Leaks!! >:(

How do I fix leaks around the window without taking the windows out, would caulk work, and if so what kind of caulk???

3M 5200. however the leak may not be from around the window, but the frame and or the drain holes are plugged or need to be changed so water can not pool in the tracks. Finding and fixing leaks takes investigating, and trail/error.

deancrenshaw55 said:

How do I fix leaks around the window without taking the windows out, would caulk work, and if so what kind of caulk???

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Mate read this

http://marinesurvey.com/yacht/WindowRepair.htm

Cheers
Hendo

iPad Forum Runner

deancrenshaw55 said:

How do I fix leaks around the window without taking the windows out, would caulk work, and if so what kind of caulk???

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I would not use 5200 as a caulk for a window. 3M says, "For bonding and sealing applications above and below the water line when removal at a later date is not anticipated." 5200 is about as permanent as you can get on a boat. If the window is not going to be removed, chances are, any repair will be temporary.

Here's a link to on leaking windows.

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s3/window-leaks-8111.html

I have already used 5200 and I have had no success

deancrenshaw55 said:

I have already used 5200 and I have had no success

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If you could give more detail and or picture we can help you better. If its as bad as the picture below then more the 5200 will be required.

5200 as permanent by any means. With a little elbow grease, flexible sharp putty knife and/or a wire wheel, 5200 can be removed. Every year I strip large areas/sections. Epoxy is what I consider permanent.

If you want to do it right do it right. Take out the window and redo them or caulk the sh** out of them with any caulk you like for a quick temporary fix. At least it will tell you if the windows them selfs are leaking. Or it is coming in from else where and just showing up at the windows.

SD

There is no way around it. And it's not that bad. Take the frame and window apart. Rebuild the frame, replace the tracks, replace the rotted wood, caulk it carefully and put it all back together.

You're good for another 10 years.

They go by fast.

Repeat.

Depends on what any PO might have done to the windows...If there was any kind of adhesive caulk used...and depending on how the window was rebedded...good luck on a simple remval..out of 16 windows I replaced...I'd say it would have taken a majician to break less than 10 of the glass windows and 16 of the frames...

I am about to sell the boat and I'd rather do just a quick fix.

5200 is about the worst choice possible, as the OP has discovered. No UV resistance for one thing. It does sound like the frames are leaking, but at the very least the glass needs rebedding, using a poly sulfide glazing compound or butyl rubber. Whichever the root cause is, unless it is done the right way you accomplish nothing. Merely swabbing some sort of caulk around the window is a losing effort. Any kind of knowledgable buyer or their surveyor will see through the shoddy fix in an instant.

I am also thinking about using polybutylene, do any of you know if that would work?

deancrenshaw55 said:

I am about to sell the boat and I'd rather do just a quick fix.

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You would be better off and money ahead not to fix the leak at all and disclose it to the prospective buyer. When I looked at a boat with half assed repair work I left without explaining why. Harsh yes, but in my experience it was a waste of time and breath to explain that half ass repairs where worse than no repair at all.

Can't believe how many people waste time and money with 5200. There's no magic goo in a tube that will do the job right.

JMO YMMV

CPseudonym said:

You would be better off and money ahead not to fix the leak at all and disclose it to the prospective buyer.

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This is my vote too. Just leave it, tell the next owner about it, and let them fix it the way THEY want it done.

GonzoF1 said:

This is my vote too. Just leave it, tell the next owner about it, and let them fix it the way THEY want it done.

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If not repairing even 1/2 ass means there can/will be further damage then its better than doing nothing. There is a good chance the actual leak may not be from, around the window. The window is where its coming out.

So if does the leak change with the chance in the trim, pitch of the boat. Had one leak that changed with the pitch of the boat. If you can explain or give some detail it would help.

deancrenshaw55 said:

I have already used 5200 and I have had no success

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Boatlife polysulfide will kick off in the presence of moisture, so if that is present, it can work. Sikaflex 295 UV is designed for the purpose. 5200 would be a bad choice, but it sounds like you have already failed with that one.

deancrenshaw55 said:

I am also thinking about using polybutylene, do any of you know if that would work?

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Don't think so. It might react with the Lexan, if that is what you have. Use the product designed for this job, which would be Sikaflex 295 UV, or a polysulfide. If moisture is present, use polysulfide. Taping is the biggest hassle, but also the key to a nice looking job.

You can try flowable silicone caulk. It's the consistency of cold honey and flows down into cracks etc., then cures up. It's clear and can be found at any auto parts place.

Greetings,
If he uses silicone it will be a nightmare for the next owner. For a "quick/cheap and dirty" half vast repair, pretty well ANY caulk will do even that $3 a tube household stuff at Lowes. It won't last long and will probably look like crap and as mentioned anybody would see it for what it was but Mr. 55 has already attempted a repair which failed. Too late to just leave it. At least the cheap caulk should be easy to remove for the new owner AND it should temporarily stop the leak IF he can find the source. By all means disclose to prospective buyers.
I have had occasion to use El Cheapo caulk a few times. It served it's purpose until a proper repair was done.

s,
If he uses silicone it will be a nightmare for the next owner.

?????


Silicone is cheap , sticks to glass plexiglass or lexan , and the clear stuff scrapes off with the side of a chisel.

Great for a patch job , that will get a real repair "later".

Greetings,
Mr. FF. You're right about cheap and sticky but it's nigh on impossible to remove all traces. Yes, you can remove the bulk of it by scraping but any residual material left will not allow one to paint or varnish-won't stick.

It would be interesting to see you try to remove all traces of silicone from 1/2" down inside a crack. My repairs using this stuff have NEVER required further attention. Probably because it works so well.

Greetings,
Fair enough Mr. Keith. My experience has been just the opposite.

RT Firefly said:

Greetings,
Fair enough Mr. Keith. My experience has been just the opposite.

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So have mine.

deancrenshaw55 said:

I am about to sell the boat and I'd rather do just a quick fix.

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Fwoar .... reading this pisses me off !!!! ...

RT Firefly said:

Greetings,
Fair enough Mr. Keith. My experience has been just the opposite.

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I'm with you RT.

So both of you have used flowable silicone to stop leaks with poor results?

Keith said:

So both of you have used flowable silicone to stop leaks with poor results?

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Not what I'm saying. My point is that You can't possibly expect to remove all traces of silicone and paint or varnish over it and expect the paint to stick.

iPad Forum Runner

So don't knock my fix if you've never tried it. You're just talking blah blah about silicone in general.

Keith said:

So don't knock my fix if you've never tried it. You're just talking blah blah about silicone in general.

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Hahahaha OMG seriously??? You are making no sense at all or perhaps you're speaking to the voices in your head?!

Don't snarl at me because you're insecure about your half arsed fix. Perhaps you should get down off your high horse and re read what I said. Please show me where i knocked your "fix" I couldn't care less if you want to use silicone. Pull your head cupcake!

iPad Forum Runner