Does anyone have chb haulout pics of rudder and keel

Something bad happened during haulout... My lower piece off the keel that supports the rudder disappeared... I need pics to see how to fabricate a new support.

Which CHB model? Single or twin?

David

Single

saintglen:

Those were two different questions. Yachtworld lists CHB single engine trawlers from 34 to 41 feet. Which one?

David

My apologizes, its a trawler/ sundecker 33ft

2nd is part that broke off from keel to rudder pivot

This might help. We're a Senator 35.....but might be similar...

Ours is an MT34 DC so don't know if this helps. Chuck

OUCH! Good thing everyone is so helpful! Hope you get it repaired soon

34 CHB Euro Sedan

Better shot.

Now I am thinking of adding some kind of support to ours when we pull this Fall. Any suggestions? Steel plate on either side thru-bolted, maybe? One up from the bottom?

Perfect guys! I will be adding a 18 inch piece of 316 stainless channel probably 3/8 thick with a bronze block for the rudder pivot. Was think polyurethane but not sure how it would hold up to the salt... Any insights?

To add interest here this is what Willard did. The shoe is a robust bronze casting that has a lip or flange on the top of the fwd part on the inbd side. There is a matching grove in the deadwood/keel that fits the shoe. A bolt at the fwd end keeps the shoe from sliding out or back.
To remove tear out the bedding, raise the rudder a bit, take out the retaining bolt and slide the shoe out.
The shoe of course is bullet proof but is dependent on the structural integrity of the deadwood. That seems very stout and I've not heard of any troubles there w the many other Willards on the Willard Boat Owners Group (Yahoo).

The early CHB/MT 34's were built with no support from the keel to the rudder. The first couple of pics of other 34's show the original design, and another boater's attempt to protect the prop with what looks like angle iron. The bottom two shots are my boat during a haulout several years ago. A PO glassed in the keel and ran a channel of stainless steel, thru-bolted and extended under the prop, primarily I suspect to keep pot lines, etc out of the prop. I don't think it'd afforded a lot of protection in aa grounding.
I thought about installing a pin/pivot from the support to the prop last time I had the boat hauled, but the budget on other stuff got away from me and I didn't figure the prop was going anywhere after running unsupported for almost 40 years.

Very cool. My keel is
Square and no way to groove it without extensive fabricating. Im almost thinking about shoeing my whole keel with stainless.

30 Foot Lein Hwa Seahorse. I had a Lehman 120hp. After much research found that 1600-1750 is the ideal cruise rpm. It did burn 1.5-2gph depending on headwind or following sea. I know have the Ford Dover 143hp. It gets the same economy, easier to work on, same footprint, same motor mounts with adjustment, utilize same guages. The Ford Dover also gave me an extra 2kts of speed. I am able to throttle back on the Ford Dover @ 1400 rpm and maintain a 7-8 kts cruise speed.

I too am consdering shoeing with stainless the majority of the keel (widest sections).

Good luck on your trip south! Take a parts cruise kit for your Lehman. American Diesel or Bomac Marine are good sources.

Be aware of SS and bronze together - potential galvanic corrosion.

Read with interest your issue with broken skeg. I have a MT 34, after being laid up for the winter skeg has cracked open from ice within. Do you know what material is inside the encased skeg. I can drill into it from the bottom, seems to be SS running on both sides, cannot drill through. I've completed a repair to allow use of the boat this summer but will have to remedy situation when boat is hauled out in fall. Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks

I had a similar situation last summer when I struck a submerged object. I am searching for repair pics. I had marina in Cape Charles fabricate a new rudder and skeg extension from stainless steel.

JoshW said:

I had a similar situation last summer when I struck a submerged object. I am searching for repair pics. I had marina in Cape Charles fabricate a new rudder and skeg extension from stainless steel. View attachment 75507

Click to expand...

Here is repair picture showing how the skeg extension and rudder were constructed. Also a picture of it disassembled again now to replace the shaft log which I am currently working on.

JoshW said:

I had a similar situation last summer when I struck a submerged object. I am searching for repair pics. I had marina in Cape Charles fabricate a new rudder and skeg extension from stainless steel. View attachment 75507

Click to expand...

Bet that accident was noisy and really exciting. Be thankful you had the skeg.
You had a noticeable loss of steerage ?

The rudder post was not bent?

Rudder/propeller skeg

Thanks for the pics. If I understand correctly you replaced the skeg with a redesigned version? Any idea what material was inside the old skeg? I'm thinking there is a water penetration issue from either the rudder post or the possibly the stern gland, leaving water within which freezes in the winter and splits the skeg open.

1976 mt 40 dc

OldDan1943 said:

Bet that accident was noisy and really exciting. Be thankful you had the skeg.
You had a noticeable loss of steerage ?

The rudder post was not bent?

Click to expand...

I had pretty good steerage in one direction only. Was able to return to Cape Charles unassisted, it was a white knuckle experiance.

As far as the rudder post being bent, the yard was able to cut off the damaged/bent part and weld a coupling flange on. That makes the redesigned rudder removable without pulling rudder stock.

tsunami3 said:

Thanks for the pics. If I understand correctly you replaced the skeg with a redesigned version? Any idea what material was inside the old skeg? I'm thinking there is a water penetration issue from either the rudder post or the possibly the stern gland, leaving water within which freezes in the winter and splits the skeg open.

Click to expand...

The skeg was replaced/sistered on the bottom with some 3" box tubing. The broken fiberglass skeg was glassed over. The exposed section of broken skeg was a combination of plywood and lots of fiberglass. I don't if it was original construction as there was evidence of prior repairs. I also had water penetration which I'm certain was coming from my failed shaft log.

I’m supprised that the hull lines are so very similar to the early GBs. I thought there was less submerged transom on the CHB and more deadrise amidships and fwd. That would give the CHB some rocker and make it closer to a FD hull. Better at lower speeds like 6.5 to 7.5 knots but reluctant to run 8 knots or more.

Aross’s boat in the #1 pic on post #15 Appears to be much more shallow at the transom submerging little of her transom. If she drew a little less water she’d be a FD boat.
Saintglen’s boat in the #1 pic on post #6 Appears to sit deeper in the water. More like the GB w more transom submerged. The WL is obvious In Saintglen’s boat. But it’s appears to be about 4-5” above the transom judging from the zinc.
Aross’s boat looks like the transom is more submerged but it could or more likely be just because the W/L is gone. If he painter the AF paint up higher than Aross’s boat they could be the same but look different. The boat that looks lower in the water lacks the aft cabin and should be lighter.

What do you CHB owners think?

JoshW said:

The skeg was replaced/sistered on the bottom with some 3" box tubing. The broken fiberglass skeg was glassed over. The exposed section of broken skeg was a combination of plywood and lots of fiberglass. I don't if it was original construction as there was evidence of prior repairs. I also had water penetration which I'm certain was coming from my failed shaft log.

Click to expand...

Looks good. Now it is better than before.
All better.

Here's ours. I would love to have a solid steel support attached to this although it could well have one inside.