Trick Davit Dinghy System

Gonzo,
No offense but I don't think they're trying to "milk" you for money. They are, however trying to charge you for all the services rendered ....... That is moorage measured in feet. Why should you get testy about paying an honest price for the actual moorage measured in feet?
I repeat ... No offense.

If you are in a slip...the extra charge is pure bull...you pay for the slip size....especially if electric is separate.

On a face dock I can see it, especially when you are traveling during a peak season...but I have been in different marina's now every night for 3 weeks and they not only do NOT charge for overhang stuff...they generally don't argue about if I say the boat is one size or another even though it has Albin 40 on the side. (I too usually round up to 40 or more when the dock price is fair...but the marinas billing top dollar that have their water turned off, showers winterized, wifi disabled and still trying to get more than $2 bucks a foot when the whole harbor has dropped to $1.50 or less is getting my 39 feet and small change remark)

Yes as far as slips go one should pay for the slip. Having nothing to do w the length of the boat but also I think there should be NO overhangs in either direction in a public facility. With private it's their call.

Most marinas allow a specific overhang and it should be adhered to. One should'nt need to dodge 15 anchors and their bow pulpits on the way to one's boat. And when your'e maneuvering in the fairway there shouldn't be boats, dinks or hiked up OBs w SS props stick'in out in your path.

I think if you've got a 40' slip you should pay for the whole slip and not take up ANY more space at all.

It's like parking those big bed 4 dr pick up trucks in a regular parking spot right up close to the front door of whatever. They just don't fit in a regular parking spot. One should AT LEAST have the courtesy to park in the furthest corner of the parking lot.

People in our culture are just grabbing all they can get for themselves w no consideration for others. On this one (as you can see) I'm a grumpy old man.

Gonzo what are the grey areas? I don't think ther'e should be.

When we stopped in Westport, WA they charged us by our documented length, 43 feet.

At a few locations in Southern CA, they measured the vessel or they charged by slip length, which ever was greater. If you are 40' in a 50' slip, you are charged for 50'. If you are 40' in a 38 foot slip they charged you for a 40' slip.

Most places we have been take your word for it though.

markpierce said:

Hmm, this does show the disadvantage of a foldable swim platform (which I always keep folded up.)

Click to expand...

Hey Mark the next time she is out of the water. Could you take a pic of how the swim step is mounted. especially at the attachment point. It is a sweet set up I would like to do something similar on my boat.
Thanks

sd

After a lot of looking and research we have decided to go with the Trick system also. I spoke with Jim today and he could not be nicer. He had thoughtful answers to all my questions.

Also looked at the St. Croix tip up davit. My concern with that one was that it seemed to me that it should have some cross bracing. Could be wrong on that. Defender has one on clearence now for $375.00!

Will let everyone know how it works out.

Rob

I have read this thread as well as others and I am trying to decide which way I want to go for our 40' Sedan bridge trawler. I like the idea of the Trick and Hurley davits, but am getting a little concerned about lifting my 10', 105 lb dink with the 135 lb 15hp Yamaha. Does anyone with this type of davit have a dinghy set up as heavy as mine and, if so, how difficult is it to lift?
Thanks,
Wm Mayberry
OPTIMYSTIQUE
Mariner 40

We have a 11.5 ft rib with a 25hp Mercury. total weight is around 360lbs. We reenforced our teak swim step and installed a Sea Wise manual davit system. If I remember correctly the weight limit is about 400lb. Have had it on for four years and so far not a problem. They are kinda pricey but I believe the quality is there.

Rather than start a new thread about davits, I found one that may work. What I want:

-Transom mount as not to interfere with the aft deck
-Nothing mounted on the swim platform
-I have a Mercury 9 1/2 foot hard bottom dink
-Would like to leave the motor and gas on the dink hooked up
-We plan to cover it up when not in use
-Boat is an Albin 36'

I'm looking at davit systems. Kingston makes the D-352 which mounts on the transom. It seems to tick off all of the check boxes I want. Does anyone have experience with this and possible pictures? This system holds 350lbs which is just fine.

Any thoughts?

mike habersack

Trick Davit System

Hi there everyone,

I know this thread is quite old but I'm hoping someone can help me solve the following problem. I purchased this system and got it shipped all the way to Canada. It has extended brackets and need to be installed on the swim platform using screws 4inch long that are part of the package and bolts to be installed from underneath the platform. Most swim platform are thin enough and the 4" screws can go all the way down through the platform and hold the brackets in place once the bolts are screwed on. In my case, the swim platform is too thick and I would need screws 3 times longer to go all the way from the top to underneath the platform and be able to put the bolts on. Any suggestions? Thanks

Eddy, can you post pics of your swimstep,and a link to the system you bought. If you need screws 1ft long when those normally supplied are 4"long,it`s an unusual problem, and more info might help.

Perhaps stainless threaded rod? Available @ McMaster Carr (McMaster.com) as well as associated nuts and washers.

Eddy:

Can you pivot the mount 90°, then you can mount it through the transom. You will need backing plates, but the transom will hold the weight.

Eddy said:

Hi there everyone,

I know this thread is quite old but I'm hoping someone can help me solve the following problem. I purchased this system and got it shipped all the way to Canada. It has extended brackets and need to be installed on the swim platform using screws 4inch long that are part of the package and bolts to be installed from underneath the platform. Most swim platform are thin enough and the 4" screws can go all the way down through the platform and hold the brackets in place once the bolts are screwed on. In my case, the swim platform is too thick and I would need screws 3 times longer to go all the way from the top to underneath the platform and be able to put the bolts on. Any suggestions? Thanks

Click to expand...

Buy stainless steel bolts (316 ss) of the same size and long enough to meet your needs. Make sure the threads are the same or you'll need to buy a new set of matching nuts. You don't NEED to use the hardware that was shipped. Just make sure the hardware is appropriate for the environment.

FYI, I haven't seen much 316 ss stock at the box stores. You may need to go to a ship chandler or order the hardware online.

Eddy
From your description I'm guessing you have a molded swim deck.
If so I don't think its wise to through bolt as it will puts lots of stress on the thin sections if / when you tighten the "bolts" or threaded rods.

If so, is it integral to the boat or bolted on?
Is there any way to get access from inside the transom?
Even enough to cut an access hole and install a cover plate / hatch?

I Helped a friend mount a dingy hoist on a molded platform.
He made up backer plates that were drilled w the same bolt hole pattern as the mounts and tapped for the bolts. All we had to do is push the plates into the hollow swim deck...taped to a wooden stick..and get 2 bolts started. That allowed tightening of bolts against the solid upper layer of the hollow deck with a solid backer plate.

If no inside access the other alternative is to cut an access hole outside on the swim deck between where the mounts will go and use the hole to do as outlined above. Lastly install a trim ring/ screw on cover plate to close the access hole.

Bacchus said:

Eddy
From your description I'm guessing you have a molded swim deck.
If so I don't think its wise to through bolt as it will puts lots of stress on the thin sections if / when you tighten the "bolts" or threaded rods.

Click to expand...

I haven't done it on hollow FRP structures, but would it be possible to glass in compression tubes, flush at the top and bottom, allowing long rods to pass through them and tighten without crushing the structure?

TomandJeri said:

I haven't done it on hollow FRP structures, but would it be possible to glass in compression tubes, flush at the top and bottom, allowing long rods to pass through them and tighten without crushing the structure?

Click to expand...

I suppose the concept would take care of the issue I raised. I know thats exactly what is done w cored FG but that can be done by filling an oversized plug and re drilling... notnpractical w a hollow deck.

The problem I would anticipate would be how to get a strong water tight attachment when you cant access the backside to at least build up a fillet.

TomandJeri said:

I haven't done it on hollow FRP structures, but would it be possible to glass in compression tubes, flush at the top and bottom, allowing long rods to pass through them and tighten without crushing the structure?

Click to expand...

+1

The following is how I mounted Trick davits on our North Pacific 39. From the top platform is about 4" thick. Glass, 1" foam core. 2" air space, 1" core and glass.

My goal was to make a strong connection that would never leak into the platform and coring or deflect when tightning the davit feet bolts.

Sorry I don't know how to add comments between photos.

Rob

1. Locate and clamp feet to platform, drill holes.

2. Cut out bottom of platform outside drilled holes, about 6" X 6". Photo of glass and core.

3.Reef out coring bottom side of top skin

4. Build compression blocks out of plywood. Epoxy coat and screw together. Drill 4 1" holes through each block and coat inside of holes with epoxy.

5. Mix up thickened epoxy, fill 1" holes in compression blocks, reefed out coring and bed block in same. Photo shows end result.

6. Three layers of cloth over cut out.

7. Cut wood template, clamp davit foot on top, template on bottom. Re-drill holes through 1" epoxy filled holes in compression blocks.

8. Stainless steel backing plates made from wood templates.

I know this a old thread but there are not many reviews online about the trick Davit system. I purchased a set of Davits used in very good shape, and I need the 14” extension mount for my Carver. My platform is 32”. My question is after the Davit is extended 14” are you still able to grab it and pull it up? Or is it to far away? Thanks much!

Thanecarver said:

I know this a old thread but there are not many reviews online about the trick Davit system. I purchased a set of Davits used in very good shape, and I need the 14” extension mount for my Carver. My platform is 32”. My question is after the Davit is extended 14” are you still able to grab it and pull it up? Or is it to far away? Thanks much!

Click to expand...

You should be able to reach out and grab the dinghy, even with the extensions. I have 2 neighbors with the extensions who've never complained about it.

Trick Davit dinghy carrier

Has anyone purchased and installed a Trick Davit system? I have tried a Hurley system and I can't pull my dinghy up on the platform. I have an AB fiberglass bottom 9' with a 15hp Yamaha motor. Combined weight is approx. 250#s.
Trick Davit tell me it will be easy to pull up with their system. I hate to spend another $1000+ and find it doesn't work. I ask for some references where owners with fiberglass bottom dinghies have been sold but the owner doesn't want to share any due to privacy issues. Strange to me.

any suggestions

DazeOff in Clearwater Fl

I have had trick davits on our Mainship 400 for about 5 years now. We have a 11' Caribe Light (RIB) with a 20 hp Suzuki 4 stroke. Despite it's name, the dinghy is pretty heavy for what it is. I know that the actual weight is a good bit heavier than Caribe publishes.


Mostly the Trick Davits have been good. The owner was nice to work with. The Dink is easy to launch and rides really well there. I secure it to the boat with criss crossing ratchet straps from the interior bow eye of the dink and the aftmost lifting eye on the transom of the dink to the stern cleats on the big boat.


Two issues.


1. It's not as easy to load the dink as advertised. Or at least not ours, which is pretty heavy. With a small/light dink it would be easier. I use a 4 way sailboat block tied off to the base of the rail on the flybridge deck over the cockpit. I clip the block system to the stern of the dink and pull the stern 1/2 way up. I then pull the bow up using the bow painter (no block) and then the stern the rest of the way. I can load it alone that way, takes 5 to 10 minutes. Without the block system it would be very difficult, if not impossible. I have two teenage sons and I am quite fit, but it would be a bear even for three of us.


2. The center plate on the davit arms are made of starboard and are just not robust enough. I broke 4 of them (they sent me free replacements) in 18 months. Eventually, I gave up and took a plate to a machine shop who duplicated them in 1/2" thick aluminum for me. That worked great. Again, if you had a really light dink this may not be a problem, but the plates are pretty delicate. I broke one when I bumped the davit arms with the dinghy when loading in choppy seas. Perhaps he has addressed this issue.



Hope that helps. You can PM me if you have questions.


Doug

I had one on the NP 39. Total of 192 lbs with the outboard attached. Tough to do alone, a breeze with Diane's help. You may be approaching the limit of pulling by hand at 250 lbs.

Maybe a winch or block and tackle at that weight.

Rob