Who makes Wally World 15-40 diesel oil?

[Fighterpilot]

Is Wal-marts diesel engine oil acceptable to use in the 3208s or should I pay 1/3 more for name brand oil? Anyone know of a report on that subject? Thanks

 

[psneeld]

Definitely buy the Rotella 15W40 (or bigger name equivalent)...it's worth the peace of mind. And that's not just my opinion...that's from owning*3 diesel boats and a diesel truck that I used to tow a BIG RV with. I did LOTs of research and while the Wally Oil probably meets the specs...the more expensive oil has additives to help retain properties that the cheaper stuff doesn't. If I was running the boat 12 hours a day and changing oil every week or two...I might be temted as the additives become less critical with frequent changes.

Now...the Shell (Rotella) products aren't the only ones out there...Delo was highly recommended by many. Anything the truckers recommend I figure is OK for me as long as Marine engineers agree (which is hard because there are the single weight guys and the multi-guys....I'm still torn myself on that one...but won't be once I add a hydronic heating?engine warming system)


-- Edited by psneeld on Tuesday 1st of November 2011 06:18:10 AM

 

[Doc]

Want to take a chance of screwing up a really good engine for peanuts? Would you put the cheapest oil in that fighter plane you display? Maybe it is not the same concept but...just sayin'

Besides, if it is like* Wally's Oak Creek wine that comes from Chinese grapes, their oil might be recycled from what they skim up on the Yantze.


-- Edited by Doc on Tuesday 1st of November 2011 09:33:10 AM

 

[JAT]

If you are referring to the Lubrigard.... Its OK....but even still, I would either go with Rotella T or the Valvoline Premium Blue that I got from NAPA when they had a really good sale.... @ $9.99 a gallon....bought a coupe of cases....

 

[psneeld]

To answer your questionI dont know. Ive read both Quaker State and some other brand. It makes sense because Wally World will go to the cheapest they can as quickly as they can (rollback prices).

Heres a link to a place that tests oil. They have some tests but I didnt see 15W40 diesel oilmaybe they can help you better. I still think the reason there are cheaper oil and gas brands out there is because they dont have the same additivesotherwise they might all cost the same to be competitive.
http://www.pqiamerica.com/

 

[rwidman]

You can buy the Shell Rotella 15W40 at walmart for $12.00 per gallon. How much can you possibly save on cheaper oil?

I just changed my oil and used three gallons. I suppose I could have saved six dollars by using walmart branded oil over Rotella. I just don't think it's worth it.

As far as who makes it, it doesn't really matter because walmart can have it made to their specifications. Leave out this additive, use less of this, and so on. Shell or Quaker State isn't just putting their oil into walmart bottles.

 

[Larry M]

I had a good internet connection this morning and*Googled, "Walmart diesel oil, who makes it?"** Lots of articles.* Here was the the first one.

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/tdrarticles/tdrarticle56_lubeoilspecs.html

*

 

[psneeld]

Larry M wrote:
I had a good internet connection this morning and*Googled, "Walmart diesel oil, who makes it?"** Lots of articles.* Here was the the first one.

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/tdrarticles/tdrarticle56_lubeoilspecs.html

*

*Interesting....It's along the lines I've heard and Wally world does want to give quality for cheap

 

[Fighterpilot]

I was in "sports academy" yesterday and noted thay had the Shell on sale so bought 8 gal. as a start. Thanks for the advice and did find the test link interesting. The tester seems to like the Shell as well.

 

[rwidman]

Fighterpilot wrote:
I was in "sports academy" yesterday and noted thay had the Shell on sale so bought 8 gal. as a start. Thanks for the advice and did find the test link interesting. The tester seems to like the Shell as well.

I thought he didn't like the regular Shell but liked the synthetic.

Who knows?* Who is an "expert"?* If I've been running standard Shell oil and suspect that the previous owner did as well, and if I have over 3K hours on the engine with no apparent problems caused by oil, should I change to the synthetic for the supposed better fuel economy and lubrication or should I just leave well enough alone?

*

 

[psneeld]

I wouldn't change...and I don't...

There's a lot of reading to show where synthetics in combustion engines are a waste...gearboxes a diff story.

I run Rotella 15W40 in my trucks diesel.* I'm going out now to switch to the Rotella 5W40 syn because it's getting cold.* Engines that use the oil to crack the injectors like my Ford*start like crap when the weather gets cold and the 5W40 really has helped the last 2 winters...even see it in my batteries.

I am finding it curious that the "cheapo" oils have as much additive packages as the biggies...that's something relatively new to my reading and almost makes me rethink why I'm spending more when again...probably everything else under the sun may kill my diesel...probably not the oil if changed regularly.



-- Edited by psneeld on Friday 4th of November 2011 07:32:39 AM


-- Edited by psneeld on Friday 4th of November 2011 07:33:26 AM

 

[Nomad Willy]

Scott,

I agree but see no need for multi-vis lube oil in our boats. All other things being equal, and of course they are'nt, MV oil would be better. Any additive you put in the oil needs to be justified by the loss of the oil it displaces. A gallon of 15-40W has less oil in it than a gallon of 30W. The difference may be small but I'll choose more oil because I believe multi-vis is totally not necessary. We warm our boats up slowly and cool them down slowly. In the case of trucks they need to work hard before being fully warmed up so the VI improvers are well worth the slight loss of oil. And in very cold climates even synthetic oil is justifiable and cost effective.*

I use Chevron Delo 30W for my boat diesel. Ca'nt get anything else here but if I lived in Seattle I would probably use it there too. I use Castrol 20-50W and 10-30W for my road vehicles. I choose Castrol from my experience w motorcycles. I read a lot about technical stuff in those days including lubrication.

 

[Marin]

nomadwilly wrote:
I use Chevron Delo 30W for my boat diesel. Ca'nt get anything else here but if I lived in Seattle I would probably use it there too. I use Castrol 20-50W and 10-30W for my road vehicles.

*We were advised by our diesel shop and friends in the marine engine industry to use Delo 400 30wt in our FL120s and Onan MDJE*generator and that's what we have been using since day one.

Regarding vehicles, I have use Castrol GTX 20-50 in all*my vehicles*since the day I acquired my Land Rover new in 1973.* The only exception is the new Subaru Forester we got for my wife this year.* The manual calls for synthetic 0-20 wt for the non-turbo engine (which is what we have) so that's what we use. The manual says that "regular" oil can be used in an emergency but to switch back to the synthetic as soon as possible.* Regardless of whether Subaru's recommendation is good, bad, or indifferent, there's a warranty involved so we use the manufacturer's*recommended oil and filter.

 

[JAT]

The Wal-Mart oil sold as "Lubriguard"....is made by a company called "Warren Oil"....an American Company.

http://www.warrenoil.com/product_lubriguard.html

 

[FF]

THe big item with oil is to follow Da Book from the guy that built it.

IF they say it needs XXXX , get it.

I have seen DD 2 strokes that should go 15,000 of hard service ruined in short order with muilt viscosity non CFII oil.

And I have yet to see an engine that was killed by too many oil changes.