Macerator Question

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Tony B

Guru
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
1,251
Location
Cruising/Live-Aboard USA
Vessel Name
Serenity
Vessel Make
Mainship 36 Dual Cabin -1986
My forward macerator for the head is not working properly.
When I flip the switch, sometimes I have to wait about 10 – 20 seconds for it to start up. The motor turns very slow for a while then it will kick up to speed – most of the time. Some times I have to ‘jump start’ it using a cordless screwdriver. I changed the impeller which actually looked like new and did not see anything blocking it like hair or string. It is doing the same thing with the new impeller kit.
It is a 12V Jabsco. I did not check the voltage under load yet. Is there some kind of grease or lubrication area that I overlooked?
Could the motor just be worn out?
 
First thing, I would check the voltage under load, that is when you first turn the switch on. Test right at the splice points where the wires connect.

The symptoms sound a lot like low voltage. If you keep using it like this, you could burn the motor out.
 
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My forward macerator for the head is not working properly.

I replaced a macerator pump twice. Both timed it failed in a manner similar to yours. Then I replaced it with a Sealand T-Type pump. No failures in 6 years. Replacing black water pumps is a, ahem, shitty job, and the extra cost for the Sealand pump is a small price to pay.

Amazon.com: SeaLand T-Series Sanipump Discharge and Macerator Pump with Whisper Quiet Motor T12 12V: Sports & Outdoors

Scott Welch
Island Eagle
 
Tony: I've never particularly liked the Jabsco Macerators for one of the problems you're having. There are cheap but don't seem to last. If you can get it working, great, but if you have to replace it, try a Seland T Series Waste Discharge Pump. They can run dry for extended periods and are unaffected by feminine hygiene products. It will last for years. On 2 different boats, over 15 year period, we have never had one fail or need servce.
 
Sound like you need to replace the motor/macerator. In 16 years had to replace the motor twice. If you don’t use very often might want to take a hammer and tap the out side of the motor. I have to that for the mast/boom winch motors. You could also have the motor rebuilt at a local motor repair shop. West marine sell motor for about 150 bucks. f you flush the toilet with Clorox, rinse and wet vac out the toilet, its not very messy smelly. Its 4 bolts, take a couple of minutes. For the cost of one Sealand you can replace motor twice.
 
We have Jabsco macerator pumps to pump our holding tanks overboard (where it's legal). I replumbed the aft system, the one that gets used the most, so I can pour fresh water into the plumbing to the pump and run it through. So after using the pump I run a bucket of fresh water through the pump and overboard. I don't know if this really makes any difference but our pumps last about six or seven years where other people we know who have the same pump only get two or three years out of them.

But previous posters are right--- if you have the space and plumbing configuration to install a good diaphragm pump, that is a far better setup than a flexible impeller pump for waste.
 
It would be foolish to replace the pump without first making sure it has adequate electrical power to operate. That's troubleshooting 101.

BTW: My boat has a Jabsco or one that looks just like it. I have no reason not to believe it's original to the boat (yr 2000), but I've had the boat since 2008 and my macerator pump is working just fine.
 
It would be foolish to replace the pump without first making sure it has adequate electrical power to operate. That's troubleshooting 101..
:iagree: My boat was splashed in Oct- 2004 (2005 model) and the jabsco woks just fine with little to no maintenance.:dance:
 
It would be foolish to replace the pump without first making sure it has adequate electrical power to operate. That's troubleshooting 101..
:iagree: My boat was splashed in Oct- 2004 (2005 model) and the Jabsco works just fine with little to no maintenance.:dance:
 
Sounds like voltage.

A little tip is the extended warranties they always try to sell us but are a huge money maker for them. When you buy a pump at WM buy the warranty! The warranty even covers replacing the impellers. You will get your money back. If you use your boat then the pumps/impellers will fail in the three years the warranty covers.
 
You might consider a replacement that is a few steps up on the quality (and of course co$t) .

Obendorfer has such units as does Galley Maid. , under a boat buck.

Weather its worth the buck$ a decade before you revisit the poop pump is a personal choice
 
I'd follow Ron's recomendation to check the voltage first. If the pump has power, then it's likely that the motor is going. The Jabsco 18590-2092 sells for less than $140.00. I'd just replace the whole thing rather than try to change the motor.

The suggestions to upgrade to a diaphram pump are good as well. Just takes money.
 
Hey guys...he's asking about a macerating toilet pump, not an overboard discharge macerator pump.

(I've retired from online participation...I've GOTTA stop lurking!)
 
I'm glad you're here! I give you a thought every now and then. The forum just feels complete when you lend a hand!
 
I'm glad you're here! I give you a thought every now and then. The forum just feels complete when you lend a hand!

Yes, one of the most important services in a civilised society is good waste management, and I mean that in the nicest possible way.
 
Hey guys...he's asking about a macerating toilet pump, not an overboard discharge macerator pump.

(I've retired from online participation...I've GOTTA stop lurking!)

Hey Peggy, glad you are here. Is it alright to use vinegar or Oderless in the system with a hold and treat Purasan?
 
Yes. Distilled white vinegar works best...and the product is called Odorlos. You can safely combine them. RV supply store prices are typically a lot lower than marine sources.

Bye, y'all...:)
 
Yes. Distilled white vinegar works best...and the product is called Odorlos. You can safely combine them. RV supply store prices are typically a lot lower than marine sources.

Bye, y'all...:)

Thanks Peggie. We miss you.:flowers:
 
Hi Peggie! Nice to see you. If you're correct and he is talking about the macerator in his toilet, this might be a good time for him to up grade to a Raritan Sea Era conversion kit.
 
After re-reading the OP's complaint 3 or 4 more times, I'm no longer sure now that he IS talking about the toilet pump. But why would he refer to a macerator for a HEAD if he was referring to the dump pump for a tank?

Whichever it is, low voltage to it is a pretty good guess for the source of his problem.
 
After re-reading the OP's complaint 3 or 4 more times, I'm no longer sure now that he IS talking about the toilet pump. But why would he refer to a macerator for a HEAD if he was referring to the dump pump for a tank?

Whichever it is, low voltage to it is a pretty good guess for the source of his problem.

Many times people use the wrong words when talking about subjects they don't understand. It seriously contributes to the lack off communication found on these boards, but what can you do? We would hope the OP would come back and answer any questions, but very often, they don't.
 
Peggie, good to see you here again!
 
I have a pair of Par macerating heads, they are original to the boat built in December of 1986. They are very noisy but work very well. A replacement motor assembly includes everything so you remove the motor & pump assembly as a unit & replace. The cost is $207.00 thru the marina, being a liveaboard 8 - 9 months a year I'am going to add one to my spares this year for that time I push the button & nothing happens.
 
My boat has a SeaLand T-Series Sanipump Discharge and Macerator Pump T12 12V. It has now died. I have a Jabasco Macerator Pump that I have had from another boat. Does anyone know if it is OK to switch the Bellows operated Sealand pump to a Jabasco pump? Thanks, Frank
 
Hi Fberke...I see you've just joined our merry band today...welcome aboard!

I'm guessing the two pumps are on separate tanks..at least I hope so 'cuz I've never heard of using both to dump the same tank.

You can replace the T-Pump with a Jabsco macerator pump, but unlike the T-pump which is 1.5" in AND out, the macerator pump is 1.5" in but only 1" out...so you'll need a reducing adapter at both the macerator pump outlet and the thru-hull.

T-Pumps are exceptionally durable...I had one on one of my own boats that was 11 years old and still going strong when I sold the boat. So depending on what's wrong with it, it may be salvageable for a reasonable cost.

--Peggie
 
I replaced a macerator pump twice. Both timed it failed in a manner similar to yours. Then I replaced it with a Sealand T-Type pump. No failures in 6 years. Replacing black water pumps is a, ahem, shitty job, and the extra cost for the Sealand pump is a small price to pay.

Amazon.com: SeaLand T-Series Sanipump Discharge and Macerator Pump with Whisper Quiet Motor T12 12V: Sports & Outdoors

Scott Welch
Island Eagle


It looks just like a vacuflush pump, where is the macerator function?
 
The T-Pump doesn't macerate, it does what the now retired president of Sealand Technology called "musherate." Neither maceration or "musheration" is necessary 'cuz solids--which are 75% water--and TP dissolve pretty quickly in the tank. The T-Pump does take longer to dump the tank than a macerator pump.

And btw...There are only two differences between a T-Pump and an S-pump (vacuum pump): the T-Pump needs only 2 duckbill valves, the S-Pump needs 4...and the price. The T-Pump's price is half that of the S-Pump. SeaLand reverse-threaded the valve nipples to make it impossible to just add one more each end of it.

I used to advise our customers who needed a new S-Pump to go with a T-Pump instead ...they might have to replace the duckbills a bit more often, but the extra two in the S-Pump are only there for redundancy anyway.

--Peggie
 
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