What do you use for Generating AC/DC

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My problem boils down to recharging my battery bank. Either I get a generator, or it's solar. An alternate to that is larger alternators but running the mains is least efficient unless I am fishing or moving the boat.

I won't do wind. It transmits vibrations throughout the boat. Those magnetic motors that are supposed to be free energy are a hoax. I did see where a guy took an electric motor belted to a generator that he had boosted the power and after getting it running with AC, turned off the power to it and on the generator, he was able to keep it running plus some extra amps that ran a hand tool and a light.
 
Living and boating in the South with hot humid nights, I want a generator for the AC to sleep with some comfort. Even if you removed this factor, I would still want a generator because if something goes wrong with the battery bank and you keep the generator on a separate battery for the generator only, you can have all the power you want to recharge. I know, from experience.

Although I think it is a little loud, my generator is 1981 Westerbeke 4.4 KW unit which runs on a two cylinder Mitsubishi motor which is also discontinued. This generator was not running when I bought the boat. My very talented generator mechanic made this unit run extremely well and was able to find the parts.

Do not give up too easily on what you already have.
 
I read you loud and clear. I do plan on a Mexico cruise and AC is probably a must. My problem with the engine now is I tossed the head and valve train. I will have to buy another engine.
 
SeaHorse, how many amps is your charger? .
I went to the boat today, looked for the manuals and couldn't find any. Also climbed (fell) down in the ER and couldn't see any mention of amps on the placards. So, the answer to your question is "I don't know." I do intend to find out, Though!
 
Speaking of battery chargers. I decided to install a single use inverter and separate charger, not a combo. I'm glad I did on that fact the inverter has gone back for replacement three times, two were their mistake. The battery charger has never failed me.

My problem with my charger is it's only a 40 amp smart 4 phase charger which is great at the dock, bad slow at anchor. I'm looking for another charger that can charge closer to 100-150 amps. The Xantrex Prosine 2.0 is an option but I have their 1800 inverter.

I need a stand alone charger that is also a smart charger. Anybody know of one?
 
Our US made MSW Magnum 3100W-160A inverter/charger is bullet proof and much cheaper then individual units not to mention you can't find a 160A charger anywhere I believe.
 
I'm another fan of the Honda EU2000i. Have relied on one for years now. Great little generators, compact, quiet, and extremely frugal on fuel consumption. For about the same price as solar, or wind generators, you can have power whenever you need it, even when the sun don't shine and the wind don't blow! And I'm not on the Honda payroll.
 
Maybe a resister with a fan that cools it or something like that. I'm a complete novice here but I do understand electricity and the need for a dump on a solar system.

You don't understand solar well enough. There is no need to "dump" anything. What you do need is a charge controller, preferably one that supports a grid tie connection to your AC system.

Then you use solar to charge and maintain your batteries, and then they can also be used to offset you AC requirements dockside or when on a genset. You're not wanting to be totally solar (off grid), or still dependent on AC when on the hook (grid-tied) but the ideal is an AC system that is augmented by solar and the remainder stored (grid-tied w/batteries).

If you sized your loads properly and got arrays the right size, you could theoretically stay off grid indefinitely (assuming sun) and when dockside you're still offsetting your power costs.
 
Thanks for that explanation, sailor.

I admit it has been a while since I did research on solar and when I last read about it I was reading about large solar arrays for homes off the grid with huge battery banks.

When I talked to the sailboaters here about it they always had that deer in the headlight look. :whistling:
 
My problem with the engine now is I tossed the head and valve train. I will have to buy another engine.

Universal Marine Engines used Kubota engines in their sailboat engine line.

Once you determine the exact engine you have, you may be able to pickup a parts engine cheap.

Torrenson Marine, Supports the Universal engines with online schematics and parts lists and prices. A quick look online gives the price of a new kubota 3 cylinder head at about $2400.

I assume it must have been cracked or warped to have tossed it, I guess a new generator is probably the best fix to your problem.

JohnP
 
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I admit it has been a while since I did research on solar and when I last read about it I was reading about large solar arrays for homes off the grid with huge battery banks.

Some good news is grid-tie inverters (those that tie to your AC system) have REALLY come down in price. There are some that simply plug into an AC jack. They are limited to about 20A but they safely augment existing AC (from wherever on your boat's system... inverter, genset, shore power) and serve to offset the load on that grid.

Great for small systems where don't have huge AC demands, and simply want to stretch your stored energy capacity by offsetting with solar while you have it during the day.
 
The problem with the engine was a cracked fuel line and it had to be primed every time it was started. Even if I shut it down for one second and tried to restart it. I couldn't find it and didn't know what it was. This was the first year of ownership of my boat and the first diesel I had ever owned or known. I was GREEN and I did a stupid thing.

I used starting fluid, ether, and it blew it up. Just like the cartoons. I came out of the engine room with soot everywhere. The outside of the boat looked like I was spraying crops. A huge cloud of white smoke overtook the boat and we couldn't see out of the windows. I got to the key and shut it off.

Looking back at that, it is so funny I crack up telling the story. :rofl::rofl::rofl:

The whole block is toast. The fram oil filter held though. Oil was spewing out of the seal I had so much blow by. I had a mess down below.

I'll have to sell my starting fluid to a crack head I guess. :banghead:

The things we learn the hard way seem to stick with us better. :eek:
 
Wowsers... that's gonna be an expensive fuel line.
 
Speaking of battery chargers.


I decided to install a single use inverter and separate charger, not a combo.



My problem with my charger is it's only a 40 amp smart 4 phase charger which is great at the dock, bad slow at anchor. I'm looking for another charger that can charge closer to 100-150 amps. The Xantrex Prosine 2.0 is an option but I have their 1800 inverter.

I need a stand alone charger that is also a smart charger. Anybody know of one?

I think the same,
my favourite:
Sterling Power Products: ProDigital
He works with 80-300 Volts, 40-70 Hertz,

I am working with Sterling charger many years without problems.
In the caribic Sea you have 110Volt-or 230 Volt; 50 or 60 Hertz- Sterling works with all !
_________________
Norbert
 
I need a stand alone charger that is also a smart charger. Anybody know of one?
I just checked on mine which is a 40 amp charger but this company is well regarded down here and has different models.

DC Power Onboard with Newmar?s Phase Three ?Smart? battery charging technology is now available in a wide range of power levels, allowing you to select the right size, features and flexibility you require for virtually any application from small recr

The factory is in your neighborhood too! (Santa Ana)
 
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How Funny! My old charger was a newmar. It was built like a freight train but was old technology. I didn't know they upgraded to smart chargers.

Thanks and I'll check out Sterling too.
 
I just checked on mine which is a 40 amp charger but this company is well regarded down here and has different models.
)

I second Newmar as does my favorite marine electrician
 
Today in the smaller sizes (8000btu) there are many 12V air cond made for over nighting in large trucks.
 
5,500 W silent diesel generator at Northern Tool - $880.
IMAG0032.jpg
 
I think he tried...but was drowned out by the noise of the "$800" silent diesel genset....:D
 
I have a 5000 or thereabouts northern three cylinder diesel. No complaints except for noise and overkill. I also have a 1500 watt inverter plus a 1000 watt older Honda which has seen me through a houseboat and a remote cabin. The Honda takes a lot of crap but is heavy and still a bit noisy on the hook. The diesel is out of the question. My brother just scooped a refurb Hyundai 1000 inverter type for me at $175.00 It weighs only 28 pounds and is much quieter than the Honda.
I have yet to set this up and try it but between the two it should be enough to run my frig, TV and computer.
 
bobsyiruncle, When you say older Honda, do you mean the EX1000 model that was a bit square before the newer eu1000 and eu2000 models came out? If so, that's a whole different beast than the newer models we've been discussing. They were much louder (64 dB) than the newer eu2000i (59dB max-53dB min RPM). 5dB difference represents about a 50% difference in noise level. (64dB is twice as loud as 54dB.)

Honda ex 1000 generator - YouTube

 
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Yes it is the old model and I can't slag it too much because it has served me well but I did like the relatively quiet and reassuringly cheap part on the Hyundai
 
Wow! Westerbeke and Northern Lights bashed.:nonono: And based on heresay.:nonono:

We've got a Northern Lights 8.5 KW....haven't had a problem with it yet....
 
Why not fab up some brackets and belt drive it off the main engine, very popular in Europe, you can spin it all the time or magnetic clutch, you will nead a hertz meter for the proper rpm. Craig
 
Why not fab up some brackets and belt drive it off the main engine, very popular in Europe, you can spin it all the time or magnetic clutch, you will nead a hertz meter for the proper rpm. Craig

Besides the fact the engine will need to be constantly throttled to keep up with changing loads , running a large diesel engine at almost no load can cost up to 17 !!! times more fuel.

Pro Boat Builder , April May , Nigel Calder.
 
Why not fab up some brackets and belt drive it off the main engine, very popular in Europe, you can spin it all the time or magnetic clutch, you will nead a hertz meter for the proper rpm. Craig

Besides the fact the engine will need to be constantly throttled to keep up with changing loads , running a large diesel engine at almost no load can cost up to 17 !!! times more fuel.

Pro Boat Builder , April May , Nigel Calder.


Nigel is a very sharp guy but... What is considered a large engine? A ford 120 driving a 3.5KW can run a 1 to 1 ratio , it will draw less then 10 HP off the 120, it will self govern from the ford, It would cost very little wile cruising, not much more than a high output DC alt, The fuel cost would have to be balanced out over the cost of running and maintaining a 2nd Diesel for the 3.5 KW, The charge time wile @ anchor for the DC loads will now have AC available, It very often is a lot quieter than a stand alone genset, For the most part the OP said he rarely uses air conditioning which would be one of the few reasons to run the ford stand alone. I know the cost of fuel is high but 17 times more may not fit all scenarios. Craig
 
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