Engine Zinc's...are they necessary?
- Thread starter baldpaul
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River Cruiser
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I just had my manicooler on the port engine ceramic coated, Greenwater marine exhaust who did the work will as part of their service add zincs. I chose not to have them added to mine. But anytime a heat exchanger is serviced adding zincs may be a option.
RT Firefly
Enigma
Greetings,
Mr. RC. Please tell me more about the ceramic coating of your cooler. I'm assuming your water cooled exhaust manifold. If not, what? Advantages? Cost? Reason?
Mr. RC. Please tell me more about the ceramic coating of your cooler. I'm assuming your water cooled exhaust manifold. If not, what? Advantages? Cost? Reason?
River Cruiser
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The weak spot on the marinization of the Hino diesels is the aluminium exhaust manifold / heat exchanger (manicooler). The engine is mounted with the front higher than the flywheel end & anything in the antifreeze that settles out lays on the #6 exhaust runner. This material will over time corrode the runner & allow antifreeze to enter the combustion chamber when the engine is not running, which leads to expensive repairs. Changing the antifreeze every other year helps prevent this. Having the manicooler ceramic coated will prevent this from ever happening. The cost of the manicooler at $10,000.00 is what makes this a wise preventative maintenance practice. There is a aftermarket supplier now but the cost is still $4,500.00. I plan on pulling the SB side & have it done this fall. You have to remove the manicooler to get the tubing bundle out to clean & test so that is a good time to send it off for the coating.
RT Firefly
Enigma
Greetings,
Thank you. WOW $10K!
Thank you. WOW $10K!
Would it be accurate to sum this up by saying that if the manufacturer calls for anodes on the engine or cooling system components, you should install and maintain them and if the manufacturer does not call for anodes, you don't need them?
River Cruiser
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I have a question, my Westerbeke 8BTD gen has pencil anodes in the heat exchanger. Last fall while doing winter layup I tried to buy a replacement for freshwater & the parts dept. couldn't find any from the distributor. Saltwater were available but she couldn't locate a source for freshwater. Has anyone else encountered this, if so what did you do?
Try this website:
Pencil Zinc replacement Aluminum Pencil Anodes, Navalloy, Secure Core,
Pencil Zinc replacement Aluminum Pencil Anodes, Navalloy, Secure Core,
River Cruiser
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Yes that's why I was looking for ones suitable for freshwater.
River Cruiser
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Correct, the marina parts dept. couldn't find them from Westerbeke, I don't know how many other suppliers if any they tried.
CPseudonym
Moderator Emeritus
This may be a silly idea and if it is somebody please call me on it. I recall a thread recently discussing hull anodes where someone gave a link to an online source for them. Perhaps fstbttms was the one whom posted it.
Would a supplier of hull anodes also source them for this application?
Sent from my iPhone using Trawler
psneeld
Guru
have to call these guys...not sure if their pencils have the correct threads..
Magnesium Rod and Pencil Anodes - | Brance-Krachy
Don't know which engines you have Larry but my Perkins HT6-354 manual says the oil should be checked at idle due to the dry/wet/scavenger pump sump arrangement.
Nomad Willy
Guru
I don't have any engine zincs. I don't have any seawater on/in my engine. And that is no accident.
Third-Reef
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Searios said:
My. Volvo tmd41As have zincs in the HE and oil coolers. Perhaps that's why they are sooo reliable and every one wishes they had volvos
psneeld
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You should use a smiley face or something similar when you say stuff that is soooooo funny!!!!
Gulfstar 36
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Thanks for the link! After seeing how the one on my port engine failed I'm going to try these out. I'm intrigued by the "Secure Core"
Phil Fill
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Both are soft and usually to long, so they can be cut off and easy re thread. I would not rethread the plug!
There was a very long discussion a couple weeks ago about anodes and it was finally ended for fresh water zinc is OK, but magnesium is a scoash/tad better. Zinc for brackish and salt where they last at least a year. Aluminum for salt in hot marinas where zinc do not last.
psneeld
Guru
Zincs last as long as they may. Some boats, some applications, some places.....some a year...some a couple weeks.
So far on this trip of mine...the Lehman zincs need replacement about every 2 -3 weeks plus around 50 hrs running time.
So far on this trip of mine...the Lehman zincs need replacement about every 2 -3 weeks plus around 50 hrs running time.
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