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Old 09-28-2019, 12:45 PM   #21
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I have a video showing what happens when through the start sequence. You can see the rack moving forward initially and the snapping back quickly as the engine cranks. I’m not sure how to attach it from my phone. I’ve tried holding the governor lever open, but the “click” still comes from the rack and it still snaps back. Attachment 94564Attachment 1


No idea whose boat is in that middle picture or why it appears in my post.
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Old 09-30-2019, 07:19 PM   #22
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A new fuel run solenoid arrived today, so I will install it tomorrow and follow up with an update.
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Old 10-01-2019, 10:17 AM   #23
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New Question.

The new solenoid has connectors that plug in to the wiring harness perfectly, however there is something called the “Westerbeke Coil Commander” that also plugs into the wiring harness instead between the harness and the solenoid. I will have to cut and modify the factory connectors on the new solenoid to install it into the wires coming off the “commander”. This seems odd. It is clearly a part of the original install with a metal bracket attached to the engine. It does not show up in any of the schematic I have.

Any idea its purpose and necessity?

Thanks again-
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Old 10-01-2019, 10:30 AM   #24
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That sounds like a coil controller/relay. Normally they time out the pull coil to prevent it from burning out if held on too long continuously. I didn't see one in the schematic, but it could have been a later add or a field add after a problem.

Hold coils are normally not protected, but could be, I suppose. This is the type of Murphy thing I was mentioning earlier.

I'd want to check the problem isnt with the wiring at any of those connectors or that controller/relay before cutting anything.Basically make sure power is getting to the hold coil before replacing it.

Can you send a picture or part number?
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Old 10-01-2019, 10:42 AM   #25
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Hoe many wires does the commander have? How is it wired as best as you can tell?

This is a nice document, not about yours, but with detail about how these things work in general:

-- https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...=1569940685903
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Old 10-01-2019, 10:53 AM   #26
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Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1005.jpg
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ID:	94684

Attachment 1Attachment 1

The numbers on it aren’t too clear, live or in pics. It has three wires in and three out that match the solenoid.
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Old 10-01-2019, 10:54 AM   #27
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No idea why the strange boat keeps replacing any picture I attached more than the first.
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Old 10-01-2019, 10:55 AM   #28
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Old 10-01-2019, 11:00 AM   #29
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Hoe many wires does the commander have? How is it wired as best as you can tell?

This is a nice document, not about yours, but with detail about how these things work in general:

-- https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...=1569940685903


It actually is a Woodward part!
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Old 10-01-2019, 11:09 AM   #30
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It looks like a basic pull coil safety to me.

If you have a part number, we can look for the specs.

If I'm right, it shouldn't affect hold coil.

Disconnect it, hold preheat. Use a meter to check for power between each pin and ground. You should find exactly one. And, it should stay as long as holding preheat.

Then reconnect it. Check wires coming put of it. Do the same test. Should get the same result. Hopefully even with same color wire. That'll show it isnt keeping power from the hold coil. Then you can move on to solenoid.
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Old 10-01-2019, 11:09 AM   #31
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The solenoid installation instructions say to move the rack to the fully off position while installing.

Anyone know if forward or rearward is the “off” position?
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Old 10-01-2019, 11:14 AM   #32
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I would disconnect the glow plugs before holding the preheat switch for any length of time.
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Old 10-01-2019, 11:15 AM   #33
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Should be fully in direction it goes with power off. Can't look at setup now Walking to class and just have phone.
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Old 10-01-2019, 11:19 AM   #34
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Note that you do want to check that it is all the way in that direction, if a weak spring has it less than all the way, it might still work-- but will throw off solenoid position calibration during replacement.
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Old 10-01-2019, 11:25 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gkesden View Post
It looks like a basic pull coil safety to me.

If you have a part number, we can look for the specs.

If I'm right, it shouldn't affect hold coil.

Disconnect it, hold preheat. Use a meter to check for power between each pin and ground. You should find exactly one. And, it should stay as long as holding preheat.

Then reconnect it. Check wires coming put of it. Do the same test. Should get the same result. Hopefully even with same color wire. That'll show it isnt keeping power from the hold coil. Then you can move on to solenoid.


I’m only getting 8.5v through the commander and 12v when I bypass it.

Should I be able to install the solenoid without it and just be certain to limit cranking?
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Old 10-01-2019, 11:31 AM   #36
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As a /very/ brief test...yes. Not more than 1.5s.
In reality....only if you buy those solenoids wholesale.

Some solenoid cut off the pull coil internally after a certain point in the movement and hold oil catches it or not. I like those better. The original may have been one of those not needing the relay. The new one might need it. It is hard to say how things were revised in the field or otherwise.

Is there a generic part number on the solenoid?

If voltage is low, often dirty ir maybe loose contacts are cause. Do they look okay?
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Old 10-01-2019, 11:33 AM   #37
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Keep in mind, in this arrangement, pull coil circuit is not alive entire time cranking. Just long enough to pull for hold to grab it.
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Old 10-01-2019, 11:43 AM   #38
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Quote:
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As a /very/ brief test...yes. Not more than 1.5s.
In reality....only if you buy those solenoids wholesale.

Some solenoid cut off the pull coil internally after a certain point in the movement and hold oil catches it or not. I like those better. The original may have been one of those not needing the relay. The new one might need it. It is hard to say how things were revised in the field or otherwise.

Is there a generic part number on the solenoid?

If voltage is low, often dirty ir maybe loose contacts are cause. Do they look okay?


Using Strike Hold electrical cleaner and a small wire brush gets the voltage up to 10.7.
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Old 10-01-2019, 11:58 AM   #39
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Did you clean controller wiring on both sides and both ends of far end plugs?

It is possible internal relay has some oxidation or cruft on contacts, and not much to be done about that but replace if it gets bad enough.

That seems like a lot of voltage drop, but likely can still drive solenoid.

Teaching for next 3 hrs or so with limited breaks. Replies may be delayed.
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Old 10-01-2019, 12:24 PM   #40
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Quote:
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Did you clean controller wiring on both sides and both ends of far end plugs?

It is possible internal relay has some oxidation or cruft on contacts, and not much to be done about that but replace if it gets bad enough.

That seems like a lot of voltage drop, but likely can still drive solenoid.

Teaching for next 3 hrs or so with limited breaks. Replies may be delayed.


I did clean all the connectors but will give them another good scrubbing. I sent a help request to Westerbeke to get any info and a part number for the Woodard coil commander int he event it needs replacing.

I have a business issue that I need to deal with so will be away from the boat until Thursday morning. Will post updates then.

Thank you for your continued assistance!
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