Leaks!! >:(

Greetings,
Mr. Keith. You're correct. I have only had experience with the "common" silicone. I retract my comments in reference to the "flowable" type of silicone available at auto parts stores as I, as you suggested, have no experience with it. I based my comments on 35 years or so of working with silicone oils, greases and sealants which I will NOT have on a boat and exhibit the characteristics I mentioned. Apologies.

Now back to fixing the leak!

The primary importants is to find the leak and fix it then make it pretty. As mentioned before the leak may not be the windows, just where the leak is showing up. That has happened to me several times. The way to find out is to cover the whole area, deck, railings, with a tarp, but let the window exposed. If the leak stops you then know its not the windows. Being the Eagle is sway back the water drain back and shows up at the center of the boat, but the leak may be at the bow. Rail and deck fasteners are primary areas to look. Anyway use what ever you feel like. 5200 is still my choise.

Greetings,
The OP was asking for a quick and dirty fix in order to sell the boat. (I agree Mr. Hendo. Somewhat pisses me off as well). My suggestions were based on the NEXT owner when he/she will potentially do a proper fix. For the same reason if the teak on "my" boat were ever to be painted, I would surely put a couple of coats of sealer (Cetol etc.) on to lessen the future owners, or my own grief should he/she/me decide to strip said paint in the future.

I apoligize back RT. I have about the same experience with some of it in the R&D field, but I guess your experience must be better than mine, even when you have no experience with my material or technique. And why would you want to varnish deep down inside a crack? Would either of you like to relate which common household chemical can remove silicone residue?

Greetings,
Mr. Keith. As I mentioned, you're automotive silicone may work. I've seen paint able household caulk in the stores that advertize "contains silicone".
As for a solvent. One of the aromatic hydrocarbons....Toluene, benzene...damn, I can't remember which...Most probably toluene. Chromic acid was the "solvent" of choice for impermeable materials (glazed ceramics, glass etc.)...Ah, NOT your common household chemical.
As Mr. FF mentioned, the bulk of the caulk can readily be scraped off and the more you can scrape off, the less solvent necessary.
I didn't work with silicone's on a daily basis but over the years I came to be VERY wary of both cleanliness and diligent use of the stuff. One oily fingerprint would get spread all over. The stuff is GREAT for aquariums, tubs and toilets, some automotive flange applications and a plethora of other uses but boats? Not mine. Overreaction? Most probably.