Volvo Tamd 40b sea waterpump lip seal replacement.

[tiku]

Hi!


I need to change the lip seal on my port engines raw water pump. In theory it is an easy job but I would like to ask if someone here has done the same (my first time)?

The main question I have is that do I need to remove the whole pump or can I change them through the impeller housing? The part that I need to change is numer 9 on the drawing.

If I remove the whole pump I could check the shaft etc, but I really dont want to take the hoses off if I can avoid it. It's nearly the end of the season and I would like to get it fixed now and do a deeper analysis and do pre-emptive maintenance to to other pump as well once the boat is at the hard.

Naturally the seacock is already closed but if take the pump off do I need to plug the pump-to engine hose as well?

 

[obthomas]

I do not know where you got the diagram but I think it is for a different pump than whats on a TAMD40B

I have never replaced the seal from the front on the engine because I keep a spare rebuilt pump.
If the seal was leaking water probably got past the oil seal and the bearings need attention.

I believe you can change the lip seal from the front after removing the wear plate #5 in your drawing. According to my records the raw water seal is metric 25 x 52 x 7. Volvo provides a single lip with no spring. They are hard to find. I use a single lip with a stainless spring. Good luck.

 

[obthomas]

I noted in your blog that you are having a hard time reaching the starboard oil filter. On my boat my starboard engine has a filter adapter that has hoses to a secondary filter mount and thus the filter has been moved to an accessible spot just above the transmission. No mess no fuss.

 

[tiku]

Thanks for the seal information, I'll search with those measurements locally. Volvo charges about 70€ for a new one but so far I have worked out that it is a standard seal which can be bought from any industrial shop, propably a whole lot cheaper. I plan to take the old one with me and visit few places where I know they sell similar seals once I get the old one.

About the oilfilter... I searched high and low for a suitable adapter and even got the quote from Volvo and it exceeded my wildest imaginations. So I decided that blood sweat and tears once a year is not that bad..

 

[ancora]

Looks like the same raw water pump on my TMD40s. I bought the seals on-line for $3.00 apiece. The size is 17 X 28 X 7. The seals must be installed from either end with the open side facing the media. In the event you have a groove worn into the shaft from the seals you can purchase "shaft-savers" and install them rather than purchase a new shaft. Timken, Chicago Rawhide and other manufacturers make them.

 

[obthomas]

Ancora

My TAMD40Bs and a previous TMD40A all had Johnson model F8B-9 pumps with 1 inch (25mm)shafts. Out of extreme curiosity could you tell me the Mfg and model of your pump?

Thanks
O.B. Thomas

 

[tiku]

There are few different pumps used in these engines (three different spare numbers), this I learned while visiting the dealer. It's a matter of if you have the large impeller or the small impeller.


By the way, what is a "shaft'saver"? Googled it but propably didnt find what you meant.

 

[obthomas]

Yea I found the same answer at pumpvendors.com You guys have a replacement pump for the ones I have that have been discontinued.

A shaft saver is a thin stainless flat ring that you install with a tool and tap it onto the shaft over a groove. Afterwards you have a new surface that the seal can use. They are very narrow and you need to get them on the shaft perfectly. They are made by Chicago Rawhide. They work very well and have saved many a shaft and $.

 

[LaBomba]

I have never heard the term shaft saver either, I know them by speedy sleeve and this does come up on google with many industrial suppliers handling them. SKF being one of them.

SKF SPEEDI-SLEEVE - SKF.com/Products

 

[ancora]

Both pumps have "VOLVO" stamped on the cover plates.

 

[tiku]

Today i got the waterpump out, theoretically it might have been possible to take out the seal while pump was still in boat. But it is much easier to do it on the kitchen table.

When I started to pull the pump apart I realized that its internals are not the same as were in the pictures that I posted earlier. The part number matches but thats about it. The original factory repair manual shows the correct parts (I attached a pic of it.) My culprit seems to be the lip seal found in the impeller housing under the wear plate, it had some sand in it and seemed slightly torn.

The shaft had some grooves, nothing major but I plan to rebuild the pumps for both engines during this winter haulout. If one fails, the other will do so also soon enough.

So tomorrow I' off to the shops and get a replacement and do last few cruises before the season stops.

 

[koliver]

The pump has to be taken off and the seal can only be charged on a bench. It is a tight press fit, so removal may be difficult. Check with your parts store, as in my case I was told that the cost of rebuilding the pump was so close to the cost of replacement that I would be silly to rebuild. I still haven't rebuilt my (now spare) dribbler that I took off. The pump output pipe delivers vertically up to the black plastic filter housing. When you remove that item, you break the flow, so nothing further needs to be plugged.

 

[ancora]

The seals must be pressed in from both ends. Trying to press both seals in from one side causes tearing on the outer circumference of the seal being forced through to the other side. When I bought my boat in 1996, both pumps were "weeping." I have kept the same pumps working since then. I cannot see where rebuilding a pump myself is the same cost as buying a new pump.

 

[koliver]

Ancora:

Agreed, but I wasn't going to do it myself the first time. Maybe not the second either.

 

[ancora]

I will do anything I can to avoid paying Volvo's outrageous prices for parts, if they are even available. My two TMD40s are no longer supported by Volvo as that model is no longer in production. Customer loyalty is a trait I find lacking in Volvo. Sometime ago, MTU purchased Detroit Diesel. Here is part of an ad from a magazine: "From preventive maintenance to repairs to repowering, you can count on MTU's worldwide service network for complete Detroit Diesel 2-Cycle service and support."
How unlike Volvo.

 

[tiku]

I have just finished my fix for the pump leak and also posted pics and few words to my blog. The best part is that this is an easy fix and the seal was 25x52x7. Cost me eight euros.

Anyway I will be looking into the "shaft savers" as I decided that I will rebuild both of the pumps this winter, better safe than sorry.

 

[obthomas]

I have a spare pump that I keep rebuilt. It is about a half hour project to replace a leaking pump. I also keep several seals a spare shaft and spare bearings. I use a single lip seal with a stainless garter spring for the seawater seal. I too have gone to searching out generic parts rather than pay the outrageous prices Volvo Penta distributors ask.

 

[smith6]

Volvo TAMD40A raw water pump

These pumps are bronze and have a metal pipe that adapt to them that the rubber hose from the sea strainer connects too. What type of sealant do you use to connect the pipe to the pump?

 

[obthomas]

I use Vaseline. My pipe seals are square o-rings

 

[Lepke]

Pumps aren't hard to rebuild. You need a small press like this one from Harbor Freight for $60. It makes it easy to get the seals and bearings pressed squarely. You need the press on some pumps to remove the pulley or impeller. Rebuilding my Detroit raw water pumps cost about $25 and the coolant pump about $15 as long as the shafts are ok and not counting rubber impellers. The generators a little cheaper. eBay is a good place to look for spare pumps. I carry spare pumps for all the engines, 2 mains, 2 generators. None are particularly hard to rebuild. I've bought a rebuildable pump for as little as $5, so for about $30 and a half hour, I have a like new spare. I'd like to know where I can buy a new or rebuilt pump for $30.
You can use socks to push out the shaft, etc., sometimes pushing into a big socket.

 

[smith6]

Thanks

 

[Weldon]

Found this thread that is close to answering a question for my sitiation. 1983 VP TAMD40A raw Water Pump 838522. I replaced the impeller on the Starboard engine and it leaked from the back of the impeller housing. Wasn't leaking prior. I removed the impeller from the water pump on the Port engine and found a seal behind the impeller. There was no seal behind the impeller on the Starboard side. So, is this seal required? Is this why the St. side is leaking? Why was it not leaking wihtout the seal and previous impeller. Lastly, anyone know what size seal this is? VP wants nearly $50 for this part number.

 

[ancora]

Keep in mind replacing the cams...these are my cams after 2,000 hours. Yeah, I replaced them.

 

[smith6]

The seal should be there. Over time the shaft wears down and then it will constantly drip. If that is the case its a total rebuild kit including the shaft for $400-500 or a new pump $700-800 . Good luck with your project.

 

[ancora]

Shaft savers with application tool, SKF 30 bucks apiece on line.

 

[Weldon]

Thanks ancora, do you have the part number for the Speedi-Sleeve? There are 330 of these on the SFK site.

 

[Weldon]

Perhaps 99813.
DIMENSIONS
SHAFT DIAMETER RANGE
d1
min. 24.943 mm Shaft diameter range
d1
max. 25.044 mm Shaft diameter range
NOMINAL DIMENSIONS
d1
25 mm Nominal bore diameter
D
33.02 mm Nominal outside diameter
Tolerance outside diameter D
± 1.6 mm Tolerance outside diameter D

 

[ancora]

Thanks ancora, do you have the part number for the Speedi-Sleeve? There are 330 of these on the SFK site.

Part Number is 99058.