what to look for in a trawler?

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
See posts with no answers
Marin said:
Actually, I'm not all that impressed with it. I feel the topsides are out of proportion to the hull (topsides too tall, hull too squat) and those oversize pilothouse windows gave the boat a Walt Disney cartoon look. The bow is too raked for the style of the boat.
Click to expand...

Agree.
 
RMoore said:
What kind of maintenance is recommended for SS diesel fuel tanks?
Click to expand...

Bob--- The five new tanks the PO had fabricated for our boat to replace the boat's three original iron tanks are stainless. When we had the boat surveyed these tanks were only a year old. The surveyor said that stainless tanks are not approved by the ABYC (this was in 1998). The reason he gave is that there is stainless and there is stainless. Even with the same alloy number the quality can vary greatly.

The same thing is true of the welds. Heating stainless in welding changes the steel's properties to the point where its "stainless" attributes can be reduced or go away entirely. So the quality of the welds is critical to the integrity and longevity of a stainless tank. Poor welds can lead to crevice corrosion and pin holing when the metal is deprived of oxygen as they are when the tanks sit full of fuel.

Because of all the variables possible with a stainless tank, the ABYC did not consider it an "approved" material for fuel tanks. I have heard this ruling has since been changed but I don't know for sure so don't assume I've heard right.

The surveyor said that as long as we moved fuel though the tanks regularly and the welds were exposed to oxygen periodically this would help hold weld problems at bay (if there were going to be weld problems).

He also said that while stainless was not a good choice for fuel tanks he was familiar with boats in the SFO Bay area that had had stainless tanks installed many, manay years earlier and were so far doing just fine. So it all depends on the quality of the metal and the welds.

So this plus not wanting to have fuel sit on the boat very long anyway prompted us to develop the fuel management procedure we have used since acquiring the boat.

All our tanks gravity feed from their lowest points so there is really no maintenance necessary to the tanks as nothing stays in a tank when it's emptied. We've never gotten any water or dirt in the bowls of the Racor filters the fuel runs through on the way to the engines. The tanks were made with large inspection ports but we have had no reason to remove them.

So maintenance-wise, I dunno. You can polish them if you like, I guess.:) We use bug killer and a fuel conditioner in our fuel, for what that's worth although neither one has any effect, good, bad, or indifferent, on the tanks themselves.

If someone was contemplating new tanks for a boat I would not recommend stainless for the reasons stated by the surveyor (at this point I'm assuming that what he told us is correct). If we had to re-tank our boat, or if someone asked us what to use for new tanks, I would recommend what Grand Banks themselves are now using for fuel tanks, which is composite.

Although an iron tank if properly made, protected, and installed can last a hell of a long time.
 
Last edited:
Northern Spy said:
Photo 29 has an interesting shaft packing modification.
Click to expand...

#28 looks like it is some kind of shield to keep any water from slinging all over the compartment. Seems like a pretty good idea. The engines are spotless. Not a smear or drip. The rocker covers shine. The through hull needs tidying up a bit the patina is a little green.

Kinda hard to find fault in an engine compartment that looks like that. Like the boat or not.
 
Hey all, I acquired 2 x 500ltr tanks from a Scania Road-train (really long truck). They are made from alloy. Seeing as boats are made from alloy this material shouldn't pose a problem should it? I plan on using one for diesel and the other for water.

I've heard of some people's opinions are that alloy in not good in a marine environment but I'm confused as boats are made from alloy?

Thoughts on this please :)

Thanks

iPad Forum Runner
 
Marin said:
If someone was contemplating new tanks for a boat I would not recommend stainless
Click to expand...

Sound advice. Stainless is much more prone to embrittalment from oxygen deprivation and due to the high content of chromium and nickel, the metal fatigues much more quickly than a softer iron.

Aluminum tanks work well in dry bilges. Steel would be a close second choice in my opinion.

All that being said, I have two 150 gallon stainless water tanks that haven't leaked a drop in 33 years. :)
 
Hendo78,
Wise to be suspect in this matter. I'm no expert on metallurgy but from both my ultralight flying and building days and the boating thing since 1950 I can give you something to consider.

Most commonly there's 5000 series, 7000series, 6000 series and 2000 series aluminum alloy.

Most boats are made of 5000 series and are obviously very resistant to corrosion and fairly strong.

Airplanes are made of stronger stuff most likely 7000 series but could be 6000 for some things.

2000 series is very strong but corrodes very fast. 7000 is strong and hard as well. I've wasted many drill bits on 7000 alloy.

Most 5000 and 6000 series stuff commonly available will probably be good for a boat tank. Others here will probably know more.

As to your tank the problem will probably be not knowing what alloy the tank was made of. When the plate was raw material there will likely be faint blue numbers like 2024, 6061, 7075 or 5052 ect. Lacking that info you may be able to trace back who made the tank and find out from the source. Lacking that you may be able to draw some conclusions from the life the tank has led. Exposed metal, 20 yrs old, chipped off paint showing bare metal that is or isn't corroded ect.

Good luck and let us know.
 
manyboats said:
Hendo78,
Wise to be suspect in this matter. I'm no expert on metallurgy but from both my ultralight flying and building days and the boating thing since 1950 I can give you something to consider.

Most commonly there's 5000 series, 7000series, 6000 series and 2000 series aluminum alloy.

Most boats are made of 5000 series and are obviously very resistant to corrosion and fairly strong.

Airplanes are made of stronger stuff most likely 7000 series but could be 6000 for some things.

2000 series is very strong but corrodes very fast. 7000 is strong and hard as well. I've wasted many drill bits on 7000 alloy.

Most 5000 and 6000 series stuff commonly available will probably be good for a boat tank. Others here will probably know more.

As to your tank the problem will probably be not knowing what alloy the tank was made of. When the plate was raw material there will likely be faint blue numbers like 2024, 6061, 7075 or 5052 ect. Lacking that info you may be able to trace back who made the tank and find out from the source. Lacking that you may be able to draw some conclusions from the life the tank has led. Exposed metal, 20 yrs old, chipped off paint showing bare metal that is or isn't corroded ect.

Good luck and let us know.
Click to expand...

Hi Eric.
Yeah wouldn't have a clue about alloy grade for this tank. The tank came off a 12month year old truck. I rang Scania but they get the tanks made externally and were not forthcoming with whom that external company is.

From what I have learnt from other forums the issues some people are having with alloy tanks come down to two points. First being a wet bilge and second being not having sealed batteries. These two don't pose any risk to me so I should be right IMHO.

I've spoken to the manufacturers of the 100% solids epoxy (Bote-Cote) I am using on my ply sheets and ribs and they said I can coat the tank in the same epoxy without any dramas If I really wanted to but would be too concerned with the tank due to its age, the batteries I have and the fact I will be making the boat water tight.
 
SomeSailor said:
All that being said, I have two 150 gallon stainless water tanks that haven't leaked a drop in 33 years. :)
Click to expand...

Same here, SomeSailor. In our case our two stainless water tanks (85 gal each) are now 40 years old. Go figure.
 
I had a 35 yr old Albin w a SS fuel tank. It was the original and nary a problem.

But my Albin was Swedish built = well built and I didn't have 95% of the other problems talked about on other boats either. That Albin was the most well built trouble free boat I've ever known bigger than a canoe. The caprail/rubrail was some kind of rubberized plastic (blue). I''ve seen about 50 little Albin's in/at the Albineers of BC club and NEVER saw anything wrong w the blur rails. So if the fuel tank was built to the same standards ........................

Why is this thread in the livaboard section?
 
Last edited:
classic old MT 34
 

Attachments

  • to+beaufort+003[1] bay shack on the icw.jpg
    to+beaufort+003[1] bay shack on the icw.jpg
    96.5 KB · Views: 147
Motion30,

Yea I like doze boats. Did you just feel like post'in that pic or does this post have somth'in to do w someth'in?
 
Ditto Darrell, that's my boat minus the canopy and side deck extensions.
The thread was called "What to look for in a Trawler, Eric, although you could be forgiven for missing that with the usual thread drift that occurs. In this case I think the attraction to look for being illustrated is the nice rear cockpit space of a sedan...?
 

Attachments

  • Image042.jpg
    Image042.jpg
    69.5 KB · Views: 139
Peter B said:
The thread was called "What to look for in a Trawler, Eric... In this case I think the attraction to look for being illustrated is the nice rear cockpit space of a sedan...?
Click to expand...
An important feature in my opinion. Non sundeck aft cabin boats, and even some sedan styles like Blue Seas, don`t have enough room aft to swing a cat(apologies to all ship`s cats, time they had their own thread) or for chairs, table, and a comfortable drink or meal. Sure many boats have a flybridge, but getting urgent supplies from the fridge and galley are less easy. And if the cockpit is well covered all the better, in these days of sun exposure worries.
 
We didn't write things down but we did have a mental list of what we would be COMFORTABLE with. Number one on the list was to keep it as small as possible, and still be comfortable. With this comes a usually smaller initial investment, ease of operation, lower maintenance costs, lower operating costs, etc., all of which add to the idea of "comfortable". If a boat gives you comfort in EVERY, or at least, most areas, you can't help but love it!

Things we like about ours;
- No fly-bridge, cuts down on redundant systems, easier to handle with less wind problems, no climbing
- Port, starboard, and cockpit doors
- Single diesel
- Wrap-around deck/walkways
- Self draining cockpit
- Transom door to walk through to swim deck
- 4 burner stove top and oven for the head chef and mate!
- It is in good operating condition but needs work as I choose.
- It has a classic, salty look.
- If it burns up tomorrow, we won't like it but it won't hurt us financially
so we only have liability insurance at $100/yr.
- Etc.
- Etc.
- Etc.

These are personal preferences of the wife and I.
Find your comfort level in ALL aspects and only then can you really enjoy it.

Good luck-
Eeber
 
boatpoker said:
We cruised on a 37' full displacement trawler for many years between Lake Superior, the gulf and Bahamas. Along came the grandkids who spend a lot of time with us so we got a 42' boat so they could have their own room.

We found that the extra 5' locked us out of many of the small anchorages on the icw and many of the free docks. Go with the smallest boat you can be comfortable with.

I think this is pertinent as the OP mentioned Florida and the Bahamas.
Click to expand...
Was it the extra length that was the primary problem, ....or the extra draft associated with the longer vessel??
 
Archives ?

manyboats said:
Fishook,
Welcome and if you are going to be "reading all comments" you're going to be very busy for a very long time. However I assume you meant the comments being made now. Well you'd be sell'in yourself short as there are years of comments available to you that were made in the past that are in the archives. They are about 8 years old and quite likely hold more information than the "comments" that will follow in the next 8 years. We have discussed "to death" many important topics that most here are reluctant to bring up again. So here on the forum the past may be of more value to you than what comes down the road. And you do'nt have to wait for it to get posted. So for conversational "banter" mostly look fwd and for explanations and general information .. look back.
Click to expand...

Where are these 'archives' , I didn't see a heading for them??
 
<What kind of maintenance is recommended for SS diesel fuel tanks?>

Mostly inspection of the installation.

SS has a very hard time if it cant be exposed to air.

Look in PBB for the proper method of SS tank installation and be sure your install is done correctly.
 
Fantail Sterns

Tad Roberts said:
Two full displacement hulls, same LOA, beam, draft and displacement. One with a fantail and the other with a transom.

The fantail will be shorter on the waterline. Resistance will be lower at very low speeds (no wavemaking) but much higher at high speed (once wavemaking begins). The fantail will have less stability (less waterplane area) and probably be more "pitchy" bucking or running in a sea. If the rudder and keel are of adequate area the fantail may be more directionally stable. The transom may be pushed around by following seas, a larger rudder and deeper keel alleviate most of this. The fantail will trim by the stern more as speed increases, the transom will run flatter and have a higher speed capability. The fantail won't bang as much when backing into a wave.
Click to expand...

Tad, can you get a fantail style stern look, but with a bottom that will perform better up to max displacement speed or even just above displacement speed??

I'm asking in relation to that 'redesign' I am investigating for the Pilgrim 40:
Trawler Forum - View Single Post - Redesigning the Pilgrim 40 Trawler / Canal Boat

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s3/hull-shapes-show-us-your-girls-bottom-4433-7.html#post161559
 
Marin said:
....
All our tanks gravity feed from their lowest points so there is really no maintenance necessary to the tanks as nothing stays in a tank when it's emptied. We've never gotten any water or dirt in the bowls of the Racor filters the fuel runs through on the way to the engines. The tanks were made with large inspection ports but we have had no reason to remove them.
Click to expand...
So you never have any condensation in the empty tanks. if they were to be left empty for some period of time?
 
IF its stored empty , with a low point drain , checking for any waterbefore returning to service is easy.

The important point is with an empty tank there is no food (FUEL) for the bugs to eat.
 
And my thought is way drag around a whole load of fuel (weight) all of the time. Just fuel the 'big tanks' when you need or want that extra range.
 
Wife and I purchased this boat in July. Five days to bring her back to Maryland, had a awesome trip. The boat is as great as what you see in the pictures. Boat did roll a little when we ran on the outside for a full day in 4plus sea hitting on the beam, but I would say must boats would have done the same. I'm 6'5" and can easy move throughout the engine for all maintenance.
 
HyattFantail said:
Boat did roll a little when we ran on the outside for a full day in 4plus sea hitting on the beam, but I would say must boats would have done the same..
Click to expand...

I think that most trawlers would have quite a bit of roll with 4-foot seas on the beam. I know that mine would! So if your wife is still with you after that trip then it must be a very stable boat. :)

John
 
I left my boat with both full tanks for 6 months, but I used Diesel Fuel Additive.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
Would You?
Replies
10
Views
525
Lepke
Lepke
T
Moving a trawler to my home
Replies
27
Views
2K
Northern Spy
Northern Spy
A
New Guy
Replies
6
Views
345
Mischief Managed
Mischief Managed
C
Seaworthy Trawler under 40 ft?
Replies
16
Views
2K
Helmsman
H
S
Liveaboard Recommendations?
Replies
26
Views
4K
ranger58sb
ranger58sb

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom