Port replacement

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waterfront

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2012
Messages
54
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Waterfront
Vessel Make
Chein Hwa Present Sundeck 35
I am about to embark on the project of the year for my trawler. I have been looking at different port manufacturers for replacement ports. I think that I have found the ports I want at Newfound Metals. Has anyone here used the Trimatrix ports that are available from them? They seem to be a reputable company that has a high quality product. These ports are a composite with stainless fasteners that fit within my budget as I have 10 ports to replace. Any input would help.:ermm:New Found Metals - The New Self-Sealing TriMatrix
 
I have used their bronze portlights on two projects and found them well made and the company good to deal with. The TriMatrix product... I don't know. I think all their stuff is made in Asia so don't pay more than other Asian products available.
 
I have seen the bronze and also the stainless and was very impressed with both, but the trimatrix product suits my budget much better.
 
I have seen the bronze and also the stainless and was very impressed with both, but the trimatrix product suits my budget much better.

In answer to your question: Yes. I installed 15 of them on our trawler this past spring. They are excellent, look good work good, and the claim that they are "self sealing" is 100% accurate. You do not use any sealant when they are installed.... I also purchased the stainless steel screens for the ports.

When you order them....do also get a "template"/jig for the size you are ordering.. If you don't have a counterbore of the size needed, get one from them.

When you call NFM...you will most likely talk to "Teri"...she's a nice lady and knows her stuff. Tell her "Rob" in FL said HI!

If you want a couple of hints on making it easier to put them in....let me know....be glad to share what I know...
 
The nicest ports to live with are the ones with the flanges angled down outside.

These will not dump in a cup of water inside on opening after every rain shower.

Sadly they are harder to install, because of the angled cuts required.

I prefer ports with screens that are mounted into thick holders.

That way we can remove the screen and slip in a Lexan storm shutter as needed.

Higher quality ports will have the top hinges in slots , not just drilled holes.

The slot with a hex screw allows the port to be tightened as the rubber takes a set.

There are "silent" hooks that will hold the port open that do not make the jangling noise of two simple eyes when not in use underway.
 
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Replaced mine with NFM stainless ports. Great product, no leaks and the NFM staff are great to work with. Two other people on my dock used them and they both had a positive experience and are pleased with the product.
 
I replace four plastic round ports that were leaking with NFM chrome plated brass. They are attractive, have no exterior screws, have a drain at the bottom outside, and the doors are adjustable inside to fit tightly against the removable screen rubber seals. The quality is excellent and came with installation tools. I'm quite satisfied.
 

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:dance:I just got off the phone, placed my order for 10 of the trimatrix ports. The people at NFM were very courteous and helpful. The project is now officially underway !
 
:dance:I just got off the phone, placed my order for 10 of the trimatrix ports. The people at NFM were very courteous and helpful. The project is now officially underway !

Did you get the screens with?

Did you order the "counter-bore" from NFM?

If you like, let me know when you are ready to put them in...and I'd be happy to answer any questions...
 
I chose not to get the screens at this time as they added a little more to the price, and they will be readily available at a later date. I did order the counter bore as well as the template as was recommended by NFM. Any and all advice is welcomed.
 
I chose not to get the screens at this time as they added a little more to the price, and they will be readily available at a later date. I did order the counter bore as well as the template as was recommended by NFM. Any and all advice is welcomed.

First thing I recommend....is to drill every hole at least one size larger than the template calls for. Us the template, then redrill the holes. That way if there is any angle difference between the outside hull and the interior finish wood, you will be able to still get the fasteners threaded.

Second...start the fasteners by hand then turn them in with a screw driver. If you encounter resistance, back it out and start over. A little lubrication on the fastener will help as well.

Third...it isn't good to try and do the fastening of the two halves alone...especially if the port is being mounted on the exterior of the hull. The outer caps that you are screwing the fastener into...well, the tape like film that holds them in place is not "infallible"....best to have someone on the other side to make sure it doesn't fall out or turn out of position....

Fourth....if you are going to be mounting the portlights up high...close to the overhead in a cabin...adjust out the dogs prior to installing. It will make life easier.

Fifth....no matter how tempting it is to use other sealants....DON'T! They are not needed.

Hope that helps.
 

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