Tools

Northern Spy said:

My general rule is that if I needed to take a tool from my house to the boat for mechanical or electrical maintenance, it stays there, or a similar and suitable replacement is obtained. Carpentry tools, no.

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That's pretty much how my boat tool box got populated as well.

Another thing - While those tool sets in the blow molded plastic boxes look pretty and it's easy to tell if something is missing, they take up a lot of room and there will always be something you need to add (like a universal joint or an extension) and there won't be a place for it.

I just keep similar tools (like sockets or wrenches) in zip lock bags in my tool box. If I need a wrench I just open the appropriate bag and empty it on a flat surface. The zip lock bags also allow me to spray corrosion preventative into them to keep the tools rust free.

Do not buy the cheap tools as they will either break or even worse slip and round out the fastener that has to be released and probably take a knuckle with it. purchase quality brands when on sale.Snapon that is made in China or sold at Cosco is not Snapon, it is junk being branded as Snapon and sold to regular Joes who do not know any better.When we make the move to live aboard my 35 year collection of Snapon tools will come aboard.Donot forget several sets of cheap reading glasses and a magnifing glass.

expat said:

Do not buy the cheap tools as they will either break or even worse slip and round out the fastener that has to be released and probably take a knuckle with it. purchase quality brands when on sale.Snapon that is made in China or sold at Cosco is not Snapon, it is junk being branded as Snapon and sold to regular Joes who do not know any better.When we make the move to live aboard my 35 year collection of Snapon tools will come aboard.Donot forget several sets of cheap reading glasses and a magnifing glass.

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You may want to read post #59, my friend is a "Snap-On" rep, has a truck load of their tools and he is telling me some tools are now being sourced from China and other third world countries. But maybe you know more than one of their reps, and do you think Costco would take a chance of selling knockoffs, don't think so!!!

That sucks.

Greetings,
Well, a cheapo 10mm wrench is loads better than no 10mm wrench and double loads better than vice grips. Whilst I agree "good" tools ARE important, I've found the cheap ones are just fine for 95% of the jobs. The other 5% are best handled with the gold plated ones. Yup, rounded off nut/bolts, skinned knuckles and "salty" language are part and parcel of cheap tools but also come with the expensive ones as well.
OK, speaking of cheap tools, when was the last time you had your galley cutlery professionally sharpened? Those of you with a Global or Wusthoff chef's knife can probably answer that, K-Mart shoppers, probably not. How many of you use a hammer with your wood chisels? WRONG tool or CHEAP chisels.
Tools? It's all perspective.
TWO cheap tools I don't use: vice grips (gotta be Peterson!) and screwdrivers.

We do what Tom does: buy the exact tool we need for a job when it comes up and buy the best quality of tool we can find or afford. We don't care where it's made-- China makes stuff that is as good as stuff made in Germany or Canada or the US. (They also make crap but so do we.)

RT Firefly said:

Greetings,
Well, a cheapo 10mm wrench is loads better than no 10mm wrench and double loads better than vice grips. Whilst I agree "good" tools ARE important, I've found the cheap ones are just fine for 95% of the jobs. The other 5% are best handled with the gold plated ones. Yup, rounded off nut/bolts, skinned knuckles and "salty" language are part and parcel of cheap tools but also come with the expensive ones as well.
OK, speaking of cheap tools, when was the last time you had your galley cutlery professionally sharpened? Those of you with a Global or Wusthoff chef's knife can probably answer that, K-Mart shoppers, probably not. How many of you use a hammer with your wood chisels? WRONG tool or CHEAP chisels.
Tools? It's all perspective.
TWO cheap tools I don't use: vice grips (gotta be Peterson!) and screwdrivers.

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I'm with you RT...

For me it's all the odd ball tools that you only use occasionally....even once a year would be amazing for things like some stubbies, ofset boxes, claw foots etc...etc.

For your basic 300 piece wrench and ratchet set...yeah go at least with something that is medium to better...especially if you do a LOT of self wrenching. But for the oddball stuff it's harbor freight or equal. I'd rather have a boatload of specialty tools that I can afford and will still get the job done if you are carefull...than be sitting there dead in the water with my $5K Snapon set wishing I had one of "those thingies".

If there's a particualr tool I would be using on the boat on a regular basis...then sure...a nice high quality tool might be in order...

I feel for the fulltime mechs that buy and "pay interest on" high end tools that wind up over the side, lost in the blge, etc...etc.

My 350 piece set of Home Depot Husky tools served me well in over 10 years as a marine tech...side by side with the guys who buy the best.

If I was a full time wrench turner...I would probably think differently...at least a little.

I love Snapon tools but I can't/won't afford them. I keep telling myself that snapon tools don't FLOAT any better than craftsman tools

One thing to keep in mind is that companies sell to different market segments. A company might have a "consumer grade" and a "professional grade". So a company may shave some cost off and sell to everyone at a lower price in the outlet stores, and re-brand a higher-grade (better, more expensive alloys) in a professionally oriented store like a farm-supply/construction supply store.

One is obviously for the weekend warrior and garage peg-board decorator, the other is for the person who depends on his tools to make his living and pay his mortgage (and write them off to the IRS as business deductions).

Different cost criteria to different market segments.

If it were only true that Snapon or any other high end tool did the job significantly better...then there's little to discuss.

I'll be the first to admit that yes in some cases...no in other cases....that top end tools are necessary.

This being a recreational boating forum...many of us already have/know what we want...for the others/newbies..they will have to decide.

After 50 years of wrench turning on my own boats and hundreds of others...I've either fixed it with my own tools or had to have a pro do it because it was something I'd never seen/repaired before...it was never a question of the tool not doing it's job.

I've seen Snapons break along with Craftsman, Husky...whatever. Again I'll admit some of the more expensive tools are often a dream to work with...but a part timer or amatuer just can't justify the cost.

If you have money to spare...wow...and have spent all of it on OTHER things the boat should have and still have some to spend on top end tools...well let's just say I'm jealous!

psneeld said:

I've seen Snapons break along with Craftsman, Husky...whatever.

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To me, it's not always about strength, it's about fit. some 13mm wrenches fit better that others. When they fit around a fastener properly, less effort is needed and being sure you won't round off a bolt is a huge plus. Yes, I have some cheap tools too, but I splurged for a decent socket and screwdriver set.

Tom.B said:

To me, it's not always about strength, it's about fit. some 13mm wrenches fit better that others. When they fit around a fastener properly, less effort is needed and being sure you won't round off a bolt is a huge plus. Yes, I have some cheap tools too, but I splurged for a decent socket and screwdriver set.

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Can't argue with that...and sometimes the cheap tools fit the cheap fasteners being used these days....

RT Firefly said:

Greetings,
Well, a cheapo 10mm wrench is loads better than no 10mm wrench and double loads better than vice grips. Whilst I agree "good" tools ARE important, I've found the cheap ones are just fine for 95% of the jobs. The other 5% are best handled with the gold plated ones. Yup, rounded off nut/bolts, skinned knuckles and "salty" language are part and parcel of cheap tools but also come with the expensive ones as well.
OK, speaking of cheap tools, when was the last time you had your galley cutlery professionally sharpened? Those of you with a Global or Wusthoff chef's knife can probably answer that, K-Mart shoppers, probably not. How many of you use a hammer with your wood chisels? WRONG tool or CHEAP chisels.
Tools? It's all perspective.
TWO cheap tools I don't use: vice grips (gotta be Peterson!) and screwdrivers.

Click to expand...

This has worked for me.

Ben said:

One thing to keep in mind is that companies sell to different market segments. A company might have a "consumer grade" and a "professional grade". So a company may shave some cost off and sell to everyone at a lower price in the outlet stores, and re-brand a higher-grade (better, more expensive alloys) in a professionally oriented store like a farm-supply/construction supply store.

One is obviously for the weekend warrior and garage peg-board decorator, the other is for the person who depends on his tools to make his living and pay his mortgage (and write them off to the IRS as business deductions).

Different cost criteria to different market segments.

Click to expand...

Oddly enough, Kmart actually had two grades of tools. The pro grade has served me well when I had to go metric.

Snap-on is beautiful but when they break they are a PITA about replacing them.

No questions asked when replacing a Sears Craftsman hand tool.

Thank you all for your advice and help. I have learned a lot by reading your responses and now I have come up with more questions too. Lol. I think I will take a diesel repair classes and some basic electrical classes also over the next couple of years. I am also getting a couple of books I have seen on line to help trouble shoot and repair some of the things that may come up. Thank you all again for your advice.

rwidman said:

Actually examining the product and relying on expert advice is a better way to select quality products.

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What???!!!

You mean reading my dogs paw tracks is NOT the best way???

You must be joking!

Let's stay on topic, please gentlemen, and keep politics out of this.

Thanks.

Grashopper: A journey of a thousand miles begins with but a single step.

Good thread. Let me add a few. A optical digital tach (cheap chinese), an IR digital thermometer (cheap chinese), a couple old, large, good quality monkey wrenches for stuffing boxes, a decent set of flair nut wrenches for fuel lines. a large 16~18" set of channel locks, a set of english and metric 'spin tights' (socket head screw drivers) and a hack saw with spare blades. Also special electrical and plumbing tool sets. So much stuff it's hard to believe the boat still floats. I have an ongoing 'dissaggreement' with the admiral as to drawer content. My reasoning, if I use it daily it deserves a drawer. apparently that only makes sense to me.

Capn Craig said:

Good thread. Let me add a few. A optical digital tach (cheap chinese), an IR digital thermometer (cheap chinese), a couple old, large, good quality monkey wrenches for stuffing boxes, a decent set of flair nut wrenches for fuel lines. a large 16~18" set of channel locks, a set of english and metric 'spin tights' (socket head screw drivers) and a hack saw with spare blades. Also special electrical and plumbing tool sets. So much stuff it's hard to believe the boat still floats. I have an ongoing 'dissaggreement' with the admiral as to drawer content. My reasoning, if I use it daily it deserves a drawer. apparently that only makes sense to me.

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good suggestions. Try leaving tools you use a lot on the table, galley counter and other places like that and she will soon give in. Worked for me.

Ben said:

What???!!!

You mean reading my dogs paw tracks is NOT the best way???

You must be joking!

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Can anyone help me with why my clutch is hard to shift? Cable is solid and have hydraulic transfer... Any advise appreciated... Kink maybe??????

OK, I have to cave in and post.

Ford wrenches.

Absolutely Fabulus there lives my Monkey Wrenches.

jaysurfr said:

Can anyone help me with why my clutch is hard to shift? Cable is solid and have hydraulic transfer... Any advise appreciated... Kink maybe??????

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Start by disconnecting the cable from the transmission. This will let you determine if the stiffness is in the cable or transmission. If it's the cable (probably will be) disconnect the cable from the upper control mechanism. See if it's stiff to shift that without a cable attached (probably won't be).

If it's the cable (in all likelihood it will be) then you can try lubricating the cable, but replacing it will not be that expensive.

BTW if you have a flybridge (dual control stations) you have to check each one, and the combiner box.

All in all a fun use of a Sunday morning.

Scott Welch
Island Eagle

IslandEagle said:

Start by disconnecting the cable from the transmission. This will let you determine if the stiffness is in the cable or transmission. If it's the cable (probably will be) disconnect the cable from the upper control mechanism. See if it's stiff to shift that without a cable attached (probably won't be).

If it's the cable (in all likelihood it will be) then you can try lubricating the cable, but replacing it will not be that expensive.

BTW if you have a flybridge (dual control stations) you have to check each one, and the combiner box.

All in all a fun use of a Sunday morning.

Scott Welch
Island Eagle

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Thanks a lot for the info... I will try your suggestions... Where and what is a combiner box? This is my first rodeo with this problem.... I have a 32' GB woody 1969

Thanks for adding the IR thermometer, that should have been on my top ten list, but I spaced out. Got mine at Radio Shack. Has been indispensable when an over heat alarm snesor went bad, etc. When we were cruising, always took it to the ER with me on en-route ER checks, tracked about 7 points including engines, transmissions, stuffing box, alternators, etc. I don't know that I'd call them a "tool" per se, since they are permanent, but also having mechanical gauges in the ER for critical measurements is extremely nice. As are the vacuum gauges on the Racors.

Here are pics of a tool I had made for flush fitting filler caps for oil and water tanks. I left the design to the shipwright/metal fabricator, very happy with the result. The bar is flared at one end so it can`t separate from the plate. Works a treat.

Waterproof grease the deck fill cap threads once or twice a year and you won't need a heavy fitting tool like that.

I like the tool though, nicely done.

BruceK said:

Here are pics of a tool I had made for flush fitting filler caps for oil and water tanks. I left the design to the shipwright/metal fabricator, very happy with the result. The bar is flared at one end so it can`t separate from the plate. Works a treat.

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I would make one change to that tool - a hole for a lanyard to prevent dropping it overboard.

I don't mind too much losing the $2.00 plastic ones, but I suspect the tool pictured cost considerably more than that.

BruceK said:

Here are pics of a tool I had made for flush fitting filler caps for oil and water tanks. I left the design to the shipwright/metal fabricator, very happy with the result. The bar is flared at one end so it can`t separate from the plate. Works a treat.

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Thanks for sharing Bruce, looks to be straightforward. I'll make one up while working on my davits.