Head overhaul

Bilgewater · Apr 25, 2013

Just got back from 5 days at the boat. I feel that there are too many through-hull fittings on my boat (9) and want to eliminate some. I started with the head in the stateroom. I'm going with a RV style head using gravity and fresh water flush. Pulled the old electric head without difficulty. Got the hoses off with the help of a heat gun. Pulled the holding tank which is located between the bunks. Found it to be aluminum, and the bottom was rotted out in numerous places.

Sure glad we didn't use it! Spent 6 hours removing the seacock from under the port bunk. Had to work from a little access hatch under the bunk, and through the area of the lower drawer. What a PITA. :banghead:

Had to cut the jamb plate away to free the fitting. All brass, vintage 1973 gate valve. Upside to the ordeal is that I got $22.00 for the parts at a recycling place. Don't even want the figure the hourly rate that comes out to. :hide:

I'll plug and glass the hole next trip to the boat, when it warms up a bit.

Gulfstar 36 · Apr 28, 2013

No more gates on my boat. Sometime over the past few years the PO had them all replaced with Apollos. I'm keeping mine for the aft head in place for now. If it turns out we don't like the Natures Head I still have them.

Billylll · Apr 20, 2014

I have plans to upgrade my rear head. I will be using a Raritan Marine Elegance a fresh water 12VDC low volume head, I am looking to install a Poly holding tank between 45 to 50 gallons, the holding tank will either be pumped out at the deck or I am installing a Raritan PuraSan Hold-N-Treat system. I have used the same system above for the last 6 years on my Mainship with excellent results and no odors. The forward head will be converted into a utility room where I'll be installing a Splendid washer/ dryer combo vented model. I have a Spectra Water maker that will be installed for supplying all the water needed when I am not at the docks.
Billylll

FlyWright · Apr 20, 2014

You're not wasting any time, are you Billy? My buddy just put in 2 Raritan Marine Elegance heads and the Purasan system. He added a 15 gal holding tank, just in case. Great system....quiet and simple for anyone to operate.

I bet you'll be reserving part of that utility room for your Telco switching panels, routers and network gear and backup UPS power! I can't wait to see how you upgrade that boat.

dhmeissner · Apr 21, 2014

I going through this now myself, such fun! I am having 3 sea-cocks removed and the holes glassed. They are circa 1974 bronze, not sure of the make yet. I intend to rebuild them and hang on to them. They are the tapered kind.

HopCar · Apr 21, 2014

I'm really surprised to keep hearing of boats with gate valves instead of real seacocks.

I thought they had all been changed out back in the 70's. I must have seen at least a hundred of the darn things with their stems eaten away. I'd don't worry about thru-hull connections as long as they have a good flanged seacock.

BillyIII, This is a good place to buy holding tanks.
http://ronco-plastics.com/newRonco/ProductCatalogs/Marine2013-2014.pdf
The tanks have heavy walls and they will put the fittings where ever you want them.
They offer about 500 different sizes and shapes.

I also know a great place to buy Raritan products, but I can't tell you.

Billylll · Apr 21, 2014

Hopcar that's were I bought my new freshwater and holding tanks for my Mainship from RONCO. They have a nice selection, their priced right and after 5 years my Holding tank has no permeated odors. I have heard some of the cheaper holding tanks permeate within a few years, that hasn't been the case with my 36 gallon waste/ holding tank in my Mainship.
Billylll

rwidman · Apr 21, 2014

Bilgewater said:
Just got back from 5 days at the boat. I feel that there are too many through-hull fittings on my boat (9) and want to eliminate some. I started with the head in the stateroom. I'm going with a RV style head using gravity and fresh water flush. Pulled the old electric head without difficulty. Got the hoses off with the help of a heat gun. Pulled the holding tank which is located between the bunks. Found it to be aluminum, and the bottom was rotted out in numerous places. Sure glad we didn't use it! Spent 6 hours removing the seacock from under the port bunk. Had to work from a little access hatch under the bunk, and through the area of the lower drawer. What a PITA. Had to cut the jamb plate away to free the fitting. All brass, vintage 1973 gate valve. Upside to the ordeal is that I got $22.00 for the parts at a recycling place. Don't even want the figure the hourly rate that comes out to. I'll plug and glass the hole next trip to the boat, when it warms up a bit.

Brass fittings (and valves) should never be used with saltwater. You're luck the boat didn't sink.

You don't need a thru hull for each use, you can use a manifold.

I've read that you shouldn't just plug a hole, you have to grind a large area and taper it for a good bond. I'm not a fiberglass expert by any means but I recommend checking on this. Something about a secondary bond not being very strong.

It would be easier to leave the thru hulls in place and cap them off on the inside.

Billylll · Apr 21, 2014

Good points Ron I'm no fiberglass expert either. But I have heard the same thing about tapering when filling holes below the waterline.
Billylll

mbevins · Apr 21, 2014

I personally think that you're better to leave them in and just cap them off. I know of a boat that had a hole repaired below the WL. She came off of a big wave landed flat on the hole repair, the water pressure punched it back into the boat and she sank right quickly as the owner couldn't get to to the hole fast enough.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Trawler

psneeld · Apr 21, 2014

fill'em in...piece of cake....but taper

Head overhaul

Bilgewater

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Gulfstar 36

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Billylll

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FlyWright

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dhmeissner

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