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Old 04-01-2016, 10:56 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Dougcole View Post
Another advantage of pulling the pump is that you can actually see into the impeller chamber and inspect it (and the cam) for wear. I had to have both my pumps rebuilt a few months back, after only 550 hours the base plates were really worn and the seals were in bad shape. Rebuild was about $250.

Do I remember correctly that you had an overheat issue some months back? A belt failure maybe?

Yeah. Had a heating issue. Boiled out the heat exchanger with Barnacle Buster and that cleared it almost all up. Still climbs up a bit at WOT however after a few minutes. Also had a belt failure.

What are you thinking?
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Old 04-02-2016, 06:39 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by cardude01 View Post
Yeah. Had a heating issue. Boiled out the heat exchanger with Barnacle Buster and that cleared it almost all up. Still climbs up a bit at WOT however after a few minutes. Also had a belt failure.

What are you thinking?

Barnacle Buster is great for cleaning the raw water side, but the other problem is scaling on the antifreeze side of the coil. Use Napa diesel cooling system flush for this. Follow directions and all will be fine. Until you do, each season the WOT temp will rise sooner and higher..
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Old 04-03-2016, 02:21 PM   #23
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Dude: I see your problem from the pic you posted earlier in this thread - talk about wallpapering your hallway through the letter box!


As others have suggested, remove the pump the first time around, then you will know what everything looks like if you do it in-situ the next time.

Take some digital pics if your memory is as bad as mine.

Greasing impellers makes assembly much easier, but petroleum-based grease, or the white lithium stuff, will soften them. Pure silicone grease is the stuff to use. A tube like this will last a long time.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054DWS1W

A Jabsco impeller-puller is a good investment. They make two sizes - you would need the smaller one.

Post #11 in the link below describes a little device I made some years ago for compressing impeller vanes prior to installation. It has repaid me many times for the 10 minutes it took to make.
Stuck Impellers
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Old 04-03-2016, 06:03 PM   #24
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PgiTug definitely has the right idea on how to do it, but was missing the limited access part. Super Lube is a silicone grease that is wonderful for things like impellers or heads. Wonderful stuff.

I have tried the zip tie technique, and found that it was a bit more trouble than it was worth. However, I have ready access to the pump. For our OP, it might be a good option.
This one is the silicone grease. Get the wrong grease and neoprene impellers will swell.
http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-920...KWGKE4G1H40HMH
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:07 PM   #25
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Thanks everyone. I'm on it!
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Old 04-04-2016, 10:15 PM   #26
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I have used the threaded impeller puller - works great. A socket/rachet is doable when working blind. I have to work my impellers with one hand, usually with my laying on top of the engine.

The problem I have with removing the pump is that you have to remove the hoses, and still be able to tighten the hose clamps, and pump bolts. How did the tech do it?

Some of my impellers have come with little packets of glycerin which has really helped.
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Old 04-04-2016, 10:33 PM   #27
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This one is the silicone grease. Get the wrong grease and neoprene impellers will swell.
http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-920...KWGKE4G1H40HMH
I could be wrong, but I thought that the original Super Lube is OK for use on neoprene, at least according to the manufacturer. I have been known to be mistaken in the past. However, I have used Super Lube on the impellers on my Yanmar 4JH4 since I have owned it (about 5 impeller changes so far).
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Old 04-07-2016, 12:24 AM   #28
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I could be wrong, but I thought that the original Super Lube is OK for use on neoprene, at least according to the manufacturer. I have been known to be mistaken in the past. However, I have used Super Lube on the impellers on my Yanmar 4JH4 since I have owned it (about 5 impeller changes so far).
My engine manual mentions it regarding neoprene, no petroleum products.
I seem to recall Jabsco saying that too. I have Jabsco pumps, but thinking of switching to Globe impellers.
Nitrile rubber is not a problem.

And I was reading some reviews on Amazon's site where a buyer complained the rubber he used it one was wrecked, and another poster said to only use the silicone version since the other one had petroleum products.

So I just wont take that risk, especially when the other one is certainly not going to be causing a problem for sure.
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Old 04-08-2016, 06:34 PM   #29
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Yanmar 4JH4-HTE impeller change

Update:

Got the impeller changed today. As usual, I was making a bigger deal than it was. I did buy the little $21 Yanmar impeller puller and that made it easy to get out (I went back with a Yanmar impeller that has the threads built into it for the puller). It was actually harder to get the impeller back in due to the stupid location, and the hardest thing of all was finding the bolt holes bling and trying to grab the tiny 8mm bolts with my big clumsy fingers.

The puller came with some glycerine for lube. It said on the package do not use any petroleum based lube.

I would not want to do that out in rough water however. If I spring for the Speedseal kit it would make it easier to get the little cover plate back on I think-- the bolts in the kit have big knurled heads on them I think and the seal stays put in the cover? Is that right?
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Old 04-09-2016, 01:31 AM   #30
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I would not want to do that out in rough water however. If I spring for the Speedseal kit it would make it easier to get the little cover plate back on I think-- the bolts in the kit have big knurled heads on them I think and the seal stays put in the cover? Is that right?
Not sure about the seal staying put on the cover, but the screws would be a lot easier to put in.

Glad it worked out for you.
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