SARCA demo DVD

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I still have the DVD from Anchor Right that Peter sent me. Would like to send it to someone else. PM me your address and I'll send it. I wonder if the Seattle Distributor is up and running by now selling SARCA's. What say Rex or Peter?
 
I still have the DVD from Anchor Right that Peter sent me. Would like to send it to someone else. PM me your address and I'll send it.
Not sure if it is the same video,but there are video demonstrations of Sarca anchors on Anchor Right Australia.

Can anyone help me with this. I`m attaching a 12mm s/steel shackle to the slot of my new (gal) Super Sarca as directed,it effectively forms part of the anchor and Rex says to hammer/burr the screw pin end and grind down the key end. Logic says the U of the shackle sits in the slot, pin upwards, any thoughts on that? (Let`s avoid discussing the slot design itself).

I plan using a 3/8 s/steel shackle between the 12mm shackle and the 3/8 gal chain. I`m mixing s/steel and gal, but friends with a s/steel swivel between a gal anchor and gal chain have seen no ill effect (I am NOT fitting a swivel), I`m more trusting of a s/steel shackle quality than of gal. BruceK
 
BruceK ... You wrote " Logic says the U of the shackle sits in the slot, pin upwards,". Well if the U part of the shackle is in the slot and the anchor was upright the "U" would need to be horizontal unless the shackle has a 09 Degree twist.
Then you write "I`m more trusting of a s/steel shackle quality than of gal. BruceK" I think galvanized shackles ARE steel except for the thin coating of zinc. I think you've got the best anchor in the world and I'd do what Rex says too.
 
BruceK ... You wrote " Logic says the U of the shackle sits in the slot, pin upwards,". Well if the U part of the shackle is in the slot and the anchor was upright the "U" would need to be horizontal unless the shackle has a 09 Degree twist.
I`m not using a 90(or 09) degree twist shackle. I`m exploring whether the pin or the U section of the shackle sits in the slot. Once fitted it can`t change position. I think it`s the U section. Maybe the "downunder" thing is getting in the way,I`ll ask Rex. BruceK
 
No, Bruce, the pin part goes through the slot. And there is no need to have the other 3/8th shackle then. The U part of the shackle goes through the last chain link. You are complicating a beautifully simple arrangement if you do what you describe. It would also totally ruin the way the slot works. Burring the threaded end and grinding down the key end is to stop it being able to work itself undone and to stop the key end catching in the roller assembly. The ideal shackle is a gauge larger than your chain, (which you have), and preferably one with longer than standard limbs, so the U is slightly elongated. That helps to lock it in the slot if there is sideways tension. See below..tho I still do use a swivel, because it makes it easier to swing the anchor around if it comes up point outwards, which does sometimes happen. However, I must admit doing away with the swivel then obviates the need for the second shackle, so as so many are anti swivels, I might well one day try that, as you intend to do. Let me know how that works for you Bruce, in terms of coming up right way round or not twisting.

These were taken when trying to demonstrate (to Marin) how it locks in the slot and does not easily slide up and unset the anchor with sideways pull - or anything other than pull from directly above and in line. I must also admit I use a wire twist through the key to lock mine, and have not ground the key end down, but it does once in a while need a kick to get it to deploy if the protruding pin end catches on the roller assembly. Never a significant issue however.
 

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Some time ago as I recall we decided that the reason lots of anchors have the hole at the end of the shank elongated was so the flattened ends of the shackle would pass through it. Usually chain will not so w a round hole one is destined to need 2 shackles to get hooked up.

Glad you showed up Peter and your pics cleared up the last bit of SARCA-shackle concept that I hadn't got into my head. I went back and looked at your pics and I think your'e going to need a 2nd shackle w/o the swivel. I don't think your shackle ends (where the pin goes through) will go through the last link of your chain. Or will it? If it does I'd wonder if the shackle is strong enough. I wonder about other things in life too but that seems to be my mission.
 
Actually, Eric, you might be right there. I think that was why In the end I stuck with the swivel. There was going to have to be an extra shackle anyway, so what the hell? - keep the swivel, as it does make aligning the anchor easier and is still stronger than the chain links. I hope Bruce picks up on this before he does anything too drastic. When I had a coffee and a chat with Rex at the last Sanctuary Cove Boat Show, I asked him why the anchors were not just sold with the correct shackle shape and type already mounted, and his reply was because he would then have no control over what quality of steel the shackle supplied by the vendors was made of, and he did not like to compromise their reputation with that risk, as there is quite a variation in quality, as you know. Fair enough I guess. Which begs the question, what if it was supplied correctly from the factory...but...ok...sadly I suppose some unscrupulous salesman might swap it for a cheaper type...
PS. Bruce, if you did contact Rex of Sarca (Anchorright), did he give you the same advice as I gave above? I hope so. I'd hate to put someone astray, but it has worked for me 10 years.
 
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Thank you Peter and Eric.
I`ve not done anything drastic yet, just checked a 3/8 shackle against my chain today; I need it,or the swivel I was not game to fit after some posts on another thread.It may go on yet. My reading says they are ok if you don`t directly connect anchor and chain with one.
Rex may be saying he can vouch for the anchor he makes,but not a shackle he buys in. (It could relate to Public Liability Ins.) He advised burring the threaded end and grinding the tab on the shackle pin.
I may delay fitting until the boat comes up in a few weeks to antifoul, and for the shipwright to redo some bubbled paint,including the windlass cover,which being alloy must be primed immediately after sanding the raw surface or it corrodes. BruceK
 
Glad to help a fellow 'Sarca' man, Bruce.
Dyin' to hear how you feel after a few times out on the pick with it.
 
I think Rex should buck up and get control of his shackle inventory. XYZ provides what I think is a very good shackle but I don't know for sure. I have purchased several shackles separately from him. Shouldn't be too difficult to get a good documented source and stick w it. I think it's an important part of his product. And Rex gets so much praise here from me he can afford a tad bit of criticism.

Yes I think so Peter that the swivel could be structurally sound if kept in-line w the chain. Good point.
 
Hi IoanIanc. Welcome to the conversation. Not totally sure what you meant however, would you like to build on that a bit? Would you not leave the dock without the video - hardly likely. Or did you mean you have a Sarca, and would not leave the dock without it - that I could understand. if you do have one, how and where did you obtain it, for the info of fellow North Americans..?
 
I think we should have a sub forum in the anchor forum called 'The Sarca Boys' with Peter,Eric and Bruce as moderators.:socool:
 
Oho...that wouldn't be the green-eyed monster talking would it Andy? You too could have one you know. Don't tell me you are still using a plow...?
 
A proud 44lb plough. Although I could be tempted.
 
My SARCA Excel and I are heading to the Sandy Straits on Thursday.
Should have a good work out over the next few months. Going to base the boat up at Urangan for a while.
 
"SARCA Boys"?

I've definitely been called worse but whose going to drive the conversation w/o someone out there stating the heavily veiled truth to someone that needs glasses. Also Andy do you really think we could find something new to say about anchors? That would be a feat in itself but if anyone was up to it it would be this group. The three guys you named are steadfast in their opinions but that in itself could be reason for it going on for another 75 posts. Count me out though as I'm going to put this computer in a box VERY soon.

Oh .. the DVD is packed away now.
 
"Would not leave the dock with out it."
4 hours a year not tied up is not a huge CRISIS...
:facepalm:

I hear what he's saying, but what does he mean..?
 
Guys, Rex of Sarca says the following fellow says he still intends to import the Sarcas to the US. He suggests some folk might like to give him a call to jog things along. Nothing like potential customers showing some interest...



Joseph B. H. Smith
Director, Special Projects
-----------------------------
NRC ( Products Sales Group)
9520 10th Avenue S., Suite 175
Seattle WA 98108 USA
PH: +1-206-378-4101; FX: +1-206-378-4103
Mobile: +1-206-423-2661; SKYPE: sepseattle1
Email: jbhsmith@nrcc.com
Web Site: National Response Corp. - Home
 
I think we should have a sub forum in the anchor forum called 'The Sarca Boys' with Peter,Eric and Bruce as moderators.:socool:

No self-respecting anchor forum moderator would be named Bruce! (Apologies to the real Bruce!)
 
That's all right he is just a stick in the mud!:rofl:

Call me slow, but I just realised the the Latin word for anchor is ancora.............does this mean all anchors will naturally set to the starboard side and will not set at all in areas of global warming.:D
 
My SARCA Excel is now set in the slightly muddy bottom at Pelican Point just inside the Wide Bay Bar.
Don't think we will be giving it a test tonight.
Anchored in 4 mts of water and wind strength toping out at 4 knots.
Life is good
 
Sounds good Benn. Yes, I'm jealous.
Actually I can't use Lotus just for now. I had to do some dentistry on my boat recently - well, sort of dentistry - had to dig a hole then fill it. Found over winter a dozy, soft area of wet rot in the cabin wall under the aft port saloon window, from water getting inside the glass to frame join. Last weekend, emboldened by the company of one of my son's friends, who is a cabinet-maker, we attacked the section with a router, removed it, and Wednesday pm I went down and set in place a marine ply filler. Now all that's left is the cosmetic bit outside, and to replace the interior teak veneer we damaged in the process, and good as new. I'll post some before and after pics in near future.
Good to hear Tidahapa is back in action. I know you has some issues over the past couple of years. How's the new engine performing..?
 
Peter,
Mr G is going great guns.
Steamed up at 1200 RPM just on 7.5 knots fuel burn 12.5 lts/hr on the Floscan and the cruise alternator on 51 Hz.
All is good with the world once more.

Next time out will put a bit more pitch in the prop to get 8 knots at 1230 RPM and 51 Hz on the cruise alternator.
Will stay up the Straits for a couple of weeks and most likely base the boat in Urangan until Xmas or early Jan.
I don't think we will go any further north this year.
 
Peter. This maybe a silly question but where do you source your teak veneer from.

I have some window leak repair I need to do and need to find some teak veneer.

John
 
Peter. This maybe a silly question but where do you source your teak veneer from.
I have some window leak repair I need to do and need to find some teak veneer.
John
Rebel, I got it from 'Mr Ply.' If you Google it, you'll find your nearest supplier. Where are you based? If there is not one near you, then Googling marine construction supplies etc could help.
 
Thanks Peter.
The boats in Sydney so will start there.
 
No self-respecting anchor forum moderator would be named Bruce! (Apologies to the real Bruce!)
That could be me,or maybe the much maligned inventor of the anchor,which I believe started life as an anchor for offshore oil drill platforms,which don`t rotate to the breeze.
I`ve yet to fit the Sarca,we looked like being free to anchor out overnight a lot more when our old non boating dog who can`t go to kennnels got a bad diagnosis from the vet. I decided to make anchoring more sure,though the CQR which came on the boat has been reliable, but as I learned when replacing a 25yo refrigerator at home,most design improves/evolves with time. Said dog is defying diagnosis, urgency is less,but I`m interested (without reopening the swivel debate in general and causing irritation) in experiences of only Super Sarca users with swivels. BruceK
 
Bruce, thanks to Eric (Manyboats) pointing out something I had forgotten, namely that the larger sized shackle recommended for the chain size will not go through the 10mm (3/8") chain link, so as another smaller dimension shackle was necessary anyway, I thought, what the heck, and added the shackle back in. I was going to leave it out after the adverse comments made elsewhere re swivels, but really, it does make aligning the anchor up for retrieval on the odd occasion it comes up backwards mucheasier, and does help avoid twists, and as it is a heavier dimension and stronger than the chain, which is therefore still the 'weakest link', there seems no logical reason not to have it there.
 
Peter,

I'm basically anti-swivel but if it's oversized and ALWAYS pulls in-line I see no downside either.
 
Peter--- As I'm sure you know, the fact that the strength of a swivel is rated as strong or stronger than the chain is not the issue. It is only rated this way in a straight-through pull. The swivel is not rated nearly that strong if a sideways load is applied to it.

If as Eric mentions above the swivel is attached in such a way that it will always be lined up with the direction of pull no matter what the boat does in relation to the anchor then the weak sideways strength is not an issue. But in looking at boats in our marina, it's always amazing to see how many swivels are either mounted backwards or are designed in such a way that the ONLY way to mount them is in a way that will subject them to sideways loads on the swivel pin.

As I've mentioned before we used a swivel initially and we had it mounted correctly. But after reading Earl Hinz's book about anchoring and mooring and realizing that the swivel was playing no functional role in our anchoring setup at all--- if the anchor comes up out of alignment with the pulpit it's simple matter to reach out and align it by hand--- we eliminated the swivel as I believe the fewer components there are between the anchor and the boat the better. A swivel of sufficient strength and properly mounted should not break. A swivel that is not there at all will never break.:)

I have only seen one swivel that I would use if we felt we really needed a swivel. And that is the WASI Powerball. Very, very expensive, though, and since a swivel would be of no benefit to us at all we fortunately don't have to spend the money.
 

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