Journey of a Lifetime

enjoyed the visit last night safe travels. This is better than the "days of Our Lives!"

Anyone else seeing the AIS data? I had it earlier, but it's disappeared from my iPad. Seeing other AIS reports in the area. Spot is showing the boat west of Florence at 4 PM.

SomeSailor said:

It's a small satellite transponder. It transmits every 10 minutes and for $49/yr you can tell the world where you're at.

You can track them here:

SPOT Shared Page

The SPOT itself costs about $100.

They transmit in the UHF band @ 1610.73 to 1620.57 MHz, Receive @ 2484.39 to 2499.15 MHz

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Find them here

Doing 14 knots, according to AIS.

We were not tracked for a while but marinetraffic.com is picking us up again. Live Ships Map - AIS - Vessel Traffic and Positions

We are 10nm offshore abeam the Umpqua River Bar, 18.5 nm from the entrance to Coos Bay and running almost parallel with long swells and flat seas for a change. Nice.

Looks you guys are heading for a quiet evening in North Bend after a nice run down the Oregon coast. Really enjoying living your trip vicariously.

In and tied up at the fuel dock, waiting for morning to unload some boat bucks, at least two.

We’re now in Coos Bay, OR after a 13-hour marathon run that covered about 175 miles. We crossed over the bar to get in here around 6:30 or so and this was a very long day. Much smoother than the day we had getting into Ilwaco, but still pretty lumpy. It started out fairly smooth again, then the swells picked up to about 4’-7’ with about a 1’-2’ wind chop on top of them. I'm learning a lot about ocean navigating and about ocean swells and wind waves and how the boat reacts to them.
I spent much more time at the helm today, having apparently beaten down the Gods of seasickness. I may have spoken too soon though because tomorrow we pass Cape Blanco and that area is notorious for being rough.
So here are some pictures from Ilwaco. It’s not much of a town so there aren’t many pics of it, but here’s what I shot….
THis was on a garage in town. The plaque near the top marks the high water mark of the flood of 1947

Main street Ilwaco. Not much there.

Two views of the harbor...


Our Chariot....

AKBASSKING and his Admiral stopped by while we were in Ilwaco and bought us a couple of boxes of Klondike Bars. Gotta love boaters like that. From left to right...me, Stuart, Tom and Doug.

Red sky at night......you know the rest! IT worked because we had pretty smooth seas for much of today.

That is some adventure you guys are having!

I'm reading your exploits, remembering my trip last summer, and am staring off into space, dreaming.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY STUART!!!!

I hear that you're turning 70 today. What an amazing birthday present! I'm sure Lynn is wishing you were there to show off your new toy, but that'll have to wait another couple of days.

Lynn told me that you have permission to buy lots of fuel for yourself today. Doug will have to buy you an ice cream for you when you guys get to Eureka tonight.

Travel safe and enjoy your birthday on the high seas and on a beautiful new yacht.

It’s Thursday, coming up on 0600 and I’m the first one up. That’s not been the pattern because I haven’t really felt like dragging my butt out of the sack. I think yesterday’s run, being so much nicer than the one before when we were headed to Ilwaco, has made me feel better.
Last night’s dinner was a beef roast along with corn on the cob that was cooked on the propane grill. That was preceeded by some taco chips, guacamole and salsa for an appetizer. The cook (me) is feeling a lot better and a lot more like cooking, and everyone benefits from that.
Yesterday was fun and different. Oh yeah, we rocked and rolled in the swells but nothing like the last run. The sun was out much of the day as the clouds burned off and it made for a more pleasant day. We were cruising along about noonish with me at the helm when Doug and I heard a strange sound. We couldn’t figure out what it was until a USCG chopper went by us on a parallel course about a hundred yards off our port side and about 200’ high. I was tempted to call him on CH 16 and see if he’d swing around to give us a Kodak Moment but resisted the urge.
I was napping on the salon couch when the whales made their appearance so I missed that one. Darn, I hate it when that happens. We’ve established a pattern of sharing the helm duties and when we’re not on the helm one of us is usually standing watch nearby and the other is on the internet or napping. We only ran across a couple of crab pots yesterday but that’s snaps us to attention because where there’s one there’s usually a second one and third, etc. We spent most of the day in water too deep for pots so that was a good thing. The depth finder reads down to 500’ and it was not reading for a couple of hours yesterday. The charts showed we were in 200 fathoms (600’) for awhile so that’s what happened.
One of the things I’ve been impressed with is the immensity of this ocean, and yet how close we can be to other boats at some times. The AIS is a great tool because it identifies who is around you and can let you know if there’s any chance of a collision. I was watching one such track yesterday long before we could identify the target. It was almost on a head-on course with us and I suggested to Doug (he was at the helm) that we might want to change course to stbd a bit to give a little more room between us as we drew near each other. He didn’t and we passed by about 100 yards or less from this vessel….

It’s amazing that 11 miles offshore we’d pass so close to another boat…and a big one at that.
Here’s a shot of the AIS screen that we watch all day. There are three screens to keep an eye on…AIS, radar and the GPS/Plotter. It doesn’t take but a second go give all three a quick scan and it’s a comforting feeling to know they’re there.

Here’s a shot of what it looked like yesterday with the sun shining so nice. That sure does warm up the day a lot.

As we were coming into Coos Bay and crossing the bar I got this shot of the north breakwater. Those things sure do keep the waves down when it’s blowing and they’re nice to have when entering a bar. Knock on wood, but so far our bar crossings have been non-events. As you can see we’ve lost the sunshine and this morning it’s still heavily overcast.

Here are three shots of what the south side of the channel across the bar looks like at Coos Bay. Interesting rock formations here and very pretty to look at. They would be fun to explore in a dinghy.



So here we sit waiting for the fuel dock to open. Our destination today is Eureka, CA, a jaunt of about 162 miles. That’s a bit shorter than we did yesterday and that puts us close to the first of two notorious rough spots…Cape Blonco. The second, at Cape Mendocino will be in Friday’s run, then we’ll be in San Francisco….and near home.

Feelin' Better GFC

Great to see some hardcore boaters doing what boats are meant to do. Questions:

• What are your thoughts on traveling further offshore and riding the deeper sea contours.
• I may have missed it, is the boat equipped with stabilizers?
• Normally rudder size on vessels like yours are set up for 12 to 20 knots and show less control as one throttles back to trawler speed say 8 knots. Your thoughts/findings in this area?
• What has been the highest sustained wind speed you've encountered?
• Any tsunami debris showing up?
• Many slower trawlers travel at night to do the same distance you do in daylight. What safety issues do you find in night travel on the West Coast?

You have done a great job timing the bar crossings, crossed fingers that luck and skill remains

Fantastic voyage, youz guys. Great sharing.....thanks for having us aboard. Green with envy!

I'm glad to see Seattle area boaters get out in the Pacific and experience what I do every time I go out. Great going guys and glad to see you are getting sea legs. I, for one, would run like you are because you are taking advantage of the current that runs south. If I was going north, I'd go 20 or so miles off the coast.

Thanks for the experience as I join your voyage and I am enjoying it very much.

I was thinking of doing the northbound voyage once in my life and that might still become a reality.

I think those spots won't be as bad as perceived when you get to them. Good luck today and keep the photo's coming.

The Admiral wants me to ask if there are any Klondike bars left? She says Doug??? Have you been sharing?:lol:

sunchaser said:

Great to see some hardcore boaters doing what boats are meant to do. Questions:

• What are your thoughts on traveling further offshore and riding the deeper sea contours.
• I may have missed it, is the boat equipped with stabilizers?
• Normally rudder size on vessels like yours are set up for 12 to 20 knots and show less control as one throttles back to trawler speed say 8 knots. Your thoughts/findings in this area?

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sunchaser I can comment on one or two of these items, as I have their boats baby sister. (Stuart has a Bayliner 5788, I have the 4788)

I was told by my weather guy that the sea starts to grow at <200' based on wave interaction with the sea bed. I do not know if this is true, but it is what I was told so I avoid places <200' in heavy sea states. running further offshore won't help the sea state, but if its a more direct route then...

I do not believe Stuarts 5788 has stabilizers, although it would benefit from them. (I'm thinking about them on my 4788 but havent found anybody in Alaska to do the fiberglass work that I trust)

The 4788 has large enough rudders that I never had a situation where my autopilot couldnt keep locked on. I've been in some very significant following, and even harder to control aft quartering seas with no issues. The 5788's rusdders are similarly sized for the vessel.

sunchaser said:

Great to see some hardcore boaters doing what boats are meant to do. Questions:

• What are your thoughts on traveling further offshore and riding the deeper sea contours.
• I may have missed it, is the boat equipped with stabilizers?
• Normally rudder size on vessels like yours are set up for 12 to 20 knots and show less control as one throttles back to trawler speed say 8 knots. Your thoughts/findings in this area?
• What has been the highest sustained wind speed you've encountered?
• Any tsunami debris showing up?
• Many slower trawlers travel at night to do the same distance you do in daylight. What safety issues do you find in night travel on the West Coast?

Click to expand...

Kevin (thank you) was spot on in his answer to the first three.
4. 20 knots or so
5. None so far
6. Worrisome in this order: crab pots, weather getting worse, difficult entrances with bars if we need to come in. That's what come to mind right now.

The Klondike Bars. We have found an excellent reason to have them aboard (courtesy of our friend Tom, Alaska Sea-Duction). We have a hard time getting Doug away from the helm. But tell him you left him a Klondike Bar on the counter downstairs and he will release his grip on the wheel. Works every time, but we are getting low on bars.

Next time you see a USCG bird, get on 16 and request a humanitarian drop of Klondike bars....

Since getting back into boating, I'm interested in adding a Class B AIS transponder to the boat, for the obvious safety enhancements. Watching your travels has just added to this interest.

I've been surprised, however, to see your AIS reports disappear at times. The Spot reports have been consistent, as I've found with my motorcycle touring. The AIS doesn't seem as reliable.

At the present time, Spot is showing you a little south of Cape Blanco (at 11:18 AM), but the AIS is MIA. I wonder if that's due to the 2W mode for Class B units? While I've used Spot Messenger for years, I have little experience with the AIS units, so this might be the norm?

-Vic

SHASA III said:

Since getting back into boating, I'm interested in adding a Class B AIS transponder to the boat, for the obvious safety enhancements. Watching your travels has just added to this interest.

I've been surprised, however, to see your AIS reports disappear at times. The Spot reports have been consistent, as I've found with my motorcycle touring. The AIS doesn't seem as reliable.

At the present time, Spot is showing you a little south of Cape Blanco (at 11:18 AM), but the AIS is MIA. I wonder if that's due to the 2W mode for Class B units? While I've used Spot Messenger for years, I have little experience with the AIS units, so this might be the norm?

-Vic

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Vic, the Spot is satellite based and does not transmit to a land based receiver whereas AIS is VHF based and is limited in distance. Class B's only transmit and receive between vessels in their immediate area. If one is a Class A, or there is a land based AIS repeater in the area, my transmission will be piggybacked on their reporting to Vessel Traffic, Coast Guard, etc. and that is how you pick us up on the internet. Right now we are not showing any AIS targets in the vicinity, so no Class A's, so no repeaters to share our vessel name, MMSI, position, speed, and heading information.

SHASA III said:

Since getting back into boating, I'm interested in adding a Class B AIS transponder to the boat, for the obvious safety enhancements. Watching your travels has just added to this interest.

I've been surprised, however, to see your AIS reports disappear at times. The Spot reports have been consistent, as I've found with my motorcycle touring. The AIS doesn't seem as reliable.

At the present time, Spot is showing you a little south of Cape Blanco (at 11:18 AM), but the AIS is MIA. I wonder if that's due to the 2W mode for Class B units? While I've used Spot Messenger for years, I have little experience with the AIS units, so this might be the norm?

-Vic

Click to expand...

We need to remember that AIS is primarialy a vessle to vessle safety system. The shore based component does not generally have a real time safety implication.

Ship to ship you can look at other vessles within VHF range, and use that data to determine a best course to work your way through them. It is a addition to RADAR. The vessels will show up on your chart plotter (and or your radar) even if they are not dicernable on RADAR due to land contours, etc... You can see a target, and instantly know its speed, bearing, etc...

So, is AIS reliable? yes it is ship to ship. The land based component is only as reliable as the link to a shore station. No link, no land based AIS.

OK...that clarifies it. I knew Spot talked to the birds, and suspected that the AIS VHF limitations might be a factor. Considering that, since any of the big boys that might do you harm would be in range, the AIS seems like a huge addition to the safety margin. I spent too many times going from Pt. Townsend to Victoria, getting nailed by the fog, & wishing for at least a radar! I now have the radar, but AIS seems like a useful augmentation.

Hope your seas are smooth.

Pau Hana said:

Next time you see a USCG bird, get on 16 and request a humanitarian drop of Klondike bars....

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LOVE IT!!! If they can land in my front yard to pick them up!

GFC said:

... We spent most of the day in water too deep for pots so that was a good thing. The depth finder reads down to 500’ and it was not reading for a couple of hours yesterday. The charts showed we were in 200 fathoms (600’) for awhile so that’s what happened. (my bold)

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Right when you think these guys know what they're doing...


Just kidding. I am enjoying the adventure.

Tonic said:

Right when you think these guys know what they're doing...


Just kidding. I am enjoying the adventure.

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Don't worry. He did a head smack when he realized the mistake, but he's been on watch so he will have to correct that little gaff later.

Just curious how you guys are getting internet access? I'm assuming you are posting some of these posts while offshore.

Ron

windmist said:

Just curious how you guys are getting internet access? I'm assuming you are posting some of these posts while offshore.

Ron

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Ron the National Security Agency is picking up their transmissions and passing them along.

windmist said:

Just curious how you guys are getting internet access? I'm assuming you are posting some of these posts while offshore.

Ron

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Ron, I was told that northern California would be a dead area for cell reception, but with a marine antenna installed and a 4G Wilson Sleek on the Verizon network, we have had almost constant cell reception. 20 miles northwest of Eureka right now and while it happens to still be 1X service, we are getting 4 bars. Will be at least 3G in Eureka.

The only real dead spot we have encountered is the northern Washington coast for about 50 miles. Other than that, we have been connected almost all the way.

We found cell reception spotty below Brookings. We saw nothing in the water to run into except whales and the occaisional crab pot and kelp. The Coast Guard helicopter was probably doing routine fishery patrol but we have also been told by helicopter crew members that they also video tape boats underway for homeland security purposes. You can sometimes contact a helo on VHF ch. 83. Good luck at Mendocino, biggest seas I have ever seen. uncomfortable but not dangerous. These were conditions as of last week on our North bound trip from Newport Beach........

Day 6
We just arrived in our first California marina, here at Eureka. What a beautiful day it was for being out on the ocean. The temps were probably in the high 60’s to 70’s, there were almost no winds, the clouds burned off by around 10:30 and it turned out to be a great day.

We left Coos Bay around 0715 after taking on a full load of fuel and it was about 7:00 p.m. when we got here, covering about 170 miles in that 12 hour period. I don’t think it could have been a better day. We saw a couple of whales, had some dolphins playing around the boat this morning an got to dodge some crab pots here and there during the day.

We cruised around 14-15kts and this afternoon we had a following sea pushing us along at times at speeds up to 16+ knots. I don’t have any pics of the whales; sorry but they were there then gone too quickly. I do have some photos and videos of what was just a beautiful day on the water. I’m going to make this short so I can add some comments to the forum comments and questions.

This is what it looked like all day long. What a great day on the ocean.




Some clouds over the CA coast.


USCG Station Eureka, CA


Following Seas at the dock in Eureka


I'm loading some videos to Youtube and will post them when they're loaded.