fiberglass decks??

i removed my teak decks now i have alot of holes from the screws. what would you all recomend; filling the holes and sanding and paint and call it a day? or adding adtional layers of fiberglass ontop of the existing decks.

this is on a '81 albin with molded decks with plywood core. no deck*beams.

thanks

Hiya,
** Well, it all depends on whether or not the coring is in good shape IMHO.* If you've got no rot, I think just filling the holes would be alright although the teak DID add some stiffness to the original build.* Just my $.02.

If you've got no rot, I think just filling the holes would be alright although the teak DID add some stiffness to the original build.

This is true although the teak paint job ( overlay) was an extra and not part of the stock boat.

AS a minimum I would foll the holes with epoxy , and have a heavy friend walk about on the deck as you observe where and how much flexing there is.

if there is flexing in some areas what would you do for those spots? ive been on fiberglass decked boats before that has SOME flexing when you walked on them so how much is too much? not looking for added work time and money for adtional layers of glass that isnt needed.

I think adding 2 layers of glass would be a good idea. It would probably make it easier to get a nice finish once you filled the holes and add some stifness.

fotoman, have you removed you teak?

I have not yet. This will be a Fall project since the decks are still solid and not leaking too much. Unfortunately, I don't have fiberglass underneath. The teak was laid on plywood so I'm looking at a much bigger job than you.

On the bright side I've been taking a class on fiberglass this winter and I now feel a lot more confident about doing the work myself.

ahh i see! well good luck!

When we remove a teak deck and replace it with a painted nonskid we put down a layer of 1 1/2 oz mat and the fair that with bog. This insures that all of the screw holes are sealed. If you fust fill the holes with epoxy you will see some of the through the paint and it is probable that some of them will leak. David

My vessel under the previous owner, had the rotted teak decking removed by a timber boat-building yard, and instead of going to the extreme and unnecessary extent of trying to gouge out all the old dampish core and replacing it, just sealed over it with fibreglass cloth/resin and then a thick layer of treated marine ply, then more fibreglass layers, finally with non-skid finish.. Worked well - no moisture ever came thru (now 10 yrs ago), and still nice and stiff deck.

Your not going to accomplish what you want by just putting some epoxy or resin in the holes and painting over it. The decks will flex and the filled holes will open up and leak again, perhaps not all, but enough to create the same issues you are trying to correct. You will need to either grind down each hole and cover it with a small fiberglass patch, really a pain, or lay at least one layer of glass over the entire areas, a correct solution, and take care not to sand through at the holes. Do you really want to go through all of that work to simply find you still have a problem? Chuck

"or lay at least one layer of glass over the entire areas, a correct solution, "

Good but will require EPOXY resin to actually be worth doing.

I would use 3/4 oz chopped strand MAT as thicker will add cost/ weight but very little in stiffness.

Use epoxy compatible CSM.

I have a hard time beliving that the decks will flex enough to open up the
screw holes. I've read from other boatyards that only fill the holes.

Remember the deck is actually a PLYWOOD deck ,

keeping water out is the only chance of some longevity.

well its a MOLDED FIBERGLASS DECK, i dont belive its the same as capt chucks marine trader. it is cored and my core is in good shape because the teak wasnt leaking MUCH. one spot in the aft trunk.

Why Epoxy and not regular polyester resin?

west epoxy will not shrink

Have you considered Devinicell Not sure of the spelling.*
looks like green celular foam. remindes me of that stuff florists use to stick the flowers in for arrangements.*A 1/4 in sheet and 3/4 oz matt. Super strong and will never absorbe water like plywood. Will give you all the strength you require.
SD

Im not looking for more strength. Just to fill the holes

You can of course do whatever you like with your boat. You did ask for some input and that is what you received. Your decks will flex and the holes will open up if you have a Marine Trader, Albin 43 or a Nordhaven 70. You can jump up and down and see and feel no flexing but it does, different resins react differently to temperature, moisture and you can not exactly match the existing resins and the holes will absolutely open up in time. How do I know this with such certainty? Through 40 years in the marine service industry doing hundreds of fiberglass repairs and more deck repairs than I would like to think about. I have never seen a hole filled in with only resins, it does not matter what kind, that did not open up again in time. I have never seen a hole with some form of cloth or mat over it, open up. So everyone can be an expert and argue over whether it is necessary or not. The truth is it is not necessary, UNLESS you don't ever have to deal with it again. But as individual boat owners we all make the final decisions as to the extent of any repairs or renovations we do and either live happily with the results or deal with the consequences. Chuck

Why Epoxy and not regular polyester resin?


Polyester resin is formulated to build boats .

It has inhibitors too allow the next layer to form a primary bond to a not"too" old hardened layer.

Used with proper techniques it builds good boats, with semi skilled labor.

Epoxy is the only resin to use for repairs as it is a great glue.

IT will stick to wood as well as cleaned up polly (it sticks to the exposed ground clean glass fibers).

Epoxy is also poisonous so it works on wood to kill some of the encapsulated rot spores.

IF you are building a new boat Polly is the stuff (unless aircraft light is required).

For repairs only epoxy will last.

FF

thanks for all the help. im going to add glass.

and capn chuck, when i said i dont belive its the same deck as your marine trader i was taking a guess that under your teak theres plywood and no glass. with wood deck beams. which i have seen on a 36 MT (older model i belive a '79) where mine are molded fiberglass with teak core. I am going to add some glass, not sure what yet. im going to run a moisture meter over the decks tonight and see what I have to work with. i may go with a heavy wolven mat to stiffin the decks and add strength and then go over it with some fiberglass cloth so i can run it up about a inch or two on the cabin. I need to make sure its watertight because I will have snow and ice on her next year and the years folowing i dont plan to shrinkwrap in the winters. thanks for the input

-- Edited by albin43 on Wednesday 17th of March 2010 06:01:53 AM

Over the years we have finally worked out a system for rapidly and easily cleaning the top layer of surface , so it can be glassed.

A large grinder ( 9A to 15A) is fitted with a Bher Manning pad that is about 2 inches thick.
About $60 or so just for the pad.

The sanding material is # 16 or 20 from the local floor refinishing supply. The material is sold by the foot (5 ft will do a 50 ft boat) and is 10 inches wide.

WE snap the sand sheet into 10in square LEAVE ON THE CORNERS! and use "sanding disc adhesive' (NAPA) to hold it to the soft pad.The corners of the backing help not dig divots in the surface.

NO pressure is required the setup just requires a very light touch to clear off layers of paint , black goop from between planking .The weight of the unit is plenty.

The reason it woks is the coarse grit does not plug , but most important the pebbles glued to the cardboard backing (yes its looks that coarse) is Silicon Carbide , not Aluminum oxide.

Again a LIGHT TOUCH is used.

All of the teak on our decks was removed by Marsh Harbor Marina in Beaufort, SC. They did a fantastic job. This was done BTW, before we purchased the boat. The plywood core was removed and a synthetic core installed and the decks were all glassed over. But I have removed and repaired decks on power and sail boats of all different manufacturers in the past. I have also redone work that owners and even so called professionals have done and not done properly. The cost to undo a bad repair can often exceed the cost to do it right the first time, not considering the down time and aggravation factor. Chuck