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Old 03-08-2015, 10:26 AM   #21
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Just for giggles, check the fuel lines on the engine carefully. There is a filter on the engine after the Racor. The inlet and return can be reversed and the engine would still run. But, it will get starved for fuel after a while. A small engine like that will go for quite a while. I have done this, that's why I know. I did it on a 44 HP Yanmar and couldn't figure out why I couldn't run for more than 20 minutes or so. I actually installed an electric fuel pump, thinking it was the mechanical pump that was tired. Then a mechanic friend of mine was on my boat and was looking at it. In about 30 seconds, he switched the fuel lines top and bottom and all was right with the world. Just a thought. On mine, the intake went to the bottom and the return was on top. To me, I just hooked it up the way I thought it should go. Intake at the top, return at the bottom.
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Old 03-08-2015, 11:22 AM   #22
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Once started the engine will run without stopping. When we moved the boat I let the Yanmar run for an hour. Will confirm fuel line arrangements.
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Old 03-08-2015, 01:32 PM   #23
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Many thank to all for the suggestions. It gives me something to work on over the next week.
If you fly me down there, I'll lend a hand and moral support, Marty! I'm wide open next week!!
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Old 03-08-2015, 03:07 PM   #24
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If nothing else works what about a small in line electric fuel pump or an isolated loop out board motor fuel bulb pump as used in the Seaboard fuel system(see Seaboard site on net)
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Old 03-12-2015, 08:55 PM   #25
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fuel leak detection

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Many thanks. Working on several of the suggestions.
Use baby Powder, rub it on all fitting and watch for the leak, works every time.
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Old 03-16-2015, 07:00 PM   #26
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I have a similar installation on my vessel. An ordinary auto fuel pump (inline) which is keyed on when the ignition is on is the key when I do filter changes. Running it and purging all the air out is key. I have not determined if the pump was installed because of a low performing fuel pump, or the fact that the filters are above the level of the tanks, and they get air bound each time they are changed. Looking at their price (25 bucks) makes me think I should just buy a spare and keep it on hand. Doing fuel line purges with the hand pump is a PITA.
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Old 03-16-2015, 07:05 PM   #27
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I have a similar installation on my vessel. An ordinary auto fuel pump (inline) which is keyed on when the ignition is on is the key when I do filter changes. Running it and purging all the air out is key. I have not determined if the pump was installed because of a low performing fuel pump, or the fact that the filters are above the level of the tanks, and they get air bound each time they are changed. Looking at their price (25 bucks) makes me think I should just buy a spare and keep it on hand. Doing fuel line purges with the hand pump is a PITA.


I plumbed in a low volume fuel pump, run with wireless relay. I use this to prime Racors when I change a filter. Works great.

But as I said before, I think Marty's issue is at the feed valve on the tank.
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