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Old 10-04-2017, 07:14 PM   #21
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Greetings,
I'm getting tired simply looking at the pictures...That's one of the good things about wooden boats. They can be repaired/rebuilt in stages.
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Old 10-04-2017, 08:15 PM   #22
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Greetings,
I'm getting tired simply looking at the pictures...That's one of the good things about wooden boats. They can be repaired/rebuilt in stages.
Absolutely, but you have to be willing and able.

If someone comes by and makes a comment like too much work etc... i tell them I like working on it, keeps me entertained and is good therapy, it keeps me active physically and mentally.

Plus I like seeing the reward of working with my own hands.
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Old 10-05-2017, 12:08 PM   #23
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Here is the multi curved mahogany plywood rail board. This goes under the front edge of the rear plywood, and the teak screws on top the plywood.

Back inside is in pretty good condition.


Bottom view, board is fine here.


Showing the curve hump up,with board propped up.
Top of board is badly damaged on the inside ends.

And somewhat damaged where it laid against the inside cockpit teak covering board. The linseed oil putty had long ago dried out and was hard to scrape clean.
FAIL, oem liked that stuff, but it is a fail.

I used a metal brush and scraped clean all the rotted wood from the entire board. The board still feels pretty strong, so good for a form.


I have been thinking maybe the best way forward, take board to boat and temporarily screw into position. Then laminate, glue with titebond 3 and screw on the bottom thin strips of treated wood, perhaps 1/4, maybe can go 3/8 thick. Build up several layers. Then unscrew the board, take home and on the tablesaw slice off the top layer perhaps a half inch worth. Then glue more laminations on top the board. So a sandwich will be made.

I can also laminate a thin piece to the front to seal the mahogany from rain effects. This board being such an odd shape using it as a pattern is a good idea.

And all my new rails are all taller and wider than OEM. 2.75 inches tall and 1.75 inches in width. Old rails are 2.25 inches tall and 1.25 inch thick. So I have room to add height to this board which can only help.


Why the OEM builder did such small sizes, who knows, the teak covering boards are plenty wide enough to accommodate taller plywood support rails. Just another OEM blunder.
I have even thought of wrapping the repaired board in fiberglass wallboard tape, then smearing PL glue all over it. Would add more strength and better sealing. I repaired a molded plywood chair bottom that way. Somewhere I have a roll of tape.
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Old 10-05-2017, 03:38 PM   #24
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I bought a real nice piece of ground contact 2x10x10.
Very blessed to find it first one I looked at.
No knots, except 2 small ones on other side, which would be cut out if I use this as a pattern.So I will try and cut out a new shaped piece from this and see what happens.


The left side has tight grain, so that would be the humped up part.
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Old 10-05-2017, 03:44 PM   #25
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I am able to keep busy enough maintaining my fiberglass boat. I am sure I would not be able to keep up with a wooden boat. Kudos to you for doing all this work.
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Old 10-05-2017, 04:12 PM   #26
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A possible source of adequate Mahogany is the plantation-grown stuff sized and sold for high-end residential decking. A smidge over 1" thick and 5 1/2" wide. I cut mine up into 1 1/8" or so, strips and laminated 'em to the curve required for my swim platform (see pics included in my posts from last spring).

Another idea which may suit you is to steam bend your replacement Mahogany with a home-cobbled-together steam box. Here a a few pics of my steaming Mahogany stringers for the Flying Dutchman. They had to be curved and twisted. I built a simple jig to drop the hot wood into that was arranged to bend the wood farther than necessary to accommodate 'spring back'. These stringers were 1 1/4" deep and 1" wide so your steaming time will be greater. The steam box is that hollow plywood square tube; the heat source was a propane barbeque.
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Old 10-06-2017, 09:59 AM   #27
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Came up with a better idea and still get to use the OEM piece. I will make a replacement piece from that plank of wood. Still split down the middle for the concave inward bend.
Then after I have it installed, I will cut off the rotten ends off the OEM mahogany piece and put it on the backside. Should then provide plenty of extra strength, and aid in keeping the original curves. It will be sealed up and painted so will no longer be getting wet as in front of it will be this thick piece of treated wood.

The ends will but up close to the samson tie up posts. The piece otherwise is sort of useless wood just to have laying around doing nothing.

Supposedly 4 days of rain coming next week. so can't get as much done as i like.
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Old 10-08-2017, 02:04 PM   #28
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Board marked out. Wife stood in middle with original curved board on top this big board with curve up.
Then I outlined the edge. Since it was curved up, I lined up by eye pulling the marker perpendicular to the run of the board along the edge.

I then drew another mark next to it to flesh it out to 3 inches in width. Will be carved down to 2.75 when done.



Results, and I may use the large piece at right to backup to this versus the OEM mahogany piece since I don't like woods that will rot. Will give this some thought.



Then split in half on tablesaw to allow it flex into shape, will be glued and screwed into position using the original plywood still in place on the boat.

Before that, I will clamp or screw to the original board and belt sand the top edge to a perfect fit to match. Then also the bottom edge.

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Old 10-10-2017, 10:06 AM   #29
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This morn I ground both boards to curve properly to the shape matching the ply edge of the old board. They are not as stiff as the original board. Since the original board is still holding a good curve, I will use it glued in behind these new boards. I will have to repair some sections of the old board.

So the new construction should be at least 50% stronger than new. I am also planning on attaching a 3/4 by 3/4 piece to the top of the outermost new board. This will cradle the new plywood edge.

The builder being dumb, ran screws thru the teak covering board exactly between the mahogany support rail and the plywood. So gluing on a a piece will be better for these screws too.


Clamped along the length plus the new board are 1/2 inch taller than the old one.
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Old 10-11-2017, 12:25 PM   #30
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Today I decided to increase the height of the curved mahogany board to match the other ply support rails. I glued on a piece of ripped treated wood. I predrilled screws to use to line up the parts, then took it apart, glued with Titebond 3, screwed it together.

The ends will be cut off this board to fit between the samson tie up posts.
It will fit behind the new boards that take the original position of this board.

This will make it pretty strong I think. Adds little weight for more strength, not that it needed this. Screwed on arched plywood that sits on top of this adds a lot to the structure.

Your looking at the top of the board, so treated plywood will touch the treated wood.

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Old 10-19-2017, 06:05 PM   #31
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Rain is over a week of rain.

I got the curved pieces in and they fit well.
I backed it up with the original board.



Other side clamped


Screwed in and bolted.
I also cut a rabbit into the piece I put in on 2001 when I rebuilt the transom wood frames. Now the plywood will sit in that supported the whole length. It was easy to do this as that rear board against the top exterior plank was made of 3 pieces screwed together. I just need to glue in a long shim for the ply to rest on at the correct height.







Another view


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Old 11-01-2017, 08:41 AM   #32
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Got the plywood glued and screwed down. Is a perfect fit. Just shows one piece, the other is also in.
And I overcoated with FG strips and glue.
Entire structure is strong. does not have any give.



Here is more detail of the post attachment. I added a steel bracket versus 2 screws that went through the cockpit teak and framing into the side of the post. This allows easier post pulling, no longer have to unscrew a large piece of teak board. So a 2" by 3/8 SS bolt keeps the post from pulling up.
metal bracket bolts to frame with two 5/16 ss bolts. The galvanized bracket is from an old garage door when they made the steel thick unlike today. And I primed and painted it also.

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Old 11-03-2017, 06:45 PM   #33
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I have the top almost finished.
Needs paint, and I need to make new posts.
The new wood feels really strong. I like it.
I laid some fiberglass wallboard tape in the PL on top the rear plywood. Makes a nice waterproof layer.
And it sealed it well including the plywood seam edge.




Transom needs refinishing, of course, never lasts.
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Old 11-24-2017, 07:20 AM   #34
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I have the 2 posts cut, shaped drilled, and ready for a finish.
One is white oak, the other may be ash.
They came from Lowes and were wood used for skids on some wood product they sell, so they were free.


Cut on the saw and sanded are in great shape. Very similar color wood.

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Old 11-24-2017, 11:28 AM   #35
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Often remarkably nice pieces of wood in pallets and skids. Usually small, though.
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Old 11-24-2017, 02:59 PM   #36
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Often remarkably nice pieces of wood in pallets and skids. Usually small, though.
Somehow it lost the picture, here they are.
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Old 11-30-2017, 04:26 PM   #37
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I have the posts in. The mahogany ply is not secured with screws yet, but it is in place.
And couple teak boards are on.
Posts and ply are coated with Petit SeaGold varnish.

I also varnished with polyurethane the backside of the teak boards to seal them.




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