Hendo's Randall 35 Cray Boat complete rebuild, Perth, Western Australia

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Matt - Never look back! Go forward!! BTW - All your recent parts picts are so bright and shinnnnnie, must mean you have sunny days a commen! Good luck and enjoy!! :thumb:

I like shiny things :)

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Hendo:
I have a Perkins 4-236; my exhaust mixer is threaded into the exhaust manifold, not welded. Sooner or later it will need replacement, like mine did. I might have misunderstood what you are going to do though.
Mike
Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Hi Mike.
No mate, you did understand correctly.

I didn't think she'd need to be replaced! :-O

I figured cause she was stainless steel and was electroplated that she'd be good for quite a while without issue. Certainly not needing replacement.

Perhaps I should look at getting flanges welded on to the exhaust mixer dry side and the stainless exhaust if she's going to need replacing?!

The guys said to weld it on the exhaust so just i went with that.

What's your mixer made out of?

Is it electroplated? Or is this just a sales gimmick?

Why does it need to be replaced (rust or clogging up with sh!t etc or ...... )?

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I can't figure out how to add a picture of my exhaust mixer to this reply, any ideas? I posted a picture of my mixer in another post awhile back when I was about to replace it, maybe you can find it. Or pm an email address and I can send it that way.
Mike
 
Couple of questions that I need your help with

Q.1 - Sea strainer. As you know I bought a sea strainer for AXE this week. Was playing with it today and pulling it apart to see how it works etc and am a little concerned with the filter basket in the middle. Whilst it would be great for weed and crap like that, how does one reduce sand and smaller items like that getting sucked up (please don't say stay in deep water lol) does anyone put a filter element over the basket? Or just leave it as is? If I reduce the holes to much, she'll probably clog up real quick thus reducing water flow and intimately Killing the impeller but I'm also concerned about sand and crap getting into my exchangers and coolers.

Thoughts/suggestions?

Q.2 - Thread name.

The thread name doesn't really relate to its topic. Any suggestions on what I should call it and how so I change it?

Cheers
Hendo ;-)

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I don't think you need to worry about filtering out sand & crud, it should just pass on thru the system. If you had some kind of water filter it would probably clog up pretty quick and overheat your engine due to lack of water flow, not good.
I emailed you a couple pics a few minutes ago re the exhaust mixer.
Mike
 
Hendo,
The basket supplied is more than enough.
You'r right any more restriction and it will clog up faster and give you grief.
Cheers
Benn
 
Hendo,
The basket supplied is more than enough.
You'r right any more restriction and it will clog up faster and give you grief.
Cheers
Benn

Cheers mate. Im Probably just being a worry wart and over thinking the smaller things ay!

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Hendo, re the thread name, if you would like to change it to something which speaks more of the actual thread content, eg..'Complete rebuild of boat in Western Australia', then I could change it for you, but the name change would apply right from the beginning. If you did not want that, then specify which post to break it at, and we would move it to being a new thread. With your preferred title. Pm me with what you think if you like, I'll hold off until you have had time to think about it.
 
Hendo, re the thread name, if you would like to change it to something which speaks more of the actual thread content, eg..'Complete rebuild of boat in Western Australia', then I could change it for you, but the name change would apply right from the beginning. If you did not want that, then specify which post to break it at, and we would move it to being a new thread. With your preferred title. Pm me with what you think if you like, I'll hold off until you have had time to think about it.

PM sent :)

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Ahh - Fresh new title, Very nice.
Hendo - I'm glad you didn't break it up. This thread could give "Singles vs Twins" a run for its money.
 
Ahh - Fresh new title, Very nice.
Hendo - I'm glad you didn't break it up. This thread could give "Singles vs Twins" a run for its money.

Yeah it's good hey! Pete made that up!
Yeah keep it as one. read a guy ranting about thread titles not relating to the thread topic so thought I'd comply. 400 odd posts and it still said G'day from WA lol

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This thread has a long way to run before the story is complete.:thumb::thumb:
 
Did the police ever catch the scum that attacked your neighbor?

Nope nor have they been to interested in locating the perps that damaged my ute.

It all worked out in the end as repair bill was $16,000 and I only had to pay $800. She's like a new car now ;-)

And my neighbour, well he's got a nice scar on his mellon and his parents say he's not allowed to have anymore parties so its a win win :-D

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Good news day today. Got the nod from BP and start work back in the Oil and Gas industry on Monday yaay

Got a call from the sandblasters to say my things are ready to be picked up. They look awesome.

I got my rudder, rudder post, prop and drive shaft brace thingy and the original steering wheel done. I also got them to powdercoat the original wheel as I plan on making a wall ornament to hang in AXE with a little brass anchor that I found in an antique store.

Im Thinking about mounting them like I have shown in the pics but open to suggestions. I had no intention in using the wheel for its main purpose so figured I'd keep something original in the boat from her glory days as a working girl. If I don't hang it in the boat, when I make the dining table I'll recess the centre so the wheel can fit in there and place a glass top on it. Either way she'll be in AXE.

So now I have the original keel and the original steering wheel hahaha. So much for keeping it as a Randell 35. When she's finished she'll be a Hendo 38.

I finished off making the epoxy backing block for the through hull. Bit chunky but came out ok. Won't look as chunky when she's in the boat and epoxied and filleted to the hull.

Cheers
Hendo.

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I notice fewer wood working pictures and more shiny bling pictures. I'll take that as a good sign that things are coming together Matt. Great news about the employment thing too.:thumb:
 
I notice fewer wood working pictures and more shiny bling pictures. I'll take that as a good sign that things are coming together Matt. Great news about the employment thing too.:thumb:

Lol been raining a fair bit and can't work outside on AXE so been doing other items to keep the ball rolling.

Yeah pretty stoked about the new job and working for a major player in the fuel refinery industry :).

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Got a call from the sandblasters to say my things are ready

I got my rudder, rudder post, prop and drive shaft brace thingy and the original steering wheel done.


Unless you plan to polish the underwater parts, I recommend that you paint them with Propspeed. Sandblasting left them with a rough surface that creates drag and will have a very negative effect on your prop in particular.

The prop should have gone to a prop shop for "tuning" and polishing.
 
Unless you plan to polish the underwater parts, I recommend that you paint them with Propspeed. Sandblasting left them with a rough surface that creates drag and will have a very negative effect on your prop in particular.

The prop should have gone to a prop shop for "tuning" and polishing.

Hey Rick!
Thanks for your comment.

I was planning on getting them coated with PS.

I was quite surprised as i didn't think that the sandblasting would have been so rough. Never had anything blasted before.

Probably wasted my money on this exercise but oh well, nothing that can't be fixed. It's all part of this learning curve called the AXE :-D

Do you think i should get it all polished first or will this surface be ok for PS ?

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Generally speaking, a light sandblasting provides a good "tooth" for paint adhesion but even PS doesn't stick forever. I would go ahead and try it though before investing in the cost of polishing the other bits.

That advice comes with a caveat though, paint the prop only if it is in good condition and you have no reason to suspect any irregularity in the pitch and if there is no damage. If there is any doubt then send it to a shop now because that is where it will go if you get poor performance and/or a lot of vibration.

That is why sending an unknown prop to a shop for measurement and adjustment followed by polishing is the best approach. If it were mine and I didn't mind spending the time and money, I would consider it a lesson learned and send it to a prop shop for their evaluation. Make friends with a good prop shop, they will be very handy in the future.
 
Generally speaking, a light sandblasting provides a good "tooth" for paint adhesion but even PS doesn't stick forever. I would go ahead and try it though before investing in the cost of polishing the other bits.

That advice comes with a caveat though, paint the prop only if it is in good condition and you have no reason to suspect any irregularity in the pitch and if there is no damage. If there is any doubt then send it to a shop now because that is where it will go if you get poor performance and/or a lot of vibration.

That is why sending an unknown prop to a shop for measurement and adjustment followed by polishing is the best approach. If it were mine and I didn't mind spending the time and money, I would consider it a lesson learned and send it to a prop shop for their evaluation. Make friends with a good prop shop, they will be very handy in the future.

Thanks for your guidance Rick. I've actually made a friend and spent a bit of money at M&J engineering in O'Connor, recently. They specialise in prop balancing etc so will take it to them to balance and polish.

Do you think the rudder needs to be polished or is that not so critical and be ok to PS as is?

Thanks again for your help and guidance mate!

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Do you think the rudder needs to be polished or is that not so critical and be ok to PS as is?

I wouldn't bother with the rudder, just paint it with a good primer and bottom paint. Same for the rest of the running gear.

I have seen boats that used PS on all the running gear but I am not sure it is worthwhile ... I mean, where do you stop? The prop is what is critical.
 
I wouldn't bother with the rudder, just paint it with a good primer and bottom paint. Same for the rest of the running gear.

I have seen boats that used PS on all the running gear but I am not sure it is worthwhile ... I mean, where do you stop? The prop is what is critical.

dropped the prop off this morning. M&J are going to do an MRI scan on it then work out from there what she needs. They mentioned something about dynamic balancing and static balancing but will call once the MRI is done and find out what the prop is doing first before going any further.

Once the blades are all sorted and balanced they are going to polish it. I saw one from a ship that was 2mtrs wide. This thing was fookin huge! They said the polishing pattern on that one will be the same as mine. Looks cool!

Thanks again for letting me know Rick. The boys at M&J really opened my eyes when it came to running gear.

I didn't think it was that bad till you said something yesterday and then when I took it to M&J I was really blown away by how critical the prop condition is etc so Thanks again mate!

Hendo :)

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I wouldn't bother with the rudder, just paint it with a good primer and bottom paint. Same for the rest of the running gear.

I have seen boats that used PS on all the running gear but I am not sure it is worthwhile ... I mean, where do you stop? The prop is what is critical.

On this subject, Rick, when I had my boat anti fouled etc last time, I went for Micron Extra hull, and Propspeed, and they, like you advised not to bother with it on the rudder, just the prop. It comes out soon, after nearly 3 yrs. It will be interesting to see the relative states of the prop versus the rudder. If there is a significant difference, that might induce me to have it put on both next time. We'll see.
 
I wouldn't bother with the rudder, just paint it with a good primer and bottom paint.

In relation to primer. Do you mean like an enamel primer for commercial use or a marine type primer that I will use on the hull before anti-fouling?

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On this subject, Rick, when I had my boat anti fouled etc last time, I went for Micron Extra hull, and Propspeed, and they, like you advised not to bother with it on the rudder, just the prop. It comes out soon, after nearly 3 yrs. It will be interesting to see the relative states of the prop versus the rudder. If there is a significant difference, that might induce me to have it put on both next time. We'll see.

Ooooo please do keep me informed. Would love to see how the PS stood up.

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And the weather keeps on keeping on ...

Good thing AXE is on land lol

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