Beneteau Swift Trawler 44

[boater3]

I forget the age of your boat and where it was built. I suspect from the spidering it was a French built boat as I've seen it far more on British and French boats. Sunseeker was notorious for it until the last few years and no way to know if they'll develop the problem. Some owners ignored it, some chased it constantly with gelcoat, and some got frustrated and painted the boat.

The reason I heard given for the issue was the temperature and humidity during the original build. Was understandable excuse in the UK, but still just an excuse.

Never hurts to ask or insist, but I've never known a builder to cover these issues on a boat more than a couple of years old and typically the issues have become significant on a 7 or 8 year old boat.

my boat is 2 years old and change. noticed it before she turned 2. was only really apparent when the boat was hauled out of the water, very hard to see them all from the dock.

 

[BandB]

my boat is 2 years old and change. noticed it before she turned 2. was only really apparent when the boat was hauled out of the water, very hard to see them all from the dock.

I'd suggest you look at the terms of your warranty and contact them regardless.

Was it built in the US then?

 

[SOJOURN4]

See bimini top pics

 

[boater3]

See bimini top pics

Pics still not coming through

 

[boater3]

Bimini Top - See attached. 1" SS tube and fittings. Quick release pins were used

Wiper Blades - Got replacement at local auto store (16-200???) no issues

For reference, I purchased these wipers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009JKI72

 

[SOJOURN4]

Pics attached

 

[rclarke246]

Thanks for the Bimini photos and wiper blade info.

 

[boater3]

Pics attached

Looks nice. I just collapse the bimini frame against the mast, put something in between (i.e. koozie) to protect, and use the clips to secure against. You did it just to keep the bimini frame from resting directly against the mast? Are you able to put the bimini up solo?

 

[boater3]

I am trying to locate a part (see picture attached). It is from the “guide wire” on the bow of my ST44 where it connects from the starboard bow railing to the port at the pulpit. I believe it may be called a “pelican hook”. I found something like it at West Marine but it was much too big and slightly different. I also could not get any sailing hardware to screw-in where the wire would go so trying to figure out thread sizing of the female end. I am going to venture a guess that it was a metric versus us measurement problem.. Looks like Hayn makes but just trying to figure out the sizing: http://www.hayn.com/marine/lifeline/pelican.html

 

[rclarke246]

Here is the pelican hook from one of the guy wires on the mast. Ace hardware board.

 

[rclarke246]

Let me guess, you lost the locking pin and maybe spring? Did this twice! Good news is that neither are metric and can be bought within similar hooks at Ace, at least my Ace.

 

[SOJOURN4]

MYSTERY -

I wanted to be able to collapse the bimini solo and not having to remove the forward mast stays.

so far so good

 

[boater3]

Here is the pelican hook from one of the guy wires on the mast. Ace hardware board.

Thank you! Thought I tried 8MM at West Marine but perhaps the thread was different.

 

[boater3]

I meant to ask in my spider crack post, has anyone noticed a a couple dozen cracks in the bow above the stateroom under the bow cushions on the non-skid? It looks like screws that were slightly too long were used when assembling the boat. They are mostly in pattern form and a mirror image left v. right. Finally, anyone have teak delamination issues? The teak floor in my cockpit and on the swim platform has come unglued in a few spots. Really hoping Beneteau steps up to the plate and takes care of these issues!

 

[MichaelB1969]

I meant to ask in my spider crack post, has anyone noticed a a couple dozen cracks in the bow above the stateroom under the bow cushions on the non-skid? It looks like screws that were slightly too long were used when assembling the boat. They are mostly in pattern form and a mirror image left v. right. Finally, anyone have teak delamination issues? The teak floor in my cockpit and on the swim platform has come unglued in a few spots. Really hoping Beneteau steps up to the plate and takes care of these issues!

Not sure about the cracks. No delamination issues.

 

[rclarke246]

Thank you! Thought I tried 8MM at West Marine but perhaps the thread was different.

I think the pelican hooks on bow and stern life-lines are smaller than the 4 on the mast, but certainly metric.

I’ve got some rubber caulking lifting on swim platform and in cockpit. Not sure what to do about it. Minor, for now.

 

[boater3]

All,

I made a winterization list/thread: http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s60/swift-trawler-winterization-list-41202.html

Hope that is helpful for some folks...

Any idea how the flybridge captain and mate seats can be removed? I don't want to break anything but do want to remove them for winter storage. Attached is a picture of the knobs...

Thanks!

 

[MichaelB1969]

I think you loosen that lower knob then lift the lever on that knob while pulling up on the seat. You should be able to pull the seat, along with the seat stem, up out of the tube.

 

[rclarke246]

Right, the lever backs out the height pin, then simply lift up the seat. My lower wing knob seems frozen but still able to remove seats.

 

[rclarke246]

Top knob is for swivel. Loosen it, too.

 

[boater3]

Thanks. They actually both just wiggled off. It doesnt look like any of the knobs/adjustments are for keeping the seats on the pole. Just height, forwards/backwards, unless I am mistaken. I taped a ziploc bag to the tops of the pols so water cannot enter, accumulate, and freeze.

 

[boater3]

So I am in the process of starting to winterize. For those of you with ST44s that you winterize, how do you handle the freshwater tanks and hose between the tanks and freshwater pump?

Seems I cannot get them drained out enough by simply opening fixtures and running dry. I think that I can get a small sump or pump to drain them through an access hole but I do not know how to winterize the connection between the tank and the pump. Even if I drain and dump antifreeze in, it appears that it is going to require a ton of antifreeze to get it pumping through because of the inaccessible capacity. Then it is going to be a total PITA to cleanse the system of antifreeze due to amount of liquid that will sit in the tank that cannot be easily drained.

Any thoughts?

Thank you!

 

[rclarke246]

No clue on the water lines as I don’t winterize any more.
BTW, since you have your fly seats removed be sure to tighten all screws on the bottom of the seats. Mine were very loose. Also, good time to lube or wax the mechanisms there, too.

 

[SOJOURN4]

Doesn't take much antifreeze.

You could just use air to get all of the water out from the shore H2O connection with low pressure.

Spring time I flush the system & tanks out a few time and use the time to ad some bleech

No big deal

 

[boater3]

Doesn't take much antifreeze.

You could just use air to get all of the water out from the shore H2O connection with low pressure.

Spring time I flush the system & tanks out a few time and use the time to ad some bleech

No big deal

Problem is if I add the antifreeze to the tanks directly, it will take quite a bit of antifreeze because for some reason there is a bit of inaccessible capacity in my water tanks. Kind of like how fuel tanks can't have all fuel capacity available for consumption. If I do add a lot of antifreeze, I will probably never get it all out. I was planning to use air to get the water out from the shore connection and then add antifreeze to the fresh water pump and circulate through all fixtures. I am guessing if I were to add antifreeze to the tanks we are talking 10-20 gallons per tank...

 

[boater3]

No clue on the water lines as I don’t winterize any more.
BTW, since you have your fly seats removed be sure to tighten all screws on the bottom of the seats. Mine were very loose. Also, good time to lube or wax the mechanisms there, too.

Thanks they are all pretty much frozen so will have to work them free in spring.

 

[OldDan1943]

There is something called "red pop". It is used to winterize the FW system and flushed out when the boat is 'in season'. I have never used it.

 

[boater3]

Attached is the connection and a possible way to access the water tank insides.

I am trying to figure out the best approach to remove water if I cannot access the T

Any idea how to open the red thing to get better access to the inside of the water tank?

Its really annoying that Beneteau plumbed the blue hose going at an upward incline...

Thanks!

 

[sunchaser]

Problem is if I add the antifreeze to the tanks directly, it will take quite a bit of antifreeze because for some reason there is a bit of inaccessible capacity in my water tanks.

Bypass the tanks. Connect your water line from tank to pump directly to Bucket or two of RV antifreeze. Bypass water heater too, just drain it. Save your hoses, clamps and adapters for next winter.

 

[boater3]

Bypass the tanks. Connect your water line from tank to pump directly to Bucket or two of RV antifreeze. Bypass water heater too, just drain it. Save your hoses, clamps and adapters for next winter.

Thanks. That is all figured out the problem right now is figuring out what to do with water that can't be drained from the water tanks and the connection between the tanks and the water pump.