Delia Rosa
Senior Member
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- Delia Rosa
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- C & L Sea Ranger 47 Raised Pilothouse
securing for hurricanes
- Thread starter Ya mon
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Moonstruck
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- Sabre 42 Hardtop Express
Hurricane Sandy Cat 1, 2012 New Jersey
BaltimoreLurker
Curmudgeon
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- Moon Dance
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- 1974 34' Marine Trader Sedan
As of Tuesday morning's high tide all was well on Rock Creek. Just a few inches over the finger pier. I'll be running down to the marina to check on the results of last night's super high tide this morning.
All in all, really no BFD in my area of the Chesapeake.
All in all, really no BFD in my area of the Chesapeake.
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Moonstruck
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Lurker, didn't know that you are on Rock Creek. We were at Fairview Marina summer and fall of '04. It's a great location for some good cruising.
BaltimoreLurker
Curmudgeon
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Hi Don:
Small world! I'm further up the creek at Pasadena Yacht Yard. This is a great area from which to explore the Bay. And, if I ever break free of my day-to-day wage slave type employment I'll get to see some of it!
- Darrell
Our policy reads: Vessel is required to remain either north of St Mary’s, GA, or south of 12 degrees 30 minutes north latitude, 06/01 – 11/01.
Some companies say south of 12 which means Trinidad/Tobago because of Hurricane Ivan which destroyed Grenada in 2004.
Moonstruck
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When you get down below the Grenadines in the Caribbean Sea you are getting out of the hurricane zone. Aruba is below it. With the westerly weather movement they are usually pushed out to sea as they move to the northerly latitudes. The cooler water will also usually slow the winds. When they move North and collide with a clockwise flow of a large high pressure area, they can be drawn back in toward the West. That happens very infrequently. By the time they get to Nova Scotia or New Foundland they are usually at tropical storm strength.
bfloyd4445
Guru
I am a total neophyte to this forum. I would like to know what should be done to my boat while docked at the marina to protect it from hurricanes? Any and all advice is welcome!
make absolutely sure your insurance is paid up and it covers this sort of damage...
That said, out here its freezing damage thats the biggy and after the freeze of 92 the insurance companies stopped covering this kind of damage. Some have started again
windmill29130
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psneeld
Guru
have fun...every boat, captain and port is a different situation...not that sharing ideas is bad...but blindly following someone else' s advice is a path to nowhere.
As far as living in a marina out of the hurricane zone....good luck on that one also...bought my 3rd and final liveaboard and even though NJ hasn't had a decent hurricane in 30 years...we have had 2 direct hits since I bought my boat....
have at it all those that are dying to....
As far as living in a marina out of the hurricane zone....good luck on that one also...bought my 3rd and final liveaboard and even though NJ hasn't had a decent hurricane in 30 years...we have had 2 direct hits since I bought my boat....
have at it all those that are dying to....
psneeld
Guru
Just posted what I did (headed up a local river) in the "well this sucks" thread...
http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s3/well-sucks-7606-6.html
page 6 I think
windmill29130
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Good Move! Most marinas down south make you move your boat when in the path of a hurricane. Getting away from that storm surge is important. That is what I will do if ever faced with the same situation.
psneeld
Guru
Thanks...funny so many people are arguing on what should or shouldn't be done...especially about someone around a hundred miles away....and yet you are the first with Blue Heron to comment on someone who just went through the eye.
Moonstruck
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Thanks...funny so many people are arguing on what should or shouldn't be done...especially about someone around a hundred miles away....and yet you are the first with Blue Heron to comment on someone who just went through the eye.
You did the right thing to get out of the marina to a more sheltered area away from other boats. It's a good thing that you ran out of storm before running out of pilings. Being tied up along the bulkhead close to shore was also a good idea.
Here is a link to a page with info and location about the hurricane hole on Soldier Creek I mentioned earlier. The location can be found on the second illustration. The black dots depict the route of the GICW. Those that have cruised the Panhandle should be familiar with the area. It is between Mobile Bay and Pensacola Bay.
http://pubs.usgs.gov/sir/2006/5287/pdf/PerdidoBay.pdf
This is what I prepared for my boat. My wife executed the plan one time when a strom approached and I was out of state.
CCC
STORM PREPARATION PLAN
A. MOORING:
Use chafing gear on boat end of lines whenever possible. Pull the boat a foot or so further away from the dock, first removing the gang plank. When setting the lines have the same sag in the lines so that one does not tighten with no strain on its sister line(s).
Extra lines and chafing gear are located in the lazarette and in the boat storage closet on the dock. In the lazarette the lines are on the forward bulkhead. The chafing gear is just aft of the port rudder stock. This gear is short links of red hose and black hose. The split chafing gear is for the two anchor lines in the event the anchors are used. If C C Rider is at its home dock, the lines to double and add are already attached to the pilings.
(1) Double the bow lines onto each piling so that there are a total of four bow lines to the two bow cleats. #5 to #1 & #5 to #2.
(2) Double the stern lines, #1 to #9 & #1 to #10.
(3) Rig lines #2 to #3 & #3 to #7 on left side.
(4) Rig lines #2 to #4 & #3 to #8 on right side.
7/11/03
B. BRIDGE:
Perform these numbered operations in order:
(1) Canvas
a. Remove Privacy Curtain and stow it in the bridge console. (This takes time, as bolts and aluminum bars at the bottom must be removed. Leave in place if necessary)
b. Cockpit awning; Remove lacing and leave canvas loose as it can’t be removed from the frame.
(2) Dinghy: “Home Dock”
a. If boat is bow into the slip remove dinghy from the boat and store it on the ramp on the dock. Partially deflate it and cover it with the canvas. Use 2 of the 5/8” dock lines to secure the dinghy. The lines should be criss- crossed over the dinghy and tied to the dock. (see picture).
b. Make certain that the drain plug is removed.
Dinghy: “Away form Home”
a. If at all possible store the dinghy ashore and tie down.
b. If dinghy is to remain on the boat, lash it down as best you can.
(3) Gin Pole
a. Fold it into its’ crutch, it need not be lashed down.
(4) Bimini
a. Loosen the 2 tie down straps and fold it forward.
b. Use the nylon braided lines that are located in the bridge console to wrap around the canvas of the bimini and cinch them tight.
c. Use one length of extra dock or other line and wrap the bimini with it so that the wind will not tear the canvas loose. Make certain each end of the canvas is tightly closed.
(5) Antennas
a. VHF antenna (the long one on the port side) is released and leaned outboard and then rotated aft . It is then tied with a short piece of rope to the gin pole.
b. The shorter VHF antenna (on the port side) is laid forward. Tie or tape it to the broadcast band antenna on the port side of the pilothouse roof.
(6) Mast
a. If the mast is folded simply tie a dock line to the rail on one side of the bridge and loop it around the mast immediately forward of the crutch and then tie to the opposite side rail. (see picture)
b. If the mast is standing, do the same as a. except position the rope on the rails slightly forward of the mast.
(7) Cushions:
a. The cover for the cushions on the bridge may be stowed in the bridge console.
b. Remove the cushions and any other loose gear from the bridge and wipe off any dampness before stowing the gear in the pilothouse.
(8) Bridge Dashboard:
a. Remove the depth sounder along with its cover, and the canvas cover over the instrument panel and compass. These may be stowed inside the console on the bridge.
b. Remove the Naugahide cover from the steering wheel.
(9) Life Raft:
a. Remove the cover and put in the boat storage closet or inside the cabin.
C. HOUSE:
(1) Remove the canvas covers from the windshield.
(2) Remove the sunscreens from the side windows.
(3) Bring inside:
a. life rings
b. chairs
c. boat hooks (4)
d. fenders
e. barbeque pit
(4) Make certain all ports, windows and doors are shut and locked tight.
(5) Close the ventilator in the pilothouse.
D. SALON
(1) Remove all loose gear from any counter top in the galley, including blender.
(2) Remove all loose items from the sideboard in the salon.
(3) Use lashings mounted on wall on chairs or lay them on cabin floor.
E. BEDROOMS & BATH
(1) Make sure all loose gear is stowed.
F. UTILITIES:
(1) 110 volt circuit breaker panel inside the boat:
a. Everything off
(2) Disconnect both shore power cords at the dock.The shore power cords and telephone cords may be left on the deck.
(3) 12 volt panel:
a. All circuits OFF
(4) 12 volt auxiliary panels
a. All circuits OFF.
(5) Battery selector switch on 1
(6) Propane
a. Turn OFF at the bottle.
(7) Water
a. Disconnect the water hose from the dockside hose bib completely. Leave hose on deck.
G. OPTION:
In the event that the C C Rider is at a berth other than Patterson and the bow pilings are determined not be strong enough to withstand the storm then the following procedure should be utilized:
(1) Set the CQR and Danforth anchors at a 45 angle off of the bow. Use a boat to do this. Set at least 200’ of rode. Place split hose chafing gear, from the lazarette, where the lines go over the bow roller. Winch both anchor lines tight.
(2) Then use a short piece of line to tie the two anchor lines together JUST FORWARD OF THE ANCHOR ROLLER, then wrap this short line around the anchor lines and the anchor pulpit. This is to keep the anchor lines from being pulled off of the roller.
Subsequent to all of the foregoing being accomplished and checked, remove the gang plank and close the transom door.
PRAY THAT ALL OF THIS WAS FOR NAUGHT !!!!!
CCC
STORM PREPARATION PLAN
For
C C RIDER
November, 1992
Revised January, 1996
Revised July, 2003
Use chafing gear on boat end of lines whenever possible. Pull the boat a foot or so further away from the dock, first removing the gang plank. When setting the lines have the same sag in the lines so that one does not tighten with no strain on its sister line(s).
Extra lines and chafing gear are located in the lazarette and in the boat storage closet on the dock. In the lazarette the lines are on the forward bulkhead. The chafing gear is just aft of the port rudder stock. This gear is short links of red hose and black hose. The split chafing gear is for the two anchor lines in the event the anchors are used. If C C Rider is at its home dock, the lines to double and add are already attached to the pilings.
(1) Double the bow lines onto each piling so that there are a total of four bow lines to the two bow cleats. #5 to #1 & #5 to #2.
(2) Double the stern lines, #1 to #9 & #1 to #10.
(3) Rig lines #2 to #3 & #3 to #7 on left side.
(4) Rig lines #2 to #4 & #3 to #8 on right side.
7/11/03
B. BRIDGE:
Perform these numbered operations in order:
(1) Canvas
a. Remove Privacy Curtain and stow it in the bridge console. (This takes time, as bolts and aluminum bars at the bottom must be removed. Leave in place if necessary)
b. Cockpit awning; Remove lacing and leave canvas loose as it can’t be removed from the frame.
(2) Dinghy: “Home Dock”
a. If boat is bow into the slip remove dinghy from the boat and store it on the ramp on the dock. Partially deflate it and cover it with the canvas. Use 2 of the 5/8” dock lines to secure the dinghy. The lines should be criss- crossed over the dinghy and tied to the dock. (see picture).
b. Make certain that the drain plug is removed.
Dinghy: “Away form Home”
a. If at all possible store the dinghy ashore and tie down.
b. If dinghy is to remain on the boat, lash it down as best you can.
(3) Gin Pole
a. Fold it into its’ crutch, it need not be lashed down.
(4) Bimini
a. Loosen the 2 tie down straps and fold it forward.
b. Use the nylon braided lines that are located in the bridge console to wrap around the canvas of the bimini and cinch them tight.
c. Use one length of extra dock or other line and wrap the bimini with it so that the wind will not tear the canvas loose. Make certain each end of the canvas is tightly closed.
(5) Antennas
a. VHF antenna (the long one on the port side) is released and leaned outboard and then rotated aft . It is then tied with a short piece of rope to the gin pole.
b. The shorter VHF antenna (on the port side) is laid forward. Tie or tape it to the broadcast band antenna on the port side of the pilothouse roof.
(6) Mast
a. If the mast is folded simply tie a dock line to the rail on one side of the bridge and loop it around the mast immediately forward of the crutch and then tie to the opposite side rail. (see picture)
b. If the mast is standing, do the same as a. except position the rope on the rails slightly forward of the mast.
(7) Cushions:
a. The cover for the cushions on the bridge may be stowed in the bridge console.
b. Remove the cushions and any other loose gear from the bridge and wipe off any dampness before stowing the gear in the pilothouse.
(8) Bridge Dashboard:
a. Remove the depth sounder along with its cover, and the canvas cover over the instrument panel and compass. These may be stowed inside the console on the bridge.
b. Remove the Naugahide cover from the steering wheel.
(9) Life Raft:
a. Remove the cover and put in the boat storage closet or inside the cabin.
C. HOUSE:
(1) Remove the canvas covers from the windshield.
(2) Remove the sunscreens from the side windows.
(3) Bring inside:
a. life rings
b. chairs
c. boat hooks (4)
d. fenders
e. barbeque pit
(4) Make certain all ports, windows and doors are shut and locked tight.
(5) Close the ventilator in the pilothouse.
D. SALON
(1) Remove all loose gear from any counter top in the galley, including blender.
(2) Remove all loose items from the sideboard in the salon.
(3) Use lashings mounted on wall on chairs or lay them on cabin floor.
E. BEDROOMS & BATH
(1) Make sure all loose gear is stowed.
F. UTILITIES:
(1) 110 volt circuit breaker panel inside the boat:
a. Everything off
(2) Disconnect both shore power cords at the dock.The shore power cords and telephone cords may be left on the deck.
(3) 12 volt panel:
a. All circuits OFF
(4) 12 volt auxiliary panels
a. All circuits OFF.
(5) Battery selector switch on 1
(6) Propane
a. Turn OFF at the bottle.
(7) Water
a. Disconnect the water hose from the dockside hose bib completely. Leave hose on deck.
G. OPTION:
In the event that the C C Rider is at a berth other than Patterson and the bow pilings are determined not be strong enough to withstand the storm then the following procedure should be utilized:
(1) Set the CQR and Danforth anchors at a 45 angle off of the bow. Use a boat to do this. Set at least 200’ of rode. Place split hose chafing gear, from the lazarette, where the lines go over the bow roller. Winch both anchor lines tight.
(2) Then use a short piece of line to tie the two anchor lines together JUST FORWARD OF THE ANCHOR ROLLER, then wrap this short line around the anchor lines and the anchor pulpit. This is to keep the anchor lines from being pulled off of the roller.
Subsequent to all of the foregoing being accomplished and checked, remove the gang plank and close the transom door.
PRAY THAT ALL OF THIS WAS FOR NAUGHT !!!!!
