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Old 02-03-2014, 01:48 PM   #21
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Doug:

Elbows look fine. But what does the exhaust turbo look like?

David
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Old 02-03-2014, 02:46 PM   #22
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Hey David,

I'll pull that clamp next time I am down at the boat. You were right, the v-clamps were super easy. Do you think I should pull the water inlet on the mixer and look in there as well?

It is obscene to me that the dry elbow is $730 from yanmar. It is just an elbow, not at all complex. When replacement time rolls around is it possible to replace that dry elbow with something else? I've seen synthetic elbows for under $200, they have the added advantage of no rust, but they obviously wouldn't fit the v clamps and the bracket. Is it possible to engineer a system that doesn't use that dry elbow?

Thanks,
Doug
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Old 02-03-2014, 05:03 PM   #23
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Doug:

Every part on a Yanmar is obscenely expensive. In their defense it is a low volume, specialty casting that requires machining the clamping surfaces, but $730???

But I don't think you will ever replace that dry elbow. It runs hot, so there is never any moisture droplets to condense and corrode it. And it is stainless steel. So it should last a couple of engine lifetimes.

The water inlet to the mixer is very unlikely to be plugged, but why not take a look. I am assuming that on yours it is a separate piece like a pipe elbow threaded in to the mixer. So it might be tough to break it free. If so, don't bother. The one on my Yanmar 6LY was all one casting integral with the mixer.

BTW get some red Permatex (high temp sealant) and put a dab on each side of the gaskets at the v-clamp joint when you reassemble.

David
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Old 02-04-2014, 10:06 AM   #24
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Doug:

But I don't think you will ever replace that dry elbow. It runs hot, so there is never any moisture droplets to condense and corrode it. And it is stainless steel. So it should last a couple of engine lifetimes.

David
I've actually seen them cracked at our boat yard, nothing to do with corrosion, but fatigue (vibration and heat cycles).
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Old 02-04-2014, 10:46 AM   #25
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I've actually seen them cracked at our boat yard, nothing to do with corrosion, but fatigue (vibration and heat cycles).
Chloride Stress Corrosion Cracking is (SCC) the likely mechanism of the previous and maybe the next failure. Unless a duplex or high Mo SS was used.
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Old 08-10-2014, 10:02 AM   #26
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The mixing elbow here in the UK costs a staggering 1,000 !!!

Mine on my 4hla has cracked near the rectangular boss on the side of the casting. I managed to repair it temporarily with epoxy metal but it is leaking again so I picked up a second hand one in very good repair for 200.

When I came to fit it I found that the 4" internal diameter flexible hose between that and the lower exhaust section was perished so now have to find one of those!

It might be of help to know that several companies on both sides of the pond sell one to fit the Mercruiser set ups that also fit the yanmar. Mercruiser reference is #32-443488T

Hope to have mine sorted later this week, meanwhile we await the remnants of your hurricane Bertha!
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Old 12-22-2015, 01:23 PM   #27
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After market exhaust elbow?

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Originally Posted by djmarchand View Post
I don't know that engine specifically, but if it is built like the Yanmar 6LY, the exhaust elbow is cast stainless steel and will last a long time.

It is fairly easy to remove and inspect. It is held together with v-clamp fittings and all it takes is loosening the clamping band. Use a heat gun on the exhaust hose and work a scew driver blade underneath the end to loosen.

Also when you reassemble you can reuse the gasket, just put a dab of red, high temperature Permatex on the gasket surface.

But they aren't cheap. I think the one for my boat is $1000.

David
Would you have any hesitation about getting an after-market exhaust elbow?
Like this: Stainless Steel Exhaust Mixing Elbow for Yanmar 6LY 119574 13501 119574 13500 | eBay
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Old 12-22-2015, 02:42 PM   #28
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I have seen those mixers on eBay and they are indistinguishable from a real Yanmar part. The casting and machining look first class.


So, if you get the same thing as in the picture, I would buy one. EBay protects you from fraud and I suspect that you could get your money back if they didn't look like the picture.


David
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Old 12-22-2015, 04:18 PM   #29
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I just bought 2 for my Yanmar 4JH3's last month. They are very well made, should outlast the originals by a lot. The seller was great to deal with, solving a small issue immediately. I am a completely satisfied customer.

Rafe
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Old 12-22-2015, 08:59 PM   #30
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Some insurers want them pulled and inspected every 5 years. $200 sounds ok, I think my Lehman ones from USA were about $160-180. The hard part is getting the flexible exhaust tubing off and back on, tough wire reinforced stuff.
Heat it with a heat gun and twist, it will come off a lot easier. pushing a butter knife in and around the hose will break the seal on an old one.

Same with putting one on, heat it and twist. slober some dish soap all around the inside of the hose that will grip to the elbow and it will slide on really easy.
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Old 12-22-2015, 09:45 PM   #31
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I've actually seen them cracked at our boat yard, nothing to do with corrosion, but fatigue (vibration and heat cycles).
Yup... just replaced the dry elbow on my starboard motor. Yup, vibration cracked. Yup, stupid expensive. If the mixing elbow needed replacement as well, my mechanic was going to custom fabricate a whole SS assembly.
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Old 04-05-2016, 07:48 PM   #32
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Just a quick update to this old post.

I pulled the elbows again, about 18 months later, they still look pretty good. A little bit of scale inside, hard to say whether it was built up exhaust or a little rust or both, but it scrubbed right out with a wire brush and some purple power. It was all on the mixer end of the dry elbow, the turbo end of the elbow and the turb itself were perfect. The mixer elbows also looked good.

I think I'm going to stick with them one more year and then replace. I found an aftermarket replacement on ebay that looks identical for $399.
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Old 09-10-2016, 09:45 PM   #33
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Another update. I replaced the port side elbows (both dry and mixer) last week, and will do the STB side next week. Both sides had begun to leak a little soot, it was time. I ordered the parts from the guy on E-Bay listed above, they are super nice and fit perfectly. Half the price of the Yanmar elbows and stainless rather than cast iron like the originals.

I did the port side first because it is tougher to get to, and I have not been watching it as closely as the stb side. I was shocked to find that the dry elbow was rusted all the way through, 360 degrees, just below the v-clamp. The mixer elbow was just sitting on top of it. I'm amazed it didn't blow soot all over the ER.

Even with the better deal on the parts it's an expensive job. Hopefully I get a lot of years out of these.
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Old 11-01-2016, 07:42 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougcole View Post
Hey David,

I'll pull that clamp next time I am down at the boat. You were right, the v-clamps were super easy. Do you think I should pull the water inlet on the mixer and look in there as well?

It is obscene to me that the dry elbow is $730 from yanmar. It is just an elbow, not at all complex. When replacement time rolls around is it possible to replace that dry elbow with something else? I've seen synthetic elbows for under $200, they have the added advantage of no rust, but they obviously wouldn't fit the v clamps and the bracket. Is it possible to engineer a system that doesn't use that dry elbow?

Thanks,
Doug

Maybe the dealer has jacked up the price on you. Call the distributor and insist that he tell you what the suggested retail price is.
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