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Old 04-01-2016, 09:56 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Dougcole View Post
Another advantage of pulling the pump is that you can actually see into the impeller chamber and inspect it (and the cam) for wear. I had to have both my pumps rebuilt a few months back, after only 550 hours the base plates were really worn and the seals were in bad shape. Rebuild was about $250.

Do I remember correctly that you had an overheat issue some months back? A belt failure maybe?

Yeah. Had a heating issue. Boiled out the heat exchanger with Barnacle Buster and that cleared it almost all up. Still climbs up a bit at WOT however after a few minutes. Also had a belt failure.

What are you thinking?
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Old 04-02-2016, 05:39 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by cardude01 View Post
Yeah. Had a heating issue. Boiled out the heat exchanger with Barnacle Buster and that cleared it almost all up. Still climbs up a bit at WOT however after a few minutes. Also had a belt failure.

What are you thinking?

Barnacle Buster is great for cleaning the raw water side, but the other problem is scaling on the antifreeze side of the coil. Use Napa diesel cooling system flush for this. Follow directions and all will be fine. Until you do, each season the WOT temp will rise sooner and higher..
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Old 04-03-2016, 01:21 PM   #23
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Dude: I see your problem from the pic you posted earlier in this thread - talk about wallpapering your hallway through the letter box!


As others have suggested, remove the pump the first time around, then you will know what everything looks like if you do it in-situ the next time.

Take some digital pics if your memory is as bad as mine.

Greasing impellers makes assembly much easier, but petroleum-based grease, or the white lithium stuff, will soften them. Pure silicone grease is the stuff to use. A tube like this will last a long time.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054DWS1W

A Jabsco impeller-puller is a good investment. They make two sizes - you would need the smaller one.

Post #11 in the link below describes a little device I made some years ago for compressing impeller vanes prior to installation. It has repaid me many times for the 10 minutes it took to make.
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Old 04-03-2016, 05:03 PM   #24
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PgiTug definitely has the right idea on how to do it, but was missing the limited access part. Super Lube is a silicone grease that is wonderful for things like impellers or heads. Wonderful stuff.

I have tried the zip tie technique, and found that it was a bit more trouble than it was worth. However, I have ready access to the pump. For our OP, it might be a good option.
This one is the silicone grease. Get the wrong grease and neoprene impellers will swell.
http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-920...KWGKE4G1H40HMH
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Old 04-04-2016, 08:07 PM   #25
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Thanks everyone. I'm on it!
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:15 PM   #26
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I have used the threaded impeller puller - works great. A socket/rachet is doable when working blind. I have to work my impellers with one hand, usually with my laying on top of the engine.

The problem I have with removing the pump is that you have to remove the hoses, and still be able to tighten the hose clamps, and pump bolts. How did the tech do it?

Some of my impellers have come with little packets of glycerin which has really helped.
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:33 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by sdowney717 View Post
This one is the silicone grease. Get the wrong grease and neoprene impellers will swell.
http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-920...KWGKE4G1H40HMH
I could be wrong, but I thought that the original Super Lube is OK for use on neoprene, at least according to the manufacturer. I have been known to be mistaken in the past. However, I have used Super Lube on the impellers on my Yanmar 4JH4 since I have owned it (about 5 impeller changes so far).
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Old 04-06-2016, 11:24 PM   #28
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I could be wrong, but I thought that the original Super Lube is OK for use on neoprene, at least according to the manufacturer. I have been known to be mistaken in the past. However, I have used Super Lube on the impellers on my Yanmar 4JH4 since I have owned it (about 5 impeller changes so far).
My engine manual mentions it regarding neoprene, no petroleum products.
I seem to recall Jabsco saying that too. I have Jabsco pumps, but thinking of switching to Globe impellers.
Nitrile rubber is not a problem.

And I was reading some reviews on Amazon's site where a buyer complained the rubber he used it one was wrecked, and another poster said to only use the silicone version since the other one had petroleum products.

So I just wont take that risk, especially when the other one is certainly not going to be causing a problem for sure.
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Old 04-08-2016, 05:34 PM   #29
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Yanmar 4JH4-HTE impeller change

Update:

Got the impeller changed today. As usual, I was making a bigger deal than it was. I did buy the little $21 Yanmar impeller puller and that made it easy to get out (I went back with a Yanmar impeller that has the threads built into it for the puller). It was actually harder to get the impeller back in due to the stupid location, and the hardest thing of all was finding the bolt holes bling and trying to grab the tiny 8mm bolts with my big clumsy fingers.

The puller came with some glycerine for lube. It said on the package do not use any petroleum based lube.

I would not want to do that out in rough water however. If I spring for the Speedseal kit it would make it easier to get the little cover plate back on I think-- the bolts in the kit have big knurled heads on them I think and the seal stays put in the cover? Is that right?
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Old 04-09-2016, 12:31 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by cardude01 View Post
I would not want to do that out in rough water however. If I spring for the Speedseal kit it would make it easier to get the little cover plate back on I think-- the bolts in the kit have big knurled heads on them I think and the seal stays put in the cover? Is that right?
Not sure about the seal staying put on the cover, but the screws would be a lot easier to put in.

Glad it worked out for you.
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Old 04-02-2018, 07:05 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shoalwaters View Post
Dude: I see your problem from the pic you posted earlier in this thread - talk about wallpapering your hallway through the letter box!


As others have suggested, remove the pump the first time around, then you will know what everything looks like if you do it in-situ the next time.

Take some digital pics if your memory is as bad as mine.

Greasing impellers makes assembly much easier, but petroleum-based grease, or the white lithium stuff, will soften them. Pure silicone grease is the stuff to use. A tube like this will last a long time.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054DWS1W

A Jabsco impeller-puller is a good investment. They make two sizes - you would need the smaller one.

Post #11 in the link below describes a little device I made some years ago for compressing impeller vanes prior to installation. It has repaid me many times for the 10 minutes it took to make.
Stuck Impellers
Shoalwaters, I used your idea of a plastic sleeve and 2 hose clamps to make an impeller vane compressor yesterday and it worked very well. I let the impeller soak in a small cup of liquid soap overnight so it was really slippery. Once the engine was started there was a lot of soap bubbles in the exhaust for a few minutes, then all was good. Thanks for sharing that idea.
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Old 04-02-2018, 07:35 AM   #32
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Just another typical boat job that would take five minutes with the engine sitting on a work bench, that ends up taking four hours because of where it actually sits.
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Old 04-02-2018, 09:56 AM   #33
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My starboard engine impeller was almost impossible to change. The mechanic where I bought the boat said they drew straws to see who had to change it and the looser had the job. I bought a Jabsco impeller tool that extracts the impeller and had to make a new handle since the T handle would not turn to pull out the old impeller. The real problem was getting the new one in. Tried tie wraps, hose clamps, etc. no good. Found a thread on impellers on this site. Impellertool.com has a sleeve that you insert the impeller into and then the impeller just slides into the pump. Hold the impeller and pull out the sleeve. Works wonderfully. Best tool I own since I could not possibly change the impeller without it. Now it takes about 20 minutes to change it. I also installed Speedseal covers on both engines. They also are great. No affiliation with either company.
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Old 04-02-2018, 10:04 AM   #34
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Not sure about the seal staying put on the cover, but the screws would be a lot easier to put in.

Glad it worked out for you.

I use Superlube to”glue” the O ring in place when installing the Speedseal cover. It works pretty good.
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Old 04-02-2018, 12:19 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by LarryM View Post
Plus 1 on Speedseal cover. Makes the job much easier.

This is the tool I use on my 4JH3E (rearward facing pump - have to work blind because you can't remove the pump without removing the engine mount!)


Link: IMPELLER PULLER

Just ordered one of these. Though I have access to the Jabsco puller, I don't have enough clearance to use it. The Needle nose style should work good for me on the Volvo. After spending 1.5 hours last week getting the old one out with Pick tools and screwdrivers.I realized in an emergency that was not acceptable. Also ordered some Knurl headed screws from Mcmaster for a do-it-yourself Speedseal set-up...
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Old 04-02-2018, 01:28 PM   #36
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Keep a couple welding mirrors on board. Wrench in one hand and mirror in other. Seems to help better than just feeling for it.
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