anyone use engine water for heat

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We have the ITR LH2 installed. ITR has a Heat Exchanger that is designed to take the heat from your engine and use it to heat your heating system water to reduce the need for the ITR boiler to run.
 
Foul hot water can be a symptom of a magnesium anode that has wasted away in the water heater.
 
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Chuck Gould said:
Our boat uses a Webasto hydronic heater when we're not underway, or during the first 20-30 minutes after startup. Once we get up to operating temp, I throw a switch that changes from "system heat" to "engine heat". The engine coolant circulates through the same radiators as the diesel fired heat, so there aren't any "extra" outlets to work around and the amount of heat from each register is (somewhat) regulated by switching the fan to either low, high, or off.
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I have same setup on my Hurricane hydronic system. The engine coolant at about 170F goes to a small HX with the hydronic coolant going to the other side of the same of the same HX. Using aquastats, once the engine coolant heats the hydronic coolant up to operating temperature (about 150F) the diesel furnace kicks off. A schematic of a Webasto, Kabola or Hurricane system will detail the setup. Or ask your friendly installer of hydronic systems.
 
HenryD said:
We have the ITR LH2 installed. ITR has a Heat Exchanger that is designed to take the heat from your engine and use it to heat your heating system water to reduce the need for the ITR boiler to run.
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I'm sorry, i dont understand. Whats an ITR?
 
VikingBay said:
Fill your tank with 1/4 cup bleach. Then flush it really good with several (10+) tankfuls. Then refill and add 1 oz of peppermint oil.
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Thanks, good idea to do several flushes. The bleach if clorine will kill pathogens and the peppermint oil will mask oders but how do we remove the contaminants instead of just covering them up? This is kinda like the slice of lemon in the water at the restruant that dosent wish to filter the drinking water just wants you to think they do.
 
Floyd. Depending on the type of motor you have you should have a hose from and to the motor. This hose circulates the engine coolant to your water heater and any other things like a red dot or what ever you have.

When you say hot water from the engine are you refering to coolant or water from the sea (or raw water)as it is called.

All you need to do is hook a heater unit to the hose off the engine and back to the engine again.

Unless i don't understand your question.
If so never mind.
 
skipperdude said:
Floyd. Depending on the type of motor you have you should have a hose from and to the motor. This hose circulates the engine coolant to your water heater and any other things like a red dot or what ever you have.

When you say hot water from the engine are you refering to coolant or water from the sea (or raw water)as it is called.

All you need to do is hook a heater unit to the hose off the engine and back to the engine again.

Unless i don't understand your question.
If so never mind.
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I'm sorry,I apolojize for my poor use of words, maybe I am confused. There as been mention of hot engine water, or coolant, heating that also useing diesel fuel heating. Someone mentioned using the diesel heat untill the engine warmed up them switching to engine hot water for heat out of the same heater and i thought that was a good idea. Just havent seen it in person yet but that would be nice
 
The Coot's engine heat warms up the hot-water tank, as well as providing ambient heat to the living spaces, slight as it might. Doubt that's unusual.
 
markpierce said:
The Coot's engine heat warms up the hot-water tank, as well as providing ambient heat to the living spaces, slight as it might. Doubt that's unusual.
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no, the contrary, very useful. Thants what i was looking for however, because of other posts, I'm wondering about a heater that uses engine water and diesel fuel to produce heat in the cabin
thanks
 
The Coot's water heater in this during-construction photo is under the white rag and temporary blue-plastic covering. (Air compressor to the left, white battery box in front.)

img_132212_0_c8d35f155c741edc46a0c2c4513db8df.jpg
 
bfloyd4445 said:
Thanks, good idea to do several flushes. The bleach if clorine will kill pathogens and the peppermint oil will mask oders but how do we remove the contaminants instead of just covering them up?
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Just keep filling and draining. Each cycle will dillute the contaminants. Bleach will have no effect on antifreeze.

Note: There is a check valve in the water heater that can impede draining because it creates a vacuum in the tank. Open the TP valve as well as the drain valve to get around the check valve issue.
 
bfloyd4445 said:
Thanks, good idea to do several flushes. The bleach if clorine will kill pathogens and the peppermint oil will mask oders but how do we remove the contaminants instead of just covering them up? This is kinda like the slice of lemon in the water at the restruant that dosent wish to filter the drinking water just wants you to think they do.
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Yes as mentioned, just keep flushing. Simple green will help too but it will also require flushing and hot water would be even better.
 
VikingBay said:
Yes as mentioned, just keep flushing. Simple green will help too but it will also require flushing and hot water would be even better.
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simple green contains compounds that are carcinogenic and not for skin contact. Its on the label. That stuff is a good engine cleaner. Just spray it on, wait a few then wash off with water.
 
That's bullshit. You can read the MSDS for Simple Green here:
http://www.kandelandson.com/msds/Simple Green.pdf

Excerpt:
The only ingredient of Simple Green​
​
​
​
® with established exposure limits is undiluted 2-butoxyethanol (<6%) (Butyl Cellosolve;
CAS No. 111-76-2): the OSHA PEL and ACGIH TLV is 25 ppm (skin). Note, however, that Butyl Cellosolve is only one of
the raw material ingredients that undergo processing and dilution during the manufacture of Simple Green®. Upon completion
of the manufacturing process, Simple Green® does not possess the occupational health risks associated with exposure to
undiluted Butyl Cellosolve. Verification of this is contained in the independent test results detailed under “Toxicological
Information” on Page 3 of this MSDS.
The Butyl Cellosolve in Simple Green® is part of a chemical category (glycol ethers) regulated by the Emergency Planning
and Community Right-to-Know Act (SARA, Title III, section 313); therefore, a reporting requirement exists. Based upon
chemical analysis, Simple Green® contains no known EPA priority pollutants, heavy metals, or chemicals listed under RCRA,
CERCLA, or CWA. Analysis by TCLP (Toxicity Characteristic Leaching Procedure) according to RCRA revealed no toxic
organic or inorganic constituents.​


 
I wouldn't put anything into my boat's potable water system that's not safe to drink, the exception being chlorine bleach which is diluted and rinsed out before the system is put back into use. Chlorine is used by city water systems to dissinfect water and is considered safe in the amount they use.
 
Keith said:
That's bullshit. You can read the MSDS for Simple Green here:
http://www.kandelandson.com/msds/Simple%20Green.pdf

Your right, not bs just old info the formula has been upgraded since 2006 but it does still have these chemicals according to your list:

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]CDC - Immediately Dangerous to Life or Health Concentrations (IDLH): n-Butyl acetate - NIOSH Publications and Products[/FONT]

http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/npg/npgd0070.html

http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/83-112/


all of which made IDLH < immediately dangerous to life and heath > limits from 1700 ppm to less than 700ppm < parts per million >

chuckle, and even though its so so safe:) simple green advises immediately washing from your skin if exposed. Wonder why if its so safe? Maybe they are afraid it may react with other chemicals that may be upon your skin? I knoiw what your thinking, however, if simple green didn't react with other chemicals it wouldn't be much good as a cleaner would it?

I was a volunteer emergency responder for many years, partly because i loved the over time, and partly becuase I enjoyed the thrill. What i soon gained an appreciation for was how often I would find dangerous so called harmless chemicals like simple green, household ammonia, clorine bleach etc. used by citizens in a haphazard ways only becuse the label says they are safe. I helped one lady in her early forties that ended up in the morgue from breathing fumes for years from common household cleaners. She made extra money cleaning vacated apartments and loved ammoina and bleach. Our chemists informed me that clorine bleach and ammonia will produce phosgene gas < IDLH 2ppm >a product that was used in the trenches of ww1 and destroyed the soldiers lungs.

As for simple green i love the stuff. But, it should be handled like all chemicals with care if you wish to live to a ripe old age
Click to expand...
 
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rwidman said:
I wouldn't put anything into my boat's potable water system that's not safe to drink, the exception being chlorine bleach which is diluted and rinsed out before the system is put back into use. Chlorine is used by city water systems to dissinfect water and is considered safe in the amount they use.
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my sentiments exactly. bleach is a wonderful tool if used properly at the correct concentration for the job at hand. My problem with supermarket bleach is they are often contaminated by the manufacturer with other substances for various purposes. I wish they were just plane bleach and no additives except water to dilute them to the proper concentration.
 
Phosgene is made by heating refrigerant. Clorox and ammonia makes clorimine gas.
 
Northern Spy said:
Phosgene is made by heating refrigerant. Clorox and ammonia makes clorimine gas.
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they are naturally produced by the breakdown of organoclorine compounds such as those in refrigerants, ammonia is a refrigerant. the question came up and our chemist explained the reaction to us one day and said phosgene smells like mown hay or green corn.
Here are some other names for it from the NIOSH pocket guide Carbon oxychloride, Carbonyl chloride, Carbonyl dichloride, Chloroformyl chloride
 
bfloyd4445 said:
they are naturally produced by the breakdown of organoclorine compounds such as those in refrigerants, ammonia is a refrigerant. the question came up and our chemist explained the reaction to us one day and said phosgene smells like mown hay or green corn.
Here are some other names for it from the NIOSH pocket guide Carbon oxychloride, Carbonyl chloride, Carbonyl dichloride, Chloroformyl chloride
Click to expand...

Ammonia, NH3, is a refrigerant because of its low boiling point. It is not an organochlorine compound. No C or Cl.
 
manyboats said:
We rarely use the bus heater as the fan is noisy.
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I got a good buy on some new surplus bus heaters when I installed the Hurricane heater on my CHB but changed the fans to very quiet "muffin" fans and installed a hi/med/low speed switch with resistors for speed control and virtually silent operation.
 
Many of the engine surveyors I deal with do not like to see hot water heated by engine cooling water. However if there is a shut off valve close to the engine on the water hose to the heater, they suggest the line be closed except when needed. The reason being that if that hose fails you could overheat an engine. If you run a generator most of the time it is best not to take a risk with an extra hose in the cooling sysytem.
 
yachtbrokerguy said:
Many of the engine surveyors I deal with do not like to see hot water heated by engine cooling water. However if there is a shut off valve close to the engine on the water hose to the heater, they suggest the line be closed except when needed. The reason being that if that hose fails you could overheat an engine. ........
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And yet just about every boat with a water heater has this feature. :confused:

The guy who surveyed my boat (he has a good reputation in my area) said nothing about this and did not make any recommendations regarding closing the valves.
 
Northern Spy said:
Ammonia, NH3, is a refrigerant because of its low boiling point. It is not an organochlorine compound. No C or Cl.
Click to expand...

your right. wonder what he was refering to when he cautioned us?...that was ten years ago.
Geez...can't get nuttin bye you guys:)
aint that great
 
If you run a generator most of the time it is best not to take a risk with an extra hose in the cooling sysytem.

You gotta be kidding!!

The number of hoses on the propulsion engine , air cond , water maker, hydronic heat and HW system are no problem?

But one extra hose on a device that is factory built with an over temp shut down is a risk to the vessel?

To stop problems most folks would do far better installing mechanical gauges and an auto shut down system on the propulsion engine(s).

HW from the noisemaker is called CO GENERATION, a great talking point when those greenies get going with their co2 HOAX talk.
 
bfloyd4445 said:
simple green contains compounds that are carcinogenic and not for skin contact. Its on the label. That stuff is a good engine cleaner. Just spray it on, wait a few then wash off with water.
Click to expand...

It will rinse just fine, which is what he'll need to do to get the glycol out anyway. One way or another, 10x+ the volume of the tank will have to pass through this tank anyway to flush it out. Simple green is used in restaurants and many other places food or human consumables are near and perfectly safe when rinse properly.
No one, especially me, is advocating leaving any traceable amounts of Simple Green left in the tank.
Again, the hotter the water the better to thoroughly flush it.
 
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