Non-opening Portlights

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Lobo

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Messages
21
Location
Canada
Vessel Name
Lobo
Vessel Make
International Offshore - Portuguese Bridge Pilot House Trawler
Now that we are starting the demolition we are thinking about what we will eventually replace.
We are looking for non opening port-lights, preferably s/s that do the following;
the inside and outside pinches together to form a waterproof seal over the insulated wall we are going to be putting in. It would screw together from the inside.
If we use the ones we have, which are good ones we think, we will have to leave a space around them that isn't insulated so expect we will have condensation issues around all the portlights. Until we can replace them we will figure out a way to insulate them to minimize the condensation - I've seen some good ideas on the forum, but in the long run it would be nice to be able to insulate and finish right up to the portlights.
Any suggestions? We are in Canada so may not have access to some of the places you go to down south.
 
No matter what you do the metal of the port will carry heat out , or cold in.

However they mount the glass in a port stinks as an insulation.

To be warmer the only solution is to cover the port (clear shrink plastic is fine) as an attempt to keep it from being a cold radiator in the cabin.

Build something in from the start to reduce air contact and it need not look klugey.
 
We don’t seem to have a condensation problem with the ports. My wife make thermal curtains for the port and bigger salon windows which really help holding in the heat. I would install ports that open as you do need to have some air movement and to air out the boat once in a while. If you do not there will be CO build up. :nonono: We have two CO alarms in the state room, one high and one low as CO is aboout the same as air. Most think it heavier than air.

It sounds what you are doing what we did 15+ years ago. Except we did not have internet and/or a great boat sites to ask questions. :socool:
 
You got some good advice above. You want to have the port-light sandwich the hull and be properly bedded. Sandwiching both the hull and an auxiliary interior wall is going to inevitably lead to leaks.
 
Our ports are attached to the interior, and they have not leaked for 15+ years, probable 32 years as they are original. Just make sure you bed/seal well, 3M - 5200. If they do start leaking all you have to do is run a bead of calking around the out side. It’s a lot easier to insulate on the inside. than the outside.
 
You do not want non opeing ports! :thumb::socool:
 
We have had good luck with New Found Metals in Port Townsend, WA...

I don't know if they make a non-opening portlight or not.

Thanks to all for suggestions, they are helpful. Looking at new found metals, may have just what we are looking for, an extended spigot? that will give us the extra depth through that we were looking for.
 
an extended spigot? that will give us the extra depth through that we were looking for.

Some mfg will cast the spigot at a down angle.

These ARE harder to mount.

However you can open the port after a rain with no fear of a cup of water pouring in.

In some cases with an outside eyebrow and screen , (and light rain) the port can even be open in the rain.
 
Some mfg will cast the spigot at a down angle.

These ARE harder to mount.

However you can open the port after a rain with no fear of a cup of water pouring in.

In some cases with an outside eyebrow and screen , (and light rain) the port can even be open in the rain.

A spigot is a type of joint in which the projection one part (male) fits into the other part. In this case the extended spigot can accommodate his thicker than average cabin walls.
 

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