• Trawler Forum Classified Posting Guidelines
    • We expect ads placed to be related to the topic of this forum.
    • Ads that are inactive for 180 days or longer may be moved to the Classified Archive and locked. Ads may be relisted if the item is still current. Alternatively, owners may contact a Moderator to reinstate an archived ad.
    • The Classified section is for advertising, members are asked to refrain from posting discussions to a Classified Ad. Please start a discussion thread or PM the owner for discussions.
    • Do not hijack another member's ad by posting unsolicited commentary. Example: if a member has posted an ad offering an anchor for sale, don't add a post to his thread stating that you have an anchor you'd like to get rid of also. Posts deemed as unsolicited commentary may be removed.
    • For your own security, do NOT include your e-mail or phone number in your ad. Instead request that interested parties contact you via PM (private message) to provide owners contact info.
    • Brokers, Dealers, or those with a commercial interest in a sale are prohibited from posting in Classifieds.
    • Only Trawler Forum Commercial Members may post ads in the Commercial section. You must be a designated Commercial Member to start threads in this section of the forum. (Contact a moderator if you have questions about this)
    • Don't post links to commercial sites where you are also offering the boat, such as eBay, Craigslist or Yachtworld, etc. unless it contains a more in-depth description, additional information or pictures.
    • Place only one ad per item (you may repost only when your ad has expired and been removed).
    For Sale ads MUST include:
    • Asking price
    • Location
    • A Basic Description
    • Clear statement whether you are the owner or non-owner (posting for friend, relative, or acquaintance)
    • Don't forget to select: FOR SALE, WANTED or FREE in the Title block.
    All ads should also include ALL the following:
    • Pertinent maintenance and condition information
    • Exterior picture or pictures
    • Interior picture or pictures (boats)
    For maximum impact & exposure, it is suggested the Ad Title include: Year, Manufacturer, Model, Length, Price, and Location or at the very top of the ad body. When your item has sold or the ad is no longer relevant: Please post a Reply to the ad that the item is SOLD or click "Report Post" on post 1 of the thread to ask a moderator to archive the ad. Ads may be moved or removed by our staff at any time for any reason. All ads must comply with site rules. Thanks for your cooperation.
  • Avoid Scams.

    Our classifieds are free and anyone registered here is welcome to post an ad.
    Be aware that there are unscrupulous folks out there. Avoid any interaction that seems odd to you or �feels� wrong. Inquiries from unknown buyers, buyers �agents� and other non-traditional approaches should be treated with extreme caution.

    Beware of unsolicited contacts offering to put you in touch with someone else who is buying or selling via e-mail or text.

    Do not post your e-mail address or phone number in a classifieds ad.

    Hints that you may be dealing with a Scammer:
    • Seller or Buyer approaches you via a direct email or PM and then steers you to an off-site communication method (text or email).
    • No posts or very few forum posts.
    • Recent forum membership
    • Insists on conducting negotiations via email or text rather than PM
    • Requires payment via Bank Transfer, BitCoin/CryptoCurrency, WesternUnion or other unsecured method.
    • Buyer or Seller suggests Paypal "Friends and Family" payment. Paypal is a good way to arrange payment but an invoice for goods and services should be used rather than "Friends and Family". "Friends and Family" avoids fees BUT there is no recourse if the transaction runs aground. Friends and Family is for gifts only. There is no protection for Friends and Family transactions, so never ever use it to buy something.
    • Declines to allow viewing the item before proceeding with the transaction.

Consignment / Used boat equipment store list

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Status
Not open for further replies.

Keith

Guru
Joined
Oct 5, 2007
Messages
2,715
Vessel Name
Anastasia III
Vessel Make
Krogen 42
You might be trying to find an older part for your boat thats not carried at the usual marine store, or just trying to save some money. In either case, finding a good source for used or new surplus boat parts can be kind to your pocketbook. You can even sell some of your stuff that you dont use any more. Here is a good list of places that do used and consignment sales as well as overstocks / surplus.


*
Boaters Resale shop of Texas; 713-614-8884
http://www.boatersresaleshopoftexas.com/


*
Marine Connection Liquidators; Ft.
Pierce, FL (772) 465-6460 http://www.marconlq.biz/*


*
Quality Marine Surplus; Homosassa, FL (352) 628-7678
http://www.qualitymarinesurplus.com/index.htm


*
Nautical Traders; Nokomis, FL, (941) 488-0766 http://www.nauticaltrader.net/index.html


*
Scurvy Dog; Pensacola, FL (850) 434-1770


*
Marine Surplus; Bradenton/Sarasota, FL http://www.marinesurplusinc.com/servlet/StoreFront*


*
SailorMan; Ft. Lauderdale, FL (954) 522-6716 http://www.sailorman.com/index.php


*
Surplus Unlimited; Daytona Beach, FL (800) 842-5403 http://surplusunlimited.com/


*
Dons Marine Salvage; Clearwater, FL (727) 576-8577 http://www.donsmarinesalvage.net/*


*
Hornes Marine Salvage; Sarasota, FL (941) 342-8847 http://www.salvagemarine.com/


*
Big Tuna Salvage; Davie, FL 954-791-9700


*
Sailors Exchange; St. Augustine, FL (904) 808-0667 http://sailors-exchange.com/


*
Sea Chest; San Diego, CA (619) 225-1339 http://www.seachestmarine.com/


*
Bacon & Associates; Annapolis, MD (410) 263-4880 www.baconsails.com


*
Marine Consignment; Wickford, RI (401) 295-9709 www.marineconsignment.com


*
M & M Marine Salvage; Meredith, NH (603) 279-5041 www.mmmarinesalvage.com


*
Blue Pelican Marine, Alameda, CA94501 (510) 769-4858


*
Bay Area Marine Surplus, Brisbane, CA94005 (415) 508-0805


*
Second Wave Consignment; Seattle, WA (206) 632-4371 http://www.secondwave.cc/index.html
 
We've used Second Wave in Seattle on numerous occasions to buy everything from hard-to-find silicone-bronze fasteners to large fenders to a 200 pound industrial sewing machine for my wife to use on boat canvas.

There is one other store you might want to add to your list, and that is Pacific Marine Exchange in Bellingham, Washington. 360-738-8535, http://www.pacificmarineexchange.com/ Huge inventory of used parts and components, like Second Wave they will sell items on consignment.
 
There is another great place near Milwaukee.

Kendor Marine Corporation
kendormarine.com
5713 West Ryan Road
Franklin, WI 53132-9105
(414) 421-4370
 
Keith

For anyone on the middle Chesapeake Bay that can get to Annapolis, Bacon Sails
has been selling consignment stuff for years. They sell all kinds of hardware in addition to sails.
http://www.baconsails.com/

I used to like to walk through the place just to browse. I'm a sucker for something* I MIGHT need someday at a bargain price !

R.
 
Last year I found a hard find Lighthouse 1501 windlass at Bacon Sails, Annapolis. I paid close to*asking price and when it arrived in WA I discovered that the electric motor was fried. I called Bacon and described the situation. They apologized for not testing the motor and gave me a considerable refund, cutting the price in half. I was impressed and grateful for*good business practices. Highly recommend.

If you're in the PNW, be sure to check out Pacific Marine Exchange in Bellingham.*Second Wave is just okay --*but Pacific Marine Exchange is amazing! Everything imaginable from stainless hardware to electronics, to machinery, dinghies & davits, anchors and chain, rope, even nautical*themed art!*Over the years I have found PME prices to be the best anywhere. Highly recommend.
 
nwboater wrote:
Last year I found a hard find Lighthouse 1501 windlass at Bacon Sails, Annapolis. I paid close to*asking price and when it arrived in WA I discovered that the electric motor was fried. I called Bacon and described the situation. They apologized for not testing the motor and gave me a considerable refund, cutting the price in half. I was impressed and grateful for*good business practices. Highly recommend.

If you're in the PNW, be sure to check out Pacific Marine Exchange in Bellingham.*Second Wave is just okay --*but Pacific Marine Exchange is amazing! Everything imaginable from stainless hardware to electronics, to machinery, dinghies & davits, anchors and chain, rope, even nautical*themed art!*Over the years I have found PME prices to be the best anywhere. Highly recommend.
*A good friend and generally good guy. Contact them at www.pacificmarine.com


-- Edited by Carey on Sunday 12th of February 2012 09:29:05 PM
 
Sailors Exchange in St Augustine has been sold and the new owner (Clay Hansen) has added a second location. It is on the Ortega river near Huckins Yachts in Jacksonville, Fl.
 
No it pretty much is the way it was before. I like it a lot better than Sailormans in Lauderdale. Prices are much more in line with reality IMHO.
 
For those in the Ft L area don't forget the Dania Marine Flea Market, mid March.

First day is best if you are looking for a specific item ,

last day if low price is key. (They don't want to load the truck)
 
Is it better organized now?

Just in it three weeks ago. Don't know about better as I had never been there before. But it seems about the same as any other I have been in.

The exception to this is the one on US 1 in Fort Pierce FL. The Marine Connection Liquidators. Marine Connection Liquidators

Clean and neat. Everything is on shelves not piled on the floor and they have a lot of new in box items. Wire of all size and shape with terminal ends as well at $2.00 a pound.

Best and cleanest I have ever been in. Sorry I live 400 miles away.
 
Rusty Ron's at Island Marina, Morehead City NC (many OEM surplus parts and other stuff)

Island Marina -Rusty Ron's Marine Surplus warehouse

Jarrett Bay Surplus, Beaufort NC (lots of take outs from a big boat yard)

Marine Parts, Surplus & Salvage | Jarrett Bay Boatworks

Flounder Pounder for misc OEM parts especially Boston Whaler and Sea Ray who have plants nearby:

Flounder Pounder Marine & Trading Co., Inc

A couple of other notes, Marine Consignment of Wickford has branches in Mystic, CT and Fall River, MA (I've only been to the RI and CT stores, FR is fairly new)

Sailorman has a really good special order desk to the far left from the front door, good staff and excellent prices, I think I have bought more hard to find new stuff there than used and they do mail/phone order.
 
Just in it three weeks ago. Don't know about better as I had never been there before. But it seems about the same as any other I have been in.

The exception to this is the one on US 1 in Fort Pierce FL. The Marine Connection Liquidators. Marine Connection Liquidators

Clean and neat. Everything is on shelves not piled on the floor and they have a lot of new in box items. Wire of all size and shape with terminal ends as well at $2.00 a pound.

Best and cleanest I have ever been in. Sorry I live 400 miles away.

They are on my list when I get down that way.
 
Rusty Ron's at Island Marina, Morehead City NC (many OEM surplus parts and other stuff)

Island Marina -Rusty Ron's Marine Surplus warehouse

Jarrett Bay Surplus, Beaufort NC (lots of take outs from a big boat yard)

Marine Parts, Surplus & Salvage | Jarrett Bay Boatworks

Jarrett Bay is too hit and miss. They are not there every day so if you drive down from New Bern you might waste a trip.

Rusty Ron's started out being competitive several years ago but now they want within a few bucks of WM. Also before they would come to an agreement price but as of lately they seem not to care. What it is marked take it or leave it. Cash was king but not so much any more.
 
Rather than ask a stupid question, I googled "what is a slough?"

noun
1. an area of soft, muddy ground; swamp or swamplike region.
2. a hole full of mire, as in a road.
3. Also, slew, slue. Northern U.S. and Canadian. a marshy or reedy pool, pond, inlet, backwater, or the like.
4. a condition of degradation, despair, or helplessness.

I know I've been in #4 plenty of times.

I don't think I'd want to anchor in a swamp, a hole in the road or a reedy pool. "Inlet" and "backwater" make sense, but somehow I think you have something more specific in mind.

Is this a left-coast thing?
 
Rather than ask a stupid question, I googled "what is a slough?"

noun
1. an area of soft, muddy ground; swamp or swamplike region.
2. a hole full of mire, as in a road.
3. Also, slew, slue. Northern U.S. and Canadian. a marshy or reedy pool, pond, inlet, backwater, or the like.
4. a condition of degradation, despair, or helplessness.

I know I've been in #4 plenty of times.

I don't think I'd want to anchor in a swamp, a hole in the road or a reedy pool. "Inlet" and "backwater" make sense, but somehow I think you have something more specific in mind.

Is this a left-coast thing?

No, it is another name for a channel through shallower water, such as Big Foot Slough leading from the Pamlico Sound to Ocracoke, or Frying Pan Slough through the Frying Pan Shoal off Cape Fear. In California, they are the mostly man made channels between the "islands" created by levees and drainage.
 
No, it is another name for a channel through shallower water, such as Big Foot Slough leading from the Pamlico Sound to Ocracoke, or Frying Pan Slough through the Frying Pan Shoal off Cape Fear. In California, they are the mostly man made channels between the "islands" created by levees and drainage.

Thanks, guess I've spent too much time isolated in the Northeast. Not only did I ask a stupid question, but I asked it in the wrong thread! I have a bad habit of opening multiple threads in different tabs. Guess I went back to the wrong one to post, sorry!
 
That's OK. There's always Ritalin... ;-)
 
Wikipedia`s "secondary channel of a river delta" is more enticing than "mudhole". Either way I`d run the washdown pump when the anchor came up.
 
My first thread hijack. I feel sort of unclean ;)

Anyway, I had this thread open because I really AM interested in marine salvage parts. I figure after hurricane Sandy there should be tons of good equipment and parts on the market, and I need quite a few. But it doesn't seem to be happening. And quite frankly, the prices I'm seeing so far aren't all that good.

It seems to me there's an opportunity for an enterprising young person to scour the insurance company bone yards and recover salable items before the boats go to the crusher.
 
My first thread hijack. I feel sort of unclean ;)

Anyway, I had this thread open because I really AM interested in marine salvage parts. I figure after hurricane Sandy there should be tons of good equipment and parts on the market, and I need quite a few. But it doesn't seem to be happening. And quite frankly, the prices I'm seeing so far aren't all that good.

It seems to me there's an opportunity for an enterprising young person to scour the insurance company bone yards and recover salable items before the boats go to the crusher.

I think you have to buy the whole boat in order to scrap it.
 
It seems to me there's an opportunity for an enterprising young person to scour the insurance company bone yards and recover salable items before the boats go to the crusher.

As Beachbum has said. The insurance company owns the boat. They won't let anyone take parts without buying the boat from them (insurance company). No one will buy the boats because after the usable parts are taken off there is no "crusher" like in cars to get rid of them. Fiberglass hulls are a problem as far as scrape goes.

How to Scrap a Fiberglass Boat Hull | eHow.com
 
I assume that if nobody buys the boat (which must be most of the time), the insurance company has to pay someone to scrap it.

It seems they would be open to a business proposition that would lower the cost of scrapping.

But maybe I'm living in a fantasy world where big companies do things that make sense. I'll go read some more Dilbert cartoons, then I'll be fine.
 
I assume that if nobody buys the boat (which must be most of the time), the insurance company has to pay someone to scrap it.

It seems they would be open to a business proposition that would lower the cost of scrapping.

But maybe I'm living in a fantasy world where big companies do things that make sense. I'll go read some more Dilbert cartoons, then I'll be fine.

There are salvage auctions where you can buy these boats.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom