Snubber Preferences

a little bit off topic what do you guys favor as a hook for your snuber ?

motion30 said:

a little bit off topic what do you guys favor as a hook for your snuber ?

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"Chain Grabber" made by ABI (ABI#: 270077)

Broke off into separate thread

We use one of these.

Sea-Dog Line 321850-1 | Fisheries Supply

I have looked at that one Is that stamped ss? How thick is it?

According to the site, the thickness is 5/16". It is quite robust and seems completely adequate for the task.

Thank you , I have seen different pictures online some look stamped others look forged ABI and sea dog seem to be related

That style seems to be much better balanced with even pull on the chain line vs a single line hook

I use a standard galvanized grab hook mainly because I prefer a single line snubber.

We use the same chain grab as Rusty. The plate is plenty strong and we much prefer using a bridle snubber instead of the single-line snubber we used to us. The bridle helps reduce yawing at anchor a bit. But not as effectively as a stern anchor if yawing is an issue.

Our snubber bridle lines are 1/2" nylon and long enough to let the chain grab and chain down about 12-15 feet underwater. This lowers the pull on the anchor. We also let a loop of chain down between the grab and the pulpit roller that hangs down even farther than the chain grab. The loop keeps the chain securely in the chaine grab slot and its weight also helps lower the angle of pull on the anchor.

This seems to be a pretty typical setup for people up here who use bridle snubbers.

I like the bridle snubber also. I made this one with 30 feet of 5/8" on each side. We usually tie with 15-20 feet of it out to the anchor chain.

Snubbers (Rocna Knowledge Base)

Rope

Snubber tied to chain with rolling hitch plus loose clove hitch (or two) to secure the working end.



Snubber led over port roller next to chain. Note the chafe protection in use.


Rope snubbers are just a length of nylon which takes the load off the chain. Enough slack should be in the chain that the rope can properly stretch (do not underestimate this).
Manually tying the line to the chain with a rolling hitch is suggested as a preferable alternative to a chain hook. This does not stress the chain as much as a hook can. A rolling hitch, which retains most of the strength of the rope, takes a little longer to attach and remove, but does not wear the chain and tends to spread the load over multiple links of chain. Tie the rolling hitch around the exterior of a link of chain, then secure the working end with one or two clove hitches further down the chain. The clove hitches have no need to be tightened

I can certainly see why you guys with all chain rode want the help of a snubber, but after having one for years, and considering the water I'm in, not to mention the lack of noise from the anchor roller & all the weight I'm no longer carrying, I've gone to 20' of 3/8" BBB chain + 160 feet of nylon line. No noise, quieter deploying and retrieving & automatic shock absorbing to boot! I think that Eric (Manyboats) shamed me into doing this years ago.

That's some nice looking anchor porn Walt

I really like the samson post

I have used a std galvanized grab hook on a 1/2'' line vee bridle for years. I recently bought a Mantus chain hook which I rigged on the same bridle instead of the hook. I have only used it twice the first time it was off when I retrived the anchor, the second time it worked fine. I believe I probably did not hook it on properly the first time.
It looks good and very sturdy. I think it will be fine. if not I will surely advise here.
Here is their video link

Walt---- Because of the way we use our snubber with the long slack loop of chain hanging down between the bow roller and the chain grab on the end of the snubber bridle the chain never moves at all in the bow roller because there is no force on it to move it. All the pressure of the boat against the all-chain rode and the anchor is carried by the snubber lines which are cleated off to our heavy bow cleats. Between the windlass wildcat and the snubber chain grab the anchor chain just sits/hangs there with no movement whatsoever no matter how the boat may be moving around or how much pressure is being put on the anchor and rode.

Users might also view "Chain Hook WITH tripline-point" thread which ran in March.

Marin said:

Walt---- Because of the way we use our snubber with the long slack loop of chain hanging down between the bow roller and the chain grab on the end of the snubber bridle the chain never moves at all in the bow roller because there is no force on it to move it.

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I use to do it that way on my 48' Offshore (Actually it was a Crealock hull #1) Offshore bought the company and the plans after my boat was made.) All I'm saying is that with a small boat, I've found that an all chain rode (in this area) is a PITA. We don't have corral and rocks that you guys have to deal with up there.

I appreciate the benefits of a combination rode. But for a boat like ours (or perhaps any boat where weight in the bow is not an issue and one has a windlass that can handle it and a locker that can accomodate it) I think all-chain is the best way to go, rocks or no rocks.

The only operational disadvantage I can see is if one is likely to be caught in really strong winds that will take the catenary completely out of the chain. We do not anticipate being in situations like that so it's not a consideration for us.

But in a smaller planing or semi-planing boat that is typically run pretty fast a decent length of all-chain rode could present a weight and balance problem for sure. Again, not a consideration with our boat. The more weight you put in it the better it rides.

120 ft of 5/16 galv G4 chain and 240 ft of 5/8 8 ply Brait.

No snubber needed when anchoring on Brait rode secured to fwd cleat or sampson post.

When anchoring with all chain in 25 ft or less, I use the Shockles snubber on a 12 ft line with a SS carabiner on the chain. This works well to reduce shock without allowing the clip to fall off during tidal shifts.

To those concerned about the strength of the components, they are more than adequate for the shock absorption while the chain remains the main load carrying component for full tension loads. It's easy to install, easy to remove and has performed flawlessly for us.

If you look close at my avatar painting, it shows the snubber in place off the pulpit with slack in the chain. As the Shockle extends to its maximum length, the chain takes up the tension load.

To answer the original question, we use a snap shackle to connect to the chain, and then let out enough chain/snubber so that the chain has about 2' of slack above the waterline; the snubber line never gets wet. Works for us, as the intent is strictly to eliminate noise. (This is a single line set-up, not a bridle.)

On our previous boat we had 150' chain, 250' line, which required a combo chain/line wildcat. We opted for a Maxwell Hrc -10/8 which would handle both, and it worked well, although to be honest I was more comfortable if we didn't get to the line part, as I liked using the snubber to take the strain off the windlass. Once we had the line on the windlass, our setup didn't lend itself readily to taking the strain off the windlass.

On our current boat we are replacing the all chain (very corroded) with chain again, and will use the same snubber system at anchor. The snap shackle setup also allows us to secure the anchor when it is stowed.

I used this through hurricane Sandy.

FlyWright said:

If you look close at my avatar painting,......

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Al: I never even considered your avatar is a painting! Now, I'm really impressed but not with your and Marin's snubbers.

Marin wrote;

"The only operational disadvantage I can see is if one is likely to be caught in really strong winds that will take the catenary completely out of the chain. We do not anticipate being in situations like that so it's not a consideration for us."

Looks to me like you should be concerned about that Marin because the only time you'll need shock absorption is when the catenary is pulled out of the chain. You're right in that the catenary will provide shock absorption when you have catenary but unless you have very under sized ground tackle (and I know you have over sized) you won't even need shock absorption until your catenary is gone .... and of course you won't have any then.

But as you say you're going to be lucky enough to not need shock absorption.

Daddyo said:

I used this through hurricane Sandy.

View attachment 18087

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I use a stainless version of the same type of chain hook. Works well, easy to deploy and retrieve. In fact if placed open jaw up on deployment it usually drops off itself when chain retrieved, which can be useful in an urgent up-anchor situation, but won't budge while some tension on it.

Peter B said:

I use a stainless version of the same type of chain hook. Works well, easy to deploy and retrieve. In fact if placed open jaw up on deployment it usually drops off itself when chain retrieved, which can be useful in an urgent up-anchor situation, but won't budge while some tension on it.

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Bingo! Often falls right off when I bring it up over my bow roller. Works for me and let's say it has proven itself.

manyboats said:

You're right in that the catenary will provide shock absorption when you have catenary but unless you have very under sized ground tackle (and I know you have over sized) you won't even need shock absorption until your catenary is gone .... and of course you won't have any then..

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We have plenty of normal shock absorbtion with the snubber. If the winds and waves are enough to take the catenary completely out of the chain to the point where it's bar tight the snubber bridle will have long since broken.

But as I say we do not anticipate that ever happening here as there are too many close-by protected places to get into in these waters if the wind's going to be that strong.

Rusty stole my design, or I stole his. A carbon copy for entire setup. SS for All metal pieces.

Taking in the snubber:

"I made this one with 30 feet of 5/8" on each side."

Considering it takes 10% to 15% of the breaking strength to stretch nylon , what purpose do (2) -5/8 lines serve?

For a smooth ride 1/4 or 5/16 or even 3/8 might be a smoother , softer choice.