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Old 10-06-2012, 09:04 AM   #31
ARoss
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City: Chocowinity NC
Vessel Name: My Yuki
Vessel Model: 1973 Marine Trader 34
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 637
Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
I did the same for my flybridge soft spot. Area repaired was 7 feet by 3 1/2 feet.

The teak was slow going till I gave up and used a 1/2 inch drill with a 3/4 hole saw no mandrel to drill around the bungs. The teak then pulled up easy and the black stuff came up easy to..what didn't easily sanded. The screws then were easy to deal with...if the head was good, the 1/2 inch drill was used, if the screw head was filled with goop or repair goop...vice grips easily spun it out. The whole bridge deck with cutting out the seats only took a couple days once I discovered the hole saw method.

For the soft spot a circular saw was used to cut the top skin and down through the block core, pulled out all the teak blocks...because the roof beams were so close...I used 1/2 inch marine 7ply as the core with just with splotches of thickened epoxy to tack it down, epoxied the top skin back on and faired in the cuts. Whole top deck got a layer of 6oz cloth, 18 oz roving and topped with 6oz cloth. Paint and non-skid but ultimately will have a light grey outdoor carpet cover the whole area to hide the occasional imperfection, provide traction and a bit of insulation.

Top pic finished repair prior to painting, bottom pic exploratory surgery...

How did the carpeting past of the project turn out? My flybridge deck is solid, following a re-do by the PO but a little bumpy the way the "non-skid" was applied. I have been thinking about covering it all with exterior carpet. I see lots of Searay-type boats, as well as pontoon and deck boats, with exposed carpeting, and of course it's an additional maintenance item, but what I have now ain't great-looking. Has anyone else done this? Regrets?
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