Just happen to be reading thru this subject thread, and was about to ask if you ever went to see the boat.Ok, so I went and saw the actual boat. A little rough actually, and I could not get inside. Would I live aboard? Sure, why not. But that call is a little far off just yet, but maybe if we sell the house fast well have a plan...
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Kidding aside, if you bought this for 40K, did cosmetic repairs only, then took it out and sunk it in 10 years your capital cost would only have been 4K a year. That is a fraction of what you would loose in depreciation on a new boat. If you stripped her and sold off all the equipment before you sunk it you could probably drop the capital cost to 2K per year. hmmmm.. where did you say this gorgeous vessel was located?
Just happen to be reading thru this subject thread, and was about to ask if you ever went to see the boat.
Couple of questions:
1) Why didn't you get to see the inside,...or was it that you just wanted to explore the outside before making any appt to see the inside?
2) Looks like rot on the overhead in photo #2, I imagine that came from water entering that exterior fitting that appears to anchor some sort of mast stay?
If it were a queston as to how long she might remain afloat, I would give serious onsideration to these relatively new Polyurea coatings. Could make this vessel float for a long time.
1) Blast & Ballistic Mitigation - Dragonshield Polyurea - YouTube#
2) polyurea hull coating "Dragon Shield" works as a blast shield and also on boats
3) K5#
Sorry, I don't know,..but I suspect it may be close to neutral buoyancy ?Brian - any idea what this stuff weights?
I'm not so sure I would apply it to a 'sound hull' unless there were special circumstances under which the vessel would be operated.If the hull is sound, would is not be a good idea to apply it to the bow, to help protect the boat if you struck an object at sea or even docking.
I am quite sure that gel coat COULD NOT be applied over it.Another thought, can a gel coat be applied over it? Again, weight.
Why not roof tar 1/2 plywood to bottom four times for 1" new hull and 2 time to sides up to rubrail. Then seal with new poly's and finish for slick look. Thats a new hull not needing frame support.
The broker told me the deck supports are the problem, so re-wood and ply the decks.
Not my idea, Butchler's book on boatbuilding recommends this approach.
While we're at it, get rid of the 892 and putin a 6BT cummings. Hope the trans is 3 to 1.
Hells bells, I'm 70 and if the old girl sinks in 15 to 20 years, I've had a hell of a ride.