Remove cutless bearing case and stuffing box base.

I was finally able to pull the shaft on my Albin 36'. Since many of the TT's were built using the same design, I’m putting the question up here. The cutless bearing case is attached to the hull using (2) ss threaded studs. The stuffing box base is attached to the opposite end using (4) ss screws about ½ x 5”. I was able to get these out but I don’t know what was used to seal the case and base to the hull.

Any ideas

I have always used 5200 with good results. By the way I note that the threaded studs came out of the hull vice the nuts being removed from the studs. You may want to reinstall the studs bedded in an epoxy slurry of cabosil or other filler of choice. If not rebedded properly (permanently); they can become loose over time - especially if they enter into a wooden sternpost.

Jan

On a marine trader there is a stern tube on the other end that is threaded on. One must unscrew this to remove

That may be my problem.

OK... The external cutlass bearing house is designed to simply (relatively) slide off IOT faciltate removal and replacement of the bearing. These external housings are not usually threaded to the stern tube. I concur that the internal stuffing box housing might be threaded and screwed to the tube. That is why most stuffing box housings are set in place with lag bolts/screws vs the hanger studs. As you remove the box - the tube will come with it. I have seen threaded versions and simple male/female tight fits with appropriate bedding.

Jan

Vixen
In that case how is the stern tube sealed ?

Terry, we are all talking but what is the problem exactly - do you have trouble removing the external housing? Do you need to remove the stern tube? The housing should pop loose even if it was bedded in resin. But then, if it was put in place in Taiwan.... who knows. (All of the wiring on my MT is all chinese red...LOL)

Hey there, Motion... The stern tube is not a dry system. That is the reason for the stuffing box. Ambient water is what cools and lubricates the cutlass bearing. Many vessels actually have water diverted from the heat exchanger to the stuffing box to increase the amount of water flow around the shaft and packing. (This also would normalize the temp of the shaft in colder waters. I hope I make some sense - I'm pretty new to posting comments.

VIXEN
I do understand how the stern tube is fashioned , my question was..if the bearning carrier is not threaded onto the stern tube, how is the stern tube sealed as to not leak into the boat?

btw
it seems at around 30years old these brass stern tubes tend to pit ,rot and leak

Properly constructed stern tubes are molded into the hull at birth. There should be no way water should enter the boat around the outside of the tube and into the boat. Normal and careful bedding during refitting the carrier with your choice of stuff will prevent any unwarranted intrusion. Anyways, I readily stand by to learn new techniques or tech bits.

Is this chat doing Terry any good?

VIXEN
This may help Terry understand what he has. I have never seen a molded in stern tube but it makes sense. These TT had many differerent set ups depending which yard built the boat in question Terry if you can not pop off the bearing carrier try turning it with a pipe wrench. We do know it comes off one way or the other

If ... the stern tube is just molded into the hull at birth. It will be a constant source of leakage as the resin will not bond to a vibrating metal tube. In 2777 surveys I've never seen it done this way. The tube will be threaded into the bearing housing more properly called the shaft log.

If ... the tube is brass it will not last more than a few years in salt water as brass is way down the galvanic scale and should never be used below the waterline. Replace it with stainless steel.

After unbolting the shaft log you may be able to remove it and the stern tube together but only if you disconnect the stuffing box.

As one who's been thru the Marine Trader leaking stern tube exercise, I will second all the comments about how they're installed. The cutless bearing case has holes in it to allow water to enter, cool/lube the bearing and fill around the shaft inside the stern tube, and the water stays out of the boat where the packing gland attaches to the stern tube , just aft of the transmission. Pulling out the old stern tube was a bear, since it'd been encased in concrete at the aft end. My replacement is a fiberglass tube, glassed to the hull at the aft end of the keel, rather than just screwed into the bearing holder. Then the cutless bearing is bolted/sealed to the keel behind it. Not a cheap fix.

On my 34' it was encased in grey stones and resin

How was the stern tube pulled/removed? I'm sure mine has holes in it.

Pull the studs and thread the stern bearing housing off. Then you can better inspect the tube. If it has holes in it then you have more problems as already stated.

Albin cutlass bearing housings are threaded onto the shaft log...you would need to remove the studs and unthread it.

After talking to a yard that replaced one a few years ago...I don't care if it leaks like a sive into my hollow keel...very little chance I'll fool with it after the yard told me it took them a monyh of coaxing the shaft log out to replace it.

So I didn't mess with mine after a thorough bottom job...I just bedded back to the hull after I scraped away the old caulk.

My Brother in Law had a 1981/82 Grand Mariner 36 which was the B.C. name for the Albin 36.
His stern or shaft tube leaked and it was a big job. All the glass down the side of the keel exterior on one side was ground out and then inside the boat to release the failed tube.
It was typical Taiwanese S.S. of the day, not very good.

Replaced the tube and reglassed and the boat was good to go.

The shaft log was threaded on to the shaft tube, the studs had to be pulled first to unscrew the log.

Don't fool with it unless you absolutely must. The tube I mean.

ALL DONE! Both ends are threaded on the stern tube. It took a 3’
pipe wrench to break it loose. The shaft is 9’ and has corrosion spots in many places. Looks like small pin holes. I took everything to the prop/shaft shop and they will see what they can do. The shaft is 3 thou under 1 1/2".

Glad you got it off. Beware of small pin holes in stainless steel, the underlying cavity will be much bigger under each pin hole as in this shot of a broken shaft.

Is there a way to tell how bad it is?

meridian said:

Is there a way to tell how bad it is?

Click to expand...

The only way I know is X-ray. Here is an example of a shaft X-ray showing how a small pit on the surface is so much bigger on the inside.

The simplest way to have fewer problems is to install a MONEL shaft if your SS needs replacing .

Sleeping better does come at a price tho.