Bluewater 40 Boat Deck & Roof Overhang Extension

[syjos]

Here are pictures from the boat deck roof repair and extension completed in 2013.

The back corners of the boat deck were soft from the "drain" that let water off the roof through the stainless steel roof support. When the pipe got clogged, water would stand in the pipe and leak into the plywood roof.

The solid mahogany trim around the roof was cracked and rotted in spots.

The hatch opening down to the cockpit and ladder were removed and closed off right after buying the boat to reinforce that area for a pipe davit and to make room for a dinghy. It is a lot easier to get on the boat deck via pilothouse and side steps.

While repairing the boat deck, decided to lengthen the boat deck roof to be even with the transom and extend the roof sides out 6 inches. The extra length of the roof allows a longer dinghy to be carried and provides more shade in the cockpit. The extended side overhang increases the shade for the side windows.

Laminated a strengthened a beam to carry the extra load of the larger dinghy. The beam is located where the original roof ends.

 

[syjos]

These were taken before the project started. They shows the original roof configuration before widening and lengthening.

The last picture shows the added length.

I'll keep adding to this thread as time permits.

 

[syjos]

The original roof was 3/4" mahogany plywood. The rotted section plus additional plywood was cut off. 3/8" was routed from the cut area for a lap joint. Two layers of 3/8" mahogany plywood was glued with staggered joints to create the half lap with the routed section.

WEST epoxy was used for all joints.

Mahogany roof beams were lengthened with scarf joints.

In these pictures, the side roof overhang was widened 6 inches by laminating additional mahogany to the existing overhang. See drawing.

New side trim, made of 1/2" plywood was scarfed to create a 12' long continuous piece. The trim was attached to the previously widened roof overhang.

The 3/4" roof drip edges are being glued to the top side of the roof and held in place by lots of clamps. The drip edge and the 3/4"plywood will allow a 1 1/2" landing for the rear trim.

 

[OldDan1943]

Looks great!!!
I had considered extending the upper deck on my AT34 with fiberglass, covering the cockpit. I could install at least one more solar panel. I'll let the next owner do that. For now, I shall continue with a canvas top over the cockpit.

 

[syjos]

Looks great!!!
I had considered extending the upper deck on my AT34 with fiberglass, covering the cockpit. I could install at least one more solar panel. I'll let the next owner do that. For now, I shall continue with a canvas top over the cockpit.

Extending a fiberglass roof would be a lot more difficult than my project. A mold would be required to mimic the existing roof.

Sandpiper was constructed like a wood boat above the deck. Extending the plywood roof was time consuming but simple wood construction.

 

[Comodave]

Looks very nice and will be very practical in use. If you have a lot of tall pilings in your area you may experience the hardtop hitting the pilings when the boat rocks since the hardtop will be wider. The PO of my boat had that issue so he had the rub rail widened about 3 or 4” on each side. They scarfed in a teak extension to the existing teak toe rail. It was done very nicely and it makes a nice step when boarding or disembarking.

 

[syjos]

Looks very nice and will be very practical in use. If you have a lot of tall pilings in your area you may experience the hardtop hitting the pilings when the boat rocks since the hardtop will be wider. The PO of my boat had that issue so he had the rub rail widened about 3 or 4” on each side. They scarfed in a teak extension to the existing teak toe rail. It was done very nicely and it makes a nice step when boarding or disembarking.

Thanks Dave.

Here in the PNW, we rarely tie up close to pilings. The pilings are inset on the dock so there is no interference with the roof overhang.

 

[Comodave]

That is good. I think you will like the new hardtop and the functionality of it. Particularly where it rains everyday...

 

[syjos]

Decreasing width and curved plywood laminated to roof to create a beveled curve.

Could not use a simple angled trim because I needed a vertical surface on the inside face for the enclosure attachment snaps.

The plywood curved pieces were cut on a band saw from a pattern.

Also the thickness of the lamination adds strength to the cantilevered overhang.

The beam that the support tube attaches to was doubled and extended to the end for additional reinforcement.

 

[OldDan1943]

Looks nice and a lot of work.

 

[Comodave]

For attaching the top of the enclosure, I really like using keder strips instead of snaps. It makes a very secure way to attach the sides, if you can fir the strips onto the hardtop.

 

[Sailor of Fortune]

very nice work Syjos. Stacked ply is strong as hell

 

[syjos]

For attaching the top of the enclosure, I really like using keder strips instead of snaps. It makes a very secure way to attach the sides, if you can fir the strips onto the hardtop.

Snaps is a generic term I use for all canvas fastners. I like Lift a Dot, which I used on this application.

 

[syjos]

very nice work Syjos. Stacked ply is strong as hell

Thanks. Yes, stacked ply is an inexpensive beam.

On the beam that was the original roof end, I laminated 1/2" bent solid mahogany alongside the original trim covered with packing tape. After laminations cured, took out the old solid mahogany and replaced it with plywood. That's the white wood alongside the plywood.

 

[Pack Mule]

Nice job . It’s hard to beat laminated plywood or laminated hardwood for strength..

 

[Tator]

Looks great! For us-because we fish a lot out of the cockpit-it always seemed that a further extension would cause problems setting and fighting fish. Already have had several ferrules broken by over enthusiastic fisherfolks!

Tator

 

[syjos]

Looks great! For us-because we fish a lot out of the cockpit-it always seemed that a further extension would cause problems setting and fighting fish. Already have had several ferrules broken by over enthusiastic fisherfolks!

Tator

Thanks Tator.

I fish out of my tender.

Are you back?

 

[syjos]

Comodave.

I did not want to hijack your tank replacement so I'll comment on a thread I started.

I think you are wise in proactively replacing the tank before you no longer can do the work. I'm doing a similar thing. I am in the process of replacing the raw styrofoam in my boathouse with encapsulated tubs. I need to replace 30 tubs. I did 10 last year, 10 this year and will do the final 10 next year.

I'll post pictures of that project this winter.

 

[Comodave]

I agree that doing some of the big jobs proactively is the way to go. I have had a lot of people tell me that I am crazy to replace a non leaking tank, but I really don’t think that in a few years I would have it left in me to do it...

 

[syjos]

I agree that doing some of the big jobs proactively is the way to go. I have had a lot of people tell me that I am crazy to replace a non leaking tank, but I really don’t think that in a few years I would have it left in me to do it...

I think you're being smart replacing a tank before it goes.

A friend was up in the Broughtons BC this summer when one of his tanks suddenly started leaking. He luckily caught the leak early and disabled the bilge pumps before they started pumping. The leak was against the hull side so he was unable to stem the flow. He got to port and had the remaining fuel transferred to the good tank, fuel in the bilge pumped out, steam cleaned and went home on one tank. Upon return, the tank was removed, bilge steam cleaned again and the tank was reinstalled after replacing the bottom. After 3 months, the diesel odor still persists.

Yes, I can feel my enthusiasm for large projects waning as I get older. I used to be able to put in 8 - 10 hour days. Now 6 is the norm.

 

[Comodave]

Yes, I used to work endless hours, no more, especially if it is on my knees.

 

[ben2go]

Decreasing width and curved plywood laminated to roof to create a beveled curve.

Could not use a simple angled trim because I needed a vertical surface on the inside face for the enclosure attachment snaps.

The plywood curved pieces were cut on a band saw from a pattern.

Also the thickness of the lamination adds strength to the cantilevered overhang.

The beam that the support tube attaches to was doubled and extended to the end for additional reinforcement.

Whittling that plywood edge must have took some skill and patience.

 

[OldDan1943]

Whittling that plywood edge must have took some skill and patience.

 

[syjos]

Whittling that plywood edge must have took some skill and patience.

Lots of sanding and fairing compound.

see next post.

 

[syjos]

Shaped and sanded stacked plywood rear trim.

Applied epoxy and fairing compound made from epoxy and fillers.

Sanded some more with a long board.

You can see the drip edges on the top side of roof.

 

[ben2go]

Yeah, that came out pretty good. Should be way overkill strong.

 

[syjos]

Yeah, that came out pretty good. Should be way overkill strong.

Yes, it did end up being stronger than I expected. Original plan was a SS stanchion at the centerline of the transom supporting the roof end.

I had several large men stand on the roof end after completion to measure sag but with over 700#, there was no movement of the roof end so continued without the stanchion.

I carry a 13' fiberglass tender up there that weighs around 600 pounds. Most of the weight is at the transom of the tender where the 4 stroke outboard is. I walk around the dinghy, attaching and unhooking straps and do not feel any sagging of the roof.

 

[healhustler]

Awesome job and a good template for the rest of us considering roof extensions of wood framed innards. Trained to be over-conscious of CG, I can’t help but wonder what the added weight was.

 

[syjos]

Awesome job and a good template for the rest of us considering roof extensions of wood framed innards. Trained to be over-conscious of CG, I can’t help but wonder what the added weight was.

I calculate additional weight of the roof extention to be between 140 and 180 pounds.

It does not make much difference to overall stability. Sandpiper is a ballasted round bilge displacement boat which tends to be too stiff from the ballast. The boats roll motion is improved with added weight aloft.

When I load the 12' Hobie sailboat - 100#, 9' kayak - 40# and prawning and crabbing gear - 60# on the pilothouse roof and the 13 foot tender- 600# on the boat deck, Sandpipers motion becomes smoother with less snap to vertical.

 

[syjos]

Before and after extension pictures.

Fabricated new enclosure using Sunbrella and Strataglass.

The curtains are swung up and snapped to the underside of the roof instead of rolling. Lot faster to put up and less scratches.

The cockpit area seems larger since the enclosure curtains are not slanted inwards.

The enclosure curtains can be left up during minor rain since the roof overhang stops rain from coming in. The shade created from the extension keeps the cockpit cooler.

The before picture is at Joe Cove in the Broughtons BC before the dock sank.