• Trawler Forum Classified Posting Guidelines
    • We expect ads placed to be related to the topic of this forum.
    • Ads that are inactive for 180 days or longer may be moved to the Classified Archive and locked. Ads may be relisted if the item is still current. Alternatively, owners may contact a Moderator to reinstate an archived ad.
    • The Classified section is for advertising, members are asked to refrain from posting discussions to a Classified Ad. Please start a discussion thread or PM the owner for discussions.
    • Do not hijack another member's ad by posting unsolicited commentary. Example: if a member has posted an ad offering an anchor for sale, don't add a post to his thread stating that you have an anchor you'd like to get rid of also. Posts deemed as unsolicited commentary may be removed.
    • For your own security, do NOT include your e-mail or phone number in your ad. Instead request that interested parties contact you via PM (private message) to provide owners contact info.
    • Brokers, Dealers, or those with a commercial interest in a sale are prohibited from posting in Classifieds.
    • Only Trawler Forum Commercial Members may post ads in the Commercial section. You must be a designated Commercial Member to start threads in this section of the forum. (Contact a moderator if you have questions about this)
    • Don't post links to commercial sites where you are also offering the boat, such as eBay, Craigslist or Yachtworld, etc. unless it contains a more in-depth description, additional information or pictures.
    • Place only one ad per item (you may repost only when your ad has expired and been removed).
    For Sale ads MUST include:
    • Asking price
    • Location
    • A Basic Description
    • Clear statement whether you are the owner or non-owner (posting for friend, relative, or acquaintance)
    • Don't forget to select: FOR SALE, WANTED or FREE in the Title block.
    All ads should also include ALL the following:
    • Pertinent maintenance and condition information
    • Exterior picture or pictures
    • Interior picture or pictures (boats)
    For maximum impact & exposure, it is suggested the Ad Title include: Year, Manufacturer, Model, Length, Price, and Location or at the very top of the ad body. When your item has sold or the ad is no longer relevant: Please post a Reply to the ad that the item is SOLD or click "Report Post" on post 1 of the thread to ask a moderator to archive the ad. Ads may be moved or removed by our staff at any time for any reason. All ads must comply with site rules. Thanks for your cooperation.
  • Avoid Scams.

    Our classifieds are free and anyone registered here is welcome to post an ad.
    Be aware that there are unscrupulous folks out there. Avoid any interaction that seems odd to you or �feels� wrong. Inquiries from unknown buyers, buyers �agents� and other non-traditional approaches should be treated with extreme caution.

    Beware of unsolicited contacts offering to put you in touch with someone else who is buying or selling via e-mail or text.

    Do not post your e-mail address or phone number in a classifieds ad.

    Hints that you may be dealing with a Scammer:
    • Seller or Buyer approaches you via a direct email or PM and then steers you to an off-site communication method (text or email).
    • No posts or very few forum posts.
    • Recent forum membership
    • Insists on conducting negotiations via email or text rather than PM
    • Requires payment via Bank Transfer, BitCoin/CryptoCurrency, WesternUnion or other unsecured method.
    • Buyer or Seller suggests Paypal "Friends and Family" payment. Paypal is a good way to arrange payment but an invoice for goods and services should be used rather than "Friends and Family". "Friends and Family" avoids fees BUT there is no recourse if the transaction runs aground. Friends and Family is for gifts only. There is no protection for Friends and Family transactions, so never ever use it to buy something.
    • Declines to allow viewing the item before proceeding with the transaction.

For Sale: I like these, Kadey Krogen 42 estate sale

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Here is are the specs I got from broker/advertiser/?:

1984 Kady Krogen 42 Trawler, Mahalo
With a highly sought after Centerline Queen layout this Classic 42 Kady Krogen is ready for a new owner. The new interior, exstensive electronics, cruising accessories, live aboard amentities make her a go anywhere Trawler.
Hull # 65 Specifications:
Original build blueprints from factory
Original owner notes from 1984
Engine – 135 Ford Lehman operation to spec. 11,000 hours excellent running condition – Oil new 2013, ready to go anywhere.
Racor filters new 2013
Complete set of ALL cruising Spar Parts from lights to filters
TSS dripless Shaft bilge is DRY
Generator – Northern Lights Lugger M753K Approx 1,000 Hours Excellent Running condition
Fireboy Fire Suppression System
Bilge Water Pump-off raw water sea cock
Batteries – New 2013 – 3 8D
Niad Stabilization 2000
Central Air 2 Cruise Air
Electronics – Radar, Garmin GPS, Robertson Auto Pilot, 2500W Inverter, Forward Sonar, 2 Ship to Shore SSB, 2 VHF, 2 Depth Sounders, 2 Compasses, Air Horn, Remote Spot, Solar Panels, Davis weather station, Built-in Laptop.
Navigation – All paper and CD Charts for East Coast North to South
Ground tackle – Elec. Windlass, 2 anchors with 250 of chain each
Stainless Bimini Top
All Sunbrella Covers
Queen Bed Center line Master, 2nd Stateroom 2 births with desk area Teak Parquet floors
Head/Shower, Vacuflush Head, New Head Hose
Sub Zero 200 Ref/Freezer
New Corian counter tops and Fawcett
Gas Stove and Oven
Washer/Dryer
Custom Saloon Hi-Low Table
Custom Saloon Stereo
Trash Compactor
New Interior Saloon Cushions/Bedding
Stow-a-Vac Central Vacuum
Microwave, Coffee Maker
Flat Screen TV w/ DVD
Flybridge – ISSI Survival Raft, Electronic Dingy Davit, Twin Helm Seat, Stereo Speakers, New Compass, New Depth Guage, Apelco VHF, Tackle Box/Table
And numerous other features to complement a world class Trawler with storage and cruising supplies. She is ready to go, has approx. 200 gallons of fuel.

Mark Kaufman 443-350-5737, markkaufman7@comcast.net


So I am wondering what you all think based on the above, and still confused by "oil canning" reference vs. moisture in hull.

Thanks, Mike



 
With an asking price of $74,900, if you are interested, I would pursue it. Though to make the deal work, the buyer, has to be able to do some of the work. We turned a boat over to a boat yard for insurance repairs. The money poured out ($66K plus) and it hadn't gone very far.
 
Well, I can't think of a lot of better spec'd cruising platforms to start out with, although the reason I have a Manatee instead of a 42" is because my cruising plan is inland, ICW, Loop, etc. with only a jaunt over to the Islands now and then. A stabilized 42', .....if my plans to explore were more outside, I'd be on it, but at least for me, I'd also be on the fixes too, and I'd be listening to the experts at Osprey or Washburn's to tell me how bad (or good) they would be. I''ve got a cored hull too, and being a worry wart, I pull it every year to inspect.
 
Lots of cheap boats out there.

Lots of good boats out there.

The buyer is in the drivers seat.

An old girlfriend once said to me when I was hot to buy a car .....
"Well Eric .. maybe a better one will come along".
 
With stabilizers and a wet hull it would be nice to have repairs done to insure backing block integrity and peace of mind. Not to mention a 30 year old high hour engine. This would be a costly and time consuming purchase, would somebody please buy it as a TF project boat and give us updates.
 
I have an idea; everyone contribute to the Beach Bum fund to purchase and repair this boat.

I will provide a blow by blow commentary with plenty of pictures. Everyone can live vicariously through me.
 
I have an idea; everyone contribute to the Beach Bum fund to purchase and repair this boat.

I will provide a blow by blow commentary with plenty of pictures. Everyone can live vicariously through me.


:lol:

HOLLYWOOD
 
10,000 hours on a Lehman 120 is not that many...

If it hasn't been overheated... Factory calls for a rebuild at 20,000 hours.

Overheat it once, or fail to change the injector pump oil and it will last far less of course.
 
With stabilizers and a wet hull it would be nice to have repairs done to insure backing block integrity and peace of mind. Not to mention a 30 year old high hour engine. This would be a costly and time consuming purchase, would somebody please buy it as a TF project boat and give us updates.

If I were after a KK42 I'd buy this one in a minute. It would be a fun project, and if executed properly could result in a very well found cruiser.

My take is different though. The boat would go to a good shipyard I trust and come out looking and being like new 6 months later.

Want a new KK42???

Buy this boat, budget a not to exceed price of $150k for the refit, and have a GREAT boat in the end.

What would a new KK42 cost now days, somewhere around $500K or more?
 
Yeah, I thought the same thing, Kevin. Maybe if I were finished with my own boat, I could talk my Admiral into it. It could work, but you'd really have to "commit" to the 150K budget as if it was going to be that much, and not wimp-out in the end.
 
What would a new KK42 cost now days, somewhere around $500K or more?

Actually, closer to a million for a new KK44 which they are now called and of course, 2 feet longer. This is what the dealer told me at the last Seattle boat show. Ouch!!

Ron
 
Yeah, I thought the same thing, Kevin. Maybe if I were finished with my own boat, I could talk my Admiral into it. It could work, but you'd really have to "commit" to the 150K budget as if it was going to be that much, and not wimp-out in the end.

Thats the problem with most project boats.

Good people buy them with good intentions.

They think they can DIY the boat, when even if they have the skills, they do not have the time.

Or they do not have the cash budget to do the refit. They piece the refit together a little at a time and it costs much more than it could.

The way to take this boat on, is to figure out worst case the things you know are an issue. Then plan on gutting the engine room and starting over. New tanks, new everything.

Its a whole lot cheaper to do the project that way than piecemealing together a project, and having to pay to rip out things you just paid to put in, so you can access things like tanks, etc...

I think I'm pretty close at $150K.

Someone buying a boat like this thinking they'll be good to go with a 20K bottom job is more than likely going to get a good education in boat maintenance reality 101
 
Last edited:
Ok, so we've seen several responses indicating once the repairs have been completed you no longer have a blue water boat to once the repairs are completed you have a good as new KK 42. I would say If you end up with a good as new boat with 150 - 180k total in it you have a good, make that a very-good deal. I guess where I'm going with this is what do you have, a true to spec KK 42 boat or a dockside condo?
 
IMO it depends...

Current 1980's vintage boats are listed roughly $150-180K in used condition. If this boat can be made whole and re powered, tanked etc for roughly $150K you'll have an as-new KK42. Newer vintage 44's are in the $600K+ range.

This isn't a house you're gonna flip. If you're in the market for a KK42 long term and don't like what you see on the current market and have the pocketbook it can be a great opportunity to have one your way.

Sometimes we try to rationalize something that is irrational to start with. Boats are not rational. My previous owner lost his butt refitting it and subsequently selling it to me less than a year later. That was not his plan though, he refit for a long term hold. Life dealt him a harsh hand so he sold for what the market would bear. That could happen on this KK42 or any other boat for that matter.

Only you can decide if it fits your plans and budget. That applies to any boat.
 
The only question I have is will you have a blue water boat hull or one only fit for a dockside condo once you complete the retrofits?
 
Bluewater, better then original with a modern synthetic core vs balsa and epoxy/vinylester resins vs polyester.
 
The only question I have is will you have a blue water boat hull or one only fit for a dockside condo once you complete the retrofits?

Thats easy. You'd have a new KK42, without argument a fine passagemaker.

In my opinion you'll as others have indicated probably have a tad more into the boat after a total refit than if you bought a very good condition KK42 of that same vintage.

The difference is you'll have the boat YOU want, not what all the previous owners wanted.

You will also have very few surprises after the refit. Don't worry, the surprises will be there, you'll just get to deal with them during the refit.

If you go for this, my advice having been through it, is to not cheap out. Find a full service boat yard, with a large staff, and a project manager you trust. When they call, listen to their advice, and for the most part follow their recommendations.

At any good full service boat yard, the entire crew will take part in the refit process. Your boat will probably be one of just a few full service refits they do that year. The crew will take pride in seeing their labor transform your boat.

Second advice is plan on repowering. Plan on a new generator. People might argue this point but the best part of a total refit is zero time equipment. New hoses, new everything. Research your big decision choices and buy the best.

In the end, you will have for all intent a new boat at a fraction of the price.
 
Can someone describe the actual re-coring process? I`m thinking it involves removing all fiberglass on one side of the core, to get at, remove, and replace the core. Followed by fresh fiberglass. If you only do to the waterline, does the soggy core above re-wet below, or is the new core impermeable? Does the re-glassing require controlled conditions of warmth & humidity?
If the numbers stack up I suppose it is feasible economically, but it seems a huge job with an ever present risk of nasty $ surprises. And once you are on the tiger, there is no getting off.
 
Can someone describe the actual re-coring process? I`m thinking it involves removing all fiberglass on one side of the core, to get at, remove, and replace the core. Followed by fresh fiberglass. If you only do to the waterline, does the soggy core above re-wet below, or is the new core impermeable? Does the re-glassing require controlled conditions of warmth & humidity?
If the numbers stack up I suppose it is feasible economically, but it seems a huge job with an ever present risk of nasty $ surprises. And once you are on the tiger, there is no getting off.

Depending on the severity of the project, It later could involve can's of solvents, tightly cinched (plastic tie wraps) electrical wiring behind the panel wrapped with tissue paper, all 110 appliances turned up to high, and a quick trip to a place with many witnesses of your whereabouts at the time of the accident, which should take place in oh, 30 minutes. Oops, wrong forum, I thought I was on the _ _ _ _ _ _ Lightening forum.:D
 
Last edited:
Bluewater, better then original with a modern synthetic core vs balsa and epoxy/vinylester resins vs polyester.

As far as I know Kadey Krogens never had balsa cored hulls. They are foam cored but they eventually abandoned using cores below the waterline. Balsa cores were used on the decks and other parts of the superstructure.
 
Steel Hull maintanence problems....ha...ha

Can someone describe the actual re-coring process? I`m thinking it involves removing all fiberglass on one side of the core, to get at, remove, and replace the core. Followed by fresh fiberglass. If you only do to the waterline, does the soggy core above re-wet below, or is the new core impermeable? Does the re-glassing require controlled conditions of warmth & humidity?
If the numbers stack up I suppose it is feasible economically, but it seems a huge job with an ever present risk of nasty $ surprises. And once you are on the tiger, there is no getting off.

Reading thru this subject thread just had to make me laugh at all of those naysayers that talk about the maintenance issues with modern steel hull construction I've suggested for the Pilgrim redesign.
Trawler Forum - View Single Post - Redesigning the Pilgrim 40 Trawler / Canal Boat

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s3/redesigning-pilgrim-40-trawler-canal-boat-11212-12.html

...so much for those maintenance-free fiberglass hulls....:rolleyes:
 
Last edited:
If the numbers stack up I suppose it is feasible economically, but it seems a huge job with an ever present risk of nasty $ surprises. And once you are on the tiger, there is no getting off.

:thumb::thumb:

In addition to Bruce's sage advice, for a total rebuild I suggest:
  • Once the budget is made, double the time estimate,
  • add 50% to your best budget forecast,
  • then be faced with owning a resurrected vessel that will not come close to getting top dollar on the resale market.
 
:thumb::thumb:


In addition to Bruce's sage advice, for a total rebuild I suggest:
  • Once the budget is made, double the time estimate,
  • add 50% to your best budget forecast,
  • then be faced with owning a resurrected vessel that will not come close to getting top dollar on the resale market.


Actually unless you are refitting a sunk or fire damaged vessle, you will be able to sell your refitted vessle for top dollar when compared to other vessles of the same model in its age class.

You will not be able to sell it for what you have in it, but thats typical of boats

You will not be able to sell it for as much as a newer vessle of its caliber.

Having been through it, I can say that a total refit provides a very much new vessle experience for the owner at a fraction of the price.
 
...so much for those maintenance free fiberglass hulls....:rolleyes:

Who said maintenance free?

The early KK cored/composite hulls were, ahem, an experiment that KK abandoned. So did SeaRay. Most Westports have composite/cored hulls too, but with hopefully better results as time rolls on.

Steel you say Brian, well I can tell you first hand of a Feadship steel hull that failed survey due to a very small area of internal rust and corrosion around the shaft tube. The owner took a very large discount to sell this one - much more than the cost of repairs.

Over time, yacht quality builds that suffer hull corrosion or FRP issues get nicked. That is why a well maintained, or better yet meticulously maintained vessel, from a well respected builder/designer is highly sought after.
 
Who said maintenance free?

The early KK cored/composite hulls were, ahem, an experiment that KK abandoned. So did SeaRay. Most Westports have composite/cored hulls too, but with hopefully better results as time rolls on.

Steel you say Brian, well I can tell you first hand of a Feadship steel hull that failed survey due to a very small area of internal rust and corrosion around the shaft tube. The owner took a very large discount to sell this one - much more than the cost of repairs.

Over time, yacht quality builds that suffer hull corrosion or FRP issues get nicked. That is why a well maintained, or better yet meticulously maintained vessel, from a well respected builder/designer is highly sought after.

Some manufacturers just do a better job of designing and building cored hulls. :blush:

In terms of production numbers the Bayliner 45 and 47 pilothouse models I believe come close to or are at the top of large motor yachts, and every one of them had a cored hull using a synthetic foam. Every one, and I have never heard of one of these boats needing a bottom re glass. Probably a thousand boats. Yes, good design, and good construction make all the difference. :)
 
Actually unless you are refitting a sunk or fire damaged vessle, you will be able to sell your refitted vessle for top dollar when compared to other vessles of the same model in its age class.
.

Kevin, I agree with you provided the bones of the vessel are sound to begin with.

Here we are "theoretically" speaking of a soggy hulled vessel from the builder's experimental era that requires resurrection. Or as suggested earlier in the thread - patch it, use it and be happy. Having recently been on a soggy hulled mid eighties KK 42 and also the last KK42 built (solid FRP hull) the differences are night and day. KK came a long way in those 15 or so years.
 
Reading thru this subject thread just had to make me laugh at all of those naysayers that talk about the maintenance issues with modern steel hull construction I've suggested for the Pilgrim redesign.
Trawler Forum - View Single Post - Redesigning the Pilgrim 40 Trawler / Canal Boat

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s3/redesigning-pilgrim-40-trawler-canal-boat-11212-12.html

...so much for those maintenance-free fiberglass hulls....:rolleyes:

and all those that laugh at "best practice", modern FRG construction...:rolleyes:
 
Kevin, I agree with you provided the bones of the vessel are sound to begin with.

Here we are "theoretically" speaking of a soggy hulled vessel from the builder's experimental era that requires resurrection. Or as suggested earlier in the thread - patch it, use it and be happy. Having recently been on a soggy hulled mid eighties KK 42 and also the last KK42 built (solid FRP hull) the differences are night and day. KK came a long way in those 15 or so years.

I do agree with you completely, just having a bit of fun. Too much morning coffee.

If I were to get involved with a boat like the pone referenced in this thread I'd tackle the hull issues first, and wouldn't buy the boat until I had an expert evaluate it.
 
In terms of production numbers the Bayliner 45 and 47 pilothouse models I believe come close to or are at the top of large motor yachts, and every one of them had a cored hull using a synthetic foam.

What construction does Meridian do today with hull bottoms, solid or core?

Respect him or not, Pascoe says, "Buying a cored bottom boat in my opinion is little more than a roll of the dice."
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom