Flywrights approach makes the most sense.

SeaHorse II said:

This pretty much sums up my approach to using a snubber. Since I certainly don't expect to be anchoring in conditions approaching hurricane force, my effort is directed at the more common problem, the problem of noise generated by chain slapping back and forth in the roller. If your master birth is in the bow, as mine is, the return on this focus far exceeds the advantages of going all chain and expecting the absolute worst wind conditions. To my way of thinking, Conrad & Flywrights approach makes the most sense.

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Interestingly the noise that we are attempting to eliminate is the growling caused by the chain as it scrapes across the bottom when describing an arc around the anchor. (We typically anchor in 30 - 50 feet on mud/gravel bottoms). The snubber mutes but doesn't entirely eliminate the noise.

Would it be possible to make a snubber out of a jam cleat like sailboats have?

Actually it's a briddle I'm really looking to make.

Sail snap shakle on made up lines of 1/4 and 5/16 and even 1/2 in nylon for a heavy breeze, for the rare times we use chain

However a good rolling hitch and light line will add shock absorbtion to a usually too heavy 5/8 line used for most overnights.

So, when with the line part of the rode is in the windlass, should I be using a snubber of some sort to relieve stress on the windlass? I don't see anyone using a snubber while using a line rode.

David O said:

So, when with the line part of the rode is in the windlass, should I be using a snubber of some sort to relieve stress on the windlass? I don't see anyone using a snubber while using a line rode.

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I just cleat off the line rode & don't bother with a snubber.

When using rope and chain combo and you have let out all chain and the anchor rope is over the bow roller is it best to use a smaller line with a rolling hitch attached to the anchor line and cleat off ? Is there a brand of hook that works with chain and rope? How long should the smaller line be ? Does it need to extend over the bow roller ?

Sorry didn't mean to use the term rope . I meant line . I know that's a no no

Stay "in formation," Pack Mule.



If you let out a fair amount of nylon rode (at least as long as a snubber), you won't need a snubber if the line is tied to a bollard or cleat. The nylon rode should be aligned to minimize chafe while holding the boat's bow in the desired direction. You may be "over thinking" the problem.

If all your chain is out, can you cleat off the line? That's what I do after letting out 120 ft of chain. I haven't found the need to use a smaller line snubber on the line portion of my rode.

>The only operational disadvantage I can see is if one is likely to be caught in really strong winds<

So the fun of scrubbing it clean of all the mud is part of a fitness program?

Every AM with a scrub brush , a powerful deck wash pump , and muddy water blasting into the breeze , could be an operational disadvantage to many. I am way too lazy , and the bride would MUTINY !

When too lazy to change out a too heavy nylon anchor rode 25 ft of 3/8 tied on 20 ft out with a rolling hitch can add a bit of spring in light chop.

My potential problem is I may not have enough room between my windlass base
and my anchor roller base for a decent size cleat . Could be a real knuckle buster . I was think of using a pad eye with heavy backing plate with line attached and used like a snubber.I think I need at least a 10 " cleat

You could install a large cleat immediately adjacent to the gypsy. I'd add chafe protection when needed to the nylon rode where it leaves the end of the anchor roller.

I like what I saw on a Little Harbor (I think...cant remember now)...bow eyes with permanently attached bridle...a single for a smaller boat to a single eye would work too.

Best news f all...cuts your scope by quite a bit when anchoring in shallow water.

markpierce said:

You could install a large cleat immediately adjacent to the gypsy. I'd add chafe protection when needed to the nylon rode where it leaves the end of the anchor roller.

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Thanks Mark ,Sometimes it's just right in front of you and you can't see it . I was hung up on the cleat needing to be in between the gypsy and the roller . I've got to add two more cleats on this plaform for bow dock lines .Probably put one on each side of the roller on the platform.

psneeld said:

I like what I saw on a Little Harbor (I think...cant remember now)...bow eyes with permanently attached bridle...a single for a smaller boat to a single eye would work too.

Best news f all...cuts your scope by quite a bit when anchoring in shallow water.

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That sounds good also maybe a bow eye on each side of the roller plaform with a bridle . Is there a hook that is designesd to work with both chain and nylon rode for when your in shallow water?

Pack Mule said:

Is there a brand of hook that works with chain and rope? How long should the smaller line be ? Does it need to extend over the bow roller ?

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I have all chain so to take the slack off the windless and prevent rattles I have a chain hook http://www.harborfreight.com/media/...b33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_17437.jpg attached to one end of 10 foot piece of line with a loop in the other. The loop drops over the samson post and my wife places the chain hook on a link and I let out chain until the snubber line goes over the roller and takes up the slack.

Dave

Not a great angle, but you can see all the parts if you look closely. I have the bow roller, then the leash to prevent inadvertant deployment while underway, then the cleat, then the windlass, then just aft of the windlass, is the sampson post. This post can take the line load off the windlass for extended anchorages like overnight. I just lay the line over the gypsy and the windlass housing and wrap onto the sampson post. A cleat located in this area could be used similarly, but can also become a tripping hazard if bow real estate is tight.

My Muir cougar windlass has a cleat cast into the housing I use it for a safety lanyard while cruising. There is Bayliner factory cleat 12" to 16" behind the windlass, I use a snubber on this one when overnighting on the hook. During the day I leave the strain on the windlass with the pawl dogged in.

River Cruiser said:

My Muir cougar windlass has a cleat cast into the housing I use it for a safety lanyard while cruising. There is Bayliner factory cleat 12" to 16" behind the windlass, I use a snubber on this one when overnighting on the hook. During the day I leave the strain on the windlass with the pawl dogged in.

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Ron, Muir strongly advise removing the pawl and stowing it nearby on a cable tie or similar, only to be used for motor failure manual retrieve.
I don`t like using the cleat mounted into the windlass cover for anything substantial, except briefly.
A good thing about a snubber used with chain is if it fails the load just goes back on the chain. I often find a second release of chain necessary to ensure the load is off the chain and on the snubber line. My snubber line is woven through a rubber load cushioning block usually used on slip mooring lines, to absorb stresses. I don`t see a reason not to use the snubber for daytime anchoring.

The different diameter snubber lines required can have a sail style snap shakel at one end and a piece of chain at the other that loops on to a cleat and the short chain goes over rail to not chafe away the very thin stretchy snubber.

We have a cleat directly behind our Maxwell VWC, which is what we'll use.