Volvo Service Cost

[BandB]

Wow, I see some outrageous charges for an oil change here. I do mine myself. .

No, you see a misclassification, calling it a charge for an oil change. It's far more being done.

 

[TowLou]

If i was close to ya id ask between half to a third of that if you had all the oil and filters. Id even have my own tools. Oil disposal I think I could figure that out safely.

 

[boater3]

I am looking for someone to teach me and will take care of future changes.. Of course will pay for someone's time! Boat is currently in Kemah Texas area

 

[AusCan]

There's not much to an oil change. Just like changing the oil on you car, other than pumping the oil out. A simple oil change should take under an hour per engine.

Other service items depend on the run hours. Read your engine manual. Most manuals spell it out quite clearly.

 

[boater3]

Is there any place to buy authentic volvo parts online? I.e. filters, etc.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Wow. I am glad I stuck to my guns when I bought a boat. If it had Volvo, I passed it by. High costs for parts, I.E. the impeller you are replacing cost about $250. My cost for Cats $43.


Volvo loves there parts way too much. Good luck mystery. You will get there.

 

[TDunn]

You are either amazingly fast or your watch is broken. I would love to watch you do this in under an hour. Perhaps you could post a video.

I just checked my log book for my last oil change. It did take over an hour. In fact I was aboard the boat for 2 hours 25 minutes. Of course, that time included the hour and a half run I did on the boat before changing the oil.

The procedure is simple. I start by opening the engine hatch. Next I pull the dip stick and remove the oil fill cap. After that I connect the oil pump to the pump out fitting (my engine came with a pump out tube plumbed into the bottom of the pan). Connecting the pump simply consists of sliding the hose onto the tube. Then I connect the pump to a battery and flip the switch. While the oil is pumping out I arrange oil sorbent pads under the oil and fuel filters. When the oil is out I shut the pump off and disconnect it. The next step is to spin the oil filter off and install the new one. After that I put the new oil in the engine. Changing the fuel filter is next. I start by closing the fuel shut off in the fuel line. The filter is a spin off, so It comes off easily. I pour the fuel in the filter through a filter funnel into the new filter and spin it on. The next step is to open the fuel valve and bleed the fuel system. My fuel filter housing has a bleed screw you open then pump the priming pump to fill the filter and remove air. Prefilling the fuel filter makes this step very fast. The final step is to replace the dip stick and oil fill cap then start the engine and run it for five minutes. After the engine run I wait a couple of minutes, check the oil and add additional oil as needed.

Note, I have all the tools needed on the boat. I also worked in a garage in high school and college where I did hundreds of oil changes. Oil changes are simple.

 

[RCook]

From VP's own store, a seawater pump impeller for D4-300 is $63.14.

On Marine Parts Express it's $60.61

I've bought VP parts for my 44 from them - worked out fine.

 

[koliver]

I just checked my log book for my last oil change. It did take over an hour. In fact I was aboard the boat for 2 hours 25 minutes. Of course, that time included the hour and a half run I did on the boat before changing the oil.

Note, I have all the tools needed on the boat. Oil changes are simple.

My oil changes take longer since I lost the services of the fuel barge's vacuum pump. They would feed me a hose with adapters on it, I would attach it to the hose from the sump on the first engine. 1 minute later I would attach it to the hose from the second sump. 1 minute later I would attach it to the hose from the genset. It took longer to pour in the new oil. 5 minutes to do 3 filters. Out of there in under 1/2 hour.

Since the Esso barge left and wasn't replaced, Coal Harbour has been served by only the Chevron, and due to high commercial boat demand they no longer suck out pleasure boat sumps. I now have my own vacuum pump but that adds at least 5 minutes to each oil change.

I have twin Volvos.
Someone said $250 for a Volvo impeller? No way. I don't recall what mine cost, but I would definitely recall an outrageous price.

RCook said "From VP's own store, a seawater pump impeller for D4-300 is $63.14.

On Marine Parts Express it's $60.61"

I've bought VP parts for my 44 from them - worked out fine."

+1

I shop Inlet Marine (VP Dealer in Port Moody BC). I doubt I have ever paid more than RCook, on my TAMD41s.

 

[boater3]

If I dont have this oil hose pre-installed, what is the best way to extract the oil?

 

[MichaelB1969]

If I dont have this oil hose pre-installed, what is the best way to extract the oil?

There is a little tube that is capped on the D4 where you extract the oil from.

 

[SOJOURN4]

Port Engine - adjacent to oil dip stick

Stbd Engine - Located on outboard side of engine

If I recall, a 3/8" hose just slipped over the tube.

 

[IRENE]

I have a fitting on my drain hose that connects to a drill pump. I pump into a 3-gallon oil disposal jug. This has worked well except for the longevity of the drill pumps.

 

[boater3]

Huge project

Any idea how they come out if I want more headroom?

 

[boater3]

MYSTERY:
Changed my ST44's oil for the 1st time this fall. Each engine took +/- 1 hour.
Purchased a REVERSO portable 12 v pump that you use to suck the oil out of the secondary oil pan tube.(Black tube with a removable cap that connects to the oil pan). Also changed the crankcase breather - (remove and replace) and air filters.
Previously I changed impellers - +/- 1 hour for both.
Fuel filter as about the same time - but a little more technical since you have to bleed the air out of the system. VP's manual is pretty good at the oil and filter changes.

I try to limit my PM efforts to 3 different activities (1) fuel filters, primary and secondary (2) Oil/Air/Etc filters and (3) Impellers.

It is easy to loose your enthusiasm trying to work more than a few hours in the ST44's engine room.

Also - anodes are +/- 30 mins.

Not bad at all and gave me knowledge on PM in the event we are away from our dock.
Next year I will give the AFT in the trans a try.

VP supplies are what they are - stay with VP's stuff. Might cost you a few bucks more but no issues so far.

Genset was even easier - oil change and fuel filters +/- 1 hour.

Key was the REVERSO pump. If I recall about $400 dollars.

Good luck

I am going to buy that Reverso pump, I think its model # 28-219 ? Any other accessories, adapters, tubing, etc, that I need to get with it?

How do I get oil to drain from that tube? Do I need to unscrew or loosen anything? Or does the pull from the pump take care of it?

To fill the engines with the new oil, do I use the Reverso to pump it in at the top? If not, how do I do it given the limited headroom and space above the engine?

Thank you

 

[boater3]

There are filters on the gear cases.

Thank you for that video!

I read the manual, can I use the reverso pump and suck out the fluid and then connect it to the suction pipe at the bottom of the housing which should be 5/8" outer diameter? Any idea how I prevent contamination from using the same Reverso pump on the main engine oil change?

Thank you

 

[MichaelB1969]

Any idea how they come out if I want more headroom?

No. At one point I wondered about it so I looked under the floorboards and all the soundproofing is secured to the underside. I think you'd have to remove all the soundproofing, which seems to be secured with a pretty strong adhesive, for starters. I wasn't willing to do that in order to investigate any further.

 

[MichaelB1969]

Thank you for that video!



I read the manual, can I use the reverso pump and suck out the fluid and then connect it to the suction pipe at the bottom of the housing which should be 5/8" outer diameter? Any idea how I prevent contamination from using the same Reverso pump on the main engine oil change?



Thank you

I never saw him remove the hydraulic fluid for the reverse gear, so not sure. However, my strong assumption is that there is another place to drain it.

 

[boater3]

MYSTERY:
RACOR filter is easy - if you have a bottom drain - drain a cup or so out of the bottom until clear diesel can bee seen. I installed a petcock to help this out. Remove top cover and slowly pull out filter. The RACOR has plastic handles. I cover the entire area in rags since you will spill a bit of diesel. I also have a bucket near to place the old filter in.
Insert the new filter and fill to the top with clean diesel, replace cap and you are done. A small plastic canister with a lid helps to do this. (Push the filter down so you don't overfill since when you screw the cap back, the filter is pushed down a bit in the body of the canister. If you don't do this, fuel will spill out when the cap is installed).
I carry a gallon or so of clean diesel to do this if I have a clogged filter on a trip.

VP filters:
Buy a spare water in filter sensor!!!!! (+/- $70)
Remove the WIF connector. (I leave the WIF fuel sensor on the old filter) Remove the old VP filter. Install the new WIF sensor on the new filter, install the filter and reconnect the WIF connector. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE WIF SENSOR to the new filter. I broke my spare by slightly over tightening!!! Don't forget to remove WIF sensor from old filter and save. This will give you a spare and can be used next filter change.
Get a clear plastic tube about 3' long and a small bucket. Install the tube on the drain plug. Carefully loosen the drain plug - DO NOT REMOVE - Only loosen enough until fuel drains through the plastic tube. Pump the top plunger until you get clear fuel and no bubbles - then do a few more times. Tighten everything up and then pump the plunger 5 or more times - will take a little bit of pressure. Take a look at VP's manual for the number of times to pump after all is back together.
Once all is back together, put the gear shift into "throttle only" and crank the engine over. If it does not start after a few seconds you will most likely need to bleed again. (the RACOR does not need bleeding)

I did the starboard engine 1st time so I did not have to snake to the port engine to figure out how to do!!!

Most importantly - close the fuel valves before you change either filter.

Good luck

Any idea on part # for the "water in fuel sensor" ? You recommend that I change it with each filter change?

Regarding the plunger, is this something that I need to buy and attach? Is this the same as the "hand pump" the manual mentions? What tool do I need to open the air vent valve?

Thank you!

 

[boater3]

All, thank you VERY MUCH for the help. I am about to embark on this journey to service the engines, transmissions, and genset…after doing some research and reading manuals… have some additional questions…sorry for asking so much… really appreciate the help!!!!!!!

First, do these parts look right for the Volvo D4-300?

40005013 Volvo Penta Oil 15W40 5 gallon & 40005012 Gallon. How much oil? Manual says 3.3 gallons each but to reduce by .4 gallons due to some oil staying in pan. Is 2.9 gallons per engine people’s experience so I should be good with a 5 gallon and a single 1 gallon jug?

22030484 oil filter?

22030852 by-pass filter?

3588475 impeller kit? What is part #3583611 “o-ring” for? Do I need? Do these engines have thermostats that need to be replaced too?

21718912 fuel filter?

Any idea what part # 3581078 is for? Saw it listed on a previous work order.

Part # for air filter? Is it just the “insert” part #21702999?

Part # for the gearcase/transmission oil? What about part # for filter? Is folks experience each transmission takes 1.3 gallons? It takes ATF, correct? Not regular engine oil as on some transmissions? Looks like model #HS80AE-B

Part # for the compressor oil? 85108974 ? it only takes .2 pints each? Is there a filter?

Part # for coolant (prefer already mixed, not concentrate)?

Part # for a “spare water in filter sensor”?

Part #s for the Racor fuel filters that come before the engines?

Part #s for spare belts?

Part # for impeller removal tool?

Second, questions for the engines…

1. Can the impellers be changed on both engines without undoing the drive belt and removing the pump from the engine? What is meant by “flange” (manual says if can rotate by hand, it must be replaced)
2. Will the compressor oil spill out as soon as I open to check level? Any tips on how to check/replace?
3. Engines have 130 hours, were commissioned in November 2015, about to put ~100 hours on them. Should I change the coolant now or after my trip? Anyone have tips on how to replace? How much coolant do I need?
4. What do you guys use to measure oil, transmission fluids, etc?
5. Given the limited headroom and space above the engine where the oil fill cap is, do I just use the Reverso pump to pump in the new oil?

Last, questions for the Onan genset Model MDKBM:

6. Any recommendations for an “impeller removal tool” as referenced in the manual?
7. Part # for impeller?
8. Part # for oil filter?
9. Part # for fuel filter?
10. Part # for coolant?
11. How much oil do I need? I think specs reference 4.5 quarts but how much in your experience does it actually take?
12. Do I need to change the coolant on this too? If so, how much do I need?

Thank you TF!!!!

 

[Besslb]

Wow. I am glad I stuck to my guns when I bought a boat. If it had Volvo, I passed it by. High costs for parts, I.E. the impeller you are replacing cost about $250. My cost for Cats $43.


Volvo loves there parts way too much. Good luck mystery. You will get there.

For what it's worth, we just replaced our Volvo branded impellers for 80.00 a piece. Not sure where you got quoted 250.00.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

For what it's worth, we just replaced our Volvo branded impellers for 80.00 a piece. Not sure where you got quoted 250.00.

My friend has Volvos and he bought them from the Volvo dealer....

 

[boater3]

Ok made a little progress...

Looks like the o-ring is included in the impeller kit.

Regarding the transmissions, I think part # 3582069 is for the transmission filter and they do take ATF per the 2017 manual.

I still cannot figure out where part # 3581078 goes or if it was just recorded on a prior work order in error...

I think the "fuel in water" sensor is part # 3808616?

Still can't figure out a part # for the coolant (prefer already mixed, not concentrate)...

And for belts I am turning up two part #s 21407028 (v-ribbed belt) and 21405494 (belt) but cannot figure out the difference? What does "v-ribbed" mean?

Thank you!

 

[BandB]

I found an older manual online

Get manuals for every piece of machinery and equipment you have and manuals that match the year you have. Most available online, but if not, get from the manufacturer of the equipment. This is something I'm very rigid about with anything I own. Yours is not an old boat so it shouldn't be hard.

 

[boater3]

Get manuals for every piece of machinery and equipment you have and manuals that match the year you have. Most available online, but if not, get from the manufacturer of the equipment. This is something I'm very rigid about with anything I own. Yours is not an old boat so it shouldn't be hard.

Thanks, I have the manuals on the boat but that is far away so I am trying to prep for a weekend trip to take care of all the maintenance (hence ordering the parts ahead of my trip). I actually found that I can download them on Volvo's website for free! It looked like I had to buy. Looks like my question is answered, the transmissions take ATF according to the latest manual. Would be great to get the shop manuals (i.e. service and maintenance manual) if anyone has and willing to share...

 

[Tom.B]

My friend has Volvos and he bought them from the Volvo dealer....

Apparently... the wrong one. We got ours from a Volvo service dealer in MD.

 

[Tom.B]

**snip** Thank you TF!!!!

Be careful looking at manuals and parts blow-outs for older motors. Many parts (at least many of the Volvo parts I have shopped for) get new numbers, get discontinued, or are only available as a larger part. We needed the heat exchanger chassis, but we ended up having to buy the entire heat exchanger. That is common. As-is, things like o-rings being listed as individual parts, but are included in the kit and very, very minor tweaks in a year-over-year changes to them. Nor should you expect that, even if you get it right, that the boat builder didn't do something unique to the motor config for space or cost reasons. Don't rely on just your online savvy and Google search expertise to land you everything you need. Talk to an expert. Talk to a Volvo service person with years of experience that can order the CORRECT parts for you. Even then there is no guarantee it won't take a few tries to get right.

Good luck

 

[boater3]

Ok figured out the coolant... I need to see if I have yellow (VCS) which is recommended or green. They cannot be mixed. Looks like the service interval is every four years or 800 hours... so I will only check levels... won't buy spare coolant until I get to the boat to check color.

I still cannot figure out where part # 3581078 goes or if it was just recorded on a prior work order in error...

Trying to figure out the difference in the two belt part #s... "v-ribbed"

Volvo is of no help. They say just ask a dealer. Dealers give conflicting information so this has been quite a bit of work to get down to the right part #s. Was much easier for Mercruiser...

Generator is next, wanted to get the volvo parts squared away first.

I will share my spreadsheet of everything once this project is complete. Hopefully it will be of some use to folks!

 

[boater3]

Has anyone run barnacle buster through D4-300s or Onan genset? Can anything be damaged? I heard to remove zincs. What about impellers?

 

[aboatman]

Ok figured out the coolant... I need to see if I have yellow (VCS) which is recommended or green. They cannot be mixed. Looks like the service interval is every four years or 800 hours... so I will only check levels... won't buy spare coolant until I get to the boat to check color.

According to Volvo, the coolants can not only not be mixed but you can't change from one to the other. If the engine was shipped and run with green, it needs green for life. They published a way to change over but later retracted it. Something about hot spots on cylinder walls.

The best I can tell, they no longer sell the green in concentrated form, only pre-mixed.

Many Volvo parts are available from independent sources and there are third party replacements for many items including heat exchangers (Lenco). Enter "Volvo" and your part number in your favorite search engine.