Varnish for exterior

I still have more than a quart of Bristol Part A, and two dried up bottles of the hardener. I asked their tech guy about using another urethane hardener...of course he didn't think it would work, but did mention that it contains a portion of the "super glue" chemical...which is why it dries in the bottle if not handled with kid gloves. A very annoying drawback...along with the tiny bubbles that I've sometimes encountered. That said, it's tough stuff. I'm going to experiment with some automotive urethane hardener and a tube of super glue this Spring. Bristol's $25 plus shipping quote for a bottle of Part B struck me as extortion anyway.

JAT said:

Bristol's website is still up...but that doesn't mean much....

Psssst..... Just so you know...if you can't get their tropical reducer...you can use Tom Fabula's "Signature Finish Flow Fluid"......same ingredients....and works.

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I heard that Tom Fabula was producing a finish very similar to Bristol. Do you know if he is, and is it compatible? We have been using the amber color.

Moonstruck said:

I heard that Tom Fabula was producing a finish very similar to Bristol. Do you know if he is, and is it compatible? We have been using the amber color.

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Tom's product is called "Honey Teak".....and I suspect there may be some compatibility.... I painted my topsides with his "Signature Finish" paint.... and then ordered Bristol...the Admiral wanted it.... She wanted to thin it... I had some extra "Flow Fluid" of Tom's and compared the ingredients to Bristols Tropical Reducer (I think that is what its called)...and the ingredients are the same. And it worked well.... But...here is the "Caveat".... I'm not a chemist, so I think it would be best to talk to Tom about the compatibility issue just to be sure. He's not bashful about talking about his products....and he's a nice guy.

Color compatibility? Probably very close....at least from the pictures I've seen.... If its the color you're concerned about...he sells his products by the ounce instead of by the quart or gallon.... So maybe you could buy just a little bit to try and compare...

I happened to talk to one of the ladies here in the marina that does teak varnishing and she uses Bristol.... She said that she heard that owner of Bristol Finish passed away... So it could be that no one is continuing the business.... She said "she heard that" and couldn't confirm it....so who knows?

I ordered another gallon kit of it so I could be sure we could finish our teak!!

I've just stripped everything on my veranda deck....ladder steps, cap rail, transom door frame, intake grilles, etc.. I'm going with Cetol natural teak and Cetol clear over it. I've seen enough examples now, and I'm satisfied that even though it may not be exactly as glossy, the maintenance is so much easier. Inside, I'll stay with varnish.

JAT said:

I ordered another gallon kit of it so I could be sure we could finish our teak!!

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Thanks, got my shipment of Bristol Finish Friday.

I finally figured out what I was looking at. Your picture is up-side down. Looks and sounds like a good tip and I'll try and remember this post is here when I need some teak like wood but mostly we are trying to maintain what we've got. I'd rather work on my cap rails than replace them. Thanks though.

My best results are sanding existing varnish with 220 and then finish with 320 fine sandpaper. Also, the best varnish by far is Pratt & Lambert. Make sure it's the marine varnish

Curt,
Why would P&L be "far" better than Others like McCloskie's, Schooner or Epiphanies?

MVNoPlans said:

I would take it down to bare wood. Tinting the varnish gives a muddy finish over time. .

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In my experience (with furniture and such) tinted varnish or any tinted clear coat gives a muddy finish right away.

If you care, it's best to strip the parts down to bare wood, stain, and then apply the clear coat of your choice.

If you really care, an alcohol or water based dye will provide a nicer look than a pigmented stain. It probably isn't necessary on exterior boat trim though.

Greetings,
I've used P&L UVA spar varnish in the past with very good results. No experience with Mc', Sch'. Had a friend who used the Ep' and wasn't satisfied with adhesion. Pilot error? That being said, Cetol is currently finish of choice.

Experience. Ive tried several brands and been frustrated with the length of time the finish lasted. Discussed it with the maintenance people on the dock and all were unanimous about P&L. I used it last year and it is wearing better than any I've tried. Could also be its a better choice for the Bay are climate.

I second Epifane's wood finish. They make one specifically for teak. Has held up well on my cap rails in New England and for several months in Florida/Bahamas. Probably have about 10 coats on by now, and usually add one extra coat per year.