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Old 05-01-2015, 01:02 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by Wxx3 View Post
Yep, that's my Racor 500 setup. It takes 30 seconds to turn the handle and only two minutes to change the filter, if need be. ...
Moving the lever is instantaneous. But replacing the filter; those round rubber things for assuring a good seal slow me down drastically. Give me at least ten minutes!
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Old 05-01-2015, 06:15 AM   #42
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Folks with screw on filters , on the engine or as a choice for filtration may wish to carry cans of ATF.

Diesel to fill filters is sometimes hard to obtain for filter filling with most boats diesel fuel setups.

The ATF will run the engine just fine with no harm to the fuel system or fuel.

For an offshore boat a gravity setup is best , but hard to re engineer if the boat builder had no idea.
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Old 05-01-2015, 06:54 AM   #43
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I agree that the mfr/dealers know best. I got my info from the local Perkins dealer, Brian at British Marine. On my 4.236, I was advised to use 2 micron on the dual primaries and also on the engine mounted secondary.
I would not equate what a manufacturer says with what their dealer(s) says. From the manufacturer I'd be looking for a written application guide, installation manual, or operators manual.

In my experience you are as likely to get a myth or wives' tale for a dealer as you are a repetition of the manufacturer's guidance.
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Old 05-01-2015, 07:24 AM   #44
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Thanks David, do you have an engine mounted fuel filter also? Mine has a R24T (24 bucks ea) on the engine and 2010's ($7.59) on the remote racor.
I have a 1989 6BT and use NAPA 3358 fuel filters 10 Micron, $13.49. Our Racor is a 900 with 30 Micron and vac gauge. My first filter change was made after 4 years and 600 hours of use. The racor was clean. During that period I ran in rough conditions plently of times to stir up the tanks.
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Old 05-01-2015, 10:36 AM   #45
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If you routinely take on crappy fuel, or you have lots of crud in the bottom of your tanks that can get stirred up, or you have fuel on the boat that's been there for a few years, or you've got a water and bug problem in your tanks, sure, I absolutely agree with the progressive filter theory.

But none of those things apply to our boat. In the 17-1/2 years we've had our boat, I have yet to see any water in the bottom of the Racor bowls (and our tanks drain from their lowest points--- when a tank is empty it is empty), nor have I ever seen any crud buildup in the Racor filter elements when I change them.

While there may be exceptions, the fuel sold in the PNW seems in our experience to be of high quality. This is certainly the case in our harbor, where the single fuel supplier is where the 2,000 recreational boats in our marina along with the USCG fuel up, so they go through their storage tanks very quickly.
My experience on the Chesapeake Bay has been similar. I currently have a Cummins QSC common rail engine. I use a 10 micron Racor primary and a 2 micron on-engine Fleetguard filter. Cummins specifically recommends against filling the on-engine filter. Even the slightest amount of crud or grit can ruin an injector on a common rail engine. I carry a gallon of diesel to prime the Racor and the on-engine filter is self priming.
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Old 05-01-2015, 10:47 AM   #46
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Something an industry friend sent me a couple of years ago.



Micron ratings can be fairly complex. It is imperative to know the efficiency (Beta Ratio) associated with the given micron rating. When a company publishes a micron rating without this information, it does not tell the customer how efficient the filter is at the given particle size. For instance, if Company X rates a filter at 15 micron, they may be referencing a nominal micron rating which could mean the filter is anywhere between 50% and 90% efficient at that particle size. Please see the links below for more information about the micron ratings of filters.

http://www.baldwinfilter.com/literature/english/10%20TSB's/89-5R3.pdf
http://www.baldwinfilter.com/literature/english/10%20TSB's/04-2R1.pdf
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Old 05-01-2015, 11:13 AM   #47
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In addition to Tom's excellent informational links here is one more.

http://pdf.cat.com/cda/files/3375312...EBW4976-04.pdf

The replacement value of the CAT power generation equipment I'm responsible for is higher than the average boat on this forum. As such the CAT factory book IS the bible.
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Old 05-01-2015, 11:17 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by CPseudonym View Post
In addition to Tom's excellent informational links here is one more.

http://pdf.cat.com/cda/files/3375312...EBW4976-04.pdf

The replacement value of the CAT power generation equipment I'm responsible for is higher than the average boat on this forum. As such the CAT factory book IS the bible.

Thanks Craig, great read. When it comes down to industrial dollars, cents and warranties maintaining clean fuel requires a "book" to go by.
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Old 05-02-2015, 12:18 AM   #49
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Fuel filtration can get opinionated. But as a general principal its a good idea to lead with a high capacity filter first in line followed by finer filtration closer to the engine. New common rail engines need tighter filtration as last resort. I and many others use multi stepped filtration in the form of three units. Two before the engine mounted filter which is speced to factory recommendations. Vacuum gauges with captured second needle on the filters is an other good refinement. The first filter is meant to stop water and large particles the second filter say 10 mics meant to further clean things up and the engine mounted 5 mics if CR or 10 mics if older iron to be a safe sure.
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Old 05-02-2015, 11:22 AM   #50
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Probably best to use the OEM recommended by brand, not micron rating, on engine filter. Not all 2u or 5u filters are made the same nor have the same crud removal capability. If not done so, read TomBs post above in this regard.
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Old 05-02-2015, 02:21 PM   #51
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For the record I had a 2 micron filter in my Racor in the past. But since it was the only filter (other than the little one on the engine) I decided I was inviting a plug up w such a fine mesh filter so I went to 10 microns. Still at 10 for the same reasons. Thirty microns would probably be fine but since the only fuel contamination problem I had was w pieces of thread sealant that crippled the fuel pump I don't think 10 micron filtration is too small. So 10 it is for me.
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Old 06-02-2015, 06:30 PM   #52
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I go with a 10 micron primary and 2 micron secondary on the engine. I was using 2 micron on both but read that it's not the best thing for the fuel pump. Also yearly change of filters because the filter paper can start to dissolve and should be changed periodically. Maybe hype from Racor to sell more filters but not worth the risk when it comes to injectors and fuel injection pumps.
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Old 06-02-2015, 06:52 PM   #53
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I put fuel in one tank from the pump and then I manually transfer / polish with a pump and 900 racor with 2 micron to a day tank , 20 or 30 gallons Then 10 micron before engine and 2 micron at engine . This was the original set up from PO . Not sure how good this is but seems to work . The transfer is kind of a PITA and sort of a rig . I just hook my leads from my polish pump to the generator battery .
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