bottom paint choice

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Slowboat 37

Slowboat 37

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2010
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191
We are hauling out next week for bottom paint, hull waxing and mics. jobs. We are moored in a river but cruise in saltwater and I need to choose the type of paint to use. I hate to think of the river slowly washing the paint off while I get no enjoyment using the boat. Is there a compromise? I know there are several others who are on rivers part time as well, what do you think?
 
What is on there now??? If you have an ablative paint now then you need to put an ablative paint on over it. If you have a hard paint then you can put either. I have used a hard paint for the last decade. And would HIGHLY recommend Interlux Ultra with Biolux...aka Ultra Bio. I have used it on my last two boats and got 5+ years out of it on each boat. My boats move a lot...ie I use them a lot. My latest boat will be going in the yard this week...and it will splash with Ultra Bio.

Ultra with Biolux Antifouling Boat Paint | Interlux

Note the compatibility chart in the right margin!
 
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Baker said:
What is on there now??? If you have an ablative paint now then you need to put an ablative paint on over it. If you have a hard paint then you can put either.
Click to expand...

When I hauled my boat to paint I did not know what was on it. I contacted Interlux via their forum: yachtpaintforum.com
They recommended Ultra but going with convention wisdom I was worried that I might be painting a hard over an ablative. Below is Interlux reply to that concern:

I'll absolutely agree with you that many applicators feel that hard and ablative paints are not compatible with each other, which isn't entirely true. In most instances when switching from hard to ablative or vice versa, you can generally safely do so as long as you follow the appropriate preparation recommendations which in your case would be what is mentioned above.

Below is what is mentioned above:

Yes that is correct, there are some antifouling paints which are incompatible with other coatings. Since you are unsure of what is presently on the bottom I would recommend thoroughly sanding the bottom with 80 grit sandpaper and then remove all sanding residue with Special Thinner 216. After the surface has been cleaned I would recommend applying 1 coat of Primocon Primer which is traditionally used on metal surfaces but for this purpose you will be using it as a tie coat. Allow the Primocon to dry for at least 24 hours and then you can apply your first coat of antifouling paint.

I used Ultra and conformed closely to Interlux's application recommendations. The paint has been on 2 1/2 years with no problems, but I plan to redo this winter.
 
Good point Tim. I should have quantified my statement by saying...."unless properly prepared.".

Now that I think about it, I have no clue what is on my boat???....dammit!
 
Baker said:
Now that I think about it, I have no clue what is on my boat???....dammit!
Click to expand...

Nor did I. The PO turned hostile and would not provide any info.

For that reason I contacted Interlux via their forum and they suggested Ultra based on how I used the boat.
 
Ultra really is good stuff!!!!
 
I know it's an ablative paint but can't remember the brand. I not sure it matters that much since this job is a packaged deal from the yard and my color choices are black. Makes sense to stick with the same type.
 
Baker said:
I have used a hard paint for the last decade. And would HIGHLY recommend Interlux Ultra with Biolux...aka Ultra Bio.
Click to expand...
:iagree:That's what I use but re-painted after 3 years. Could have made it 4 easily.
 
I used "Super Shipbottom Paint".... Super Shipbottom  Hard Ablative Antifouling Paint Its made in FL for FL waters....but it seems that a lot of people up north use it as well. Been on the bottom over a year...no growth...we're in brackish water...where you can literally watch the oysters grow on the floating dock's pontoons.....

I also like the price on the paint.....
 
I always had good luck in New England waters with Pettit Hydrocoat so decided to give it a try on FL boat. Worked great for me there too but then that boat is moved every couple of days usually so may not be so good if not on the move. I'd go by local knowledge.
 
I'm clueless, so left the paint decision to the local boatyard.

img_161885_0_1337b2b679280a463b6af1826a52eb02.jpg
 
Fresh water doesn't count!
 
Baker said:
What is on there now??? If you have an ablative paint now then you need to put an ablative paint on over it. If you have a hard paint then you can put either.

Note the compatibility chart in the right margin!
Click to expand...

Not only is the above simply not the case, but the compatibility chart confirms it.

interluxcompatibilitychart.jpg
 
fstbttms said:
Not only is the above simply not the case, but the compatibility chart confirms it.

interluxcompatibilitychart.jpg
Click to expand...

Yep...we have already figured that out and I corrected my verbage! BUT....we do ALWAYS ALWAYS appreciate your input!!!! I have learned TONS from your posts. Thanks for your participation!!!
 
Woolsey yacht shield SF, got a free bottom job from the marina last year & that was their choice, I felt good about the choice knowing the mechanic that did it also used it on his boat.
 
Slowboat 37 said:
I know it's an ablative paint but can't remember the brand. I not sure it matters that much since this job is a packaged deal from the yard and my color choices are black. Makes sense to stick with the same type.
Click to expand...
The idea of ablative paint is that it wears way, presenting a fresh surface to prevent fouling, and reducing build up, so don`t worry about it getting washed off,that`s the idea.
If you really can`t work out what it is, or find something compatible, you could apply an undercoat lke Primocon before the a/f. And if what you used is working for you, try to continue using it.
 
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