Transmission atf change
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Nomad Willy
Guru
What trans?
Jetstream
Senior Member
Really easy on the ZF80's. I used to suck most of the fluid out through the filter hole with the oil vacuum pump we had. Then once most of it is out that way you can pull the drain plug out and get the last few drops in a container. When your refilling them make sure the dip stick is out and the ATF will go in a lot quicker. Keep the old filters as you can clean and reuse them next time.
I had someone do the last change because the boat was in a remote location and I didn't have time before I went to pick her up and take her home.
I bought the filters and Volvo ATF to do it myself as I am doing most of the maintenance myself. I bought a oil change pump and plan to use it to extract.
@Jetstream I didn't know there was a drain! That will make it easier to get the last bit out as the shop that did the change could not extract it all and did not know there was a drain... so you don't want to refill through the dip stick hole? The big question is how much do you add as I've found the dip stick reading to be less than easy to work with... or I guess if you use the drain plug, you know you got it all out and can add the amount the manufacturer says the unit holds...
As a side note, how often should the transmission fluid be sampled and sent out for analysis? Since mine were basically new, I was doing every 100 hours and was getting some high metal content. Consensus seemed to be that it was normal and both were wearing the same. No one could tell me what normal metal content should be and how often to check. I can just ignore sampling and change every 200 hours I suppose (or sample right before the change). I have my oil analyzed every 50 hours may switch to every 100 hours for the first 200 hours and then every 50 TBD.
I bought the filters and Volvo ATF to do it myself as I am doing most of the maintenance myself. I bought a oil change pump and plan to use it to extract.
@Jetstream I didn't know there was a drain! That will make it easier to get the last bit out as the shop that did the change could not extract it all and did not know there was a drain... so you don't want to refill through the dip stick hole? The big question is how much do you add as I've found the dip stick reading to be less than easy to work with... or I guess if you use the drain plug, you know you got it all out and can add the amount the manufacturer says the unit holds...
As a side note, how often should the transmission fluid be sampled and sent out for analysis? Since mine were basically new, I was doing every 100 hours and was getting some high metal content. Consensus seemed to be that it was normal and both were wearing the same. No one could tell me what normal metal content should be and how often to check. I can just ignore sampling and change every 200 hours I suppose (or sample right before the change). I have my oil analyzed every 50 hours may switch to every 100 hours for the first 200 hours and then every 50 TBD.
Last edited:
C lectric
Guru
Don't know your gear.
Pay attention to how much you get out. Then install just a bit less and observe the dipstick while following the directions for checking. Top up as needed.
Don't just dump it all in as taking a bit out can be a pain on any gear.
Some gears require the engine running in neutral so the entire circuit including any cooler are filled.
If you do not have it you should get any manuals needed for the engine and the gear.
Pay attention to how much you get out. Then install just a bit less and observe the dipstick while following the directions for checking. Top up as needed.
Don't just dump it all in as taking a bit out can be a pain on any gear.
Some gears require the engine running in neutral so the entire circuit including any cooler are filled.
If you do not have it you should get any manuals needed for the engine and the gear.
I added a barbed fitting and valve to my engine lube oil change pump and temporarily stuck a tube on the barbed fitting and sucjed out the trans lube through the fill. Made it easy. Check you manual as some ZF boxes have a filter screen in addition to the filter.
Jetstream
Senior Member
Mystery it's much easier to refill them through the filter housing with the filters out. Sorry I should have said that initially. I usually pore in about 1/2 a liter less than specified then slowly top it up to the dip stick level reading. The drain plug is below the output shaft. I'm like you and like to get it all out but honestly you only get a very small extra amount out from vacuuming it out through the filter hole.
With regards ATF testing I wouldn't bother with more than every 200 hours or 12 months whichever come first. For testing your ATF ZF is very specific about how you do it to get accurate figures. From memory it is a minimum of about 20 hour of running, the sample must be extracted within 15 minute of shutdown of a warm engine/gearbox and the sample should be taken from about mid depth in the fluid. They will also tell you not to rely on a one off reading and to monitor trends in contamination.
With regards ATF testing I wouldn't bother with more than every 200 hours or 12 months whichever come first. For testing your ATF ZF is very specific about how you do it to get accurate figures. From memory it is a minimum of about 20 hour of running, the sample must be extracted within 15 minute of shutdown of a warm engine/gearbox and the sample should be taken from about mid depth in the fluid. They will also tell you not to rely on a one off reading and to monitor trends in contamination.
Xsbank
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Twin Disc recommends oil changes at 1000 hours. Are you sure your transmission needs such frequent changes? I would not even bother with oil sampling until the warranty is out. What happens if the oil sampling shows excess metal? Rebuild. What happens if the transmission fails? Come home on one and rebuild. Meh.
The manual says recommended annually or every 200 hours. If one is in warranty, they should probably follow the manual... the one thing it gives leeway on is oil changes as long as they are tested by a lab...
I think the point of sampling while under warranty would be if a problem is detected and it needs a rebuild one does not want to pay for...
Anode would be in the heat Xchgr not tranny. Tranny mfg usually doesn't supply the HXChgr... the boat mfg will.
Some have anodes others not.
My Mainship w ZF tranny has one anode in the HX.
Some have anodes others not.
My Mainship w ZF tranny has one anode in the HX.
Jetstream
Senior Member
None in the gearbox and bolting it to the engine gives you electrical continuity. It depends what engine you have as to how many anodes. We had Cummins 6BTA 370's and they had the standard 4 in the aftercooler and heat exchanger plus 2 extras in the aftermarket gearbox oil cooler from Seaboard Marine.
SOJOURN4
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ALL -
After procrastinating for a few weeks, I changed the ATF and filter on our ST44 today.
Took less than 1 hour and as noted in previous posts, no big deal.
Used a small JABSCO hand pump and it work perfectly.
Thanks for the help
After procrastinating for a few weeks, I changed the ATF and filter on our ST44 today.
Took less than 1 hour and as noted in previous posts, no big deal.
Used a small JABSCO hand pump and it work perfectly.
Thanks for the help
OldDan1943
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Dont forget to make allowance for the new filters.
After changing oil and filters, run the engine for a few minutes, exercise the transmission fwd and reverse, check the oil levels again. Add oil as necessary.
After changing oil and filters, run the engine for a few minutes, exercise the transmission fwd and reverse, check the oil levels again. Add oil as necessary.
OldDan1943
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Oh baby, dat's the way to do it!!!
I am assuming you gave the engine and trans time for oil to drain back to the sump.
my concern is the angle that the transmissions are at. it can change a bit depending on how much fresh water, fuel, gear, etc you have on-board... i hope the two marks can be relied upon when i do it!
OldDan1943
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You can add the required amount and then check the dip stick.
SOJOURN4
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Mystery -
As OLDDAN said - run the engine (manual states 1500 RPMS for a few minutes) and then check.
I highly doubt that fuel load, makes a significant difference since between "marks" you are only dealing with < 1/2 qt.
Good luck
As OLDDAN said - run the engine (manual states 1500 RPMS for a few minutes) and then check.
I highly doubt that fuel load, makes a significant difference since between "marks" you are only dealing with < 1/2 qt.
Good luck
nhislander
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Going to attempt to change transmission oil/filters on my own for the first time on my Swift Trawler 44. I have read through all of the posts in this thread (very helpful...). However can anyone clarify the correct type and amount of transmission oil to use? Volvo Penta Synthetic Transmission Gear Oil? 4.5 quarts per transmission?
Thanks...
Thanks...
SOJOURN4
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One of the simplest PM's you will do on your boat.
ATF- DEX III/MERC type (for my trans)
Filter -Volvo 3582069 - But in 8 years have only changes it once. Just check to make sure clean and not pitted.
Get a small hand pump to remove ATF and fill - a little bit at a time.
Owners manual has a good sequence on how to change and refill - and look at the manual on how to check fluid level.
Took +/- 15 mins an engine
Good Luck
ATF- DEX III/MERC type (for my trans)
Filter -Volvo 3582069 - But in 8 years have only changes it once. Just check to make sure clean and not pitted.
Get a small hand pump to remove ATF and fill - a little bit at a time.
Owners manual has a good sequence on how to change and refill - and look at the manual on how to check fluid level.
Took +/- 15 mins an engine
Good Luck
gear oil capacity should be in the Volvo manual, it lists various gear model #s, match yours up, and it specificies the oil capacity and quality required. on my st44 i had hs85 gears so 1.5 gallons each, ATF dextron ii or iii.
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