Well, I really don't think you're right. *I've lived in Maine for 18+ years and have a fair amount of experience testing the software I've written there. *While I haven't anchored in Maine yet with DragQueen, I have done a lot of iPhone/iPad testing in Maine waters. *The accuracy is the same there as it is here in Florida where I am right now. *On my boat with a DGPS signal, I typically see 9' of accuracy everywhere - that's with the GPS antenna on the arch with excellent exposure. *The iPhone 4 typically sees 16 feet of accuracy in the pilothouse.
Setting a Second Anchor
- Thread starter timjet
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
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bobofthenorth
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I could pretty easily get in over my head here but the concept is that the satellite constellation is optimised for more central latitudes and is not always optimum for northern latitudes.* Earlier I said "not usually optimised" but the more correct wording would be "not always optimised".* In the case where we have less than optimum constellations then our HDOP goes way up, maybe only for short periods of time but long enough to wake me up in the middle of the night nevertheless.* I don't think smartphones are WAAS enabled but that would be a very useful development for an anchor alarm app.
Arctic Traveller
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Have I set a second anchor? Yup. *
Up until last summer, perhaps once or twice, but suddenly I discovered I needed to do it every night.* That was because I was running an over night cruise boat (that won't be named) and the first time I saw it I recognized the anchor was way undersized.* It had a 400lb Navy anchor hanging up front, and when I mentioned it to the owner he assured me it was fine, but if I was worried I could simply tie the second anchor (a huge aluminum Fortress) to the primary. I had no idea how this might work, but he assured me the crew knew how to do it.*
My first trip was from Seattle to Juneau, and the first time I dropped the anchor and backed down on it, I never felt it hook up.* Over the next few days I probably plowed a mile of bottom trying to get that thing to bite.* Fortunately, up to that point the weather was calm every night, but somewhere about Rivers Inlet, the forecast called for rising winds, so I quizzed the mate about using the second anchor.* He said they simply tied the rode from the second anchor (about 30ft) to the shank of the primary, then dropped it over the side first. The theory was one or the other would hook up.*
As the trip went on, the weather stayed windy, and I used both anchors several times.* Once I got to Juneau and the owner was coming to relieve me, I told him we had a fine trip, but I thought he needed a bigger anchor.* He laughed and I went on my way.**
Three weeks later I relieved him for a couple trips, and learned to hate that undersized anchor.* Using Rosepoint, I set an anchor alarm every night, and had many a sleepless night as we plowed the bottom when the wind blew.* I finally ended up deploying the second anchor every night.* It did help, but was a huge pain for the crew to hoist by hand, and after one really windy night, it came up bent making me think it had done the lions share of holding the boat.
Only once were the rodes tangled though, so in a pinch I'd probably do the same thing again, but I'd rather have an over-sized anchor to start with......Arctic Traveller.
Trawler Training and charters at <a href="http://www.arctictraveller.com">www.arctictraveller.com
</a>
*
Up until last summer, perhaps once or twice, but suddenly I discovered I needed to do it every night.* That was because I was running an over night cruise boat (that won't be named) and the first time I saw it I recognized the anchor was way undersized.* It had a 400lb Navy anchor hanging up front, and when I mentioned it to the owner he assured me it was fine, but if I was worried I could simply tie the second anchor (a huge aluminum Fortress) to the primary. I had no idea how this might work, but he assured me the crew knew how to do it.*
My first trip was from Seattle to Juneau, and the first time I dropped the anchor and backed down on it, I never felt it hook up.* Over the next few days I probably plowed a mile of bottom trying to get that thing to bite.* Fortunately, up to that point the weather was calm every night, but somewhere about Rivers Inlet, the forecast called for rising winds, so I quizzed the mate about using the second anchor.* He said they simply tied the rode from the second anchor (about 30ft) to the shank of the primary, then dropped it over the side first. The theory was one or the other would hook up.*
As the trip went on, the weather stayed windy, and I used both anchors several times.* Once I got to Juneau and the owner was coming to relieve me, I told him we had a fine trip, but I thought he needed a bigger anchor.* He laughed and I went on my way.**
Three weeks later I relieved him for a couple trips, and learned to hate that undersized anchor.* Using Rosepoint, I set an anchor alarm every night, and had many a sleepless night as we plowed the bottom when the wind blew.* I finally ended up deploying the second anchor every night.* It did help, but was a huge pain for the crew to hoist by hand, and after one really windy night, it came up bent making me think it had done the lions share of holding the boat.
Only once were the rodes tangled though, so in a pinch I'd probably do the same thing again, but I'd rather have an over-sized anchor to start with......Arctic Traveller.
Trawler Training and charters at <a href="http://www.arctictraveller.com">www.arctictraveller.com
</a>
*
FF
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"and after one really windy night, it came up bent "
Should make great mailbox art , now would seem time for a better grade and size of anchor.
What is the problem with the windlass that the idle side cant be used to lift a second anchor?
Should make great mailbox art , now would seem time for a better grade and size of anchor.
What is the problem with the windlass that the idle side cant be used to lift a second anchor?
skipperdude
Guru
There's nothing as refreshing as a good night's sleep on board a boat that's bobbing gently at anchor. But wake to the clunk of two hulls meeting, or the grind of a keel on rocks, and sweet dreams quickly turn to nightmares.
When you drop anchor, you want to make sure the boat is going to stay where you want it to; this means choosing the right location considering the swinging circle and type of bottom, properly setting the hook, and measuring out the right amount of scope. Being able to drop a second anchor, and knowing the technique, increases your options and your security. Two anchors can improve your grip on the bottom, accommodate changes in wind or current direction better, and reduce the area in which the boat swings.
<h4>The Second Anchor</h4>
Obviously, you won't be able to set two anchors if you only have one on board. Apart from being able to double up, there are a couple of other good reasons for carrying extra ground tackle. With two anchors of different designs you can choose the best one for the type of bottom; and if you have to leave a snagged anchor on the bottom, it won't be your only one.
There are a number of different methods and applications for setting two anchors. Here are two that cover a variety of situations.
<h4>The Bahamian Moor</h4>
One of the most useful methods for setting a pair of anchors is called The Bahamian Moor. Here anchors are set about 180° from each other, with the boat resting comfortably in between. Apart from the security of two anchors, the most significant advantage is a greatly reduced swinging circle: a real benefit in a crowded anchorage.
<table style="width:450px;" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"><tbody><tr><td width="50%">The technique is to drop the first anchor well to leeward of where you want the boat to finally sit while at anchor -- we'll call this the mooring target. This anchor is dropped from the stern so there's no chance of snagging the rode as the boat motors away to windward (1). Moving to windward, line is paid out until the boat is over the mooring target with the correct scope. Then the line is made fast to a stern cleat, forward power is applied and the anchor is set.</td><td width="50%"><center>
</center></td></tr><tr><td width="50%"><center>
</center></td><td width="50%">The leeward line is then uncleated and paid out as the boat continues to windward and the second hook is lowered from the bow. The boat is then backed away, line is paid out to the desired scope, made fast, and the second anchor is set (2). Again, care must be taken to keep the leeward line away from the prop, rudder and keel.</td></tr><tr><td width="50%">The leeward anchor line is now led forward and secured at the bow so the boat is free to swing by pivoting (3). It's important that the distance between the two anchors and the boat is sufficient to allow the anchor line to trail at a deep enough angle so it's clear of the keel. Having an all-chain rode helps as its weight holds it closer to the bottom.</td><td width="50%"><center>
</center></td></tr></tbody></table>
*
To get underway, line is paid out from the windward anchor and taken in from the leeward so the boat can drift back over the leeward anchor. Once it's off the bottom, the boat then motors up to collect the windward anchor. As always, care must be taken to avoid fowling the lines on the underside of the boat.
The Bahamian Moor works well when the wind direction is expected to remain fairly constant or shift a full 180°, such as from an on-shore to an off-shore breeze, or when tidal current will reverse direction. It's not ideal when the wind blows 90° to the anchor lines. For these conditions, another method is better...
<h4>Two Anchors at 45°</h4>
Setting two anchors at roughly 45° off the bow is another way of reducing swing while gaining improved holding power. This method shares the load between both anchors, and provides a backup if one anchor drags. Swing is reduced because the boat can only move in the area where the swing circles of each anchor overlap.
This is a good method to use if the wind is shifty or makes significant changes in direction..
<table style="width:450px;height:510px;" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"><tbody><tr><td width="50%">
The first hook is set in the usual way, keeping in mind that the mooring target will be somewhere between the two anchors.
2. When sufficient scope is paid out, the boat is again brought to windward this time to either port or starboard of the first anchor.
</td><td width="50%"><center>
</center></td></tr><tr><td colspan="2">The anchor line should be kept taut to ensure the boat stays on the outer limits of its swing circle, and it's important to move slowly so the anchor isn't jerked loose. When the first line is perpendicular to the boat's centerline, the second anchor is dropped and set. Both rodes are then adjusted so the boat rides with roughly equal scope on each anchor.</td></tr><tr><td valign="bottom" width="50%"><center>
</center></td><td valign="bottom" width="50%"><center>
</center></td></tr></tbody></table>
*
So, when an anchorage puts you in a tight spot or provides less than desired shelter from wind or current, take this prescription for a good night's sleep:
When you drop anchor, you want to make sure the boat is going to stay where you want it to; this means choosing the right location considering the swinging circle and type of bottom, properly setting the hook, and measuring out the right amount of scope. Being able to drop a second anchor, and knowing the technique, increases your options and your security. Two anchors can improve your grip on the bottom, accommodate changes in wind or current direction better, and reduce the area in which the boat swings.
<h4>The Second Anchor</h4>
Obviously, you won't be able to set two anchors if you only have one on board. Apart from being able to double up, there are a couple of other good reasons for carrying extra ground tackle. With two anchors of different designs you can choose the best one for the type of bottom; and if you have to leave a snagged anchor on the bottom, it won't be your only one.
There are a number of different methods and applications for setting two anchors. Here are two that cover a variety of situations.
<h4>The Bahamian Moor</h4>
One of the most useful methods for setting a pair of anchors is called The Bahamian Moor. Here anchors are set about 180° from each other, with the boat resting comfortably in between. Apart from the security of two anchors, the most significant advantage is a greatly reduced swinging circle: a real benefit in a crowded anchorage.
<table style="width:450px;" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"><tbody><tr><td width="50%">The technique is to drop the first anchor well to leeward of where you want the boat to finally sit while at anchor -- we'll call this the mooring target. This anchor is dropped from the stern so there's no chance of snagging the rode as the boat motors away to windward (1). Moving to windward, line is paid out until the boat is over the mooring target with the correct scope. Then the line is made fast to a stern cleat, forward power is applied and the anchor is set.</td><td width="50%"><center>
*
To get underway, line is paid out from the windward anchor and taken in from the leeward so the boat can drift back over the leeward anchor. Once it's off the bottom, the boat then motors up to collect the windward anchor. As always, care must be taken to avoid fowling the lines on the underside of the boat.
The Bahamian Moor works well when the wind direction is expected to remain fairly constant or shift a full 180°, such as from an on-shore to an off-shore breeze, or when tidal current will reverse direction. It's not ideal when the wind blows 90° to the anchor lines. For these conditions, another method is better...
<h4>Two Anchors at 45°</h4>
Setting two anchors at roughly 45° off the bow is another way of reducing swing while gaining improved holding power. This method shares the load between both anchors, and provides a backup if one anchor drags. Swing is reduced because the boat can only move in the area where the swing circles of each anchor overlap.
This is a good method to use if the wind is shifty or makes significant changes in direction..
<table style="width:450px;height:510px;" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"><tbody><tr><td width="50%">
The first hook is set in the usual way, keeping in mind that the mooring target will be somewhere between the two anchors.
2. When sufficient scope is paid out, the boat is again brought to windward this time to either port or starboard of the first anchor.
</td><td width="50%"><center>
*
So, when an anchorage puts you in a tight spot or provides less than desired shelter from wind or current, take this prescription for a good night's sleep:
Arctic Traveller
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*In the West, we call it "yard art"* As for a better anchor, I left hints everywhere on the boat when I finished my rotation.* I copied catalog pages of anchors and left the photos everywhere on the bridge. I took one and wrote "for a better nights sleep, use one before bedtime" and taped it on the overhead so when he laid down to sleep he would see it. I even unrolled the toilet paper, inserted one and rolled it back up so it would fall out later.* The last thing I did was change the screen saver on the nav system to a picture of a huge anchor with the words, "we need a new anchor".
When I came back for another rotation, he had changed it to read "we LOVE our anchor"* As you might guess, no new anchor.
As for the windlass, there is no idle side, since it's a commercial hydraulic drum type with just one drum......Arctic Traveller
2DASEA
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I've used 2 anchors plenty of times. In tight anchorages , if others are on two. In tidal creeks, hang on one for the Ebb and the other for the flood. One anchor will work here , depending on stength of tide(current), bottom conditions and the ability of the anchor to reset itself 4 times a day! I sleep better with 2! I also will sometimes set 2 for a big blow about 30 degrees either side of the expected wind direction. Anchor Alarms work if you don't sleep through them!
macka17
Member
Hi.
Setting one. then travelling sideways to end of scope. set other one. Haul back to half of original scope. Let both out to suit from there and tie off. is one way we use.
But if ground at all "iffy". I normally lower one on 10 ft of chain. Shackle that to head of my admiralty pick.
Then lower rest of way, and set as usual.
Normally use the Plough or Bruce first, ahead of primary.
And the only anchor I would use to go to sleep on. Anywhere. after 60ish yrs at sea.
Is a LARGE admiralty pick. with bigger flukes welded onto the arms of.
my 34 ft yacht has a 60lb one side of stemhead. and 35lb Plough t'other.
Primary. ALL chain. Secondary. chain and 100mtrs 19mm nylon.
Storm\Mooring anchor (80lb Admiralty) under stairs with swivel and 40ft of chain.
42 fter had. 75lb Admiralty. 45lb plough. Both had quick release sand anchors for a brake at stern.
These modern toys may be ok on a day anchorage.
But if I'm going to sleep. I'll stick to the proven over decades anchors thank you.
Admiralty. Plough, and Bruce on a short scope only.
As big as I can carry and handle...
*
Alarm.*
Garmin have good alarm. and with Radar sleeping on proximity radius alarm.
. That covers you. and others moving into your radius.
-- Edited by macka17 on Saturday 14th of January 2012 05:38:28 PM
-- Edited by macka17 on Saturday 14th of January 2012 05:41:59 PM
Setting one. then travelling sideways to end of scope. set other one. Haul back to half of original scope. Let both out to suit from there and tie off. is one way we use.
But if ground at all "iffy". I normally lower one on 10 ft of chain. Shackle that to head of my admiralty pick.
Then lower rest of way, and set as usual.
Normally use the Plough or Bruce first, ahead of primary.
And the only anchor I would use to go to sleep on. Anywhere. after 60ish yrs at sea.
Is a LARGE admiralty pick. with bigger flukes welded onto the arms of.
my 34 ft yacht has a 60lb one side of stemhead. and 35lb Plough t'other.
Primary. ALL chain. Secondary. chain and 100mtrs 19mm nylon.
Storm\Mooring anchor (80lb Admiralty) under stairs with swivel and 40ft of chain.
42 fter had. 75lb Admiralty. 45lb plough. Both had quick release sand anchors for a brake at stern.
These modern toys may be ok on a day anchorage.
But if I'm going to sleep. I'll stick to the proven over decades anchors thank you.
Admiralty. Plough, and Bruce on a short scope only.
As big as I can carry and handle...
*
Alarm.*
Garmin have good alarm. and with Radar sleeping on proximity radius alarm.
. That covers you. and others moving into your radius.
-- Edited by macka17 on Saturday 14th of January 2012 05:38:28 PM
-- Edited by macka17 on Saturday 14th of January 2012 05:41:59 PM
honeybadger
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Alarm
Downloaded an app last winter when staying at SunSet cove in Stuart and thought it was cool untill it went off a few times just by loosing the siginal and regaining it before correcting the position. Sounded off i was running topside spotlighting all the boats around us at 3AM to find we were right were we started. Deleted it and said oh well.
Downloaded an app last winter when staying at SunSet cove in Stuart and thought it was cool untill it went off a few times just by loosing the siginal and regaining it before correcting the position. Sounded off i was running topside spotlighting all the boats around us at 3AM to find we were right were we started. Deleted it and said oh well.
AlanT
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Great thread!
I set two anchors on one occasion in 4 years of living aboard a heavy 50' sailboat. My primary was a a Spade and the secondary a Delta. The Spade sets easily and has only dragged once. This was in soft mud. I set the Spade, it started to drag, I rest it then in increasing wind set the Delta in 40+ kts of wind and both anchors dragged equally back to the fulcrum in a sad twisted mess. All ended well but it did not inspire me on the increased holding strength of a pattern of two anchors. In my experience the load was either 100% on one anchor or 100% on the other. That was the first and last time that I deployed (or felt that I had to deploy) the Delta in 4 years and close to 20,000NM . I swear by the Spade and respect anyone who swears by their choice, regardless of brand. In order to go to bed at anchor you first have to believe that your anchor will hold you!
I use Drag Queen on my new ride, a 4788 Bayliner, and so far am impressed. It runs (with a 12v cord) through the night and keeps GPS readings while below decks. Nice tool!
I set two anchors on one occasion in 4 years of living aboard a heavy 50' sailboat. My primary was a a Spade and the secondary a Delta. The Spade sets easily and has only dragged once. This was in soft mud. I set the Spade, it started to drag, I rest it then in increasing wind set the Delta in 40+ kts of wind and both anchors dragged equally back to the fulcrum in a sad twisted mess. All ended well but it did not inspire me on the increased holding strength of a pattern of two anchors. In my experience the load was either 100% on one anchor or 100% on the other. That was the first and last time that I deployed (or felt that I had to deploy) the Delta in 4 years and close to 20,000NM . I swear by the Spade and respect anyone who swears by their choice, regardless of brand. In order to go to bed at anchor you first have to believe that your anchor will hold you!
I use Drag Queen on my new ride, a 4788 Bayliner, and so far am impressed. It runs (with a 12v cord) through the night and keeps GPS readings while below decks. Nice tool!
Phil Fill
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I am a newbe when it comes to anchoring, a confirmed Dock Queen 
and undecided if one large anchor, 90+ lbs or two medium size anchor, 60 lbs each would work best. Also if the two medium anchors, 60 lbs where two different types, fluke and plough. Being the type of anchor, plough/fluke are recommended for different bottoms. Fluke is recommend for soft sandy weed free bottoms and the plough hard rock/stone and weed bottom.
As most of you know we have a 65# Forjord, primary, 55# QCR, and a 60# Danforth, secondary, as that is all my wife can lift lift at one time.
So I would think having two medium anchors would be better than having one heavier primary, and the type of bottom would decided weather the Danforth or QCR secondary?
Also would drop the secondary anchor first, QCR or danforth connect to the primary, forjord and drop the primary with the required scope, resulting in a straight pull on both anchors. It would seem having two anchor spread apart and with different setting/holding would tend to foul if the wind/tide changed direction?
and undecided if one large anchor, 90+ lbs or two medium size anchor, 60 lbs each would work best. Also if the two medium anchors, 60 lbs where two different types, fluke and plough. Being the type of anchor, plough/fluke are recommended for different bottoms. Fluke is recommend for soft sandy weed free bottoms and the plough hard rock/stone and weed bottom. As most of you know we have a 65# Forjord, primary, 55# QCR, and a 60# Danforth, secondary, as that is all my wife can lift lift at one time.
So I would think having two medium anchors would be better than having one heavier primary, and the type of bottom would decided weather the Danforth or QCR secondary? Also would drop the secondary anchor first, QCR or danforth connect to the primary, forjord and drop the primary with the required scope, resulting in a straight pull on both anchors. It would seem having two anchor spread apart and with different setting/holding would tend to foul if the wind/tide changed direction?
While there can be instances where setting more than one anchor can be beneficial (I'm not talking about a stern anchor here but two from the bow) the hassle of setting and recovering them would make one large anchor far more preferable to my way of thinking in most situations. If one has a good and properly sized and powered windlass the anchor size should not make any difference.
I don't believe in anchors that are streamlined to move in the direction of pull (CQR, Delta) and I believe the Bruce is a design that only works reliably in truly large sizes. But Forfjords, Danforths/Fortresses, the rollbar anchors--- anchors with flukes designed to resist the direction of pull rather than slide toward it--- are all anchors I would trust in "oversized" sizes with all-chain rode.
I don't believe in anchors that are streamlined to move in the direction of pull (CQR, Delta) and I believe the Bruce is a design that only works reliably in truly large sizes. But Forfjords, Danforths/Fortresses, the rollbar anchors--- anchors with flukes designed to resist the direction of pull rather than slide toward it--- are all anchors I would trust in "oversized" sizes with all-chain rode.
Phil: While you're at the dock try dropping and retrieving 2 anchors as you have outlined. They don't have to be set. I think you'll find it's a major PIA. I'd go extra large on the anchor and pick one. Trying to switch anchors based on bottom conditions would be difficult I'd think.
millennium
Veteran Member
Why not two anchors on one rode?
If wind is expected I will use ten feet of chain to attach the second anchor to the first. The second anchor is light enough so I can pull it in after the main is retrived via the windlass.
I will have a good scope so the first anchor is not pulled free by the drag of the second.
If wind is expected I will use ten feet of chain to attach the second anchor to the first. The second anchor is light enough so I can pull it in after the main is retrived via the windlass.
I will have a good scope so the first anchor is not pulled free by the drag of the second.
Delfin
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That can work, but only if the lead anchor has an attachment point designed to drag another anchor without compromising the setting of the primary. There must be others, but the Rocna is the only one I know of that has made a provision for tandem anchoring. If you can find a Rocna made before the company started cheapening the metallurgy you might have an option. There are problems with this strategy, though. If the primary drags, then the secondary anchor is running through ground already whipped up by the dragging primary. How much additional grab you get at that point is an open question. I go along with the "pick a huge anchor, couple it with robust rode and fuggetaboutit" school of anchoring strategy.
Carl--- While this has become old news now have you paid any attention to the evolution of Rocna's metallurgy issues? I haven't since ours was made years before the advent of the China "problem," but I see more and more of them in our marina and on boats in the Seaview yard and they are all the current models made today as evidenced by the different shank label and the cast-in lettering at the top of the fluke. The last I heard the company was sold to Canadian Metals although manufacturing is still being done in China. Do you know if the anchors are now being made of what they're supposed to be made of?
Delfin
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No, they are not made of the material that Peter Smith said was essential for them to be made of. Whether the grade of steel they are using is adequate or not, I guess depends on your definition of adequate. I suspect that Smith's assertions that Bisalloy 80 was critical may have been more marketing bluster than engineering fact, although it is still true that their main competitor, Manson, still does use the Bisalloy 80 for its shanks and in my mind represents the clearly superior option. By lying to people about their manufacturing, Smith et al destroyed a good company, which is being salvaged by another company that bought them for a pittance after the effects of the Smith's deceits took their toll. It seems to me that Rocna is being positioned more closely in the marketplace to what it is - a good, if not original design made out of less than optimum materials given the design targeted at the less than discriminating and knowledgeable purchaser.
Moonstruck
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I would rather run the ICW at night than to set two anchors. Other than a stern anchor, I only did it one time. It was a pure PIA. With 8' tides and narrow channels, the current runs very fast in Georgia. Anchored one night in a narrow creek of the ICW. I thought no problem here, the Bahamian moor would work. So, I went in, set an anchor, ran out the slack, moved down current, and set the second anchor. Then the fun began. Letting out slack on one anchor and taking up rode on another is not as easy as it sounded. Remember, while taking up rode on one, the other had to be taut as rode was let out. Got that done. It did work. As the tide changed it did swing around without fouling the props.
Morning time. Current still running. Now, the real fun begins. Let out slack on one while keeping it taut. Take in rode on the other. So far so good. Break the first anchor out with about a 100 lbs of grey clay stuck tightly. Can't take time to get it off. Now, get the other rode that is twice as long in. Run back to the helm, try to crab away from the bank as the windless takes in rode. When the boat is over the first anchor, it breaks out with about 100 lbs of grey clay on it. Great, now there are two anchors dangling from the bow. Try to get boat out to an area with enough room to tend the anchors, and not go around. Finally took the hose and boat hook to push and wash the clay off. There was a huge mess on the front deck of mud, and a pile of rode that had to be straightened and put away.
I guess, I am just not very coordinated, but it will be a rare occurrence if I do that again. Diagrams in books look simple. I may not be that simple.
Morning time. Current still running. Now, the real fun begins. Let out slack on one while keeping it taut. Take in rode on the other. So far so good. Break the first anchor out with about a 100 lbs of grey clay stuck tightly. Can't take time to get it off. Now, get the other rode that is twice as long in. Run back to the helm, try to crab away from the bank as the windless takes in rode. When the boat is over the first anchor, it breaks out with about 100 lbs of grey clay on it. Great, now there are two anchors dangling from the bow. Try to get boat out to an area with enough room to tend the anchors, and not go around. Finally took the hose and boat hook to push and wash the clay off. There was a huge mess on the front deck of mud, and a pile of rode that had to be straightened and put away.
I guess, I am just not very coordinated, but it will be a rare occurrence if I do that again. Diagrams in books look simple. I may not be that simple.
psneeld
Guru
wow!!!!...no big deal as there are several ways to use 2 anchors to hold position...you just have to understand WHY you might want 2 anchors and KNOW what conditions may occur to affect the setting of 2 anchors.
jleonard
Guru
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2008
- Messages
- 5,061
I use two bow anchors on occasion. I think it is easy to set two and retrieve two. At least it has always been easy for me.
FF
Guru
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2007
- Messages
- 22,552
We use a Bahamian moore probably 90% of the time.
Certainly under 3 min to deploy and in the crowded NE , about the only way to be near a mooring field.
Certainly under 3 min to deploy and in the crowded NE , about the only way to be near a mooring field.
Moonstruck
Guru
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2008
- Messages
- 8,276
- Location
- USA
- Vessel Name
- Moonstruck
- Vessel Make
- Sabre 42 Hardtop Express
I just found this. It's good to know that I am not alone. Anchoring in narrow channels with the boat turning 360 degrees in a fast reversing current is not for the faint of heart. Just found this.
http://www.windsongsail.com/2/stories/stegall/storiesstegall_0804.pdf
http://www.windsongsail.com/2/stories/stegall/storiesstegall_0804.pdf
Hi Mate. My 2c on this is deploy the rear anchor first, wait, for it to grab, when the boat has finished swinging around, lower the bow anchor and that's it. I've done it this many times with great success. I've often watched others in amusement and amazement do it bow first then struggle with the stern.
To retrieve the rear anchor, I lift the bow, reverse over the rear anchor (avoid hitting the chain with the prop) then lift her up and it's happy days.
Each to their own but give it a go and work out what's best for you.
iPad Forum Runner
Egregious
Guru
AMEN. I carry a heavy CQR which is good for alternating tides/currents. I set 5 or 7 to 1 scope with all chain rode and sleep like a baby. We had 8-1 in Cumberland Sound during a N'oreaster and never slipped. I carry a broken down Fortress in case I need to set a second anchor, but I've never needed it, since I trust my CQR and chain.
My advice is: get a primary anchor that is twice as heavy as you need. And then don't worry.
