For Sale: Lectra San Systems

[FOG]

I have 2 Lectra San systems that I am planning to sell.
Does anyone have an idea of what 2 working systems might be worth?

 

[psneeld]

I put one in a few years ago and studied all the alternative like mad.

I would say around 3 to $500 a piece depending on overall condition.

The electrodes cost over $300/device and only have a coupke year life expectancy in both my exoerience and the factory's opinion.

You might get an ebay sucker to pay near full price, but expecting more than $300 in my opinion would be marginal. Ask a little higher to start with.

 

[Obx]

Fog
Wish I had known you were selling yours I just bought one. But I may know someone who would be interested an they are at southport marina right by you. That's where we keep our boat also. We're coming with a group of boats next month to Wilmington for a weekend maybe we can meet

 

[FOG]

I put one in a few years ago and studied all the alternative like mad.

I would say around 3 to $500 a piece depending on overall condition.

The electrodes cost over $300/device and only have a coupke year life expectancy in both my exoerience and the factory's opinion.

You might get an ebay sucker to pay near full price, but expecting more than $300 in my opinion would be marginal. Ask a little higher to start with.

Thanks for the info.
Do you know how to determine the condition of the electrodes? Is it a physical thing where they just erode away or ???

 

[psneeld]

The current becomes an issue and low amp warning start appearing unless in very salty water or you adf a lot of salt.

No way to look at the plates and tell that I know of.

 

[sdowney717]

The electrode plates are titanium and do not wear out. What wears out is the copper wire that connects to the plate. Eventually the heat on the plate compromises the watertight seal, and the connection between plate and wire gets wet.
I have an old electrode I cut open to see why it had failed. IF you could somehow connect a titanium wire to the plates, then I think these electrodes would last a very long time.

The titanium plate has an expanded center that they pass the copper wire through, then it is squeezed down crimping it together.

 

[psneeld]

There is some kind of coating on the electrodes.

The techs say that has something to do with the effectiveness of the plates.

 

[sdowney717]

I had heard that before about a coating, but I also heard not true for new electrodes today.

A proper working electrode will draw 18 amps for the 12 vdc systems. I added an inline ammeter on mine. Mine is an older model with a rotary knob timer.

If the system is too salty, too much current flows which heats the plates higher and they fail sooner. I setup a salt brine tank with a gravity valve.

 

[psneeld]

I am not sure about too much current if too salty.

There is still a purple coating on the plates.

I spent a lot of time with Raritan Engineers and they recommended more salt when my first electrodes were low amperage too often. They failed spectacularly compared to after adding the brine tank.

 

[sdowney717]

I am not sure about too much current if too salty.

There is still a purple coating on the plates.

I spent a lot of time with Raritan Engineers and they recommended more salt when my first electrodes were low amperage too often. They failed spectacularly compared to after adding the brine tank.

Definitely, I talked with Vic at Raritan before he retired about this.
More salt means a more conductive solution, less resistance, so more amperage will flow. On my controller, it was setup with 3 fuses. I replaced the fuses with snap in breakers.

 

[ksanders]

I have had my electro-scan in service for three seasons and approx 1200 cycles (according to the display). Since I use a hold n treat controller a cycle is not a toilet flush, it's a 10 second macerator pump run.

I have just recently noticed that the unit is taking more salt brine to reach it's amp target.

I am right now today doing the muratic acid cleaning that is recommended by the instruction manual. I am hoping that this reverses or slows the issue.
If not it's new electrode pack time.

 

[Art]

I had a bunch of old Lectra San parts and two fully together Lectra San box units. They had set outside through a few winters and it all was at least 15 yrs old. I sold the whole bunch for $15... to a guy who gad just purchased a 44' 1940's Higgins to restore. He was such a happy camper that he'd not take $5 change after handing me a $20 bill. Sure hope he gets some useful parts out of that bunch.

 

[psneeld]

I have had my electro-scan in service for three seasons and approx 1200 cycles (according to the display). Since I use a hold n treat controller a cycle is not a toilet flush, it's a 10 second macerator pump run.

I have just recently noticed that the unit is taking more salt brine to reach it's amp target.

I am right now today doing the muratic acid cleaning that is recommended by the instruction manual. I am hoping that this reverses or slows the issue.
If not it's new electrode pack time.

I would buy a new set. I get 2500 to 3000 cycles per year and they degrade after 3000 and maybe I will get 4000 out of this set. But using 2X the salt in salt water.

I dont know if they detetiorate just sitting or only if processing. But they seem to go pretty fast based on what the literature says they are rated for.

 

[ksanders]

I would buy a new set. I get 2500 to 3000 cycles per year and they degrade after 3000 and maybe I will get 4000 out of this set. But using 2X the salt in salt water.

I dont know if they detetiorate just sitting or only if processing. But they seem to go pretty fast based on what the literature says they are rated for.

Think I will. Cool thing is I'm replacing the carpet in the spring, so it would be a great time to put a hatch right above the unit. Right now working on it means de-installing it since its tucked in the corner of the engine room, where it's a PITA to get to.

 

[sdowney717]

I want to share some of the discussion on LectraSan I had with Vic.
Which gave me some useful info. Others might want to know.

lectrasan, how much extra salt needed to get meter to green?
Inbox
x

scott downey 8/5/11
I need to know what is normal and what is not normal behavior for the unit. I...

Vic Willman <vic@raritaneng.com>
8/8/11

to me
08 August 2011 -- Scott Downey

On those older units, it was virtually impossible to get the meter to come up into the green area. The problem wasn’t the electrode pack or the amount of salt that was applied; it was the meter itself. If you aren’t getting any foul odor or dark discharge going out into the water when the head flushes, chances are that it actually is working properly. If you can give me a call during business hours (eastern time) at (800) 352-5630, extension 244, I can tell you how to adjust the meter so that it reads correctly.

You probably got the correct voltage electrode pack. It has 2 sides, with 3 plates, each plate sticks out the same amount on each side – the 3 on one side are longer than the 3 on the other side, but on each side, they’re all 3 the same size. 24 and 32 volt electrode packs are configured a good deal different (and are a good deal more expensive – retail price for the 12 volt is $360.00, for the 24 volt, $650.00, and for the 32 volt, $500.00).

Best Regards, Raritan Engineering Company, Inc.
G. Victor Willman, Senior Technical Advisor

Celebrating more than half a century of Quality, Dependability and Reliability
www.raritaneng.com



From: scott downey [mailto:sdowney717@gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, August 05, 2011 4:11 PM
To: techsupport@raritaneng.com
Subject: lectrasan, how much extra salt needed to get meter to green?
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.901 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3811 - Release Date: 08/04/11 14:34:00


scott downey <sdowney717@gmail.com>
8/9/11

to Vic
thanks for getting back with me.

More testing I did this.
I pulled all 3 fuses (self resetting breakers now)
I flushed the electric head water for a couple of minutes to clear out water in the Lectrasan with new brackish water from the Back River in Hampton, VA
I took out the top plug and poured in 1/4 to 1/3 cup of table salt directly into the thing.
I ran the mixer motors to stir and dissolve in the salt for a couple minutes
I took an amp meter and placed it across the fuse terminal and energized just the electrode pack.
The amp meter reads about 22 to 23 amps. This sounds about right.

I noticed you can take off the plastic cover from the control box meter and turn the meter needle adjustment up so it reads in the green, but then of course the baseline is raised slightly into the lower red portion.
So it sounds like it is working ok with that measurement?


I plan on making a salt brine tank to feed into the supply line. I am going to use a check valve like this in the brine supply to the tee.
Fish Supplies: Fish Tank & Fish Care | DrsFosterSmith.com
I have a blue water 5 gallon supply tank with a builtin valve, (basically a HD HDPE plastic water tank) a plastic 3/4 tee with a threaded center and a 3/4 nylon hose barb with 1/4 inch barb, some vinyl hose, etc...
I already owned most all these parts sitting in the garage unused.
It looks like this valve will easily flow brine and keep seawater from backing into the brine tank.

Where should the inline 'tee' be placed in the line
Can it go close to the head pump input?
Or should it be lower down the line closer to the thru-hull?
What kind of salt in bulk is cheap to use for the brine tank?


Vic Willman <vic@raritaneng.com>
8/9/11

to me
09 August 2011

Yes, that is fine – normal amperage is 17-23. Adjusting the meter’s needle is what I was going to suggest to you, but you’ve already figured it out. Yes, it raises the baseline, but a boarding officer wouldn’t pay any mind to that – he would be concerned with where the top of the needle reads.

The check valve appears to be OK. The inline tee should be in the supply water line to the head, preferably above the waterline, the closer to the head’s pump, the better. Your reservoir tank will need to be below the location of the in-line adapter or all your brine solution will siphon through and go overboard. Rock salt (solar salt) used in water softeners would probably be the cheapest salt to use. You can get it in 20 lb. bags at places like Home Depot, Lowe’s, etc. Morton’s system Saver in the yellow bag, seems to work the best. A 20 lb. bag, here in NJ is about $5.00.

Best Regards, Raritan Engineering Company, Inc.
G. Victor Willman, Senior Technical Advisor

Celebrating more than half a century of Quality, Dependability and Reliability
www.raritaneng.com



From: scott downey [mailto:sdowney717@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 9:11 AM
To: Vic Willman
Subject: Re: lectrasan, how much extra salt needed to get meter to green?

Version: 9.0.901 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3822 - Release Date: 08/08/11 14:35:00

scott downey <sdowney717@gmail.com>
8/9/11

to Vic
"Your reservoir tank will need to be below the location of the in-line adapter or all your brine solution will siphon through and go overboard."

I was thinking of that.
I am now thinking of using a well water pump check valve.
I found a plastic one at Lowes and it feels like it has a very low cracking pressure and is spring loaded.
What that valve reminds me of are the anti siphon fuel valves for gasoline tanks.
This one is all PVC plastic except for a stainless spring and is threaded on both sides.
I think it is enough to keep the brine in the tank and only flow when the head pump pulls water in.

so far this is what I have.
Imagine a water well valve between the 2 threaded nipples.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I_XiJmKZDDc/TkGAjwvOHSI/AAAAAAAAAQY/JelwuXh8-0U/0809011443.jpg

The ball cock can adjust the flow rate.
I suppose that the head cant pull enough vacuum to lift the brine out the tank top? So it will have to be on its side ready to flow out.

I realized the link I sent you is for aquarium valves and they are for 1/8 inch ID tubing which is likely too small?


scott downey <sdowney717@gmail.com>
8/14/11

to Vic
i got it all working used a well water pvc check valve.
a few more questions,
Can i use KCL instead of NACL?
Can you use a KCL and NACL salt mix, some salt bags contain both.
How about using a dye in the brine tank as a visible indication that brine is flowing into the head?

thanks for any info.


Vic Willman <vic@raritaneng.com>
8/15/11

to me
15 August 2011 -- Scott

Thank you for your e-mail message from yesterday. Please see comments below:

Best Regards, Raritan Engineering Company, Inc.
G. Victor Willman, Senior Technical Advisor

Celebrating more than half a century of Quality, Dependability and Reliability
www.raritaneng.com



From: scott downey [mailto:sdowney717@gmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2011 9:02 PM
To: Vic Willman
Subject: Re: lectrasan, how much extra salt needed to get meter to green?

i got it all working used a well water pvc check valve.
a few more questions,
Can i use KCL instead of NACL? << I don’t think so, and can’t recommend it; different chemical makeup. We’ve never tested anything other than sodium chloride (table salt) and calcium chloride (rock salt). When passing electrical current through some other compound, it could have undesirable results. It could possibly ruin the electrode pack inside the unit, which is the single most expensive part to replace. (#32-5000, $360.00, plus shipping) >>

Can you use a KCL and NACL salt mix, some salt bags contain both. << Stick with the factory recommendations, you’ll be better off that way. >>

How about using a dye in the brine tank as a visible indication that brine is flowing into the head?

<< If you use food coloring from the grocery store, it shouldn’t be a problem. >>

thanks for any info.


Version: 9.0.901 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3835 - Release Date: 08/15/11 02:34:00

 

[psneeld]

If you havent done electrodes yet, I would take it out anyway.

Getting to all the bolts and getting the gasket back on straight is a chore.

In fact, you may want an extra gasket on hand, my original was squeezed into oblivion.

 

[Rogerh]

Agree with PS. I tried to do mine in place and it turned out to be a wasted day. The next day I pulled the unit, replaced the electrodes and reinstalled in about 3 hours. Replacing the electrode is an easy job but you need it on a bench in front of for access to all the bolts and nuts. Next time I replace mine I will need a new gasket too.

 

[Art]

OMG - Aren't holding tanks and macerators for off shore pumping as well as pump outs at fuel docks or with anchor-area traveling pump out boats easier solution for taking care of human waste?


We have a LS on one head and 30 gal black tank on the other. 30 gallon black tank [that has no overboard pump out feature] is our greatly preferred method... in that we pump it out one way or another. I put in place valve/adjustable-flow water inlets for the toilets. In the black tank head we only use from one to three quarts per flush for #2 usage. When flushing the LS head [which, when we use it, is strictly for #1 only] I usually leave the the water valve wide open while running the LS.

 

[psneeld]

If you lived aboard and had a lot of holding because of various reasons, moving the boat to a working pumpout system or running offshore would be way more tedious.

Especially when full and the weather was bad for days.

 

[Art]

If you lived aboard and had a lot of holding because of various reasons, moving the boat to a working pumpout system or running offshore would be way more tedious.

Especially when full and the weather was bad for days.

True!

 

[FOG]

Thanks to all for Lectra San education.
I was going to take the 2 units apart to inspect the plates and clean them up, but after reading all of the posts I think I'll just leave them "as is" and put them up for sale.