Sampson Post & Capstan

I have a sampson post mounted just aft of the windlass. Although it can be used for a multitude of jobs, what was the original intent for this device? The same question applies to the capstan. What was it's original intent?


-- Edited by SeaHorse II at 10:05, 2009-03-07

This set up works for a combination chain/nylon rode. Use the sampson post to tie off the nylon rode at anchor, to take the strain off the capstan and windlass. The capstan is used to haul the nylon rode aboard until you get to the chain, which then goes around the windlass gypsy.

You should also use the sampson post to relieve strain on your chain rode at anchor with a chain hook and a short length of line. I like using a bridle over both sides of the bow which tends to dampen swing at anchor. If you don't have secure enough cleats, you could bring a bridle back to the sampson post.

This of course, assume you anchor. Your anchor looks awful pristine! Just Kidding!

Thanks for the input RED! You're right! That is a polished SS anchor my wife bought me for my birthday...my day to day bruce is in the lazarette and looks like this. (Still...not much use is there? <grin>)



-- Edited by SeaHorse II at 14:46, 2009-03-07

-- Edited by SeaHorse II at 14:48, 2009-03-07

-- Edited by SeaHorse II at 14:49, 2009-03-07

A real Sampson post---- and I'm not saying yours isn't--- is VERY securely attached the boat. On wooden boats like fishing schooners and the like, the post went clear down to the keel and was heavily braced. It was one of the strongest structural components on the boat and was used to secure the anchor rode, tow the boat if necessary, act as a tie-off point for installing or removing heavy mast components like gaffs and whatnot, and any other task where a line that was going to be carrying a real heavy load could be tied off.

I have seen boats with "Sampson posts" that were simply fastened to the deck or the back of the pulpit. They looked good but they weren't the kind of thing you would want to apply a heavy load to. So make sure the post on your boat is truly strong and is heavily braced the boat's primary structure before putting any kind of significant load on it. Given the height of the post, a load will exert a lot of leverage on it. As such, if it is just fastened to the deck with bolts and a backing plate, it will probably take less of a load before something breaks than a properly backed deck cleat because of the tremendous leverage a load can put on the post's mounting system.

But a proper Sampson post can be a real benefit on a boat. I wish GBs had them.

The original intent of the capstan was to provide a means of lifting heavy things. Most of the time, the "thing" was the anchor. However I was on board the Cutty Sark in London a number of years ago on one of their "school" days. They had a program where school kids came down and actually worked the ship, as much as one could with it in its permanent drydock. In addition to holystoning the decks, preparing lunch in the galley, hoisting a fore-and-and aft sail and whatnot, one of the activities was loading and unloading the ship. The Cutty Sark (built in 1869) has a large horizontal, manually operated windlass just aft of the raised foredeck. This windlass was used not only to raise the anchor but to operate the lines controling the loading derrick on the ship. The kids would hoist a load of tea crates off the deck, swing it over the side, and lower it to the ground and then bring it back aboard again.

This is a portion of a painting by Christopher Blossom showing lumber schooners in Port Blakely, Washington. To fit the ships into the tiny cove they would drop anchor some distance ahead of their berth and then be hauled backwards to the dock using lines attached to the stern while the anchor chain was paid out from the bow. Some vessels had stern capstans so they could pull themselves in, others had to have the lines hauled in by a winch on the pier. To depart, the ship would pull herself clear of the docks and other ships by hauling herself up to the anchor with the forward capstan. The practice of maneuving a vessel using lines is called "warping." The title of this painting is "Warping In, Port Blakely, 1903."

The second painting by the same artist is called "Heavy Weather." Note the large capstan on the foredeck and the sets of two big Sampson posts flanking it on each side.




-- Edited by Marin at 17:30, 2009-03-07

I agree, Marin, check how the post is mounted.

The reason I suggest taking the load off the windlass at anchor is that the anchor rode is exerting a torqueing force on the shaft of an electric motor over an extended period.

Another reason for using a bridle is that a chain rode can make quite a racket rollling over in the bow roller when the boat yaws, as I discovered one sleepless night when I convinced myself that I was dragging anchor (me, draped over the bow pulpit in skivvies isn't a pretty sight - fortunately it was a dark night).

SeaHorse II wrote:

The same question applies to the capstan. What was it's original intent?

Click to expand...

I just realized what your question applies to, so I appolgize for the very elementary explanation I gave you earlier.* You were asking about the capstan on your windlass, I assume, not capstans in general.

As RED said, the capstan on a modern windlass is to haul in line.* The wildcat is for the chain, obviously.* Your vertical windlass is set up to haul in a combination rode in the manner RED described.* On horizontal windlasses like the Lofrans Tigres on our boat, the wildcat is on one side and the line gypsy on the other.* Since we, like most boaters in the PNW use an all-chain rode, the windlass is mounted to put the wildcat in line with the pulpit rollers.* The only thing we use the line gypsy for is to pull in the anchor trip line if we need to back the anchor out.* When we do this, the trip line is fed through the port bow hawse and up to the line gypsy.



*

A Capstan is very useful at most pulling tasks.

It can pull the boat alongside or move it on a dock with minimum hassle.

The all chain fellows in coral waters will usually have a chain claw with a thin nylon snubber 20ft 3/8 , or so to stop the boat from fetching hard against the chain.

The snubber is ALWAYS short enough that if dropped overboard it will NOT get in the prop.

All chain anchorers will have a deck chain stopper that actually holds the vessel while anchored.

The capstan only being used to recover the chain and lift it aboard , but NOT break it out from the bottom.

FF - Not all chain rode (few if any) anchorers rely on the chain stopper to hold the boat. Few chain stoppers I've seen match the Sampson post for strength. If a snubber(s) is used and affixed to the Sampson, no pressure will be on the chain above the snubber - it will all be on the Sampson as described in above posts.

Marin's picture shows the use of a snubber. I assume, since you can see the end of an eye splice Marin is using it to keep the anchor secure when it is stowed. Notice how the chain is slack. In this case, the cleat on top of the windlass is taking the place of a sampson post.

Marin, I also like to see someone who knows how to make fast to a cleat - just once around with an interlocking half hitch. With the line properly sized to the cleat, I have never had this slip or work loose, and it will not jam either.

This pictue is the mark of a good seaman!

I grabbed a couple of quick photo's of our Samson Posts- Looks to be about a foot above the deck and about 3' below- mounting to the floor of the chain lockers. This leverage would be cruicial for strength.Steve

RED wrote:

Marin's picture shows the use of a snubber. I assume, since you can see the end of an eye splice Marin is using it to keep the anchor secure when it is stowed. Notice how the chain is slack. In this case, the cleat on top of the windlass is taking the place of a sampson post.

Click to expand...

RED--- The line you see in my photo is our chain stopper. It is used to hold the anchor securely to the pulpit (a Rocna is balanced to deploy so it has to be held back), and to prevent the chain from running out on its own when we are at anchor since we always keep the friction brake on the windlass backed off unless we are actually using the windlass.


When we are at anchor, we use a pair of long 1/2" nylon snubbers attached to a grabber plate (or whatever the correct term is), a stainless plate with a slot in it that holds a link of chain and two shackles in the corners for the snubbers. The bitter end of each snubber is secured to its own bow cleat. So we never put the anchor strain on the windlass, the windlass mount, or the bow pulpit. It is always on the two deck cleats.


But even with this arrangement we still use the short chain stopper line since we let a long loop of chain out between the bow pulpit and the chain grabber plate. This loop hangs down about 8 or 10 feet underwater so if we backed off on the windlass brake without the chain stopper line, all the chain would run out.


We have another line, a length of 5/8" nylon about 15 feet long with a chain hook on it, that we use to set the anchor. When the anchor and chain are deployed I put the chain hook on the chain hanging down from the bow roller, pull the line back through a bow hawse and secure it to one of the deck cleats. We then set the anchor against the heavily-backed-up deck cleat rather than the bow pulpit and windlass. If we're only anchoring for a short while we'll stay on this setting line. If we're staying longer we remve the setting line and deploy the snubber arrangement I described earlier.


These operations are much easier and quicker than they sound, and they are all designed to put the strain of setting the anchor and holding the boat on the strongest components at the bow, which are the two deck cleats. If we had a proper Sampson post, we'd use that instead, but GB didn't see fit to include this very useful item in their design




-- Edited by Marin at 15:04, 2009-03-08

I've got a samson post mounted to the deck only. I've been thinking about removing it and installing 2 or 3 large cleats with a large common backing plate.*
Red,* If one alighns the gypsy with the bow roller the capstan is going to be WAY off alignment to the roller. Does the capstan work well at such angles? I think I saw a windlass w the capstan and gypsy right next to one another* ..* both on the same side of the windlass but can't seem to find any made that way. In this reguard I think the vertical windlass has a distinct advantage. I would like to hear comment about about this misalighnment.* Marin, I don't think all chain rode is most popular even among trawlers much less*boaters in general in the PNW. Even within the SE Alaska fishing fleet many ( guess about 35% ) have nylon*line visible under the chain on their reel style winch drums. *With these drum winches there is no need for special equpment to handle both chain and line. The drum winch is getting more attractive to me as time goes by. With the drum winch I could use 12 to 14' of heavy chain ( 3/8" for my little boat ) and the rest 5/8" nylon line. That would keep the anchor shank down low and eliminate a lot of unessessary chain ( weight ). The drum winches are aluminum and hence, light.

Eric Henning
30 Willard
Thorne Bay Alaska

Marin; you and I have the same arrangement - that's what I have been calling a bridle. The only difference is I am using a chain hook, as opposed to your plate. On our boat, the lines come aboard through deck cavils (basically a hawsehole with cleat horns on the inside) in the side bulwarks.
The advantage of the bridle, as opposed to a single sampson post, is less swinging at anchor. I think this is less of an issue for you in your GB and Eric's Willard, since you both have a full keel. Our OA has a partial skeg. If the bow starts to fall off, the windward part of the bridle goes slack while the leeward side tensions, thereby bringing the bow back to center.
I agree this system is easy to deploy, and correctly puts strain on the hull instead of the windlass.
Eric, not sure I want to take on a horizontal vs vertical axis debate on this forum! LOL. As with all things boating, there are comprises. The horizontal Lofrans (Like Marin's) is a good, rugged unit and a fairly simple installation, the only deck penetrations are electrical, bolts and hausepipe. Everything is on deck for easy maint access. On the other hand, everything is on deck, exposed to the elements and with some potential shin bangers. The verticle (I have a Maxwell) is more complicated to install - the shaft goes through the deck. The electrical parts are below deck out of the elements, but if you have a problem, you're trying to crawl into the chain locker.

I also use a "V" shaped bridle with a chain hook. There is an 18" eye spliced on each end of the bridle. The eyes fit over the sampson post and run through a chock on each side of the boat before spilling over. This has worked great over the years for me and is very quiet! No chain rattling in the roller. (Yes RED, I have had an occaision or two to actually set the hook. <grin>)

Eric's point about the vertical windlass is a good one. My vertical windlass is a MUIR 1200 whose gypsy accepts either chain or line. I have all chain but I am going to change that to 60' of chain and 250' of line. I want to lighten up my bow as much as possible for ocean running. Besides, areas where I'll be anchoring don't require a lot of chain.

Vertical windlass vs. a horizontal....There appears to be more line/chain "purchase" on the vertical's gypsy than on the horizontal. Any comments?

Walt

Years ago we went the chain claw and two bridle arrangement for anchoring.* Used three strand nylon (3/8") long enough to get some stretch.* Thought the arrangement would keep the bow pointed upwind even though a Krogen sails around a lot.* Sort of worked but what really got my attention was the noise associated with the anchor chain links sliding by the taught anchor bridle as the boat was swinging from side to side.* Kind of like plucking a guitar string that was continually getting out of tune.* As long as we got the towang, twachk, plonk, silence, plonk, twachk, towang etc we knew we were still hooked to the bottom!* Sure made sleep an interesting exercise.*

Now days, we use a single bridle (over the bow pulpit) tied to the rode w/ a rolling hitch.* Works almost as well as two, is mostly silent and is very easy to deploy & retrieve.* On occasion we have run the bridle out one of the forward hause cleats which seems to have some effect on the swing.* It has been suggested to try a line from midships to the rode to limit swing but we haven't felt the need to try that yet.

Experimentation is a good thing as different boats & anchorages with varying wind and current conditions will have a big effect on what works.

Here are a couple of pictures of my samson post which is a pretty old style timber one - concrete is ballast. Also original capstans driven off the front of the main engine via a reduction box and truck differential - I got rid of these though as they made the wheel house floor so high you had to be a midget to stand up and drive the boat, plus I do not plan on doing much net hauling.

Cheers, leon.

nomadwilly wrote:

Marin, I don't think all chain rode is most popular even among trawlers much less boaters in general in the PNW.

Click to expand...

It may not be up in your area but it definitely is in the lower PNW. I have yet to meet a single recreational trawler owner in the ten years we've been doing this kind of boating who uses a combination rode. Not that I've met that many owners, but when we've been in anchorages, for example on our three-week cruise in Desolation Sound last fall, EVERY powerboat we see (except very small ones) uses all-chain rode. Sailboats seem to use combination rodes more often than not, but the trawlers, tugs, and cruisers we've seen have all been all-chain.

This makes sense since more and more boats we see are operating their windlasses from the flying bridge or the pilothouse. So there is no one forward to shift the rode from the line gypsy to the wildcat at the changeover point. All chain means you simply push the button and hold it until the anchor comes up on the pulpit. If there is someone forward on these boats, all they're ever doing is hosing down the chain as it comes in and pulling weed off the anchor after it's on the pulpit.

I don't doubt there are powerboaters out there in this area who use a combination rode. But I've not seen one of them yet.



-- Edited by Marin at 00:47, 2009-03-10

SeaHorse II wrote:

Vertical windlass vs. a horizontal....There appears to be more line/chain "purchase" on the vertical's gypsy than on the horizontal. Any comments?

Click to expand...

The installation instructions that came with our Lofrans Tigres state that the windlass must be mounted so that the angle of pull on the chain is 90 degrees or less. In other words the chain can come straight in to the top of the wildcat, or at some angle from below the top of the wildcat, but never at an angle that's higher than the top of the wildcat. Ours is just slightly below the top of the wildcat but not much. So it has a quarter-wrap around the wildcat, as did our original windlass. The Tigres is a very fast windlass, but we've never had a problem with the chain jumping or skipping in the wildcat with the quarter-wrap. Nor did we with the original, albeit much slower windlass.

So I don't think the typical quarter-wrap of a horizontal windlass and the half-wrap of the typical vertical windlass result in any differences in their ability to haul in chain.

As to the purchase of a line around the smooth gypsy drum of a windlass, since you can wrap the line around the drum as many times as you want, I don't believe there is any purchase advantage of a horizontal over a vertical or visa versa.

I don't think there is any real arguement between horizontal vs. vertical because they both have advantages for different boat configurations. The vertical is usually a cleaner installation with a much smaller footprint on deck. It seems to be very popular with sailboaters, for good reason. The horizontal is ideal for bow configurations that put the pulpit some distance above the deck since the horizontal is easily mounted on a block or frame to elevate it to the right height to accept the chain coming off the back of the pulpit.

As ohers have mentioned, maintanance can be easier with a horizontal windlass simply because everything is right there on deck.

But with regards to how well they deploy and retrieve an anchor rode, I don't think there is much difference between a well-designed and well-built vertical windlass and a good horizontal windlass. We use all-chain rode on our boat, and I don't think there would be much difference in chain handling between the two types of windlasses. The GB we used to charter had a vertical windlass built into the back of its pulpit and it deployed and retrieved the boat's all-chain rode just fine.

It may be that one style makes it easier to retrieve a nylon rode than the other, but I've not had any experience with that. The "stacked" vertical configuration like on Seahorse's boat makes a lot of sense if you're going to use a combination rode since the line gypsy and the wildcat are both in line with the pulpit rollers.

If we were to use a combination rode on our boat, we would most likely do what a lot of sailboaters we see do, which is pull in the nylon portion of the rode by hand until we got to the chain. I don't know if the wildcat on the Tigres will also pull in line or if they offer one that does. The offset line gypsy on the Tigres is great for hauling in the anchor trip line but as Eric noted it would put a nylon rode at a very awkward angle for retrieving, plus the rode hawse is on the opposite side of the windlass from the line gypsy.

With all-chain none of this is an issue, but if we wanted to use a combination rode we'd have to do some creative thinking as to the best way to retrieve the nylon portion of the rode.




-- Edited by Marin at 01:19, 2009-03-10

krogenguy wrote:

Y what really got my attention was the noise associated with the anchor chain links sliding by the taught anchor bridle as the boat was swinging from side to side.

Click to expand...

That's one advantage of using the chain plate or whatever it's called.* The plate's width, while not a lot, is sufficient to hold the two snubbers far enough apart that the chain almost never touches them.* Also, becasue we let a long loop of chain down between the pulpit roller and the plate, a loop that hangs far below the plate, the rode going up to the pulpit roller is actually quite far away from the Vee'd out snubbers.

The vertical windlass will have the electrics or hydraulics out of the weather under the deck, weight is lower in the vessel too.

A special gypsy will recover chain as well as rope for the single handers , although the splice is interesting to make.

The vertical is usually easier to lead other lines to , to use as a donky winch.

The horizontal is easier to replace as there is a precise hole for a shaft that may not work with the next unit.

FF

FF wrote:

The vertical windlass will have the electrics or hydraulics out of the weather under the deck, weight is lower in the vessel too.

Click to expand...

One complaint I've heard from the owner of a sailboat with a vertical windlass is that since the motor and gearbox*are supposedly protected under the deck, the manufacturer(s) don't go the the same degree of protection for*these components as manufacturers of horizontal windlasses where all the components are above deck.* In his case, salt water "splashing" off the chain as it went down into the locker*past the motor of his vertical windlass caused severe corrosion of wiring terminals and other components, and the end result was a*massive short-out of the motor one day.

Granted, all windlasses are not*created equal and I'm sure there*must be*vertical windlasses that would resist this problem.**But in the case of the big no-name horizontal windlass that came on our boat and the Lofrans Tigres we replaced it with, gearbox and motor components are extremely well protected from the weather, water,*spray, etc.*so the potential for the wiring, motor, and gearbox to be put at risk*was not an issue at all.* Same thing with the heavy-duty hydraulic windlasses I've seen on friends' work boats.* The manufacturers knew they were going to be exposed on deck and so designed and built them accordingly.

*

So an under-deck mounting is not necessarily a less trouble prone installation, and an above-deck installation is not necessarily a more trouble-prone installation.

Sounds like someone that installs a low buck unit could solve any future problems with a 2 ft hose attached below the chain entrance,.

One of the vertical units advantages that requires a bit of work is the shaft can be extended (simple pipe ) and the power unit mounted fairly low in the bow.

A cheapo could be simply boxed , although a proper chain locker will contain the chain with no water draining/, except at the bottom when the box is flushed with chlorox to kill the mud stench.

A "proper" chain box is tall and skinney , and the chain never gets a chance to pile and tumble , simply stack , ready to run.



-- Edited by FF on Tuesday 17th of March 2009 04:41:33 AM

As many of you know, anchoring is not my thing. Heck leaving the dock is not my thing.*(-; *Being a long time member of PMM, *if I posted this they would excommunicate me from the PMM site. *So I am hoping not to get beaten up to badly on this site.* Now do not get me wrong, we now have an anchor bridle only because FF and others on the PMM site 10+ years ago said a bridle should be used.* There is very little information about anchor bridles written and on the internet. Chapmen and other anchor information allude to securing the line/chain with no explanation. **They go into detail about scope, using buoys, weighs, snubbers to reduce the stress tension, but nothing or very little about anchor bridles.


*
I can understand when boats had a capstan/winch that the line had to be cleat off to secure the line to something. **The Eagle has a Samson post mounted right in back of the windless and secured to the same decking/plates/structure.* Many boats today do not have a Samson post, just a windless and deck cleats. So is the idea of a bridle sort of a throw back to the days of a capstan and Samson post the line had to be secured to something, but with to days windless is it necessary?* I mean if I do not use a bridle am I hypocrite and going to boaters hell, and if so I just want to know the reason why? ***


*
The previous owner of the Eagle cruised and mainly anchored. The Eagle has 3 anchors, lines/chain, shackles, but nothing remotely looking like an anchor bridle? The Eagle windless has a cleat mounted on top of the windless housing that has a line secured about 3ft log to the anchor when it is stowed. The few times we have anchor with 3 to 5 times scope, 100 to 150ft, the chain hung straigh down/slack most of the time, as the weight of the chain gave enough*give/slack.* The Eagles windless is strong enough to pull in 90lb anchor and 30 to 50 ft of chain, so it should be strong enough to hold the boat at anchor under most conditions.


*
So, what is the main purpose of a bridle 1) take the stress/stain/load off the windless drum/gear/motor and/or 2) the windless is just not strong enough so the chain/line has to be secured to something else 3) is a bridle only need for certain conditions?*


*
Oh, since many of you**post on the PMM site, I would appreciated it, if this stayed on this site.* Sort of like What happen in sin city stays in sin city.*


*

Phil:

Your explanation on the use of a bridle/capstan/windlass is quite good. Especially your last question. Yes, your reasons stated for using a bridle are correct. One of the reasons for using a bridle which you didn't mention is "to eliminate chain rattling over the bow roller all night." That's my biggest reason for using one. I will admit, however, that using the windlass for holding the boat at anchor is not a good idea. It probably would hold most trawlers just fine but that doesn't make it acceptable to most salty sailors.

Phil--- The main advantage of a bridle (going back through the port and starboard bow hawses) over a single line snubber is that the bridle will usually reduce, at least to a degree, the hunting or yawing of a boat while at anchor or on a mooring. In terms of function alone, a single-line snubber is as effective as a bridle in providing some shock absorbing with all-chain rode and keeping the chain from rolling back and forth on the bow roller which can make a lot of noise that gets transmitted through the entire boat.

The key to making a snubber work--- bridle or single-line---* is once the anchor is set and the snubber deployed, let a long loop of chain out to hang down between the chain hook or grabber on the snubber and the bow roller. This loop of chain--- we typically let out a loop that hangs six to ten feet below the surface--- helps keep the anchor rode secure in the chain hook or grabber, it helps keep the pull on the anchor at a little lower angle, and the fact that it's totally slack means there is no movement of the chain in the bow roller when the wind or current shifts the boat around.

If you want to read what I think is the best book available on the subject of anchoring and mooring pick up a copy of "The Complete Book of Mooring and Anchoring" by Earl Hinz. Everything we know about anchoring we learned from that book as well as getting advice from friends who have a lot of anchoring experience.

-- Edited by Marin on Monday 23rd of March 2009 11:57:07 PM

"The key to making a snubber work--- bridle or single-line--- is once the anchor is set and the snubber deployed, let a long loop of chain out to hang down between the chain hook or grabber on the snubber and the bow roller. This loop of chain--- we typically let out a loop that hangs six to ten feet below the surface--- helps keep the anchor rode secure in the chain hook or grabber, it helps keep the pull on the anchor at a little lower angle, and the fact that it's totally slack means there is no movement of the chain in the bow roller when the wind or current shifts the boat around."


This works but there is even a better way .

On many TT there is a SS bow eye just above the water.

The snubbers should be shakeled into this plate , and be as long as can be done , without the line ending in the prop, should it be lost overboard.

AT least two lines , light and more substantial should be used.

An added advantage is the scope is higher as the boat is held to its ground tackle 5 or more ft lower.

The chain can now ,lubber style, be left on the windlass as the vessel is not secured by the windlass.

I've seen what FF describes on many "high end" vessels including Nordhavn. What bothers me about this setup is you are now hoping the builder sized and backed the eye properly.*Further it forces you to do a dinghy inspection of the waterline rope and fittings. Ahh, these better mousetraps never stop coming. I've got it, how about a big solid post up by the windlass?

The "snubber (or nylon rode) secured to the bow eye" setup does indeed lower the angle of pull on the anchor and is a great idea. The problem is an operational one. For starters, most boats of the type most of us have don't have the eye. Second is what Sunchaser said--- it's a pain in the ass to deal with. You either have to leave the snubber permanently attached to the eye with the working end brough on board and secured when you're not using it, or you have to go out in the dinghy every time you anchor to set up and retrieve the snubber or attach a nylon rode to the eye.

We're not going to install a strongly secured and backed-up bow eye on our 36-year old GB--- we've got better things to do with the money. And if we had an eye, we wouldn't bother with the hassle of getting the snubber on and off it anyway. And I wouldn't want to leave the snubber permanently attached to the eye.

But there's no question it's a good method IF the bow eye is attached to the boat in such a way that it won't work loose, won't pull out of the stem or crack it, etc. There are people who use this method with great success.

" There are people who use this method with great success."

They work from the deck alone with no need for a dink ride.

The secret? a snap shackel instead of a chain claw that falls off easily when not under load.

Simply retrieve the chain and undo the snubber as it comes within EZ reach.

When it starts to blow haul in the 20 ft of chain , unsnap the 3/8 line and after shooting more chain simply hook on the 1/2 inch storm snubber.


Remember the reason to use 20 ft of springy nylon is to get the spring.

Since it takes 15% to 40% of the lines working load to get the nylon to stretch, HEAVY lines defeat the purpose of the drill.

Since the loads are fairly light the bow eye does not have to be a monstrous expensive big deal, most anything rational that will take a couple of tons.

An anchor weight (or series of weights) will soften the chain snatch if there is no suitable bow fitting .A coffee can of lead with a snap shakle is easy to handle.


-- Edited by FF on Thursday 26th of March 2009 04:37:04 AM

I note many Nordhavns have removed their "waterline" snubber ropes. Ask them why - "I don't trust it because I can't see it."* Remember we are speaking of very heavy vessels here, not tinker toys. What do the commercial guys do? Rickb?